THIRD TIME’S THE CHARM
“You’d
taken a fall and missed the ground, and just kept on going…
It’s
not how you swim, it’s how you hold your breath
It’s
not about playing fair in this life,
It’s
more about cheating death.
If you
don’t like getting old,
You’ll
hate the other choice, I’m told
Cause
it’s a little too late to die young”
From “Little Too Late”, by Nicki Bluhm and the Gramblers
https://soundcloud.com/nicki-bluhm/little-too-late/s-XMg3X
My new theme song!
My
latest obsession has been exploring Little Fall Creek, near Jones Gap State
Park in Greenville County, South Carolina.
The park features an extremely popular trail that leads to Fall Creek
Falls in a little over a mile. Along the
way, hikers have to rock hop a tributary – Little Fall Creek. During the winter months (when the leaves are
off the trees), observant hikers may spot the bottom of “Boone’s Falls” just a short distance upstream.
Darrin
accompanied me (and the dogs, Boone and Kona) on our first attempt at exploring
Little Fall Creek. On that occasion, we
had bushwhacked down to Little Fall Creek just upstream from what would become
known as Boone’s Falls. That adventure had nearly ended in
tragedy. Boone slipped near the brink of the falls and
went over the edge. Darrin and I made a
dangerous descent of the falls chasing him.
We eventually found him – alive and uninjured near the bottom of the
falls. He was in a precarious spot above
the final drop, but I was able to rescue him.
It
turns out that Little Fall Creek drops nearly 200’ at Boone’s Falls. However, it’s
not vertical drop – rather, it’s a long, sliding cascade.
Despite
the near-disaster, I still wanted to explore the creek further upstream. Based on the topo
map, I was pretty certain there were more undocumented waterfalls to be
discovered. A few weeks later, Jack and I
made an attempt. We started at Boone’s Falls and climbed upstream along the east side of the
creek. However, the rugged terrain and
danger presented by the falls forced us away from the stream. We ultimately ended up on a ridge of house-sized
boulders high above creek. At one point
I spotted a waterfall below, but we couldn’t find a safe route down to it.
Last
weekend we made a third attempt. Somehow
I was able to talk Jack into it despite our previous failure. Brenda also joined us, as she is typically
game for almost anything. I was a little
nervous before this hike. The rugged
cliffs and waterfalls in the area are certainly hazardous. I also realized that another failure would
likely be the last one. I was down to my
last strike with Little Fall Creek.
I
met Jack in Spartanburg, and we met Brenda at the Fall Creek Falls Trailhead in
Jones Gap State Park. We started our
hike an hour later than normal to compensate for the beginning of Daylight
Savings Time. It was a partly sunny day
that was just warm enough to make hiking uphill in long pants extremely
uncomfortable.
There
was one other car at the trailhead when we arrived. Brenda reported that four young women had
started up the trail a few minutes ahead of us.
Thanks to this information, Jack and I debated the merits of making a quick
visit to Fall Creek Falls before beginning our adventure. That temptation increased when we found a
jacket hanging from a tree beside the trail.
Apparently these girls were taking their clothes off on their way there.
Despite
this, we decided to skip it. I guess
that’s indicative of just how old we are!
Or deranged.
Given a choice between chasing girls to a waterfall or
crawling through mud, rhododendrons, and briars, we picked the bushwhacking.
We
rock hopped Little Fall Creek and climbed one of the steep, eroded sections of
the Fall Creek Falls Trail. We were
pretty much warmed up by the time we reached the crest of the ridge separating
Fall Creek and Little Fall Creek. At
that point we regrouped to begin the real adventure.
From
there, we left the trail and descended along a narrow, open ridge. My goal was follow the same route Darrin and
I had used a couple of months earlier.
However, I didn’t want to go anywhere near the top of “Boone’s Falls”. I wanted to
hit Little Fall Creek as far upstream as possible. Fortunately, after a short descent I spotted
a steep but passable route down to a small tributary. Getting to the bottom required some butt
sliding, but we were all expecting to get wet and muddy anyway.
The
tributary features a couple of rusty barrels from an old moonshine
operation. From there we climbed onto
the slope immediately to the north.
Along here we actually found some old flagging – it was so old, the
ribbons had faded from red or orange to a pale yellow. Old or not, the ribbons led us upstream,
below rugged cliffs but above the creek.
Before long we arrived at the base of the second waterfall on Little
Fall Creek (with “Boone’s Falls being the first, if
counting from downstream). Jack took
some photos of this one (http://www.flickr.com/photos/8146392@N05/sets/72157632976399144/),
but I decided to save my energy for the other waterfalls I expected to find
upstream.
Getting
upstream was a challenge. Sheer cliffs
meant that following the creek wasn’t an option. Instead, we backtracked until we found a
route around the cliffs above. We worked
up way up through breaks in those cliffs, scrambling and crawling under
rhododendron branches and briars. During
one stretch the jungle was so thick it was easier to belly crawl than it was to
walk. In another area, Jack actually
walked on top of the rhododendrons.
Avoiding
the cliffs meant that we had climbed well above where the waterfalls were. We worked our way back down slowly, butt-sliding under rhododendron tangles most of the
way. Somehow we came out exactly where
we wanted to. We were at the top of the
falls we’d left nearly an hour earlier.
During that hour, we traveled perhaps 50’.
It
may have been worth it. Jack got some
nice photos of this waterfall (#3), while I scouted ahead. Getting upstream from here was our next
challenge. Ultimately we all took
different routes. I used rhododendron
branches to pull myself up onto a sloping rock adjacent to the falls. Jack scrambled and chimneyed up a small tributary stream next to the main
creek. Brenda followed the west bank,
and we all regrouped at the base of waterfall #4.
This
one is quite tall, and nearly vertical.
Unfortunately there was a lot of deadfall and other debris at the base,
and the sun had just crested the ridge to the east, which mucked up our
photos. Still, it was a really cool spot
that has probably been enjoyed by very few people, if any. We didn’t see any sign that anybody had
preceded us here.
We
had lunch before we attempted to continue upstream. Massive boulders towered high above us, but
one route under a cliff looked marginally plausible. I tried to scramble and belly crawl up a wet
rock adjacent to the falls, below the cliff.
I made it a short distance before slipping back down. I tried again, and thought that I could
probably make it. But what would happen
if the route was a dead-end, or if Brenda couldn’t follow? Coming back down this would be unpleasant, if
not downright dangerous. We decided to
look for another option.
We
really didn’t want to return the way we’d come.
Crawling back uphill under all those rhododendrons and briar patches
wasn’t appealing. Plus, the topo map shows an old road crossing Little Fall Creek just
a short distance upstream. According to
the map, the road runs west to Fall Creek and a junction with the Hospital Rock
Trail. Brenda had verified the existence
of this road at its western end on an earlier hike. We were hopeful that the road would give us
an easy way out.
We
explored the base of the cliffs, looking for a way up. Brenda attempted one slope, only to slide
back down. We continued farther away
from the creek, and Jack found a possible escape route. The resulting scramble was exhausting, but
successful. We stumbled onto the old
road, tired but relieved. Now, if
everything went according to plan, we just had to follow the road to the
Hospital Rock Trail, which would take us down to Fall Creek Falls and on to the
parking area.
Despite
my fatigue, I wanted to follow the road back down to Little Fall Creek. Jack and Brenda agreed, and the diversion
only took a couple of minutes. We
reached the creek at a small cascade that Jack and Brenda are calling waterfall
#5. Normally this wouldn’t qualify as a
true waterfall, but it is pretty, and it was certainly hard to get to. Just above waterfall #5 is a small
overhanging cave. It looks a bit like a
miniature version of Hospital Rock. So, I
dubbed it Urgent Care Rock.
Jack
and Brenda were ready to call it a day, but it was still early. Plus, the topo map
suggested more waterfalls a short distance upstream. Somehow I was able to talk Jack and Brenda
into pushing on a little further.
We
crossed the creek and followed a primitive trail, which is thoroughly marked
with pink ribbons. The trail follows the
creek, dodging through rhododendron thickets.
A few minutes later we spotted waterfall #6 ahead. A side path took us to the base of this one,
which is a nice sliding 30’ cascade.
This one is quite pretty, but photography is awkward due to a fallen
tree right at the bottom of the falls. I
ended up crawling under the tree to get to a vantage point for photos.
Once
again I managed to convince Jack and Brenda to hike a little farther. We backtracked to the trail, and followed it
up and beyond waterfall #6. Once past
the falls we descended back down to the creek.
Easier hiking followed, and a few minutes later I heard Brenda
gasp. She had spotted waterfall #7 ahead
through the trees. It’s an impressive,
multi-level cascade. My guess is that it
drops more than 100’ over 5 or 6 tiers.
At one of the upper levels the creek splits into two channels that fall
separately over the same rock face.
We
hurried forward for a better look. We
reached the base of the falls, where we had a good view of the lower
portion. However, from that vantage it
was difficult to see the upper tiers.
From
here the ribbon trail splits. One route
climbs east, away from the creek. The
other crosses the stream and climbs the far hillside. I’m not sure where either of those trails lead. There could be
additional waterfalls upstream, though I think we found the majority of what
Little Fall Creek has to offer. There
are some residential areas farther up the mountain, so it could be that one or
both of the trails originates in that area.
It
was 3pm when we started back. Needless
to say, we were really hoping that the old road would take us out to the
Hospital Rock Trail. We followed the
ribbon trail back to the road, crossed Little Fall Creek one final time, and
began a stout climb to the northwest.
The ribbons continued along here, all the way to an unexpected
junction. The road split about 10
minutes after we left Little Fall Creek.
The map shows the right fork, which continues climbing steely to the
northwest. It doesn’t show the left
branch, which heads west and descends gradually. The ribbons follow the left fork.
After
a brief debate, we decided to go left.
It was heading in the correct direction, and the ribbons were probably
leading somewhere. Before long we
crested a ridge and found ourselves staring at Fall Creek Falls. Although there were trees in the way, the
view was dramatic. From our elevated
perspective, the falls looked much more dramatic than they do from the
base. It was at this point that I fully
realized just how big Fall Creek Falls is.
From the trail crossing at the base the waterfall looks much smaller
than it actually is. This is a great
vantage point, at least in the winter.
When the leaves are on the trees you probably can’t see much from there.
The
ribbons ended there. We descended a
steep, unmarked, but obvious trail. A
few minutes later we reached a junction with the Fall Creek Falls Trail. Somehow I completely failed to notice this
junction on my many previous visits. The
junction is at the top of the steep climb if you’re coming up from the base of
the falls. It is also quite close to
where we left the trail to explore Little Fall Creek earlier than morning.
From
there we headed back quickly, passing a regular parade of hikers heading in
both directions. All those people were a
little disorienting after a day of almost complete solitude.
I’ll
probably return to Little Fall Creek to make sure we didn’t miss anything
farther upstream. Next time though, I’m
taking that fast, easy trail that starts near Fall Creek Falls! Accessing the upper portion of Little Fall
Creek is actually pretty is via that route.
Sane hikers can visit the majority of Little Fall Creek’s best
features. The base of “Boone’s Falls” is an easy off-trail walk from the Fall Creek Falls
Trail. The waterfalls on the upper part
of the creek (above 1,800’) are accessed by a combination of old roads and
trails. The section in between requires
hard core bushwhacking, so most normal people will choose to skip that.
Thanks
to Jack and Brenda for joining me. The
only damage from this adventure was one missing water bottle, lots of
scratches, and some sore muscles. Maybe
now I can put my obsession with Little Fall Creek to rest. What’s next?
Back to South Carolina
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Please remember to Leave No Trace!