The Asian Water Dragon
Physignathus Cocincinus
The Asian Water Dragon is a semi-aquatic, arboreal, tropical lizard of Asia and Austrilia. The Water Dragon is mainly green, with darker areas on the head and joints. The chin and throat are white to light yellow, and the underside is white to pale green. Water dragons do not have a dewlap, but posses large skin folds. A prominent dorsal crest runs from the neck to the tail. Juveniles are typically diagonally banded with 3-5 light stripes, usually pale blue to green in color, that disappear with age. The Eastern water dragon, from Australia, resembles the asian water dragon in size and shape but is brown, with gray to gray-brown underside. Broad black and narrow stripes run through the back and down to the tail of the animal. A very prominent dark horizontal stripe may be visible on each side of the head, running through the eye down to the neck. Like the Asian sub-species, a dorsal crest runs from the head down to the tail.
Most adults usually reach 16 inches in length. The male is usually slightly larger than the female. The tail of the water dragon accounts for more than half of it's total length. The excpected lifespan is usually eleven (11) years, but some can live up to fifteen (15) years of age. Water Dragons are less aggressive and calmer than green iguanas, although they are prone to intense spurts of speed. The are also smaller and more managable than green iguanas. This species is active but usually timid. They may attempt to flee when disturbed. Water dragons can sometimes be intolerant to other animals, so it is recommended to keep either a pair (male and female) or a maximum of a male and two females together in a single vivarium. I have found that Anoles do well with them. So do box turtles. However, when I tried to house another water dragon with Anubis, she killed him. She is very teritorial and some of them are. So be carefull when introducing new animals into the vivarium. In the wild, Water Dragons live in humid, sub-tropical forests, wooded streams, and rocky ponds. One to two dragons can be kept in a 5 1/2 foot by 3 foot vivarium, but larger areas permit landscaping and more room for the dragon to move around and feel more comfortable. The vivarium should be high enough to install branches so the lizard can bask under a heat lamp or spotlight during the daylight hours. NEVER PUT THE LIGHT INSIDE OF THE CAGE, this can cause serious burns if your dragon come in contact with them. (yes, the picture at the right has a light on the inside of the cage, that's the only thing that I found was wrong with that set up).The best enclosures that I have found are called "Reptariums," they are relativly cheap (mine is a 100 gallon, I got it for $110.00) They consist of a PVC like frame, with a mesh that zips up around it. The mesh is black so your dragon can see it, but you can still see through it. They complelty fold down and roll up when not in use. Reptariums are sold at most pet stores, I picked mine up at Petco. These lizards are semi-aquatic and need a large water area in their enclosure, covering perferably at least a third of the floor of the vivarium. The water should be maintained at a temperature of at least 77 degrees Fahrenheit. In most cases, a plane vivarium heater will do the job, but an aquarium heater or a heat mat can be placed under the water conatianer. The pool of water will also provide high humidity, which is essential for these creatures. A wonderfull device that I have found was a terrarium fogger, it creates a pleasent mist on the bottom of the cage and also creates very high humidity. You can pick these up at
www.drsfostersmith.com they run for $49.99 and are called, Ultrasonic Foggers. The branches in the water dragons cage should be at least the diameter of the lizard's body. Real plants look very nice and create the outdoor feel, but I have found that fake plants and vines from the Arts and Crafts store are cheap, don't require attention, and last forever. The temperature of the vivarium must be in the mid 80's, dropping to the mid 60's to 70's in the night (70's perferably). Food dishes are not nessasary, I hand feed my dragon, that way I can monitor how she is eating, if she's having trouble, ect. (scroll down for feeding information).
The recommended photoperiod (light cycle) is 12-14 hours of light and 10-12 hours of darkness. Ideally, provide access to unfiltered sunlight, but if this is not possible, provide a full spectrum light source so they can get all the UV rays that are essential to them. Grow lights are good, when accompanied by a special reptile light. (They provide all UV rays). Appearence
Size and Lifespan
Behavior
Like most arboreal lizards, they require a spacious vivarium (aquarium made into half water half land) with the highest quality lighting and heating. It is important to remember that all lizards excrete Salmonella, so it is VERY important to be careful about personal hygiene and always supervise children around these creatures because they do leave a nasty bite. Housing and Environment
Lighting
Sexing and Breeding
Males are larger than females, and their dorsal crest is more developed. A hemipenal bulge also can be seen at the base of the tail in mature males.
Sexual maturity can be reached at one year of age. Breeding usually occurs during the winter and early spring. Males in breeding condition will become brightly colored from golden-yellow to deep orange on the chin, chest, and side of the head. The female water dragon can lay up to five clitches of eggs in one season. Each clutch containing 10 to 15 eggs. An egg laying container should be placed in a remote area of the vivarium for egg laying. The eggs are best incubated on damp vermiculite at 82 to 86 F. and the babies should hatch between 60 and 101 days. Neonates (hatchlings) measure around 6 inches in length at birth. Their care is similar to the adults. They should be raised in groups and fed on insects dusted with mineral supplements and gut loaded (well fed incects are referd to as being "gut loaded").
Water dragons are mainly cornivorous, feeding on a variety of invertebrates, small mammals, birds, lizards, frogs, and on rare occasions, fruits and plant matter. In captivity they should be fed a varied diet that consists of, small feeder goldfish (obtained at your local pet store), earth worms (you can get these at any store alomst in the fishing section, they sell them as bait), wax worms (get these at the pet store also). They also eat, mealworms (it sounds gross, but smash the heads of these before feeding them to your dragon, they can survive in the dragons stomach, and eat their way out), silkworms, trevoworms, and the occasional pre-killed pinkie or sub-adult mouse (an adult dragon is large enough to handle a small or sub-adult mouse as a food item). Offer high fat food like mice and wax worms as a treat rather than as a steady diet. Even with reptiles, a diet high in fat has been problem causing in long term health problems such as, lipid (fat) build-up in the corneas of the eyes preventing the passage of light; the result is blindness.
Like I said earlier, you do not need food dishes, Let the dragon eat out of your hand, or let the food roam the cage. But be carefull when hand feeding, lay your hand flat so that your dragon does not mistake your finger as food, or use feeding tongs or tweezers.
Click for a Gallery of Anubis
Click for a list of Non-Toxic Plants you can house your dragon with.
Click to visit the Reptile Man, he is located in my hometown of Goldbar Washington, and has a very impressive serpentarium.
This is a picture of the other water dragon I had, his name was Goshevin, and sadly, Anubis did not let him eat properly and bit him. A week after we got him we found him in very bad condition, laying on the bottom of the cage. As we were rushing him to the vet, he died on the way there. He was a very sweet male and will always be remembered by us.
