Caution - Wet Paint
This post was about proper lighting for your painting/work area.
Phil Neuscheler From: NeuschelerP@aol.com
Direct sunlight is the best lighting you can get, though some prefer indirect sunlight
because of the extreme brightness of direct rays. Artists who can manage it will have
natural lighting for their studios. That said, most of us have to paint after the sun is
down, and require artificial light. Whatever lighting you like is best for you. Small
changes in shading caused by differing lighting will not hurt your work. After all, it is
highly likely that your finished work will be observed under artificial light - and often
in a convention locale which uses fluorescence. Players won't really notice anything other
than that your pieces are actually painted. Contest judges will probably be looking for
well painted miniatures, and will not check for absolute coloration against any type of
standard. Only photographs will pick up the color changes caused by the light you painted
under, and photos/digitized images can always be color manipulated by use of tungsten
lighting or color correcting film/papers of by absolute change on a photo editing program.
At worst, your work will take on a uniform hue which your lighting bias causes. This is
not bad, especially for fantasy miniatures. |
Ken Redmond From: kenredm@concentric.net
I have done some testing with the different lights sources that are suitable (IMO) for
mini painting. If you want a good clean light with a color balance close to natural
daylight you need to look for one with a high CRI (Color rendering index). This is the
established standard by which man made lights are compared to sunlght. 100 is perfect
sunlight so the higher the number the better. Neodymium bulbs like the GE Enrich are an
improvement over standard incandecent bulbs but they are not really that close to
daylight. Look at a piece of white paper under them and it will show the brownish tinge of
these lights. I use the Neodymium bulbs to suppliment my main light for painting which is
a Solux Halogen clip light with a 4700K 50watt lamp that has a CRI of 98.I've measured the
output of this lamp as exceeding a standard 150 watt bulb in reflector.These are the
lights that are used in museums to illuminate artwork.In photo tests this has been the
closest lamp to natural sunlight that I have found so far. Other manufacturers are putting
out similar lights, just look for a high CRI rating. If you have a halogen lamp already
these bulbs are around $12 US and have a long life. |
Dallas Wortham
----- Original Message ----- Just add one thing that the wattages I listed are what I use in my study. The individual should adjust to his her own levels as influenced by the reflective surfaces in their room. (white walls reflect, Dark brown Funiture doesn't) |
Laszlo Jakusovsky From: L_Jakusovszky@ecam.com
Not entirely true, IMHO - flourescent lights can hurt your painting results.
Flourescents are inherently bluer, causing colors viewed under them to appear darker than
they actually are. The few times I've painted under flourescents I regretted it: blending
which I thought had a good sense of contrast just disappeared when viewed in any other
lighting conditions. After spending 3+ hours blending the flesh on a demon, only to
realize I'd blended it *too* subtly - due to the lighting - I never used flourescents
again. |
The end