Daimler Product Innovations' Mercedes 450SLC and SL page

Site hosted by Angelfire.com: Build your free website today!

Daimler Product Innovations' Mercedes 450SLC and SL (W107) page

Well, I sold my Benz... but I will keep this site up.

Note: Due to the very limited interest in these products and services, I have decided to discontinue to offer them. I'll post part numbers, sketches, etc. for general distribution.

This is where the performance minded SL(C) owner can have piece of mind that others ARE out there who would like to put the Sport back into their "Sport Leicht", and do it at reasonable budget too. We would like to promote the ownership and restoration and especially modification of these cars. Yes, we said modification! As good as these cars are, there are always impromevents to be made. And we are not talking leather covered cup holders either.

We have even designed a 6-speed manual gearbox conversion for the 107's. While it has not been road tested we are confident of the results. We have used CAD programs to design and analyze the components, most of the components are right off-the-shelf. However, as the cost become high, and interest low, we've decided to not pursue this, but will offer original literature if one desires.

We'll publish pictures, products, and ideas pertaining specifically to the 107 chassis. Tech tips, sources/links and just other interesting things will be shown/posted here. We invite all to contribute their ideas, which we will quote on this page for all to see. FEEL FREE to drop us some mail on anything you see on this page, as well as suggestions/questions of your own.

Ideas to consider:

EXPRESS WINDOW MODULE - (Contact me for part info.) - This will make the JOB of lowering your slow window, a flick of the switch, you know... like on newer cars. No need to push on the center console 'till your finger is numb. You can install it to roll DOWN or roll UP your windows at the flick of the switch. You can also install it to close your sunroof as well! Pick up a One Touch Power Down Module from Ford (say like for a 90's Mustang) Simple wiring to install. I'll post the schematic for the Ford installation.

Replacement glass for rear view mirrors (blue tinted) - this has been becoming a little more difficult than we expected, but won't give up.

UPPER BALL JOINT - (Got the pictures finally!) - Replacement without buying the whole upper A-arm, at a fraction of the cost!

This is the installation of the new ball joint using high strength bolts, vs. steel rivets. Requires drilling out the steel rivets and installing the ball joint with bolts. Since this ball joint is loaded in shear only, this method is more than adequate when using Grade 8 bolts. The ball joint is a TRW part, no. 10497. The part can be ordered from most parts shops. Use Grade 8 8mm bolts just long enough for the joint, a-arm, lock or flat washer and a self locking nut. Torque the nuts without stripping them. The tough part is getting the rivets out. You can grind or drill the heads off on the ball joint (underside) side, then drive them out with a sturdy punch and hammer. You do not have to remove the spring, as it engages the lower a-arm only. Just remove the upper ball joint from the spindle (with ball joint puller or a "pickle fork"), remove the bolts holding the upper a-arm. The shock will support the spring/a-arm. DISCLAIMER: WORK ON SUSPENSION COMPONENTS WITH GREAT CARE! Always support the car properly! You just saved yourself about $80 per side!

EXHAUST MOD. - If you're thinking of "upgrading" or replacing your exhaust and keeping SMOG legal, you can do it with some minor mods.! Two critical components are the catalytic converter and the muffler. There is a SMOG legal aftermarket 2"-in/2"-out converter. The muffler is something more complicated... You'll need a 2 in-2 out muffler of similar volume (cu.in). The pipe will have to be 2" i.d. Now, this increase will NOT noticably decrease the low end torque but will open the top end horsepower. A muffler shop can do the mods. for about $200 plus parts. Make sure they install a croos-over pipe of the same size (2") where the current one is.

Here is an example of a muffler that may work for you. However, if the muffler is longer than the stock one, you'll have to place the new muffler right after the cat. under the car instead of the original location. I'd have no problem with this, as this would leave a clean look under the trunk.

WHEEL/TIRE MOD. - The stock 205/70-14 wheels are nice but are less then "performance" oriented. Find the later model 16" rims and install a set of 225/50-R16 tires. This is not unheard of as AMG installed a similar setup on their cars. You'll loose some of the cush ride, but will gain better handling!

You can also try a 225/55-16 setup. This will be closer to the original size so your speedo (in your dash, not in your pants) will be more accurate. These "higher" profile tires are also a little less expensive. Check here: Personally, I'd go with the Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP. VERY grippi and ultra quiet, but don't expect more than 40,000 miles from them.

Now, we know that some of these ideas are radical by Mercedes standards (at least for these cars) but we think that they are worth checking into. Even with these fine cars, there is still just a little to improve on many things.

We're always under construction to improve!

Did you know that out of over 223 thousand 107 chassis built, only about 25% of them were the SLC's? Still, the convertibles have kept their value much better. Also, the SLC's were about $4-$6K more expensive new!

You can increase the response and improve brake feel by installing kevlar or teflon brake lines. You will actually improve the stopping distances! You can find them for about $75 per set.

Did you know that in the CIS injection system, the largest and most obvious air flow restriction is the air flow meter? But did you also know that the throttle body can be opened up from a stock 65mm to 70mm? This is a 16.5% increase in flow area! i.e. an approximate 16% increase in flow! This flow translates to about 8-10% in power increase in the upper RPM ranges. Have a reputable speed shop do the work for you. You'll have to match the lower manifold throttle mounting for the same size (with a Dremel tool). Another thing is the bar across the air flow sensor plate. It is only there to prevent damage if the engine back fires; some of the combustion gases make it back into the intake manifold (as opposed to after fire) to prevent blowing the sensor plate up and out and serves no other purpose. I have NEVER experienced this. Removing this bar may get you a little cheap power as well. Little things DO add up.

This is the top of my engine, filter removed.

Did you also know that your 8-blade aluminum fan consumes about 3-5Hp (due to rotating inertia and air pumping) at cruising speed (about 3100RPM)? That is power that doesn't get back to your wheels! Try considering a 16" electric fan, and operate it using a thermostat and a relay. The engine will run less loud and save a couple of horses in the process.

Did you know that the early SL's were equipped with a heavier rear sway bar? Then they reduced the size to induce more understeer, which is considered a safety feature for the benefit of the average driver. This is at the cost of a flatter handling, more neutral cornering SL. We think they should have stuck with the initial setup, especially for such a heavy cars as the SL's.

In the mean time, a bit of info. on calculating 0-60 times for a given vehicle with manual transmission, and it is accurate to within 5% of actual times. Time = (2xW/Tq)^.6 where W=weight of vehicle, Tq is the actual maximum engine torque. This works great!

Does your antenna not retract fully? Will it retract when you put slight pressure on the mast? Clean the mast with a DRY cloth to remove road grime. If you are mechanically inclined and don't want to spend money on a new antenna assembly, remove the assembly from the vehicle, remove the cover, and clean the clutch mechanism with a greaseless cleaner like break cleaner to remove the oily film from the brass disc ONLY. Run the antenna through its cycle a few times as you are cleaning the clutch. This removes the material that causes the clutch to prematurely slip before the mast is fully retracted. If you need to, you can disassemble the clutch entirely and clean it. If the mast is straight and smooth this procedure should help, unless there is a more complex problem with the motor/drive. Good luck!