BACK in the day I used to live on the side of the Pacific Highway at Greenwich, just across the road from Gore Hill Cemetery. Whenever I go to a foreign country (or, in this case, travel in my own), I usually end up in a cemetery. Whether it be Denmark, England, Japan or Vietnam! Graveyards always have so much to tell you about the vibe of a place. Many of these specimens are relics from a time, millions of years ago, when Australia was a cooler, wetter place. They combine to give the Gorge a tropical, somewhat Asian appearance, in lush contrast to the surrounding arid plains. As well as miles upon miles of excellent trekking paths, moist valleys and rugged ranges, all contained within a 280,000 hectare national park, Carnarvon Gorge also features two ancient Aboriginal art galleries.