Galkie's Solar Panel Tent Project
In November of 2007 I purchased a
12' X
14' Wall/Expedition tent from the Davis Tent Company out of Denver
Colorado (http://www.davistent.com).
Up to then my little 30 year old 2-man Mountain Tent was the only tent
I have ever owned. It's primary use would be as a fishing camp
sanctuary for four cold people fishing in predominately inclement
weather. For too many years my father and brothers have had to
cook and eat outside in our quest for giant Northerns in upstate New
York and we got cold. I didn't want anymore of that for either
myself or my 18-year-old son who would also be using the tent in the
near future. I decided a wall tent would be what was needed and
began my quest for such via the Internet. Most major sporting
goods sites had wall tents but they were all from foreign manufactures
and I for one have had enough of "Made in China" products. I
wanted an American made tent that would come from the mountain states,
figuring what was good for all those Elk hunters would be good for me
as well. Of the several sites I visited the Davis Tent site stood
out as being the one to go with.
To start with it was my purpose to utilize the
space
inside the tent to its fullest yet provide as much as a home-like
experience as possible. I figure I would have 2-3 years of use of
this tent before my son (now 18) begins his 20+ years of use.
Since I like fishing my primary
use of the tent
includes
island camping and lakeside camping. It was my desire to make the
tent as independent as possible so as to reduce supply trips into
town. I am budget limited but as per my father's advice I have
always tried to get the next size more expensive or the next larger
size with a "long term" mindset in mind. The tent I chose
is 12' X 14' with a 3-pole frame. I wish I could have gone
to 16-feet with a 4-pole frame but again I was budget limited and this
was my first experience with this type of tent. Before putting
the canvass on the fame I spray painted the ends of the frame's ridges
and rafters so they could be separately identified during setup.
Before taking the tent down I marked each of the ridges and rafters
with a magic marker as to their location, due to the riv-nut location.
Now I have to step back a bit. I normally
fish an "electric motor only" little lake just 10-minutes away. I
like fishing with an electric trolling motor but my lake time was
limited by battery charge time so I purchased a 40-watt solar panel
that I mounted on the top of my Johnson 30. This panel was chosen
for size limitations so it could easily be adjusted
into the sun after a turn yet still not be in the way. It was my
hope that the panel would be putting back into the battery what the
motor was taking out and it did but only at about 80% of break
even. So I figured out why not use that panel or another one with
the tent, which would eliminate going back to the marina every night to
put my battery on charge. By this time I had also purchased a
high quality ($650) Engel 12/120-volt cooler. The size I chose
was the 32-qt size, for lifting purposes, and later
found to be only one of two sizes that used only 2.5 amps to
operate. Engel coolers can freeze things, are super
quiet, and apparently are made to last 20-years or more. They
seem to be highly recommended by outfitters for remote camp use.
I had hoped that my 40-watt panel would run
the cooler but it fell a little short of doing that. What I
needed was another panel that would run that cooler even in overcast
weather. A call to my panel people at EcoVantage Energy (http://www.ecovantageenergy.com/)
put them on the problem. Later that day they emailed me telling
me what I needed to run that cooler was an 80-watt panel ($460) feeding
into one of the advanced AGM batteries ($225) in lea of the regular wet
cell battery. I then reasoned that since I would need another
panel
why not put a battery fed lightening system into the tent and eliminate
the need for lantern fuel as well. Doing that meant a little
deeper study into solar panels. I finally settled on a Sharp
123-watt panel ($625), which is pretty much the largest size you can
get and still stay with 12-volts and not have to go up into the 24-volt
range. A solar panel needs a controller ($60) to operate
properly. The controller is the brains of the two and takes the
varying voltage the panel is sending out due to clouds and evens it out
to 12-volts before letting the battery have it. It also acts like
a battery charger/protector, when the battery gets below a certain
limit it shuts down its power tap so the battery is protected and can
recharge.
The tent picture shows the two solar panels I
now utilize with the little 40-watt panel which usually is mounted on
the top of
my little Johnson 30. The larger one is the panel I use to run
the tent
electronics.
The tent is bunk-beded for five (5) people. No one piece is
over 7-ft in length so as to fit in the bottom of my boat. The
bottom left sleep section is Queen size to accommodate my son and his
wife when that time comes because when it really gets nasty outside I
figure she will want to be as close to him as possible. The bunk
above that is just over Full size. Both bunks on the right side
are just under
7-ft long and are Full size. Both bottom bunks and
the top left bunk have LED lighting. All the lower bunk bottom
panels are hinged at the rear to allow for ease-of-access to items
stored under those areas. The plywood used is 1/2". By
having the main bunk top section not as wide as the bottom section
there is now a place for 2-3 people to comfortably sit and enjoy eating
off of a small aluminum fold up table, which sets up in front of that
area. The table recesses between both bunks when not
needed. Two or three additional fold up chairs round out the
table seating area.
I wanted a decent cooking area and purchased a nice setup from
Cabela's. I was not able to extend the left section of the
cooking area do to space limitations (why I wish I now had the 16-ft
tent). I have two multi-bulb LED lights under the top
shelve, which
light
up both sections of the cooking/food processing areas very
nicely. I then made use of the 2-ft section to the right of the
cooking area by installing a "privacy" area. A small bucket
toilet is in there for emergency use only. I used shower
curtain rods in three locations to give me additional locations with
which to hang small chains that hold up various things. I used
"riv-nuts" at various locations in both the frame and the shower rods
for positioning and load bearing purposes. The cut-to-size shower
curtain used for the "Privacy" area hangs from those
small chains. My son's future wife will appreciate
that little area. I made a small coat rack that goes on the top
front of the Privacy area that will hold four coats.
The next pictures shows the use of overhead racks for little things
like gloves, hats, wallets, cereal boxes and such. Neither rack
is intended for heavy objects. The racks also provide useful wire
routing routes. I have a 1-bulb LED hanging from the center of
the tent at the rack location, to be utilized at night as a permanent
night light for the tent. Both racks and all my chain runs are
angled inwards so as not to rub against the tent at any location during
a
strong wind.
I used two oven racks as part of my drying area over the stove.
This is where the other two shower rods were used. The flat side
of each rack is positioned next to the stove pipe to minimize denting
at that location. The location/spacing of the rack
is controlled by chain length. I stayed in the tent
when a really strong front came through at night and not once did the
tent flexing result in the racks touching the stove pipe.
Now for a little of what I have learned about the stove. I
consider the stove a
welcomed necessity and it does heat up that tent rather
quickly. Wood for the stove must be pretty much split wood and
the bottom vent can be pretty much left in the "full closed"
position. In this position there is still enough space for air to
get in as you still see the orangish glow from the right side.
The damper is all that is needed to control the rate of burn. My
son stayed with me overnight a few times and now sees the benefits of
having a 60 year old in there too. My 2-3 nightly pee breaks
made me the perfect night stoker for the stove. If I or my son
wanted to stay nice and warm that stove needed to be filled twice a
night.
The hot water jacket for the stove is a nice addition but needs some
improvement. You best have a long handled wrench handy for
the tightening of that spigot nut when it comes loose due to thermal
expansion. It also tends to boil your water away too
quickly. It needs a handle at each end for easy removal and
maybe some way to extend it out from the stove a few inches in
order to reduce its heat exposure in order to control water temperature
better. For my use I'm leaving it off and going with a Lowe's
galvanized bucket with lid on the top of the stove.
For me the fun part of making this tent as fool proof and independent
as possible was the electrical system. The electrical center fits
under the window between the stove and the front of the main bunk
area. The bottom section is adequate to hold two 12-volt
batteries. I now have an AGM battery, which is temperature
tolerant, non spillable, and should last twice as long as a normal
battery. "Optima" makes a good (Absorbent Glass Mat)
battery for this use. I went with the Sears Die-Hard model for
cost and length of warranty. Cabela's also has a line of these
batteries. Most large auto parts chains offer the Optima
batteries though they will probably have to order the "marine" version
for you.
The center section houses the electrical options for the tent like
walkie-talkie chargers, small cell phone chargers, camera battery
chargers and in my tent a pure wave 1,000 watt inverter. My son
likes his little lap top and we can run that off of the inverter
but it has to be the much more expensive ($400) pure wave type.
To run an electric drill or such a Wal-Mart $70 model (modified or
square wave) will do just
fine. I have a 12-ft extension for that purpose, if more is
needed then just move the battery/inverter combination closer to
your work.
On the top goes an Engel freezer/cooler. The Engel line of
coolers are designed for 12-volt systems and draw an amazingly low
amount of current to do what they do. They are not cheap, mine
was $650 (Cabela's) but it will drop the temperature 80 degrees and
draw little
from the battery to do it. My boat 40-watt panel would not stay
ahead of it but the 123-watt panel sure did and after a long winter's
night of use holding that thing at 35 degrees (night loss was 1/3
charge) it had the battery back to full charge by 8:30 AM and on a
cloudy day to boot. Remember that the
lights and chargers were in use
as well. I tried my old style 12-volt ($100) plug-in cooler as
well and it pulled too much current as it needed to run
continuously. I do not recommend the cheap cool/heat type coolers
for this type of 24/7 use.
I chose LED bulbs for the lighting because they use virtually no
current to do what they do. I divided my tent system into two
segments to make it as son-proof as possible knowing he or his buddies
will find some way to screw the system up. Each segment is
controlled by a single switch and both segments are protected by marine
30-amp circuit breakers. One segment is for the 1-bulb night
lights and the other runs the brighter main tent
lights. The night light segment has multiple single bulb LEDs
with bulbs
over the bunks and one bulb center tent off the overhead racks for full
night illumination. That one little bulb provides more than
enough light to keep from running into that stove or to head outside
for whatever reason. I also have one of those bulbs in the
"Privacy" area. To turn these bulbs on you simply plug them into
their female mate sections on the main line. Both segments use
the same connectors and both systems can use each other's
connections. I put little cones (plastic pill cups from a
hospital stay, which I spray painted white inside and potted on the
outside with a hot glue gun) on all the single bulb lights for better
allumination/focus of their light. Not shown are two 12 bulb LED
bulbs that can easily be use for reading in one's bunk in place of the
regular 1 bulb LED. Simply unplug and switch out. You can
get these bulbs at www.dav-electronics.com
and they are called "LED 12V", bulbs and are found in their "12 Volt
LED & Controllers" section. They also have an
"Automotive LED" section " where you can get brighter multi LED bulbs
that replace car bulbs. They do not sell the bases, which you can
easily get at any of the larger automotive parts chains. Also not
shown are several leads and various length extensions.
The main
lightening segment supplies two lights mounted under the cooking
area shelve
that can be angled to cover both sections and each has their own
switch. This segment also supplies two 3-watt bulbs that provide
the main lighting for the tent. I utilize two different 3-watt
LED bulbs for this use, (You can find these bulbs at www.ledlight.com in their "12 Volt
Household" section with the first being #46856 @ $22 and the other
#87756 @ $33. You may also be interested in the much brighter
#45795 @ $27) The first
throws out a nice soft light that I put into a Wal-Mart clamp type
fixture which I have pointed straight up. Because the tent is
white it pretty much lit up the entire tent. The other bulb is
more like a little spot light, I use that for close in work or for
reading purposes. This bulb though, the triangular one, will
knock out FM radio reception but not AM reception. It
will throw a strong light to the other side of the
tent. I put that one in a Wal-Mart desk lamp fixture. When
both systems were fully activated the voltage drop was 1/10 of a volt,
the battery didn't even feel the draw. A note here; When
you put these bulbs into those fixtures you must cut off the 120-volt
plug and solder on battery clamps for the 12-volt batteries.
The last item I plan on also using in the tent
is my home Berkey water filtration system (http://www.berkeyfilters.com/).
I have been using this water purification system ($209) for over a year
now and really like it. With the Berkey system I can use filtered
lake water
for all my needs. Because I went with the plastic version I had
to make it horse-play proof as best I could due to my son and his
buddies. The best location I had for that was right next to the
food preparation area, which would also be just out of the way of the
fold-up dining table. I chose a Lowe's heavy duty plastic bucket
for that purpose. I cut the bottom out of it and cut a little
slot in the side so I could see the water levels in the filter. I
use two heavy duty screws with fender washers to mount the bucket with
the top screw going
through one of the square handle mounts while the other goes straight
through the bucket and utilizes fender washers for positioning.
The bucket is tilted due to the tilt of the square handle mount, which
I left that way to keep it as stress free as possible. It is my
hope that when someone gets pushed into that thing the bucket will
absorb the blow and prevent damage to the filter assembly. You
lose that and you lose your clean water. The
little support shelve pivots to let the filter up into the
bucket.
When properly positioned the filter does not contact the safety bucket.
My son and I have slept in the tent several
times now in windy snowy weather and I am quite satisfied with what I
have accomplished here. It is about as stand-alone a tent setup
can be while providing a small group of people with pretty much the
comforts of home. A neighbor of mine who does a lot of camping
watched me working on this the entire time. His initial comments
were that it was much too immobile for practical use but he really
liked the quality of the tent material. When the tent was
fully operational he then thought of it as being ahead of it's time as
he was quite impressed with the finished product. Granted you
aren't going to be backpacking this set up into the back woods but you
sure can pull it from the inside of a van to setup on a lakeside camp
site or put it in a boat for set up on a remote
island. Some of the
visitors saw it as somewhat of an "end-of-times" shelter, referring to
the "Book of Revelation" predictions. If you look at it in that
perspective it sure would be nice to have if there was no more
electricity or water being pumped anywhere. In any case it has
been a fun project, which pretty much seems to be the first of it's
kind. As word of what I have done here gets out I do believe more
folks will be running with at least some of what I have done
here.
As for me, I hope to be putting that tent up
on an island at Dale Hollow Lake on the high plateau in central
Tennessee, just 3-1/3 hrs away. I am 60 now so I will be taking
my time doing it. Though Dad is no longer with us he surely would
be impressed with the set up considering what we had to go through with
when we
were
going
after that record Northern in upstate NY just a week or so after
ice-out. That was when the
fish there went on a feeding frenzy. That's me in my younger
years with the red shirt. We usually only had two actual fishing
days out of the five days we could allot for the trip, the rest of the
time we were weathered in (4-ft waves) spending most of it just
chatting away on the
picnic table we brought into the bug net. By the way, the Black
flies were terrible except when out on the water. Now I'm
after the record Musky and I believe I know where she
lives on Dale Hollow. She will be just over 75-lbs. I
have some nice light salt-water gear from my oil rig days and will be
using some special made lures made years ago just for me. If your
going after the record Musky you have to have a meal and not a
snack. That lure is called a "Lindel Lunker" and looks just like
a dying sucker on the surface when pulled slowly. So now I have
the
time, the desire, and now as well the equipment to do it with and do it
in comfort with that Davis tent. I sure hope that what I am
starting up here once again can be continued with my son and his
friends as
a regular thing. I call it "Musky Camp" and now its done in style.
John Galkiewicz