The interior Aegean region

Inland from the Aegean sea, the fertile soil has endured the passage of many important early civilizations. Today the remains of these cultures can still be seen in the countryside as well as in the cities, towns and villages. The more recent legacy of Ottoman rule is apparent in the well-preserved, traditional, domestic Turkish architecture, and Ottoman mosques.Leisure-resorts have been built around the region's hot springs, and can accommodate those seeking the thermal springs' pleasurable and beneficial effects.

Manisa

An attractive Aegean city,Manisa has preserved several splendid examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Endowed by Ayse Sultana, mother of Suleyman the Magnificent,the Sultan Mosque was built early in the 16th century. Every year in April, on the grounds of this mosque a festival is held celebrating Mesir Macunu, a sticky imperial elixir that reputedly cured the sultan's ailing mother.The 16th century Muradiye Mosque was designed by the great architect Sinan and the adjacent medrese, or theological seminary, today houses the Archaelogical Museum. September is when the annual Harvest Festival begins. The fruit of the vinyards are brought in with great celebration. The region's numerous vineyards produce grapes, dried for export. South of the city lies the Sipil Dagi National Park, home of the famous "crying rock" of Niobe. If you travel to the northeast you come to Gordes, a pleasant town particularly known for its fine carpets. The ruins of ancient Sart (Sardis), once the capital of the Lydian realm of Croesus lies on the Sart Cayi (Pactole River). Here the first coins were minted.The Temple of Artemis and a restored gymnasium testify to the city's past splendor, as does the important third-century A.D. syngogue. On the southern side of Sardis, Mt.Boz offers trekking and other mountain sports. On its south slope, in the village of Birgi,is the Cakir Aga Mansion, a fine example of traditional Turkish architecture.

Usak

Historically,Usak was an important carpet weaving center, a role it continues to play today. Tourists find the Archaelogy Museum, informative and interesting. The Kaftanci House Museum with the Ataturk Ethnography Museum, displays wonderful Usak carpets and kilims; Ataturk resided here.

Afyon

An inaccessible and imposing citadel dating to Byzantine times overlooks this provincial city. The Archaelogical Museum and the War of Independence Memorial reveal Afyon's place in history. Monumental bas-reliefs, a legacy of the Phrygian Kingdom, are carved into rock on hills north of the city. Aslantas is the largest. At Aslankaya lion reliefs are engraved into the sides of the rock. The Acik Hava Muzesi (Open-air Museum) is near the north entrance of the town of Dinar, 100 km south of Afyon. This is the site of the legendary music contest between Apollo and Marsyas (Pan). Byzantine and Roman gravestones, inscriptions and statues can also be seen here.

Kutahya

Kutahya is one of the oldest Turkish cities, with Turkish traditions still being practiced today and important Ottoman architectural monuments, including a castle, mosques, medreses, baths, complexes, mausdeums and mansions. One of the finest mosques is the 14th century Ulu Mosque. Kutahya Castle offers a wonderful, panoramic view of the old town on the western side of the city. The Kutahya Archaelogy Museum was a medrese in the 14th century; it now displays ethnographia, Roman and Byzantine relics, and tiles of Iznik and Kutahya dating back to Ottoman times. Lajos Kossuth, the 19th century Hungarian hero, lived with his family in what is now the Kossuth Museum; relics and documents related to Kossuth are displayed in the museum.

The kilns of Kutahya produced exquisite ceramics in the 16th and 17th centuries-a craft which lives on today.You can visit the workshops where skilled artisans produce tiles, plates and bowls renowned for their cobalt blue patterns on a milky white background.

Southwest of Kutahya, is the Roman town of Cavdarhisar (Aezani) where a theater, stadium and the Temple of Zeus remain. In the same direction, Murat Mountain offers camping facilities and hot springs, amid delightful scenery. Near Dumlupinar are the Baskomutan National Park and the War of Independence memorials.

The South Aegean region

A visit to Efes (Ephesus)-once the commercial center of the ancient world-is a highlight of any visit to Turkey.The city, whose wealth and patronage supported its splendid architectural program, was dedicated to the goddess Artemis. Her enormous temple, once considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and rebuilt several times, dates in its latest form from the third century B.C. The ruins also include a theater, gymnasium, agora and baths, as well as the Library of Celsus.

The nearby town of Selcuk is dominated by a Byzantine citadel which stands close to the 6th century basilica of St.John built on the site of the Apostle's tomb. The 14th century Isa Bey Mosque, next to the basilica is accessed through its typical Seljuk portal. The Archaelogical Museum houses an impressive collection of statues and other finds recovered during the excavations at Ephesus.

The nearby Turkish Bath Museum, built in the 16th century, shows Turkish life in the hamam (bath). The Ephesus International Festival is held annually in May.

It is documented that St.John brought the Virgin Mary to Ephesus after the death of Christ and that she spent her last days in a small house (Meryemana Evi) built for her on Bulbuldagi (Mt. Koressos). Now a popular pilgrimage site for Christians and Muslims, the house has received the official sanction of the Vatican, and Chistians observe the "feast of the assumption of the Virgin Mary" every year on August 15th.

Near Selcuk in Camlik is a TCDD Open-air Steam Locomotives Museum. 9 km east of Selcuk is Sirince, known for its traditional 19th century village houses, some of which have been converted into guest-houses. Wine is produced in this small hillside Turkish village, which itself resembles an open-air museum.18 km from Selcuk are wineries where you can taste the wine produced there.

Aydin

The province's capital, also called Aydin enjoys a widespread repulation for its fine figs. Known as Tralles in ancient times, it was at the center of a celebrated sculpture school. The remains seen today date from the second century A.D.After 1186 the town came under Seljuk rule, and the local museum displays artifacts from different periods of its history. Back along the coast, Kusadasi, or Bird Island, is a lovely port built along the shores of a glittering bay. The terraced town overlooks the most beautiful inlet of the Aegean and seems to have been created purely for the delight of the holiday-maker. Be sure to visit the famous and popular Kus shopping center in the Kaleici quarter, where there is nightlong entertainment. A large, modern marina facilitates life for visiting yachtsmen.

Tusan-Kustur Beach, north of Kusadasi lies one of the cleanest beaches and 23 km south of Kusadasi is the charming holiday-resort town of Guzelcamli. West of Guzelcamli and 30 km from Kusadasi, is the Dilek Peninsula National Park, and a visit is a must for those with the time. Here amidst incredibly beautiful surroundings are some of the most wonderful views and some of the rarest wild animals in Turkey, including the Anatolian cheetah and some of Turkey's last wild horses. The park is a wildlife preserve and a haven for many species of animals and birds.

The exquisite Menderes River valley, known in the West as the Meander, has been the cradle of many civilizations. Set amidst pine, olive and oleander trees, the magnificent Camici (Bafa) Lake is a lovely place to stopover.

Tourists can choose between guest-houses or campsites.To the east of the lake rise the five peaks of the Besparmak Mountains. The Iconooclastic priests of Istanbul who came here to live, built monasteries, churches, and chapels around the base of the mountains and on the lake's islands. The ruins of the ancient city of Heraklia lie close to the lake, while the remains of Alinda are found on the eastern slopes of the Besparmak Mountains. The valley has witnessed the rise and fall of several great cities, notably Priene, Miletos, Didyma, Aphrodisias, and Hierapolis.This peaceful national reserve is an excellent place for bird-watchers, trekkers, nature-lovers and photographers.

Gullubahce (Priene) was one of the most active ports of the lonian Federation.The gridlike system of streets introduced in the forth century B.C.by Hippodamos of Miletos is a superb and early example of town planning.

Milet (Miletos), like Priene, was a great lonian port and the birthplace of several philosophers and sages. The theater justifies a visit, and be sure to see the well-

preserved ruins of the Faustina baths and the Archaeological Museum. Although Didim (Didyma) can only boast of a single monument it is nevertheless a marvelous site. The Temple of Apollo was one of antiquity's most sacred places. Many times looted and burned, the sanctuary is still impressive with its elegant beauty. A portico of double collonades surround the colossal temple. Not far from the archaelogical site, the beautiful beach of Altinkum tempts one with its many guest houses. Akbuk is another holiday resort in the region with nice beach hotels.

Although the history of Geyre (Aphrodisias) stretches back in time, the city, which was dedicated to Aphrodite, goddess of love and fertility, rose to prominence in the first century B.C. Some of the richest treasures of ancient times were uncovered in the excavations of this city. The public buildings are handsomely adorned with marble that was carved with astonishing skill, producing remarkable temples, monuments, baths, a theater and a magnificent stadium.

The reputation of the city's craftsmen for the exquisite finesse of their statuary and marble sculpting spread through the civilized world, and Aphrodisias became the center of the greatest sculpting school of antiquity. Many of its marvelous works of art are now housed in the local museum.

The theater and bouleuterion are among the city's best-preserved ruins.

Posted 24 Sep 96