Why on earth would anyone want to ride a fixed gear bicycle on the road ? |
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If you've never done it, that needs a long answer! |
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Riding with a fixed gear is a different experience compared to a multi-speed freewheel bike, and I'll try to describe some of the enjoyment that I get from doing it. The contrast is almost like a different sport. Riding a fixed gear bike is just fun! In a way, it's like learning to ride a bike all over again and experiencing the subtle joys of discovering an efficient way to get from here to there with a lot less energy than walking or running. The simplicity of a fixed gear bike adds to the aesthetics of the machine and enhances our awareness of what a magnificent invention this really is. It is distinct surprise to realize that you don't always need a gazillion gears to ride a bike! A fixed gear continually reminds you what you are doing, and keeps you involved with the bike and the road. Climbing and descending your favorite hills becomes a new challenge, and the fixed gear adds a new dimension to your familiar terrain. And with a lightweight bike that is designed for the task, you will rediscover cycling. Beyond the basic pleasures of using of a fixed gear, numerous articles by respected coaches and professional cyclists recommend the benefits of using a fixed gear not only for enhanced training and efficient use of your training time, but also for the added variety to a rigorous road training regimen. |
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Here's a few quotes from the www.cycling.world: |
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Increase your pedaling
efficiency with higher cadence |
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Fixed Gear Training “ Riding a fixed
gear is another great way to improve your pedal stroke and cadence. The bike
will force you to keep a constantly smooth, even pedal stroke at all
cadences. Use a light gear that will allow you to spin a high cadence (90+
rpm) without too much effort. Don’t be fooled into thinking you
don’t need to concentrate on the stroke because the gear is fixed. Be
sure to work on the entire circle, concentrating especially on the top and
bottom of the stroke. If your legs relax too much on the upstroke, letting the
wheel push them around, you will not be achieving the full benefit of the
workout. On the flats, pedal with a cadence greater than 90 rpm
while you maintain low heart rates (zones 1-2). Concentrate on applying power
all the way around the pedal stroke. While riding a rolling course, work on
being comfortable with a very high cadence on the downhills and keep your
heart rate in check on the climbs. Optimum pedaling cadence is different for every rider.
However, everyone will benefit from high-cadence drills and isolated leg
training. Spend some time on these drills during your preparation and base
periods and you will be rewarded with increased efficiency and, possibly,
slightly higher power outputs all season long.” |
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In the Olden Days, before Spinning and workout videos, European professional cyclists used to train in the winter using a fixed gear bike, and only switch to their derrailleur-geared mounts in the spring. The fixed gear is a machine pretty similar to those used for track racing - a single-speed bike with no freewheel, and just a single, front, brake. Because there's no freewheel, as long as you're moving you have to pedal-no coasting downhill-and no back brake. (Use your feet to brake at the back-in fact, if you pedal backwards, the bike will go backwards!) So why do such a bizarre thing anyway? There are good reasons, not least that you can get outside rather than stay stuck indoors sweating over a hot turbo. In the winter of 1998-1999 I experimented with the old-fashioned winter training described above, and didn't ride a bike with gears at all between early December and the end of March. To my surprise and delight, I found that once I finally dusted off the Trek and took her for her first spin since the previous season's final race, I was the fittest and fastest on the bike I had ever been in my life, at least at that time of the year. So how does it work? First, pick a gear. For most people, something between 60-something and 70-something inches is probably about right*. Mine is set up with a 72 inch gear. This means that a comfortable spin of 90-100 revs/minute gives me a speed of 18-20 mph on the road, and provides a good, basal level one-type training level, ideal for pre-season preparation. However, when climbing a hill there is no option-you have to get up and hammer. This is like a built-in interval training session, and definitely makes you stronger as you can't give in to the temptation to downshift on the climb. It's amazing how often one would have eased up just a cog or two if the choice had been there. (A nice side-effect of this though, is that one can climb nearly all hills faster than usual, being in a higher gear.) On the other hand, going down the other side of the hill now means that one must pedal very fast indeed, since the bike is directly-driven. This has the twin good effects of keeping the legs supple, and also develops a very efficient, fluid pedalling style as you want to avoid shaking the bike by bobbing up and down when spinning at 150+rpm on a 30 mph downhill. Thus not being able to coast is actually a good thing. Finally, without getting too Zen about it, riding a fix is a very different experience in a hard-to-describe way. With no interface like a freewheel between rider and road, one feels a very direct sense of the road and the momentum of the machine that is hard to describe, but once you give it a go you'll know what I mean. It's fun, in a way that is totally unexpected for such a basic, single speed bike. Man (or woman) and machine really are in perfect harmony. So give it a go: a couple of brisk, gently undulating 1-2 hour rides a week on a fix in the winter or early spring will put a smile on your face and put you in great shape for the start of the season-guaranteed! *To calculate the gear in inches, divide the number of teeth on the chainring by the number of teeth on the rear sprocket, and multiply the result by the diameter of your wheel in inches. So for me: 52 front / 19 back = 2.7 x 26.25 = 72 inch. |
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Fixed gear is great for most riders in the late fall
and winter... Gears for fixed riding should be in the area of 63 to 75
inches depending on terrain. You should try to maintain 110-125 rpm's on your
rides. Fixed gear rides will generally be 60-70% of distance of your normal
roads rides. Try to ride fixed at least twice a week Nov. through Jan. Riding
in a small group where |
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At this year's international bike show, manufacturers
introduced new bikes made of ultralight aerospace materials like titanium,
aluminum and other metals. Many come equipped with front-suspension forks,
rear suspension, hydraulic disc brakes and 27 gears. These high-end
road and mountain rigs with all the bells and whistles can cost $1,000 to
more than $5,000. "Because your legs are constantly in motion, this type of riding
provides much more aerobic benefit than geared-bike riding," |
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This is a difficult question to answer on as impersonal
a medium as the Web. The best analogy I've been able to come up with is that riding
a multi-speed bike -- and especially one with index shifting -- is like
driving a car with an automatic transmission. Riding a fixed-gear bike (or a
single speed, to a lesser extent) is like driving a sports car with a manual
transmission. Other than on a freeway during rush hour.... Riding fixed puts
you closer to the pavement. You know when the road turns up or down. Simple
maneuvers like turning require that you concentrate fully on your
relationship with the bike. Riding fixed is an incredible workout. Think for
a minute how often you coast during a ride. On a fixed gear, you can't coast.
Ever. If you don't use your brakes (a strategy I no longer advocate: it's
pretty hard on the knees), downhills become the toughest part of your rides.
The first time I rode fixed, I was hooked. Maybe that's why I believe that
experiencing it is the only way to really understand. Try borrowing a fixed
gear bike from a friend if you can. You'll have a hard time giving it back.
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As Sheldon Brown says in his excellent fixed-gear
pages, every enthusiastic cyclist should have a go at riding a fixed-gear
machine at some point - you don't have to be a full-on `trackie' to enjoy it.
My main reason for going back to riding a `fixie' was to improve my pedalling
technique. I do a lot of touring and tend to freewheel far more than I
should, so this is an ideal way to `train' myself not to freewheel. Contrary
to popular belief, it is possible to freewheel on a fixed gear, just not for
very long!. |
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Riding a fixed gear on the road is excellent exercise.
When you need to climb, you don't need to think about when to change gears,
because you don't have that option. Instead, you know that you must just
stand up and pedal, even though the gear is too high for maximum climbing
efficiency. This makes you stronger. If you have the option of gearing down
and taking a hill at a slow pace, it is easy to yield to the temptation. When
you ride a fixed gear, the need to push hard to get up the hills forces you
to ride at a higher intensity than you otherwise might. Really steep hills
may make you get off and walk, but the hills you are able to climb, you will
climb substantially faster than you would on a geared bicycle. |
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...I ride basically everything on my fixed. For
example, the BOB ride that you almost made it to a few weeks ago I rode on my
recumbent that day. A few days later, I rode the same route on my fixie. This
ride is the Issaquah Salmon Cycle 100 KM loop, going up and over the plateau,
out to Ames Lake road and then to Carnation, down to Fall City, up to
Snoqualmie Falls and North Bend and then bombs back to Issaquah on the
shoulder of I-90. Now there are some horribly steep short hills that I can't
climb on the fixie from a dead stop, but they are steep enough that I can
walk up them faster than I could pedal up them anyway and no matter what bike
I'm on I usually don't go looking for the absolute worst stuff. |
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