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UPDATED: 24 April 2005<---a long time ago!
(11 Feb, 2011) - The dates on this site are a dead giveaway that I don't build potato guns anymore. I've moved on to career type hobbies :). You can check out my latest electronics projects at http://Tech-Tut.com I thought about this site today and came to check it out. I had a laugh because I hadn't updated anything on here in almost six years. If you still want to build a "Solen-tater", just use three 9 volt batteries with it. Most solenoids are meant to be used with 24V AC controllers. I didn't know that back in the day. If you are here, I appreciate you stopping by. I can't believe Angelfire is still around... <\p>
(10 April, 2005) In July of 2000, I decided I would build a potato gun to keep up with my friend's technological advances. He had been out of high school for some 2 years and worked at my family's company and knew me through the business (and I'm sure something else that almost 5 years later I can't remember). When you have a 18 and 20 year old "kids" hanging out, there is bound to be mischief. It has been 4 years and some change since the building of my first potato gun. I recently signed onto AOL instant messenger and received a message from someone that had just looked through this site. He (and I assume the person on the other end is a guy) had a suggestion of how to improve something I have showcased on this site. I have recently abandoned the project and sold the evidence, but took to heart the improvement. I also took to heart that people still enjoy something that I obviously haven't done in a while. I joined the Army a year after creating this site and I haven't done much to improve it since then. The "Solentater" has been a *NEW* idea for almost a year. Some kind of Tatergun site this is!? Although I cannot promise that I can make it better I can promise that I will "try" to improve it. I am sure that people with slow internet providers look at it the most, therefore I will try and make the main page smaller in size and link it to separate pages for the "old" designs. I am also going to add a links page that is separate from the "web-ring" to facilitate some sites with ideas that are unique as my own. I must go eat dinner now, but I leave you with this...Potato cannons are, without fail, never boring and never stale, but my dinner will be if I don't get it within ten minutes. |
(24 April, 2005) Paypal seems to be one of my most visited spots on the net these past few weeks. I love to sell stuff on Ebay and I had the most brilliant idea...why don't I sell pre-assembled taterguns online??? I'm going to put a poll on here to get some input from the visitors to this site. Please visit my blog site and leave a comment on whether or not I should build and sell them on my site. |
Plans and descriptions for: Tater2000(opens a new window), Airspud(opens a new window), Airpea and SolentaterNEW |
How to build the Airpea. Does not include interchangeable barrels. |
12" of 1.5" Sched. 40 PVC |
22" of 3/4" Sched. 40 PVC |
(ONE) 1.5" End cap |
(ONE) 1.5" Coupling |
(ONE) 1.5" x 3/4" Reducer Bushing |
(ONE) 3/4" PVC ball valve |
(ONE) Tire valve |
PVC cement |
This gun is safer but still has a great risk. |
Step one: Drill .5" hole in end cap for tire valve. |
Step two: Cut 4" off the 22" of 1.5" pipe. You now have a 4" and 18" piece of pipe. |
Step three: Sand all parts to be glued |
Step four: Wash pipe in soapy water or prime it. Which ever you care to do. |
Step five: Pull tire valve through hole in end cap |
Step six: Glue end cap on one end of 1.5" pipe |
Step seven: Glue 1.5" coupling to the other end of 1.5" pipe |
Step eight: Glue 1.5" x 3/4" reducer into 1.5" coupling |
Step nine: Glue 4" piece of 3/4" pipe into 1.5" x 3/4" reducer |
Step ten: Glue ball valve onto 4" piece of 3/4" pipe |
Step eleven: Glue 18" piece of 3/4" pipe into ball valve |
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PSI | Velocity (m\s) ±5% | DPA=15 | DPA=30 | DPA=45 | DPA=60 | DPA=75 | Projectile |
20 | 19 | 18 | 32 | 37 | 32 | 18 | Bottle Rocket Technology |
40 | 26 | 34 | 60 | 69 | 60 | 34 | Bottle Rocket Technology |
60 | 32 | 52 | 90 | 104 | 90 | 52 | Bottle Rocket Technology |
80 | 39 | 78 | 134 | 155 | 134 | 78 | Bottle Rocket Technology |
100 | 45 | 103 | 179 | 207 | 179 | 103 | Bottle Rocket Technology |
I have designed a better projectile for the
Airpea. It is constructed of 3/4" dowel rod with a tail of 1/4" dowel rod.
I like to refer to it as bottle rocket technology.
These calculations neglect air resistance. To reach these distances projectile must be shot with a strong wind. (DPA=xx) - Distance Per Angle {45 would be the furthest if air resistance was non-existent} Not Exact (±5%) The overall average cost of the "Airspud" is $30.00. Status: (No longer own) |
This page is devoted to my hobbies. This page describes a project I am designing. |
These sounds seem fake but that is exactly how they sound. Sad but true. They sound like cartoons. |
Pneumatic Airpea (26k) - Full of water - Water seems to vaporize immediately. Makes a loud pop. Airspud (10k) - Full of water - Sends 38 fluid ounces of water up to 50 feet drenching anything in its path. Makes a funny sound too. Airspud (8k) -Wet sock (simulates the quietness) Wet socks are great for neighbors. They hang in tops of trees and start to stink in only a few days. |
How to Fire Tater2000 To successfully fire the Tater2000 Aquanet in the spray can is about the best to use. And a lantern sparker can be substituted for the grill igniter because they are more reliable. |
Combustion Tater2000 (23k) |
Matt Reily's web page- Links to "Launching stuff with liquid nitrogen"
Expensive version of the "Airspud" - Not for sale so don't ask 'em
This guy has a pretty awesome site. These are his links. He has researched it as well as I have. Check out his site. You won't be disappointed.
Have fun! |
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The newest of my potato
endeavors is the "Solentater". I built this whole
thing for less than $37.00. I ordered a few parts in
the mail, and made 3 trips to 2 different hardware stores to get pipe and
other PVC parts. Not to mention the all purpose shop stop at Wal-Mart.
Unfortunately, at this time, I do not have any tests or performance
estimates...and where I am now, I probably won't. I am wrapping my chamber in duct tape just in case it does decide to explode. I still don't trust PVC pipe and I never will. A problem I have with this one is that a regular 9 volt battery is not enough to engage the solenoid. Maybe when I get out of the Army I'll have time to find a better power source. If someone finds an improvement let me know. |
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Parts (and prices I paid)
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Step one: Drill 7/16" hole in end cap for tire valve. |
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Step two: Sand then wash (in soapy water) all parts to be glued then dry |
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Step three: Pull tire valve through hole in end cap |
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Step four: Glue End Cap onto 1.5" PVC |
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Step five: Glue 1.5" Coupling on other end of 1.5" PVC |
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Step six: Glue 1.5" x 3/4" Reducer into 1.5" coupling |
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Step seven: Glue short 3/4" PVC into 1.5" x 3/4" Reducer |
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Step eight: Glue 3/4" Thread Adapter onto short 3/4" PVC |
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Step nine: Glue other 3/4" Thread Adaptor onto the long 3/4" PVC |
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Step ten: Wrap male threads with teflon tape and thread barrel and chamber onto valve threads (Be sure to line the airflow up with the arrows on the valve) |
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Step eleven: Let glue dry at least overnight before pressurizing |
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Step twelve: Connect wires from solenoid to battery holder and switch |
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Random Photos |
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Rob Pitts
Pitts911 (AOL Instant Messenger screen name [No emails])
No email available due to some serious spammers in the world.