'Cycling with Sasaks' - across Lombok by bicycle.

After our mammoth paddle from Cape Amed to the promised shores of Senggigi Beach, our bodies were well and truly ready for a rest. Our hotelier sponsors, Novotel, once again, rallied to our aid, and in such style. The Mandlika Coralia Resort nestling on the southern fringe of Lombok is a veritable paradise; and the perfect spot for us to regain our energies ready for our jaunt across Lombok. Our route takes us back up through the villages of Sengkol and Batujai, and into a memorable sunset in Lomboks most scenic rice paddies. The final rays of a pleasant day's ride are reflected in the shallow muddy waters, as workers make the most of the dying light. We continue our ride the next day up to Senggigi beach once again and then onwards towards the famous Gilli Islands. The ride takes us along a viciously steep road that climbs before shooting back down to the sea once again. Our views of the deep blue seas and breaking surf are nothing short of breathtaking, and yet we can barely appreciate them. We find ourselves pushing up some of the steepest sections - and streams of sweat trickle off us. Just before Bangsal we find a tiny jetty for outrigger canoes out to the Gillis. We hoist our laden bicycles high above our heads to load them aboard our ferry to the island. We've chartered our very own boat - to save us a few kilometres of riding - but its a fantastic way to reach the islands on our very own brightly painted canoe. It crashes through the waves - and although I'm a little worried about the salt water splashing over the bikes, the view of the three tiny palm fringed islands is far more exciting. As the bamboo stabilisers glide through the deep blue water we skip past Gilli Air and Gilli Meno - bound for our destination Gilli Trawangan. We pass a few days here soaking in the sun, the crystal waters, and the exotic fish that flutter and crowd the waters not 20 metres off the main beach. Its quite incredible. For us we could barely ask for more; great food, with air conditioned rooms, and natural surroundings that surely are among the best in the world. We sip ice cool beers in the clear night air beneath the twinkling stars. Andrew and I ride alone away from the Gilli. Although the team is still 6 strong the others have decided on a few more days in paradise, and will catch us up further East. Our ride from Bangsal in the midmorning is thirsty work indeed. The road continues to undulate and it seems that the temperature is unusually high today. The usually lush green flora at the roadside has turned today to a sunscorched brown - and we find ourselves entering a new landscape. The road around the north side of the island is in great condition and gives us a perfectly smooth passage, but it doesn't have the feel of the trodden path. We're greeted by folk at the roadside with wide eyes and friendly smiles. Few villages interrupt our ride, and so we ride on and on, without reason to stop. We know we have a tough ride today - and we gather that our route will take us high into the Rinjani National Park. Quite how high we can't be sure, but we know its going to be a late night. Setting off in the mid morning means that we're only just beginning our climb up to Sembalun as the sun dips low in the sky. The warm light casts long shadows from the palms between the paddies, and we're still climbing. The road finally in the last moments of the day begins a drastic gradient and Andrew and I are both reduced to pushing. We're soaked and after our nights out on the beer in the Gilli's we're not quite up to the challenge. Without any alternatives, and having made arrangements with Chris and Dean two of our team members, we struggle upwards into the forest. Even before the proper onset of night, we're enveloped in a sticky, murky dusk. The forest has suddenly grown thick and dark, and at the same time has come menacingly to life. The noises that echo all around us are unlike any that we have heard before on our journey. This is a new jungle chorus - the chorus across the Wallace line - and it sends a shiver down the spine. We just hope we don't get to meet any of the reptile life that this side of the Wallace Line is infamous for! We liberally smear ourselves with 100 concentration Deet formula in an effort to keep the mosquitoes away, Our eyes soon stinging as it dribbles down along with the rivers of sweat that continue to roll from every pore. In the pitch black we finally reach our target Sembalun Lawang. We collapse into the guesthouse to find Dean and Chris swatting flies for all their worth, worrying themselves about our late night in the jungle and knocking back the Bintangs as some consolation. Chris's words echo in my ears as he gets ready for bed. 'Now this Mandy thing - just how does it work? If you go to the toilet in there - well - how does it get out again?' I explain to Chris that the big concrete water tank is for flushing the toilet using the obligatory plastic saucepan that is supplied. I go on to enlighten Chris on the use of the saucepan for washing oneself at the end of the day's ride. I don't think Chris bothered washing - preferring to wait for his imminent return to Bali the next day! 'I think I can just about make it if I hold on - I'll be able to make it back to Bali before I need the toilet!'. As we waved Chris off we wished he'd be able to stay a little longer - but were so glad to see a face from Taunton - all the way out here! A beautiful crisp sunny morning greets us the next day - and we breakfast rapidfly and get underway early. We're eager to actually see the famed Sembalun valley rather than ride it at night. The latticework of neatly tended fields is a joy to behold. As we make our final climb up to the pass the vista is a picture postcard. The white cottonwool clouds billowing over the ridge, and cutting a dramatic contrast both to the deep green of the velveted valley walls and the perfect pale blue of the sky. We pause for just a few moments atop the pass to drink in the marvellous view before we're surrounded by mountain mist. A chill in the air tells us its time to dive down the other side. Our second breakfast stop beckons! We race down the steep and slippery road - flying round hairpin beds and screaming along straight sections between the mighty hardwood trees. Sqwawks of 'danger, danger' are heard at every turn - the jungle is alive with grey and black monkeys. We see their inquisitive but timid faces peering out at us from behind the foliage. And then a clatter of branches and leaves and they dance off across the canopy to safer places. A brief rain shower brings us to a halt in Sapit village. We enjoy a quick snack in the Hati Suci restaurant and savour yet another magnificent panorama. This time we're looking out towards Sumbawa. After the rain relents we're cruising down towards the coast the temperature rising once again - but the view making up for the temperature. We can see the whole Salas Strait, our route clearly visible, and looking tantalisingly easy. Just a few short kilometres and we're pulling in to Labuan Lombok. Amid the hustle and bustle of a busy Indonesian port town we find a simple hotel and restaurant that serves us delicious grilled tuna steak. The night is a hot and clammy one, but we're ready for our crossing tomorrow; tomorrow we head for Sumbawa.