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Recent Cars Sold

Updated 7/23/16

National Nostalgic Nova Member
Article in September, 1998, Nova Times, Page 16


1964 Chevrolet novas are my favorite. My first nova was a 63 silver 4 dr. had 38,000 original miles. My brother wrecked it and it went to the junk yard. We broke out the windows and smashed it. Now I know better. #2 was 64 blue 4 dr. Sold it when I moved. #3 was 69 2 dr. blue. 307 ran okay. I wish I still had it.

All my Nova's were sold to pay child support, leaving me the 1978 Mazda GLC. I would have liked to be able to sell them on E-Bay, but was unable to. I appreciate all the fanatics checking out my garage. I would like to hear from Nova lovers and steam engine enthusiasts. Please write. If any viewers are struggling with issues, get professional help. Keep trusting in our Lord Jesus Christ. He will help you make it through your struggles and trials.



Click to view 1964 documents:

Original car shipping document

New vehicle inspection report

Car Papers

Bumper guard

Exhaust

Motor noise

Viewers vote

Bro`s 69 Road Runner drag car

NEW-Original paper found under seat

64 Chevy pickup

First car

Cost to install a $50 used motor (Word document download)





Tan (Desert Beige) 4-door


Sanderson Headers
New aluminum radiator
My Three Beautiful Children

Found this Tan car sitting under pine trees looking bad. Put battery, gas, and air and drove it home. Bought from original lady owner. I installed a 58-62 283 block, bored .030 over, Crane 327/350 cam, Z28 valve springs,new valves and guides, Crane roller tip rocker arms, Edelbrock Performer with Carter 4 bbl.,Moroso 8 quart Chevy II pan with long pickup. Needed bigger radiator and fan shroud. Ordered 64 w/ac radiator and it wasn't a cross flow design. Took brand new radiator to shop and had top inlet moved to left side. Made my own radiator to front spacer. Body work started but not finished. Worked on drive train. Daily driver when not disassembled.

Sanderson headers went on in one and a half hours with no problem. Passenger side I was worried about only had 3-1/2" of clearance. Took out center spark plug and it dropped right in. Drivers side was almost touching as nameplate was right next to shock tower. It's a better fit than I expected. I spent hours in PAW catalog trying to read numbered footnotes to see if Hooker headers would fit. Lots of room to get at plugs. I borrowed a wire welder from work and welded my exhaust. The drivers side from the header flange to bottom of 2-1/4" 90 was 5 inches. Then 6" towards the rear and offset down to get by transmission linkage and frame. Passenger side kicked to right at collector then back. From flange to bottom of 90 was about 3-1/2". It runs right next to starter with bottom elevation the same. Went back 6" then offset down 2" to clear frame. 90's were made from sectioned tubing with 10 degrees working out well. I kept the pipes as high as possible to avoid steering linkage. I finally went to an exhaust shop and had them install Flowmasters with 2-1/4" tubing that exits behind the rear tires. They sounded better than I thought they would, and it helped my low end torque. The shop used my pipes I had made from the header collectors as they couldn't bend any that close. Bought a bumper with bumper guard for when I finish the body work. Installed a HEI distributor, used a hammer to get clearance on firewall. Went to junkyard to get motorhome transmission and ended up buying a set of Taurus electric front seats for the nova. Lumbar supports, tan color matches interior, very comfortable. The rear seat needed to be cut down to go around wheelwells. Needed new carpet!


Blue 2-door


Blue with white top. Original 194 ci. 6 cylinder with powerglide. Slight 1/4 panel work and left tie rod needed. Has power steering. Underneath trunk mat there is a 1965 newspaper still in good condition. Seats have been recovered.

Blue '63 wagon


Answered an ad, went and bought it. Drove 2 blocks away and fuel pump goes out, battery dead. Seller drives by with cash in pocket then sells me jumper cables for $5. I brought 4 tires on rims with me and then found out new wagon has 4 lugs. Had to change tires on rims. Drove it home on the interstate at 70 mph. Considered installing a 383 stroker motor in it. Started on spongy brakes and found the flex rubber hoses had swelled shut. Ordered new hoses from Modern Chevrolet to replace. Found a broken passenger window, I was bummed out. Spent a hour cleaning pine straw and leaves out of cowl vent. Is there an easier way?

Black '64 wagon


Saw driving down a road, went back, left message and bought it, 5 bolt rims. Older brother said he would build a narrowed rear end with a 4 link setup for me. All-out drag car someday?

Green 4-door


Located when bought tan nova. This original car had the most options. Radio, remote outside mirror, Bumper guards plus extra trim pieces off another car. Also tinted windshield, power steering. Donated seats and carpet to tan nova. Reinstalled the head I had rebuilt myself with parts left over from tan nova. Couldn`t get it to fire, tried 3 different coils, ended up being a film on new points from sitting for over a year. It was nice having spare parts sitting in the yard for when I need something in a hurry.

Burgundy '77 Concours

future fanatic

250 ci. 6 cyl.,ac,pb,ps, needed front grill and headlight filler from hitting a deer,changed water pump. Had trouble getting correct valve cover gasket. $300.00, put a battery in it, primed it and it started and I drove it on the car ramps to tow it home. I bought and installed a hood, left fender, ac condenser, hood hinges, grill and parking lamps, front bumper. I replaced the radiator. 4 new tires. Body parts were $210, tires $154, radiator $93,water pump $25. Cruising for $782.00. Had to order upper radiator hose. Replaced brake master cylinder. Replaced front disc brake pads, then found leaking water pump. I made my own one man brake bleeder, a mason jar with aquarium tubing thru lid to a plastic 1/4 inch check valve from farm store for sprayers, then taped a rubber fuel hose that fits over brake bleeder screw. Can sit and pump pedal until see no air in clear hose. Didn't spend over 6 dollars for setup and have used it on all my vehicles. Backed into a fence pole and tore off the passenger chrome trim around rear wheel well. The 6 cylinder blew a head gasket so I installed a 350 small block I had rebuilt. It made alot of difference on performance. I had to adapt a fan shroud I had laying around and will see if it will work in hot weather at idle. Only trouble I had was the motor mount holes didn't line up on the frame. Bought a new torque converter while I had it apart. Try www.northernautoparts.com for the complete engine kit. It comes with pistons,rings,main-rod-cam bearings, gasket set, oil pump, cam shaft, lifters, freeze plugs, timing gear and chain for $154.99. I pressed the piston pins myself to install the new pistons.
MAZDA COMPLETE AC SYSTEM

I have been working on my 1978 Mazda GLC, trying to make it a reliable ride around town. It kept dying about once every two weeks. An electric fuel pump had been installed and gas tank flushed out. I moved the elec. pump from the engine compartment to the rear wheel well, so it would push fuel, instead of pulling it. I added a $5 12v relay to pull the pump in, and that seemed to help the stalling problem. I believe it was getting hot, pulling too many amps and shutting off. I added a fuel pressure gauge so I could see if it was going to quit. I ordered a new aluminum radiator from Ebay, $85 with a 12" fan. It lowered the coolant temp about 20 degrees. I added a temperature gauge to monitor it. I changed the alternator, voltage regulator, points, plug wires, dist. cap, oil/filter. The tank is rusty again, I change the filter about every 2 months. I made a 2 filter setup, so I won't be stranded again. I ordered a complete Mazda Air Conditioning system from Ebay, for $215 plus $35 shipping. It can be seen at my Mazda link below. I made my own compressor mounting bracket, and condensor mounts. I used the original lines, bending them to fit. I had to extend one line. I took it to a shop, it cost $85 to add freon, it uses the new R134a, had no leaks. It blows cold, between 42-50. I got a new Tahoe blower motor for $15, plus shipping from Ebay, made my own blower housing, plenty of air. I added a clutch cycling switch (9.95 plus shipping)to turn off the compressor when too cold. Each component-compressor/condensor fan/blower fan, I added a fuse/toggle switch/relay, with 10 gauge wire, so no problems. The ac kit came with two Mazda relays. Autozone has 30 amp relays. I got a 50 1/2" v-belt to run the compressor/smog pump/fan. I know the compressor takes a 4 groove belt, but it works. It squawks once in awhile under hard acceleration. Then the car wouldn't stay running at stoplights. I had to take it to a shop, he set new points/dwell/timing, adjusted valve lash, and the carb. It ran better, still no power. He had told me about running a bread tie wire down the carb jets, so I did and immediately it ran better, but still not right. He had found a blown diaphragm inside a pollution control, causing a major vacuum leak. I took it back, he set the timing way up, and now it is running the best it ever has. The temperature went up 10 degrees, due to the advanced timing, but it idles at stop lights, with the AC on, so it will have to do. It gets to about 185, so not too bad, we have been having over 100 degree weather the past two weeks. In 2002, I has replaced the shocks/struts, tires, oil in engine, tranny and rear end. Brakes front and rear. Also the clutch and throw out bearing, rear main seal. Just about everything has been replaced, so hopeffuly I can drive around town with no worries. I enjoy tinkering around, especially fabricating stuff. I had an underdash AC unit with 3 speed fan, I was using it for AC, I had a cooler in back, with a 12v boat bilge pump. I ran two lines to the unit, put ice in and had ac cooling, circulating ice water thru the lines. It was working good, but when I saw the low price for the complete Mazda AC system, I just had to buy it. Just a compressor costs over $200 to replace. I got everything I needed for a little more. Since I don't own any Nova's anymore, I have to work on something. Most people wouldn't want the evaporator box, sitting on the front seat floor, but there is still room for a passenger. I maybe could have cut the original heater box and got everything up in there, but the fan was so weak, it wouldn't have worked very well. So this is true hotrodding, using what you have, and making it work. I spent alot of hours planning, fabricating, trial fits, etc. but it was worth it. One item I missed on Ebay, was a used sailboat 12v dc switch panel. It had 10 toggle switches, fuses holders, indicator lights, the parts alone would cost $250, I know , I have been buying them. It went for $20.50, I had bid $20, I was sad. So look around on Ebay for stuff to work with and don't be afraid to adapt things to work. I put a new 12v dc speed control on the blower motor, Ebay-$9.50. I tried to find one at Grainger's, all over the web, and had it shipped straight from China, works good.

The Mazda system is for a 2000 Mazda Protege, cooling my 1978 Mazda GLC.

Thank you Scott Windle

shield shield This Nova Webring site is owned by
Dennis Gibbs.

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"Tweety" 1978 Mazda GLC

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64 Nova Wagon pro street project

 Fiberglass cowl hoods, fenders, bumpers 62-65 Chevy nova


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