South Australian Chrysanthemum Society Growers' Calendar November and December

It is interesting to read back over the cultural notes from other authors and identify the common elements as well as the changes that have occurred. There is one factor that is common to all recommendations for November/ December - Do not fertilize in the early stages as your aim must be to get strong, sturdy plants, not tall spindly ones. Your cuttings should be looking healthy and sturdy. Don't be afraid to give them more sunlight to harden them before planting on to the 5" pots. To check that your cuttings in the 3" pots are ready simply remove the plant from the pot. If you can see a good ball of roots with plenty of white tips at the edge of the soil, it is time to plant on. Do not rush this process. Planting on without a good root system can inhibit / check growth. When December arrives and you think it is time to plant on to the final pots (or in the ground) follow the same procedure to ensure that the plant has a good root system. Again, do not rush into the planting on process. You can make the first break in December before planting on if you consider the root system is not developed enough. From my experience it is advisable to have the plant in its final growing location (pot or ground) by mid December. What about the soil / potting mix? You will recall in the September/October notes that colleague Joe Woodings advised that it is better to have your mix ready in plenty of time so that you can check the pH (6 - 6.5). Remember that it is better to have the pH higher rather than lower. In the normal breaking down of the mix or soil PH will be lowered. The use of pesticide can also have the same effect. There are good general commercial mixes available, but make sure that the PH is right and that you add the appropriate rate of fertilizer. I like to add some slow release (e.g. Osmocote) to the potting mix. I believe it helps to balance your feeding program. Feeding your plants can be done with dry liquid or alternate applications of both types of fertilizer. During this growth period feeding must occur at least once each week. Some growers prefer to feed twice weekly with half strength liquid fertilizer (e.g. Thrive, Aqua Sol or similar mix). Later notes will advise you of a change to fertilizer mixes around late January to early February (e.g. Phostrogen). Watering of chrysanthemums is a skill. Even when planting on do not over water them. Watering plants the day before planting on assists greatly. As the weather warms up watch the plants carefully, but keep them on the dry side to encourage roots to move into the new mix in search of water and food. A good sign of the need to water is to watch for the top leaves drooping slightly in the morning. Now to that all important stopping in December. I'll refer to this as the first stop as we usually grow on to second crown buds in Western Australia. Growers usually have their own chart of stopping times for each cultivar. In general terms exhibition blooms are stopped earlier with other classes following. Most cultivars should be stopped by mid December if a natural break has not occurred. Care should be taken with pinching done in the morning and manipulating growing laterals done when it is warmer. Reference to other growers can help those new to the chrysanthemum growing game with stopping dates for the different cultivars. It is also important at this early stage to keep extra laterals in reserve To hold the growing laterals in place staking must be done from the 5" pot stage with stakes placed around the final pots to support the growing laterals. Spraying regularly is vital to keep the nasties under control. A word of warning is necessary with regard to white rust on chrysanthemums. It is present in W.A, and can be controlled effectively. There is some wisdom in varying your sprays during the growing season. I have not made reference to growing in shade or in the open. Pots are useful as they can be turned to promote even growth. In very hot weather some shelter may be an advantage. You certainly need to plan your protection for the blooms later in the season. A good mulch is also beneficial with some growers swearing by the use of cow manure in the mulch mix. Hopefully these random notes will serve to remind you of the need for ongoing care. You should have your plants strong and healthy and ready for the all important second break in January.

CHRYSANTHEMUM GROWERS CALENDAR CULTURAL NOTES FOR NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER by Frank Blackwell as printed in Chrysanthemum News, November/December 2000. Chrysanthemum News is the newsletter of the West Australian Chrysanthemum Society Inc.
It is interesting to read back over the cultural notes from other authors and identify the common elements as well as the changes that have occurred. There is one factor that is common to all recommendations for November/ December - Do not fertilize in the early stages as your aim must be to get strong, sturdy plants, not tall spindly ones. Your cuttings should be looking healthy and sturdy. Don't be afraid to give them more sunlight to harden them before planting on to the 5" pots. To check that your cuttings in the 3" pots are ready simply remove the plant from the pot. If you can see a good ball of roots with plenty of white tips at the edge of the soil, it is time to plant on. Do not rush this process. Planting on without a good root system can inhibit / check growth. When December arrives and you think it is time to plant on to the final pots (or in the ground) follow the same procedure to ensure that the plant has a good root system. Again, do not rush into the planting on process. You can make the first break in December before planting on if you consider the root system is not developed enough. From my experience it is advisable to have the plant in its final growing location (pot or ground) by mid December. What about the soil / potting mix? You will recall in the September/October notes that colleague Joe Woodings advised that it is better to have your mix ready in plenty of time so that you can check the pH (6 - 6.5). Remember that it is better to have the pH higher rather than lower. In the normal breaking down of the mix or soil PH will be lowered. The use of pesticide can also have the same effect. There are good general commercial mixes available, but make sure that the PH is right and that you add the appropriate rate of fertilizer. I like to add some slow release (e.g. Osmocote) to the potting mix. I believe it helps to balance your feeding program. Feeding your plants can be done with dry liquid or alternate applications of both types of fertilizer. During this growth period feeding must occur at least once each week. Some growers prefer to feed twice weekly with half strength liquid fertilizer (e.g. Thrive, Aqua Sol or similar mix). Later notes will advise you of a change to fertilizer mixes around late January to early February (e.g. Phostrogen). Watering of chrysanthemums is a skill. Even when planting on do not over water them. Watering plants the day before planting on assists greatly. As the weather warms up watch the plants carefully, but keep them on the dry side to encourage roots to move into the new mix in search of water and food. A good sign of the need to water is to watch for the top leaves drooping slightly in the morning. Now to that all important stopping in December. I'll refer to this as the first stop as we usually grow on to second crown buds in Western Australia. Growers usually have their own chart of stopping times for each cultivar. In general terms exhibition blooms are stopped earlier with other classes following. Most cultivars should be stopped by mid December if a natural break has not occurred. Care should be taken with pinching done in the morning and manipulating growing laterals done when it is warmer. Reference to other growers can help those new to the chrysanthemum growing game with stopping dates for the different cultivars. It is also important at this early stage to keep extra laterals in reserve To hold the growing laterals in place staking must be done from the 5" pot stage with stakes placed around the final pots to support the growing laterals. Spraying regularly is vital to keep the nasties under control. A word of warning is necessary with regard to white rust on chrysanthemums. It is present in W.A, and can be controlled effectively. There is some wisdom in varying your sprays during the growing season. I have not made reference to growing in shade or in the open. Pots are useful as they can be turned to promote even growth. In very hot weather some shelter may be an advantage. You certainly need to plan your protection for the blooms later in the season. A good mulch is also beneficial with some growers swearing by the use of cow manure in the mulch mix. Hopefully these random notes will serve to remind you of the need for ongoing care. You should have your plants strong and healthy and ready for the all important second break in January.