The History of Brockway, California
If you can picture Lake Tahoe as the shape of a heart, Stateline Point is the indentation at the top, at the northernmost edge of the lake, bisected by the California/Nevada state line. Its history is a microcosm of the history of Lake Tahoe itself.
Brockway is an unincorporated community of about 150 people that occupies the California side of Stateline Point, between Highway 28 and Lake Tahoe. It is an enclave of homes on narrow winding lanes ranging from elaborate lakeside estates to two-room cabins, set among soaring pines and massive granite boulders, with a pink-sand community beach, offshore rocky islands and a perfect southwestern exposure.
Prehistory
Lake Tahoe was formed as a deep rift valley in the geological uplift of the Sierra in ancient times. The area around Stateline point was the outlet of the rift valley. The volcanic eruptions of Mount Pluto (the principal mountain of Northstar at Tahoe ski resort) closed the valley's outlet and ultimately built up into Brockway Summit. The volcanic cone on Stateline Point that is the home of the forest service lookout was part of that volcanic system. With its outlet closed, the deep lake formed in the valley from snowfall runoff, eventually rising to find a new outlent through the Truckee river canyon at Tahoe City.
During the ice age, the mountains of the Sierra were carved,smoothed and eroded. As the ice receded, immense, smoothed granite boulders ("talus") were deposited throughout Stateline point; one of its most dramatic features.
The Arrival of Humans
No one knows when humans first saw Lake Tahoe or for how long they have come there. Ancestors of the Washoe Indians apparently began coming to Brockway's unique hot springs at the edge of the "Lake of the Sky" in prehistoric times to soak in the soothing waters, and that continued as a tradition into the time of white men. Very little is known of that time, though worn "grinding holes" still can be seen in the boulders at the lake's edge; many several feet beneath the lake's present surface. A historical display of the Washoe Indians' culture can be viewed in the Indian Room at the Cal-Neva Lodge.
Lake Tahoe was "discovered" by European American explorer John Fremont and guide Kit Carson on February 14, 1844 while seeking a path across the Sierra. He referred to it only as "Alpine Lake" in his journals and maps. The mountain country and high passes were treacherous for early settlers and gold prospectors following the gold discovery in 1849, and the infamous Donner Party spent its disastrous winter near Truckee by Donner Lake, only twelve miles from Lake Tahoe.
How Lake Tahoe got its name
In 1852, six years after its discovery, and three years after the gold rush brought thousands of prospectors to the new state, the lake officially was named "Lake Bigler," for California's first governor, John Bigler, following his rescue of emigrants marooned in the snow near the lake. Unfortunately, Bigler became a Southern sympathizer during the Civil War, and attaching his name to Lake Tahoe became extremely controversial.
"Tahoe" first was proposed as an alternate name in 1862, drawn loosely from unspecified "Indian words" for "big lake" and "high water," (also characterized as "much water" and "blue"). There is no authentication of the claim that the name was used by the local native Americans. A great debate followed for decades, pitting those who despised the local indigenous peoples against those who despised Bigler. Mark Twain was a leader of the fight against the name Tahoe, but it gradually gained popular acceptance (always pronounced "Tay-ho.") The name finally was changed officially by the California Assembly to Lake Tahoe in 1945.
The Development of Brockway Hot Springs
In 1869, in anticipation of the completion of the trans-continental railroad through Truckee, William "Billy" Campbell (a local stage line owner) and George Schaffer (the local sawmill owner, for whom Schaffer's Mill restaurant at Northstar is named) built a road from the Truckee rail stop, up Martis Creek and over Brockway summit (then unnamed) to the North shore of "Bigler Lake," ending at the hot springs on its shore.
Campbell took title to 63 acres at the hot springs and erected a 20 foot-square bathing house over them (to the left of the present-day tennis courts). The new resort was called "Campbell's Hot Springs." A pier was constructed. At that time, the hot springs property was believed to be located in Nevada because the state line was established 1/2 mile to the west of its present location. A local story places the "monument stone" marking the mistaken state line downhill from the house and to the right about 50 yards. In truth, the mistaken line was about a 1/4 mile farther west, near the entrance to Brockway Springs.
During the construction of the resort, five men who were returning home by sailboat from constructing the resort's breakwater were lost in heavy waves off Chinquapin (Observatory Point); their bodies never found. It was the worst marine disaster ever on Lake Tahoe.
The next year, in 1870, Henry Burke, who operated Tallac resort at the South end of the lake, became Campbell's partner in the resort. Together, they constructed a "commodious 40 x 60 foot hotel" with a wide verandah facing the lake, plus five two-room cottages for those who wanted to stay through the season. The hotel was constructed on the site of the present-day tennis courts. The transcontinental railroad was completed that year, and the resort owners anticipated great tourist business from the new railway. Unfortunately, the road to Truckee was still impassible by Campbell's stage coaches due to snow drifts into June.
In 1871, Burke took over operating the stage coach line from Truckee over the pass to the hot springs (a two and a half hour journey), where it met his steamer "Truckee" to transport persons to Glenbrook, to connect with another stage to Virginia City and Carson City. The Truckee was joined by the sidewheel steamer "Stanford" in 1873.
In 1874, Commander Von Schmidtt's survey of the California/Nevada state line from Oregon south was completed (paid for by the State of California), which placed the state line at its present location, a half-mile east of the then-existing boundary.(1) That placed Brockway in California. A major disupte erupted between the states that was not resolved for a decade.
1. Von Schmidt was hardly a neutral on the issue, He was a Tahoe local and great promoter of the area; at one time proposing digging a railroad tunnel through the crest of the Sierra from the Lake as a shortcut to Donner Summit. He also gave Observatory Point (Chinquapin) its name when he proposed it as the site for the U.S. Naval Observatory. Anyone who has enjoyed a clear Tahoe night can understand why.