Kugenuma Beach surf check

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The Shonan Coast is arguably Japan's home of surfing (although major contests are usually run in Chiba). It runs from Kamakura in the East along to Atami in the West, and includes reefbreaks, beachbreaks and rivermouths. Kugenuma Beach, the most popular of all the spots, is around 1 hour south-west of Tokyo by train, just south of Fujisawa.

Being as accessible as it is, and so close to around 20 million people, the beaches obviously get crowded. However those of you that can surf early, during the week or in the winter will find that it is no worse than any regular US or Aussie surf spot. You'll find that the waves are generally a bit on the slow side, and they rarely get above head high. The water seems to be pretty dirty too. However, the locals are mellow and there are an amazing number of off shore or glassy days, with really nice shaped waves to be had.

If you're coming from Tokyo by train get yourself to Fujisawa first and change onto the Odakyu line in the direction of Enoshima (alternatively take the Odakyu direct from Shinjuku). The stop to get off at is Kugenuma Kaigan, which is only about 5 mins walk from the clubhouse and the beach. The whole trip should take 1 hour and cost under 1000 yen. You can take a surfboard up to 2m onto the train as long as the fins are covered and it's in a bag. At the clubhouse there are toilets and lockers, although a lot of people just dump their stuff on the beach. Incredibly it's almost always still there when they get back, too. If you're driving it's a similar routine. Head to Fujisawa and then down to Enoshima, or for a more scenic route head for Kamakura and then follow the coast road. The parking along the beach is around 2000yen for one day. In the summer they are open from 06:00 to 20:00 but in winter they close around 17:00.

Kugenuma is a black sand beach break, with left and right peaks along the length of the beach. It breaks from 1ft to 10ft, but tends to close out when it gets much overhead. It is a very mellow wave, due to the shallowness of the Sagami Bay, and so is perfect for beginners and longboarders. There aren't really any fierce rips (apart from typhoon days) and no underwater hazards. The most dangerous thing will be other surfers (of whom there are many) and getting some sinister damage from all the dioxins and heavy metals in the water.

As almost everywhere else Kugenuma is best on a low incoming tide. On small days it doesn't really work at high tide, just becoming a shore dump, but on bigger days it is sometimes better at high tide. Northerly wind is off shore, and any other direction of wind is usually a pain as the beach is so open. Unless there is a prevailing wind it is generally off shore or glassy in the morning until around 09:30 when it swings on shore. We sometimes get an evening glass off.

An alternative to the crowds of Kugenuma is to try Shichirigahama. This spot is on the other (East) side of Enoshima island and breaks over reef and sand. It doesn't really work under waist high, but on decent swells and lowish tide it is often better than the beach breaks, and not as crowded. If you are taking the train, change at Fujisawa onto the Enoden line from the Odakyu building opposite the station, and get off at Kamakura Koukou Mae station. There are no lockers or toilets.

My personal opinion is that Kugenuma is most fun on a longboard. It is a slow, slack wave, and at least 50% of the other surfers are using bigger boards. Many locals ride 9'6" plus boards and focus on nose-riding/board walking. On good days and in nice conditions a short board is fun, especially if you are on the lighter side. Another alternative (especially if you are taking the train) is a boogie board. In July and August large sections of the beach are reserved for boogers and swimmers and this spot is often the best, especially in typhoon swells.

On the rubber front, you'll need a full suit (5/3mm) and booties in the winter months. Jan and Feb are pretty bitter (basically you should try the snowboarding fields instead) but it warms up amazingly fast. I wear shorts from late-June through to mid-September, some people preferring a 2mm shirt to keep off the chill.