Pattern Making:

• ADULT CLOSE FITTING BODICE BLOCK
  
• ADULT EASY FITTING BODICE BLOCK
  
• ADULT SKIRT
  
• ADULT SLEEVE
  
• CHILD BODICE BLOCK
  
• CHILD SLEEVE
  
• PATTERN ESSENTIALS

Adult Close Fitting Bodice Block:

• Bust : 88 cm.
• Nape to Waist : 40 cm.
• Waist to Hip : 20.6 cm.
• Armhole Depth : 21 cm.
• Neck Size : 37 cm.
• Shoulder : 12.25 cm.
• Back Width : 34.4 cm.
• Dart : 7 cm.
• Chest : 32.4 cm.

1. Square down from 0.
2. Square halfway across the block. 0 to 1 is 1.5 cm.
3. 1 to 2 is armhole depth +0.5 cm (21.5 cm). Square across.
4. 2 to 3 is 1/2 of bust measurement + 5 cm. Square up and down. Mark this line the center front line (49 cm).
5. 3 to 4 is equal to 0 to 2. 1 to 5 is nape to waist measurement (40 cm).
6. Square across to 6.
7. 5 to 7 is waist to hip measurement (20.6 cm).
8. Square across to front line and mark point 8 (this gives 1/2 of hip measurement + 2.5 cm).

1. 0 to 9 is 1/5 neck size - 0.2 cm. (7.2 cm).
2. Draw in back neck curve 1 to 9.
3. 1 to 10 is 1/5 of armhole depth measurement - 0.7 cm (3.7 cm).
4. Square halfway across the block.
5. 9 to 11 shoulder length measurement + 1 cm (13.25 cm).
6. Draw back shoulder line to touch the line from 10.
7. 12 is center of shoulder line.
8. 12 to 13 draw a dotted line 5 cm long and sloping inwards 1 cm.
9. Construct dart 1 cm wide, with this line as center (mark both sides of dart the same length).
10. 2 to 14 is half back width +0.5 cm (ease) (17.7 cm).
11. Square up to 15.
12. 14 to 16 half the measurement 14 to 15.
13. 17 midway between 2 and 14.
14. Square down with a dotted line to point 18 on waist line and to point 19 on hip line.

1. 4 to 20 is 1/5 neck size - 0.7 cm (6.7 cm).
2. 4 to 21 is 1/5 neck size - 0.2 cm (7.2 cm).
3. Draw in front neck curve 20 to 21.
4. 3 to 22 is 1/2 chest measurement + 1/2 width of dart measurement (19.7 cm).
5. Square up. 3 to 23 is 1/2 the measurement 3 to 22.
6. Square down with a dotted line to point 24 on waist line and point 25 on hip line.
7. 26 is the bust point, 2.5 cm down from 23.
8. Draw a line joining 20 to 26.
9. 20 to 27 is dart width measurement.
10. Draw a line joining 26 to 27.
11. 11 to 28 1.5 cm. Square out approximately 10 cm to 29.
12. 27 to 30, draw a line from 27 shoulder length measurement to touch the line from 28 to 29 (12.25 cm).
13. 22 to 31 is 1/3 the measurement 3 to 21.
14. 32 is midway between 14 and 22.
15. Square down with a dotted line to point 33 on waist line and 34 on the hip line.
16. Draw armhole touching points 11, 16, 32, 31, and 30.

Adult Easy Fitting Bodice Block:

• Bust : 88 cm.
• Nape to Waist : 40 cm.
• Waist to Hip : 20.6 cm.
• Armhole Depth : 21 cm.
• Neck Size : 37 cm.
• Shoulder : 12.25 cm.
• Back Width : 34.4 cm.
• Dart : 7 cm.
• Chest : 32.4 cm.

1. Square down from 0.
2. Square halfway across the block. 0 to 1 is 1.5 cm.
3. 1 to 2 is armhole depth +2.5 cm. Square across.
4. 2 to 3 is 1/2 of bust measurement + 7 cm. Square up and down. Mark this line the center front line.
5. 3 to 4 is equal to 0 to 2. Square across from 4.
6. 1 to 5 is nape to waist measurement (40 cm).
7. Square across to 6.
8. 5 to 7 is waist to hip measurement (20.6 cm).
9. Square across to 8.

1. 0 to 9 is 1/5 neck size - 0.2 cm. (7.2 cm).
2. Draw in back neck curve 1 to 9.
3. 1 to 10 is 1/5 of armhole depth measurement - 1 cm (3.7 cm).
4. Square halfway across the block.
5. 9 to 11 shoulder length measurement + 1 cm (13.25 cm).
6. Draw back shoulder line to touch the line from 10.
7. 2 to 12 is 1/2 back width + 1 cm (ease) (18.2 cm).
8. Square up to 13.
9. 12 to 14 half the measurement 12 to 13.

1. 4 to 15 is 1/5 neck size - 0.7 cm (6.7 cm).
2. 4 to 16 is 1/5 neck size - 0.2 cm (7.2 cm).
3. Draw in front neck curve 15 to 16.
4. 15 to 17 is 1/2 the standard dart measurement.
5. 3 to 18 is 1/2 chest measurement + 1 cm + 1/2 the measurement 15 to 17. Square up (19 cm).
6. 18 to 19 is 1/2 the measurement 3 to 16 - 2 cm.
7. 3 to 20 is 1/2 the measurement 3 to 18.
8. Join 15 to 20 and 17 to 20 to form a dart.
9. 11 to 21 is 1.5 cm, square out 15 cm to 22.
10. 17 to 23 draw a line from 17 shoulder length measurement +0.5 cm to touch the line from 21 to 22 (12.75 cm).
11. 18 to 24 is 1/2 the measurement 12 to 18.
12. Square down to 25 on waist line and 26 on the hip line.
13. Draw armhole touching points 11, 14, 24, 19, and 23.

Adult Skirt:

• Waist : 68 cm.
• Hip : 93 cm.
• Waist to hip : 20.6 cm.
• Shirt Length : 58.5 cm or according to design.

1. Square down and across from 1.
2. 1 to 2 is 1/2 hip + 1.5 cm (48 cm).
3. Square down. Mark this line as center front line
4. 1 to 3 is the skirt length.
5. Square across to 4 on the center front line.
6. 1 to 5 is waist to hip measurement.
7. Square across to 6 on the center front line.

1. 5 to 7 is 1/4 the hip measurement + 1.5 cm (ease) (24.75 cm.).
2. Square down to 8 on the hem line.
3. 1 to 9 is 1/4 waist measurement + 4.25 cm (21.25 cm).
4. 9 to 10 is 1.25 cm.
5. Join 10 to 1 and 10 to 7 with dotted lines.
6. Divide the line 1 to 10 in three equal parts.
7. Mark point 11 and 12. Using the line 1 to 10, square down from point 11 and point 12 with dotted line.
8. 11 to 13 is 14 cm. 12 to 14 is 12.5 cm.
9. Construct two darts on these lines each 2 cm wide.
10. Draw in the waist line with slight curve. Draw in the side seam curving it outwards 0.5 cm.

1. 2 to 15 is 1/4 waist + 2.25 cm (19.25 cm).
2. 15 to 16 is 1.25 cm.
3. Join 16 to point 2 and to point 7 with dotted line. 16 to 17 is 1/3 the distance 2 to 16.
4. Using the line 2 to 16 square down from 17 with the dotted line.
5. 17 to 18 is 10 cm. Construct a dart on this line 2 cm wide.
6. Draw in the waist line with slight curve. Draw in the side seam curving it outwards 0.5 cm.

1. 1 to 9 is 1/4 waist + 5.25 cm.
2. 2 to 15 is 1/4 Waist + 2.75 cm.

Adult Sleeve:

• Sleeve Length : 14 in.
• Round Arm : 10 in.

1. 0 to 1 draw a vertical line of sleeve length.
2. 0 to 2 is 1/4 chest - 1/2".
3. Join 1 to 3 and 2 to 3.
4. 2 to 4 is 1/12 of chest.
5. 1 to 5 is 1/2 round arm.
6. Join 4 to 5. Join 0 to 4 and divide it into four equal parts namely 0 to 6, 6 to 7, 7 to 8, and 8 to 4.
7. From 6 go up 1/2" and from 7 go up 3/4".
8. From 8 go down 1/2".
9. For front armhole join 0, 6', 7, 8', and 4.
10. For back armhole join 0, 7', and 4.

Note: If there is not much difference between lower and upper arm, then give the curve shaping as shown in the diagram here.

Child Bodice Block:

• Chest : 22 in.
• Waist : 21.5 in.
• Cross Back : 9 in.
• Waist Length : 9 in.
• Finished Dress Length: 20 in.

1. Draw a line segment AB of 12" (1/2 of chest + 1).
2. Draw another line segment BC of 9" (waist length).
3. Join AD and DC. Mark the mid point of AD as E.
4. Mark the midpoint of AE as F.
5. Mark the midpoint of AF as G.
6. Mark a point H on AB so that AH = 2.2" and point O on AD so that AO = 1/2". Join OH by drawing a curve.
7. Mark a point I on GG' so that GI is 4.5" (1/2 of crossback).
8. Join HI and extend it to J so that IJ = 1/2".
9. Drop a perpendicular from I on EE'.
10. Mark the midpoint of EE' as K. Join JK by drawing a curve.
11. Drop a perpendicular from K on DC at L.
12. Mark points M and M' on either side of L (1/2"). Join KM and KM'.
13. Mark a point H' on AB so that H'B = 2.2" and N on BC so that BN = 2.5".
14. Join HN by drawing a curve.
15. Join H'I and mark a point J' on H'I so that H'J' = HI.
16. Drop a perpendicular from J' on EE' meeting FF' at P. RP = 1/2".
17. Draw a curve joining points J', R, and K.

Child Sleeve:

• Sleeve Length : 5 in.
• Chest : 22 in.

Construction Line:

1. Draw a line segment AD of 5" (Sleeve Length).
2. Draw a line segment AB of 5" (1/4 of Chest -1/2").
3. Draw BC || AD and DC ||AB. Mark a point E on BC so that BE = 2.4" (1/9 of chest). Join AE.
4. Divide AE into four equal parts namely AH, HO, OP, and PE.
5. Mark a point H' above H so that HH' = 1/4". Similarly, mark a point O' above o so that OO' = 1/2". Mark a point P' below P so that PP" = 1/4". Remember! the points taken should be perpendicular to AE.
6. Draw a curve joining A, O', and E. Draw another curve joining A, H', O, P', and E.
7. Mark a point F on DC so that FC = 1". Join EF.
8. Mark a point G on EF so that GF = 1/4". Join DG by drawing a curve.

Pattern Essentials:

• The name of each piece, for example, sleeve, collar,etc.
• Center Back and Center Front.
• The number of pieces to be cut.
• Fold: Place on fold of fabric.
• Notches or Balance Marks: These are used to make sure pattern pieces are sewn together at the correct points.
• Lengthening and Shortening Lines: 
  1. To Shorten: Fold at the printed lines to form a pleat half the amount to be shortened, i.e. 1.3 cm (1/2") deep to shorten 2.5 cm (1").
  2. To Lengthen: Cut pattern between printed lines and place paper underneath. Spread pattern the required amount and pin to paper.

• Seam Allowance:
  1. Basic Seams: Example, side seams, style seams ... 1.5 or 2 cm.
  2. Enclosed Seams: Example, collars, facings, cuffs ... 0.5 cm.
  3. Hem: Depth depends on shape or finish ... 1 to 5 cm.
  4. Fabrics which fray easily will require wider turnings especially around facings and cuffs.
  5. No seam allowance is required on fold.
  Seam allowance can be marked by lines around the pattern or notches at the end of the seam. For an individual garment, it is not necessary to add seam allowances to the pattern, they can be chalked on the fabric. If the pattern has no seam allowance, mark it clearly on the pattern.
• Construction Line: These includes darts, button holes, pocket facing, tucks, pleat lines, decorative stitch lines. These lines are marked on the pattern or shown by punch holes.
• Grain Lines: To achieve the effect you require, you must understand the principle of placing a pattern on the correct grain of the fabric. Mark the grain lines on the working pattern with an arrow. Mark into sections, once in pieces it can be difficult to find the correct grain on complicated pattern sections.
• Pattern Size.