Caracas (top)
Situated
in a picturesque valley on the north coast, surrounded by hills and densely
forested mountain slopes, Venezuela's capital is a bustling, sprawling, and
heavily populated metropolis of nearly 5 million inhabitants, set in the shadow
of a great wilderness. Fast, progressive and cosmopolitan, the city is now retaining
little of the character of its colonial roots: its colonial district dates back
to the 16th Century. While it boasts some of the most impressive modern architecture
in South America, Caracas is also home to a vast expanse of ranchos -sprawling
slums of tin sheds and cardboard boxes covering the surrounding hills that are
the product of the uncontrolled surge of postwar immigration-. The suburbs are
also filled with attractions: El Hatillo, to the south, is rich in colonial
architecture, while to the North of Caracas are postcard perfect beaches thick
with tanned skin and Caribbean sun. Sights include Plaza Bolívar, with
its 17th-century Cathedral; the Casa Natal de Bolívar, birthplace of
Simón Bolívar; Santa Capilla, a 19th-century neo-Gothic church
modeled on Paris's Sainte Chapelle; the monumental Palacio de Miraflores, palace
of former leader Joaquín Crespo; the sacred Panteón Nacional,
where many eminent Venezuelans are interred; the Petare district, which has
retained its historic colonial character; and the modern, bustling Parque Central,
which provides a taste of modern Caracas. Its museums house some of South America's
greatest works of art, particularly modern.
Most of the budget hotel accommodations are in the less salubrious suburbs,
which are not always safe, especially at night. The best is probably Sabana
Grande. Be sure to always keep your wits about you, as mugging and petty theft
have become rife in recent years.
Nightlife tends to be centered on the districts of Las Mercedes, El Rosal, La
Floresta and La Castellana. El Ávila
National Park, which looms over Caracas, is
probably a good place to start; head for Guatopo, Terepaima and San Esteban
for less developed trails.
Colonia Tovar
(top)
Lost amid the rolling forests of the Cordillera de la Costa, some 60km (37mi)
West of Caracas, is the unusual mountain town of Colonia Tovar, founded in 1843
by a group of German settlers. The town effectively shielded itself from any
outside contact for almost a century. A lack of roads restricted access, and
rigid social mores meant that the inhabitants remained exclusively tied to their
own culture (marriage was prohibited unless to another member of the colony).
Only in the 1940s was the Spanish language introduced; a serviceable road wasn't
built until 1963. Today, Colonia Tovar is a lovely town of produce markets and
arts-and-craft stores and is still unmistakably German. Much of the original
architecture remains, and foods, such as bread and sausage, continue to be made
according to hoary German recipes.
Amazon and Jungle (top)
Venezuela's 40-odd national parks provide a great range of treks, from well-signposted
jaunts to jungle paths that should not be attempted without a machete and some
local knowledge. Like its name implies, the Amazonas is quite simply Venezuela's
own stretch of Amazonian rain forest. The state is one the country's largest
and certainly the most remote. It is home to many indigenous peoples, including
the "Yanomami" -one of the most threatened and fragile cultures in
the world-. From the city of Ayacucho you can arrange for guided tours of the
region, which abounds in flora, fauna, and "cerros" -the jungle's
equivalent of the tepuis-. The Amazonas region in the South of the country is
thick with tropical rain forest, crisscrossed by rivers. Tours up the Orinoco,
Sipapo or Autana rivers and deep into the Venezuelan Amazon can be arranged
from the hot but pleasant town of Puerto Ayacucho.
The Guayana Highlands
(top)
The
Guayana Highlands lie to the South of the Orinoco River (Southeast of Venezuela)
and constitute half the land area of the country. Their main value is as a source
of gold and diamonds. The Orinoco and its delta have been developed as major
trade centers. Santa Elena, Guri Dam (a hydroelectric complex supplying electricity
to most of Venezuela) and Danto Falls are all worth a visit. Santa Elena de
Uairén is a rugged frontier town, which holds a Fiesta in August. Trips
can be arranged to the diamond mines at Los Caribes. In Icaban after a heavy
rainfall it is common to see children searching the slopes for gold nuggets
washed down from the slopes. Though many people have never heard of the area,
many have seen photos of its most famous landmark -Angel Falls- the world's
highest and most vertiginous waterfall. The falls, however, are just one of
many distinctive features in the area, which is also known for the Orinoco river
and also its "Tepuis".
The third-longest river in South America, the Orinoco covers about 2150km (1336mi),
from its source near the Brazilian border in the South of the country to its
wide, flooded delta on the Northeast coast. The myriad-forested islands that
make up the delta are home to the Warao people, who live on the riverbanks in
houses on stilts, travel mostly by canoe and earn their livelihood from fishing.
At the reaches of the Lower Orinoco lies the site of Ciudad Bolívar (formerly
Angostura), a hot city that boasts a glorious history and still retains much
of its colonial charm. It was here that Simón Bolívar set up his
base for the final stage of the War of Independence, and the town became the
provisional capital of the country prior to liberation from the Spanish.
Most visitors to Ciudad Bolívar will be en route to Canaima
(is the largest and most famous park in Venezuela and 6th largest in the world,
covering 7,410,000 acres (3 million hectares), the spectacular town located
on the Río Carrao just below the stretch of river with a chain of seven
magnificent waterfalls. Trips can be arranged which take in the waterfalls and
other nearby attractions, including many rare plants -Canaima has over 500 species
of orchid alone-. Overnight accommodation is available on the shores of the
lagoon. Nearby, on a tributary, is Salto
Angel (Angel Falls), with an uninterrupted drop
of 979m (3212ft) -16 times the height of Niagara Falls-. Continuing southeast
brings you to the fascinating landscape of the Gran Sabana National Reserve
is the largest of the Venezuelan plateau and has an extraordinary array of wildlife,
with its "Tepuis" (flat-topped mountains) and "Simas" ('sink-holes'
of jungle up to 350m/1148ft wide, surrounded by sheer cliffs). Anyone who has
ever seen a tepuy rising above Venezuela's Gran Sabana can testify that there's
nothing really like it, anywhere. Straddling the borders of Venezuela, Guyana
and Brazil is a 280 sq km (109 sq mi) plateau called Mount Roraima, suggested
as the site of Conan Doyle's "The Lost World" (in the 19th Century),
can be climbed on foot. A fortnight's supplies and full camping equipment should
be taken as the trip can take up to two weeks. The nearest village to the mountain
is Peraitepin.
Roraima
has become increasingly popular with travelers interested in trekking or botany.
Though the trek involves discomforting amounts of rain, the climb is fascinating
and the moonscape scenery at the top of the "mesa" is a science-fiction
dream of blackened rock, pink beaches and bewildering plant life.
One of the most impressive and photogenic waterfalls in La Gran Sabana is Salto
Aponguao. However, it's rather difficult to reach unless you're prepared to
expend a little time and energy. One way to see it is to leave the highway,
then travel about 40km (25mi) on an unpaved road before coming to the Indian
hamlet of Iboribó. The next step is to pay one of the locals to take
you by "curiara" (dugout canoe) across the Río Aponguao, from
where it's a half-hour trek to the falls. Another possibility is to arrange
for a boat to take you directly there, and then return on foot. Either way,
the 105m (344ft) Salto is spectacular. A well-marked path leads to the foot
of the falls, where you can bathe and swim in one of the natural pools. And
nearby is an idyllic camping spot with excellent views of both the falls and
the surrounding countryside. Other national parks in Venezuela are to be found
in Bolívar State and the Amazonas Federal Territory, for example, El
Cocuy and Autana.
The Llanos
(top)
This is
an expansive, sparsely populated area of grassland east of the Cordillera de
Mérida and North of the Orinoco, reaching up to the North coast. The
area is the heart of the Venezuelan cattle country and the landscape is flat
and only varied here and there by slight outcrops of land. Numerous slow-running
rivers, forested along their banks, vein it. The swamps are the home of egrets,
parrots, alligators and monkeys. The equestrian skills of the plainsmen can
be seen at many rodeos throughout the Llanos, as well as exhibitions of cattle
roping and the Joropo, Venezuela's national dance.
Coro
(top)
On the Caribbean coast at the base of the Península
de Paraguaná, Coro
is a pleasant, peaceful, cultured town with some of the best colonial architecture
in Venezuela. Founded in 1527, it was one of the earliest colonial settlements
on the continent, but most of the interesting architecture dates from the 18th
century, when Coro flourished as a contraband center trading with the islands
of Curaçao and Bonaire. The historic town center was declared a national
monument in the 1950s and a number of buildings have been restored. The cobble-stoned
Calle Zamora is the most beautiful colonial street, with spectacular old mansions.
Other attractions include the Catedral and the Museo de Arte de Coro.
Isla Magarita
(top)
For
many Venezuelans, the ultimate vacation home is a place on the beach on Isla
de Margarita. The island sits about 40km (25 mi) off the mainland and has a
healthy population of about 300,000. Like the nearby islands of Bonaire and
Curaçao, Isla de Margarita enjoys a dry, desert climate. The capital
city of Porlamar offers just about every modern convenience.
The North Coast
(top)
Venezuela's North Coast is where the nation's famous beaches reach their alluring
heights: this is the venezuelan destination for the sun wore-shippers and water
lovers. The 2,813 km (1,747.917 mi) of Caribbean coastline represents the major
tourist destination in the country. The area has numerous excellent beaches
and resorts ranging from the comparatively luxurious to the unashamedly opulent,
which stretch along the coastline. To the North of Maiquetía are the
idyllic islands of the National Park Los
Roques, with its pristine clear waters, scuba
diving among the coral reefs. Los Roques are unique among Venezuela's Caribbean
islands, with small rustic "posadas" and true nature tourism. These
islands are located 145 km (90 mi) North of Caracas International Airport, about
35 minutes by small private & scheduled aircraft or 8-10 hours by sailboat
from the Caraballeda or Puerto Viejo Marinas. It covers 546,166 acres (221,026
hectares) of hundreds of small flat islands with white sand, mangroves and surrounded
by turquoise water for windsurfing & the best snorkeling, diving, and bone
fishing in the Caribbean. The major island called Gran
Roque has a small airstrip, fishing village,
dive shop and several deluxe to economical bed and breakfast style accommodations.
There are several yachts and sailboats for charter. Entrance fee is approx.
$ 10 U.S. per person.
National Park Henry Pittier,
in Aragua State, is located 137 km (85 mi) West of Caracas, about 2 hours by
car. It covers 266,266 acres (107,755 hectares) of mountainous rain forest and
was named after the famous Swiss botanist who came to this area in 1913 and
identified over 29,000 plants. Bird watchers and naturalists from all over the
world have helped to identify over 400 species of birds within this park. The
modern highway from Caracas enables visitors to visit this area quickly and
easily. There are nearby accommodations in Maracay or the coastal towns of Choroní
and Puerto Colombia. The
coastal resorts of Ocumare de la Costa
and Cata
can be reached by way of the 1130m (3710ft) Portachuelo Pass through the central
highlands. The coastline is dotted with fine beaches and islands, many inhabited
only by flamingoes and scarlet ibis. Most can be reached by hired boat. Along
the coast is one of Venezuela's most treasured seashores, National
Park Morrocoy, in Falcon State, is located 250
km (155 mi) West of Caracas, about 4 hours by car. It covers 79,262 acres (32,090
hectares), and consists of a large bay with mangroves, canals and numerous fine
coral reefs ideal for scuba diving, snorkeling and fishing; excellent for water-skiing
and bird watching. Brown boobies, scarlet ibis, pelicans and frigate birds are
plentiful in this area. This park also has white palm lined beaches and small
islands called cayos, surrounded by turquoise water and coral reefs that are
perfect for snorkeling and diving. From the towns of Chichiriviche
or Tucacas,
you can hire local boats to tour this area and drop you off on one of the 7
islands just 15-20 minutes offshore.
Palma Sola is also popular. Ferries run from La Vela de Coro and Punto Fijo
to the islands of Aruba and Curaçao. Journeys take about four hours and
delays are to be expected. Puerto la Cruz
is a popular coastal resort with bars and restaurants and good beaches. It is
also a good center for traveling to remoter beaches. There is the Morro marina
development in the Lecherías area adjacent to Puerto la Cruz, and the
attractive town of Pueblo Viejo with 'old' Caribbean architecture and a Venetian
lagoon layout -boats are the only means of transport-. The attractiveness of
the Puerto la Cruz area means that there has been an increase of foreign investment
here in recent years.
National Park Mochima,
in Sucre State, is located 14 miles -22 km West of Cumaná- (30 minutes
by car) and 34 miles -55 km- (45 minutes East of Puerto La Cruz). It covers
234,489 acres (94,935 hectares) of semi-tropical coastal mountains and many
secluded small bays, with semi-arid islands and mangroves. This park is perfect
for yachtsmen who like to sail, snorkel, dive or water-ski. From either city,
you can drive to Playa Arapito
or Playa Colorada,
which have reddish colored sand, palm trees, calm waters, restaurants, and are
about a 20 minute drive east from Puerto La Cruz. From either beach, you can
take a local boat to the white beaches of Isla Arapo or Arapito, where you can
snorkel or have a typical seafood lunch.
The Andes
(top)
The
verdant mountains of the Sierra Nevada de
Mérida are the northernmost tip of the
Andes range, and lie in the northwestern reaches of Venezuela. Dotted with small
villages whose inhabitants still follow a traditional lifestyle, the mountain
also sports trails that reward the more adventurous and energetic traveler with
stunning views of the snowcapped, tall, striking, and plentiful peaks. The pleasant,
friendly old and poetical city of Mérida, nestled in the mountains just
12km (7mi) from the country's highest peak, Pico
Bolívar, is one of Venezuela's most popular
tourist destinations, and a university town with clean air and a bohemian culture.
The school here is the second oldest in South America. People don't usually
think of Venezuela when they think of the Andes, but the mountains sweep to
the East at their northern end, penetrating well into western Venezuela. The
peaks here offer a full range of adventure and sporting options. There are actually
two ranges of the Andes in the region.
The Cordillera de Mérida
has the only peak in the country with a permanent snowline. Frosty plateau and
lofty summits characterize the landscape and many cities have grown up at the
foot of the mountains, combining tradition with modern ways of life as well
as diversified rural and urban scenery. The scenery in this area is extremely
varied - lagoons, mountains, rivers, beaches, ancient villages, historical cities,
oil camps, sand dunes and Indian lake dwellings on stilts-.
Mérida is today a city of wide modern avenues linking mainly large-scale
20th-century developments, although, wherever possible, relics of the colonial
past have been allowed to stand. A university town and tourist center, it nestles
in the Sierra Nevada, overshadowed by Bolívar Peak (5007m/15,260ft) and
Mirror Peak (where the world's highest cable car climbs to an altitude of 4675m/14,250ft).
Mérida has modern and colonial art museums and much more worth seeing,
including the Valle Grande,
the Flower Clock, Los Chorros de Milla,
the lagoons of Mucubají, Los Anteojos,
Tabay, Los Patos, Say-say and the famous Black
Lagoon (Laguna Negra). A mountain railway runs
from the town to Pico Espejo. The view from the summit looks over the highest
peaks of the Cordillera and the Llanos. In Mérida we can also arrange
trips to Los Nevados,
the highest village in the mountains. Again, this is only recommended for the
hardy. Other excursions from Mérida include San
Javier del Valle, a relaxing mountain retreat,
and Jají,
which has some fine examples of colonial architecture.
