Xi’an Trip Summary 西安游记
Xi’an is one of the four ancient Chinese capitals, formerly named Chang’an. More than half of the dynasties had its capital in Xi’an, for more than 1,100 years in total. Xi’an is rich in history and culture. There, people can “relive” history and see lots of artifacts first-hand. I anticipated this trip highly since it was rescheduled 3 times since September 2001. So the journey starts here:
In the afternoon of Tuesday, April 2, 2002, I met with Kristen, Shu, Ben, and Jonathon at the train station to head for Xi’an. Five of us took extra days off school to climb Huashan (华山), a holy Taoist mountain. The overnight train took approximately 13.5 hours.
We arrived at Xi’an bright and early. Our arrival was perfectly timed with sunrise. It was a spectacular sunrise: the golden sun slowly peeked through the clouds, and I couldn’t help but to take my video camera out and start filming right away. After trying to lose dozens of drivers trying to get our business, we arrived at the bus station and brought our tickets to Huashan. The journey was suppose to only take 2 hours according to the ticket person, but it actually took about 3.5 hours since we traveled on the country road beside the highway mot of the time. When we got off the crammed bus, we were sore already! First thing we did was to buy 1-kuai (15 cents; 8.2 kuai/yuan per USD) gloves for our climb. After that we stored our luggage and headed to a dumpling restaurant. Since it was low tourist season, the small base camp town looked abandoned and we were the only customers during peak lunch hours in the restaurant. Although the restaurant was supposed to be a dumpling place, it had only about 4 different kinds of dumplings. We ordered two kinds and a few dishes. The dumplings were very good and the dishes were just barely okay. Still, we ate lots because we were hungry and trying to get ready for an intense climb.
After lunch, we got loaded with water and snacks, and then headed up the mountain. The entry point for Huashan is through the beautiful Taoist Yuquan Garden (玉泉院, Jade Spring Garden). We climbed at a comfortable and steady pace up the mountain. There were lots of sceneries to take in and folklores to learn about along the way. For example we passed by or saw: Pavilion of Passing to Heaven (通天亭), Haired Girl Peak[1] (毛女峰), Water-Sound Stone (响水石)[2], Gate of Clouds (云门), Gate to the Whole Heaven (总天一门), Flying Rock[3] (飞石), Point of Turning Back (回心石)[4], Thousand Foot Precipice (one-person narrow, nearly vertical path with 260 steps cut through stone cliffs), Hundred-Foot Gorge (百尺峡, another nearly vertical passage), Bridge of Two Immortals (二仙桥), Lao Jun’s furrow (老君犁沟, steep climb with 570 steps), Rubbing Ear Rock (擦耳石, a series of steps on the cliff), Sky Ladder (天梯, another nearly vertical climb)…then we arrived at the hotel right below Golden Lock Pass (金锁关) just as gusty winds picked up and 5 minutes before dark at around 7pm. So we hiked for 6 hours that day.
With some bargaining skills, we got to stay at the mountaintop for 30-kuai a night per person. We got a 20 bed dorm all to ourselves. We then went to the restaurant to fill up on fried-rice, noodles, and veggies. The high winds caused the electricity to go out, so we ate part of our dinner under candlelight. Fortunately, generators started to work pretty soon and we got to chill in our room for the rest of the night. (Literally too, since it was pretty cold; I had two blankets & my winter coat on.) After the lights went out at 10pm, we chatted away late into the night. The gusting winds outside and the pitch-black room made it perfect for ghost stories.
Right at 6am, we woke up for another day of climbing. When we continued our ascent, we saw many mature trees uprooted or heavily damaged from the overnight winds. Fortunately, the winds died down significantly by morning. We wanted to see sunrise on from the East Peak, but it was cloudy. We saw the sun peek out for only about 10 seconds from the Pavilion for Attracting Phoenixes (引凤亭)[5] at the Middle Peak (中峰), but it was spectacular with the rays expanding into all directions. Then the clouds built up and it started to sprinkle on the mountaintop. The rain certainly added difficulty to climbing the most dangerous mountain in China.
From the Middle Peak, we proceeded up towards East Peak (东峰或朝阳峰). The most difficult part for me was probably the Cloud Ladders (云梯). It was a 20-meter-high vertical, in one section it’s about 95 degrees, where I had to propel myself over a ledge and pull myself up the steps by the chains. From there, we explored the East Peak. Since the rocks were slippery, we held on to the chains for our lives (there was a 1000+ meter drop on one side), eased ourselves across the peak. Although the climb was scary at time, it was exhilarating! After coming down from the East Peak, we headed into a restaurant for a rest and brunch. We then looked down to the Sparrowhawk Turning its Body (鹞子翻身) and Botai (博台). These two scenic spots were most impressive in the mist; however, the 50-meter vertical climb seems too dangerous to attempt in the rain.
After coming down a 200-meter long path carved out of the slopes of East Peak, we arrived at the base of the highest peak—South Peak (南峰、落雁峰、松桧峰). On the way up, we made a slight detour to check out the most dangerous scenic spot—Long Sky-Walk (长空栈道). We proceeded into the first part, but stop at the temple on the cliff. After that it would have been going down an iron-chain path with drops of more than 2,000 meters. In that Taoist temple, we chatted with a friendly priest who has lived on the South Peak temple for more than 50 years. After taking photos with the priest, we returned to the path that led to the summit of Huashan—2160m. From there we went to the West Peak.
The West Peak (莲花峰) looks most spectacular. The very top looks like a lotus flower, hence the other name for the peak, Lotus Flower Peak. Its east side is a perpendicular cliff, while the west and north sides are also steep and sheer. On a clear day, we could see the expansive countryside 2,000 meters below. Since it was misty when we arrived, we could only see the peak appearing and disappearing in the mist. The path that leads up to the summit at the Star Picking Terrace (摘星台) looks like a dorsal fin if we imagine the West Peak to be a giant fish (people in China say it resembles the back of a green dragon). Even though it’s extremely dangerous on either side, the well-cut path and secure chains made the journey less frightening.
So we completed the four-peak cluster and headed down, passing by the Zhenyue Temple. We then did a quick loop to the North Peak (北峰). The coolest part about the North Peak is the giant rock that looks a lot like a fish (鱼嘴石). When I was there, a person had set up a souvenir stand in the mouth! After another full day of climbing (8 hours), we descended the mountain in 10 minutes via the cable car. Before getting into the cable car, I threw away my drenched, dirt- and rust-stained gloves. They were the best-spent 1-kuai ever since I could not have climbed those steep sections, such as the Cloud Ladder and Thousand Foot Precipice, without them.
I now take pride in having climbed Huashan, the most difficult mountain to climb in China, and I truly appreciate the sacrifices people made in order to allow us to enjoy the beauty of Huashan today. What an unforgettable journey!
After descending from Huashan we rode back into town, picked up our stored luggage, and hopped onto a bus heading back to Xi’an immediately. We checked into the hotel and then had our first satisfying meal in three days. By evening, all of us had sore legs, but the journey was definitely worth the pain.
After meeting other EAP’ers early in the morning at the train station, our group, now about 30-people strong, headed to Emperor Qin’s Mausoleum where the terracotta soldiers (兵马俑) were discovered in 1974. I still remember this place clearly from my trip to Xi’an back in 1986; however, this tourist spot has changed lots since then. Outside the museum, hundreds of vendors have put up tents to sell an array of souvenirs. Inside, there now three exhibit halls (there was only one 15 years ago) with a greatly expanded collection of terracotta warrior and horses. These figures are amazing to see. They’re so lifelike that you can learn about their personality through their facial expressions and gestures. Each figure is crafted with individuality, previously fully painted and outfitted. While walking around the exhibit halls, I meet some Michiganders, UM alums! Go BLUE!
After the visit to the mausoleum, we headed to downtown Xi’an, the Muslim district. We visited a large mosque (清真寺) that can accommodate 1,000 men for prayer (only men are allow into the main hall). Then it was shopping and bargaining time at the “antique” market. My cool finds includes some “ancient” Chinese locks in the design of turtle, dragon, and fish (all considered to be auspicious).
After dinner, we explored the modern shopping district in Xi’an, pretty similar to any other city. At the end of the day, I was completely sore.
Saturday, April 6, 2002
Another packed day! First we headed to Big Goose Tower (大雁塔). It’s got a funny name but this is where important Buddhist scrolls brought back from India were stored for a long time. It’s an important place to visit for Buddhists. Later in the morning, we went to Shaanxi History Museum (陕西历史博物馆). There, I saw an impressive display of artifacts, including lots of national treasures.
After lunch and a much-needed nap, we walked to Stele Garden (碑林). This Garden holds an impressive collection of more than 3,000 stone tablets with historical records, literature, calligraphy, and art works. I got to see and touch works that I learned about in calligraphy class, and also see lots of famous artifacts. There I bought a rubbing from a beautiful work by the most famous calligrapher, Wang Xizhi (王羲之的兰亭序). It was a very meaningful visit. Then walking towards downtown, we walked though the culture street, where lots of shops sell brushes and artworks. We then arrived at the Central South Gate of the Xi’an’s City Wall. The wall is most impressive since it’s about 15 meters above the ground and 15 meters wide. It encloses perhaps 4 square miles. However, this wall is only about 500 years old, not the earliest city wall in Chang’an (former name for Xi’an). I climbed up to the wall (it extended “infinitely” into the horizon in both directions) and enjoyed the view of the city from there. People could rent bikes or ride a golf cart all the way around town on the wall. A local was saying how his school held running competitions on top of the wall when he was young. The South Gate compound also has a drawbridge (a canal surrounds the city wall), making the city wall look like a giant castle.
To end the exhausting day, most of the students decided to splurge on a dumpling banquet (饺子宴) at the famous DeFaChang Restaurant (德发长). For 100-kuai, we got to have delicious appetizers (including a yummy asparagus and mini “Big Goose Tower” made with lotus bean paste), 16 exquisite dumplings (they came in all shapes and flavors, including my favorite walnut dumpling, duck, monkey-head-shaped…), tiny lucky soup dumplings, and then all-you-can-eat regular dumplings. The meal was a unique experience that I recommended highly to anyone visiting Xi’an.
I began my day early with a visit to a UM friend’s home. I enjoyed his parent’s hospitality and got the local perspective on Xi’an. They cooked me excellent homemade dumpling too!
Afterwards, I headed back to town to visit the Bell Tower (of course, I must visit that J). The visit was slightly disappointing since the bell is just a replica and the museum exhibits were poorly done. However, standing in the middle of the city and looking down in all directions made the climb worthwhile.
In the afternoon, we bused to the train station and headed home on another overnight train. It was sad leaving Xi’an since I enjoyed the trip so much; however, it was a good feeling heading back to Beijing to relax from the week of intense travels.
[1] During the rule of Qinshihuang (秦始皇), there was girl of 14 named Yujiang (玉姜), who was chosen for burial in Qinshihuang’s tomb at the time of his death (210 B.C.). The girl learned of this dubious “honor” and escaped with six other maids from the palace. They crossed forests and mountains on foot until they reached Huashan, where they hid themselves in a cave. They ate fruit and pin nuts, and drank stream water. After many years, green hair grew all over Yujiang’s body. People who saw her from a distance called her the green-haired girl. (All notes are from Mount Huanshan by Foreign Languages Press, Beijing.)
[2] This huge overhanging stone was very cool since you could hear water flowing “through it”. Actually, the sound is reflected sound of steam water from far away.
[3] Every major mountain in China has a Flying Rock. They all have legends about how the rock got to the top of the mountain.
[4] The purpose of this part is not to scary away timid travelers. There is actually a legend behind it. A Taoist priest led two disciples up the mountain to build paths and caves for other Taoists. The disciples wanted to rest after each project, but the priest would always push them on. After completing 71 caves, the disciples were extremely angry with the priest that they decided to kill him and return home. When they were working on the next cave, they released the rope from which their master hung, so he plummeted to his death, or so they thought. On their way back down their mountain, they saw their master alive and well. The master instructed them on dedication and perseverance. They two disciples were deeply moved and they decided to change their ways. So this point just represents where the disciples changed their point of view.
[5] The Middle Peak is also called the Jade Maiden Peak (玉女峰). This name comes from a legend about Xiao Shi (萧史) who lived during the Spring and Autumn Period (春秋时代770-475 B.C.). He was extremely skilled at the flute. One day King Qin Mou invited Xiao Shi to his palace to play for him. Xiao Shi’s music was so beautiful that the dragon and phoenix carvings on the pillars and beams of the palace came to life and danced to the rhythm of the music. The king was so delight that he awarded Xiao Shi with the hand of his daughter, Princess Nongyu (弄玉). The couple then decided to move to Huashan since it was more peaceful and beautiful. Here, Xiao Shi continued to play his flute and the dragons and phoenixes came to listen to him. These creatures then carried Xiao Shi and Princess Nongyu up to the Jade Maiden Peak.
