Recipe for a Lightsaber

Although I believe that each person should design and construct their own lightsaber, I am providing this recipe for those who want to follow the dark side and choose the quick and easy path. **grin** I have no objections to anyone using my ideas on their own custom design, it is always an honor for a student to emulate some portion of his master’s saber.

This is the recipe for a lightsaber very similar to the first one I constructed. It is very simple and doesn’t have any frills. With some ingenuity, some LEDs and a toggle switch can be added. Most of this stuff is readily available and shouldn’t pose any real task at finding. If you can't find something, be creative and try to find a suitable replacement.

Disclaimer!!! I make no guarantee on the availability, nor the accurate description of these components, or on the overall success of the finished product. I STRONGLY advise that you gather up the components, and check that they fit together properly relative to each other, before you buy them!

I am not responsible for any bills, injury, or other costs that you may incur by following these directions. I'm providing this as a useful reference, and as a free public service. The only thing I ask is that if anyone does create a saber using this recipe, they give credit where credit is due. This design, while based on designs used in the Star Wars (tm) movies, is original.

Lightsaber (or "lightsabre") is a trademark of Lucasfilm, Ltd.

General Directions:

Read through the entire directions carefully before starting. This can, and should be fun, but I make no guarantees on how easy to follow my directions are. If you have any questions, feel free to email me (my address is at the bottom of the page) and I'll do what I can to give you any information you might need.

Good luck, and May the Force Be With You!

From the Hardware Store:

1 1 ¼" chrome plated drain pipe extension approximately 10" to 12" in length

1 plastic Eveready flashlight (can usually be picked up for about a $1)

1 doorbell button

1 PVC plug. This will fit into the other end of the drain pipe

1 Can of Great Stuff

1 female-female cable coupler (used to put to cables together)

1 tube of superglue

1 cabinet or shutter latch kit

1 1" D-ring

5-10 Washers that are slightly smaller than your drain pipe

From Radio Shack (or other electronics supply store)

1 Old broken PC card

From the Auto Parts store (or Wal-Mart)

1 set of windshield wiper blades cut into 6 or 8 3 ¾" to 4" strips

Tools:

X-acto Knife

Drill (a Dremel or Black & Deckard Wizard would be REALLY handy)

Screwdrivers

Hot Glue gun

Tap set (to thread the holes you will drill in the pipe)

Pipe cutter (that is big enough to fit around your tube)

Multipurpose file that is approximately ¾" in width with flat bottom and rounded top

Note: A conversion kit for the Graflex 3-cell flashgun can be obtained from http://members.aol.com/yodashouse/ This kit includes the 6 wiper blades with adhesive backing, a belt clip and the bubble display or card edge. The kit can be purchased for $30.

1. Cut your pipe so that it is approximately 10"-12" in length (your choice, I recommend about 11".) Be sure to file down the rough edge afterwards, you don’t want to cut yourself on it.
2. Spray-paint the PVC plug black or silver or whatever color you choose. Give it several coats, you don’t want it to rub off. Give it plenty of time to dry between coats, and at least 24 hours for the final coat.
3. When the paint has completely dried on the plug, use a hot glue gun to put glue all the way around the plug…put lots, because this is what is going to keep the plug in the pipe. When you think you have enough on it, jam it up into the pipe. It should slide all the way in and leave a small lip over the bottom. Don’t worry if some of the hot glue oozes out, you can cut it off after it dries…no big deal.
4. Take apart the flashlight, and remove the reflector lens. Take the light bulb out as well…you won’t need it. Take the coaxial cable connector and put it where the light bulb was, it should fit near perfectly. Take your hot glue gun and put glue onto the back of the lens so that it doesn’t show from the front. This is your emitter and conducting plate. Let the glue dry.
5. Carefully, using a Dremel tool, cut the edge off of an old computer card (you can also use a bubble display from an old calculator). Be sure to cut enough length so that it will completely cover the top of the switchbox. This will be your activation plate.
6. Take the doorbell and use a file or Dremel to round the bottom surface so that it fits snuggly against the side of the pipe. This will be the switchbox.
7. Place the switchbox on the pipe where you plan to have it. I would suggest putting it above the grip area. While holding it in this position, carefully drill holes into the pipe that match the screw holes on the doorbell (Be sure your drill bit is the same size as your screws). When this is done, use a tap set to give the holes in the pipe thread, otherwise you will never get the screws into these holes.
8. Now, spray some of the Great Stuff into the bottom of your pipe, down around the PVC plug. Be sure to only spray about an inch worth in. Wait several minutes for the Great Stuff to dry, then drop one of the washers down on top of it. Then spray another inch of Great Stuff. Continue this process until you are within 1 ½ or 2 inches from the top of your saber (Make sure that none of the washers block your screw holes for your switchbox. Don’t worry if some of the Great Stuff oozes out of the holes, you can clean it all off after it dries.)….you don’t want to have to much Great Stuff in the way of your emitter lens.
9. Screw the switchbox onto the pipe. Then take your activation plate from above and glue it to the top of the switchbox.
10. Place your emitter lens into the large open end of your pipe. The piece of the drain that screws on should fit neatly over the top of the lens so that you can screw it down securely.
11. Take your windshield wiper blades and remove any plastic or metal parts from them. This should leave you with plenty of rubber to make your grips with. There is a front and back to the wiper blade, one side is the part that goes against the window, the other is the back of the blade. You want to cut the blade in half along the long axis, separating the front from the back. Make sure the two pieces have a flat edge that you can glue to the pipe. Now choose whether you want your grip to be made from the front or back of the wiper blade. I usually use the back. Once you have this, cut your blades into 6-8 (I use 8) strips. These strips should all be the same length, roughly 3 ¾ of and inch to 4 inches. Or you might choose to make them longer. Use superglue to glue these strips at equidistant points around the base of the saber. Be sure to let the glue dry on one grip piece before doing another.
12. Take the 2 U-shaped latches from the latch kit, place the d-ring into the u-part and bend the latches so that both screw holes are together. Place this on the bottom of your saber and used the screws that came with the latch kit to screw them down into place. That’s it!
13. Enjoy your creation. Dance around the room waving your saber around making lightsaber noises! Be careful, the wiper blades will tend to come off with a lot of handling, so be gentle. If they come off, just superglue them back on.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me at: master_joren@yahoo.com Please read the FAQ page before emailing me.

Kal Joren, Jedi Master