SHAMBHALA POTTERY

TEST TILES

GROUP 2

**** You can get a much better view of these tiles if you copy and paste the picture into a program like Paint Shop Pro and enlarge it. The colors are pretty true to form in this picture but can be best seen in a blown up version.

 6.3 Talc

Add: Red Iron 11%, Bentonite 2%

Top row, 2nd tile from left is #1013 Graeme's shino  which is one of my standard Shino recipes that I've been using since the early 80's.  It is a regular C10 R recipe which works well in the soda/salt firings.. It is also on Santiam body, which fires very dark in this soda/salt kiln.  The right side of the tile has porcelain slip, showing the vast difference in color from the unslipped side. In a gas firing this shino recipe goes from a nice light peach, to a deep, rich red orange, depending on the clay body and the amount of reduction. It would be much on a body with less iron.

39.3 Nepheline Syenite

 4.8 EPK

Top row, 3rd tile from left is #4052 Flashing slip on BB clay from Georgie's in Portland.

80 EPK

20 Nepheline Syenite

Top row, far right tile is #5899 slip  on GMix, a white stoneware.

50 Grolleg Kaolin

50 Kentucky OM#4 Ball Clay

Second row from top, far left tile is # 5888 Craig Martell color B on my #9 clay body test. The front of the tile is a rutile blue, and the back is plain, dull brown.

35 Silica

20 EPK

Color B Add: 8% Rutile, 2% Chrome oxide. 

Second row from top, 2nd tile from left is #3108 Oatmeal. This is a recipe that I have used in regular C10 R firings.

49 Custer Feldspar

 2 Yellow Ochre

Second row from top, 3rd tile from left is also #3108, but on Windsor porcelain.

Second row from top, far right tile is # 5862 Vivika's Orange on Windsor Porcelain.  This is another C10 R glaze that is used in regular C10 R firings. This glaze works better, I think, on a light body.

56 Kona F4 Sodaspar

 4 Red Iron oxide.

Add: Red Iron oxie 2%, Rutile 4%

Third row from top, far left tile is #6032 Brown with red  on BB body. This broke nicely on the tile showing areas of red on the medium brown.

36 Kentucky OM#4 Ball Clay

Third row from top, 2nd tile from left is #2299 Color C  on GMix 

50 Grolleg

25 Silica

C color Add: 0.825 Cobalt Carbonate

Third row from the top, 3rd tile from left is #3397 on Rod's Body. This is a brownish black on this body.

****Please note that due to the high copper content this would not be a safe glaze for functional ware. You might want to try it with about 4% Copper oxide along with the 1% Red Iron as a variation.

50 Custer Feldspar

20 Silica

Add: Copper Carbonate 8%, Red Iron oxide 1%

Third row from top, far right tile is #6032 (see recipe above), on Long Beach White. Notice the vast color difference in these two tests.

Bottom row far left tile is #2501 Kaki. This is a regular C10 R beautiful Kaki glaze, which turns into a Temmoku on this body, in the soda/salt firing. 

55.90 Cornwall Stone

 9.23 Silica

Add: 6% Red Iron Oxide

Bottom row 2nd tile from the left is #6045 Kaki slip on my #19 clay body test. This is a beautiful  reddish brown, buttery Kaki glaze.  In a regular firing you can try using this recipe as a trailing glaze over a lighter glaze; but I would try this only on a pot that you are raw glazing. Because of the high clay content, it would probably crawl if you used it on bisque.

50 Redart clay

50 Nepheline Syenite

Bottom row 3rd tile from left is #6045 (same glaze as above) on Windsor porcelain. It's just as beautiful on the porcelain as it is on the stoneware.

Bottom row far right tile is #2333 June Perry Matt Kaki on my #2 clay test.  In soda/salt this looks like a plum temmoku. I designed this as a regular C10 R glaze but it works well in soda/salt as well.

 50 Custer Feldspar

11.5 Red Iron Oxide

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