Haha, you bastards requested it so here it is. How to make some
delicious pads with the pro 53.
First step in any tutorial with the Pro 53 will be to clear your
settings. I dont work from presets. Working from scratch lets
you control every aspect of the sound. So press load, and find
empty(1).p5a in your presets directory.
If you want a little whiney pad that sounds like a weasle screaming
because it has just caught the early flight home and walked in
on it's wife in bed with your best friend's brother, you're done,
congratulations! If you want real pads though, its gonna need
tweaking.
Step 1: Turn the second oscilator's saw wave on (the first
is already on).
Step 2: Turn the kbd button on (god knows what this
button is good for, it makes osc b play a constant tone). Make
sure its the button in the oscilator panel, NOT the knob in the
filter panel.
Step 3: The sound's way too detuned, so bring the "Fine"
knob down a notch. You want it a little detuned because its a
supersaw, and the detune is what makes it FAT.
Step 4: Here's one of the most important keys to making
big sounds. Turn the unison button on and crank up the voices
to 7 or more (7 is the number of saws used by the jp8080.)
Step 5: Now turn the analog knob up 4 notches. This button
works a lot like the detune knob of a jp8080. It separates the
7 voices by detuning them all a certain # of cents away from the
4th voice, like this:
< 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 >
The analog knob controls how wide those spaces are
inbetween the voices. Don't turn it too high or it gets really
detuned though. Keep it around 4 to 5.
Step 6: Already the sound should resemble that of the JP,
nice warm fuzzy sound. It's kinda muffled though, so to sort out
that, we'll increase the resonance 1 to 2 notches, depending on
how sharp the sound needs to be.
Step 7: Right, so it's still more of a lead than a pad.
No big deal. In the amplifier panel, turn the attack up a little
more than two notches. Supersaw pads should be impaling enough,
but they shouldn't click like a lead does. Turn the velocity and
release buttons on ("vel" and "release" to
the left of the amplifier) and then turn the release up 3 notches.
Step 8: Sounds pretty good now, apart from being a bit
dry, but it's still pretty cold and digital. The key to the Rank
1 sound and the warmth of the jp 8080 is FREQUENCY MODULATION.
This can be a seemingly complex setup if you're a pro 53 newbie.
Go over to the left part of the synth, you should see an LFO panel
and a Wheel-Mod panel. You're gonna wanna turn the LFO up about
4.5 notches, and set the waveform to triangle. You're going to
use the LFO to control the modulation. You do this by going to
the Wheel-Mod panel and clicking "FrqA" and the "B"
that follows it, which means frequency modulation for osc A and
for osc B, respectively. Right now it probably sounds way too
wavery. Now go to the modulation wheel, which is besides the pitch
wheel at the bottom left. It defaults partially up, but the frq
mod of the pro 53 is very very sensitive, so you need to turn
it down so much that it almost looks off, it should only be a
couple of pixels away from 0.
lfo:
wheel mod: .
Weeeeeeeeee the general sound is done. You should
probably save this now by clicking the save button, "Save
Editbuffer," and placing it in your presets directory. Now
you can call on it whenever you want.
This is only half of the battle though. Most of
the work with sounds comes with effects. There are some onboard
effects I like to do before I move on to the external effects
within the sequencer. Here's a quick rundown:
Step 1: Turn the "Time" knob up 5 notches
(this is in the Delay Effect panel all the way to the right).
Turn Spread up 2 notches, Depth up 2 notches, and Rate up 2 notches.
Step 2: Turn the Feedback knob up all the way.
Step 3: Turn the "Wet" knob up 2 notches and press the
"On" button to turn on the effects.
These are just the basic settings I use to get some
of the dryness out of the sound from the start, you're free to
experiment. Im much more comfortable experimenting with the external
sequencer effects though. So moving on.....
EQ: There are lots of great effects we can
now put on the sound, the most important of which being the EQ.You
can either EQ first or EQ last, its up to debate, but I prefer
to get the sound clean before I put reverb and stereo enhancers
and what not. The other side of the debate is that with EQ last,
you clean the whole sound and not just the source, but this can
also lead to flatness. Up to you really.
Either way, you're settings will be the same. Because
these are pads, we really can't have anything interfering with
our bassline, so you're going to have to cut everything at 90
hz. And because we know 250 hz is the muddiness area, we're gonna
cut a little bit here too. If your highs are clipping, you might
want to cut a little bit at 16 khz with a relatively sharp bandwidth
to remove some of that hiss.
Reverb: Any kind of default reverb will work
really, if you have some kind of special preset you've made, have
a ball. I stick with the default, gives the sound the wetness
I need and I'm not really picky about it.
Delay: I throw an external delay on for added
depth. Im a little more specific about the delay settings than
the reverb, so I have a preset that I made for my pads. Again,
experimentation is key. You don't want so much offset that it
really echoes a lot, but you want enough that it thickens up the
sound. I can't really give you specifics because everybody uses
different plugins.
Stereo Separation: This is thrown on top
to spread the sound around in the spectrum a little. It makes
the pad sound wider and warmer. If you want an impaling pad, you
might not want this, but if you want something wide and encompassing,
definitely try this.
Last Tip: When using the pads, you might want to
duplicate the pro 53 instance and play the pad on a lower octave
(like a bass pad) to give support and harmony. The sound can be
thin on its on, but with 2 instances of it playing chords + a
solid sub bass pad, it will work great.
Yay we're done. Cigars and marshmallow ducks for
all of you! Until next time....
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