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All About Hong Kong

Hong Kong's dynamism is unforgettable. From the vantage point of Victoria Peak, overlooking the world's busiest deepwater port, you can see a city geared not only to making money but feeling good about it. At night, it's like looking down into a volcano. Despite its British colonial past, Hong Kong has always stuck to its roots and the culture beneath the glitz is pure Chinese. That didn't stop locals from feeling apprehensive about being re-united with the motherland when the British handed the colony back to China in 1997, but their unease has largely evaporated. Visitors often find it takes a few days in Hong Kong to get accustomed to the whirlwind pace. If you need some respite, check out the Outlying Islands for a change of tempo and scene.

Facts at a Glance
History
When to Go
Orientation
Attractions

Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Events
Getting There & Away
Getting Around

Facts at a Glance

Area:423 sq mi(1084 sq km)
Population: 6.06 million
People: 98% Chinese, 1.5% European
Province: Hong Kong Special Administrative Region
Time Zone: GMT/UTC plus eight hours
Telephone Area Code: 852

History

The British took control of Hong Kong in 1841 following the Opium Wars. European trade with China had been taking place since the 16th century, but as European demand for tea and silk grew, the balance of trade became more and more unfavourable to Europeans, who were expected to pay in silver. In 1773, the British unloaded 154,322 lb(70,000 kg) of Bengal opium, and the Chinese taste for the `foreign mud' grew exponentially. Alarmed at the drain of silver from the country and the increasing number of addicts, the emperor banned the drug trade. The Europeans, with the help of corrupt Chinese officials, managed to keep the trade in opium going until 1839, when the emperor again issued orders to stamp it out.

The British sent an expeditionary force to China to exact reprisals, secure favourable trade arrangements and obtain use of some islands as a British base. The force blockaded Canton (now called Guangzhou) and a number of other ports, ultimately threatening Beijing. The British pressured the Chinese into ceding Hong Kong Island to them in perpetuity. Both sides ultimately repudiated the agreement, but Commodore Gordon Bremmer led a contingent of naval men ashore on 26 January 1841 and claimed the island for Britain. A series of conflicts followed, with the British backed by French, Russian and American interests. A combined British and French force invaded China in 1859, forcing the Chinese to agree to the Convention of Peking, which ceded the Kowloon Peninsula and nearby Stonecutters Island to the British. In 1898, the British also gained a 99-year lease on the New Territories, which they felt essential to protect their interests on Hong Kong Island.

Prior to WW II, Hong Kong began a gradual shift away from trade to manufacturing. This move was hastened by the civil war in China during the 1920s and by the Japanese invasion in the 1930s, when Chinese capitalists fled to the safer confines of the colony. When the US embargo on Chinese goods during the Korean War threatened to strangle the colony, it was forced to increase its manufacturing capacity and develop service industries, such as banking and insurance. Hong Kong's existence was threatened again when the Communists came to power in China in 1949 and during the Cultural Revolution in the 1960s. Although the Chinese could have re-taken Hong Kong with ease, China was as reliant on Hong Kong as Hong Kong was on China.

In December 1984, the British agreed to hand over the entire colony when the lease on the New Territories ran out in 1997, rather than hang onto a truncated colony consisting of Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. The agreement theoretically allows Hong Kong to retain its present social, economic and legal systems for at least 50 years after 1997. As the handover approached, controversies raged over the building of Hong Kong's expensive new airport and the amount of democracy the Chinese were willing to accept. Little has changed on the surface since the handover, though voters clearly signalled their desires in legislative elections in May 1998, when a significant number of pro-democracy candidates were elected to office. Hong Kong is currently suffering the fallout from Asia's economic crises, and is experiencing rising unemployment and close to zero growth.

When to Go

Many prefer to visit Hong Kong during November and December when there are pleasant breezes, plenty of sunshine and comfortable temperatures. January and February are still doable months but the temperature can drop to below 50°F (10°C). Warmer tempertures make March and April pleasant months to go but as the year progresses into May temps can go up to 100°F(38°C)the air becomes uncomfortably sticky and humid and by September you can expect cyclones.

Orientation

Hong Kong is divided into four main areas - Kowloon, Hong Kong Island, the New Territories and the Outlying Islands. Kowloon and the New Territories are on a peninsula of the Chinese mainland, on the northern side of Victoria Harbour; Hong Kong Island is on the southern side of the harbour facing Kowloon; the Outlying Islands simply refers to any of the other 234 islands. The New Territories has a 12mi(20km) land border with China.

Attractions

Hong Kong Island

Every visitor to Hong Kong Island makes the trip to Victoria Peak, which has one of the most spectacular views in the world. It's also a good way to orient yourself to Hong Kong's sometimes confusing geography. Another major tourist attraction is Aberdeen, on the southern side of Hong Kong Island, where 6000 people live or work on junks anchored in the harbour. Sampan tours of the Aberdeen Harbour are definitely worth the expense. The other major draw is the floating restaurants.

Kowloon

Tsim Sha Tsui, at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula, is the territory's tourist ghetto. It consists of one sq km of shops, restaurants, pubs, topless bars and camera stores. However, Kowloon is also home to the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, the Space Museum, the famous Peninsula Hotel and the Museum of History. The Promenade, in East Tsim Sha Tsui, is a great place for a stroll, and has wonderful views of Victoria Harbour, particularly at night. The liveliest night market in the territory is on Temple St in Yau Ma Tei.

Off the Beaten Track

New Territories

Although a third of Hong Kong's population lives in new towns constructed in the New Territories, the area has some scenic escapes, including the Sai Kung Peninsula, in the east, which is an unspoilt playground for hikers, campers, swimmers and boaters. Bird-watchers head to the Mai Po Marsh; cyclists and walkers head to Plover Cove Reservoir; hiking enthusiasts set out on the 62mi(100km)long MacLehose Trail which spans the New Territories from Tuen Mun in the west to Pak Tam Chung in the east. Shui Tau, a walled village on the outskirts of Kam Tin, is one of several small communities in the area famous for its carved roofs and traditional style Chinese houses.

Outlying Islands

There are 234 outlying islands, many of them little more than uninhabited rocks. However, Cheung Chauabout 1 sq mi(2.5 sq km) has 20,000 residents and is fast developing into a mini Honolulu, although there is no motorised traffic. Lantau, the largest of the islands 55 sq mi(142 sq km) has a population of 30,000, a 3060ft(933m) peak, and a 44 mi(70km) walking trail, but has avoided many of the development excesses of other islands. It is home to several important monasteries, including Po Lin Monastery with its enormous bronze Buddha. Thanks to the new airport development, Lantau is now connected by bridge to the mainland. Other islands worth visiting include Lamma, Peng Chau, Poi Toi and the uninhabited Tung Lung Chau.

Activities

There are plenty of bike paths in the New Territories, and it's also easy to rent a bike, especially around Tolo Harbour. If you like fishing, there's plenty of people who'll take you out on a boat, or you can dip your rod in one of the city's reservoirs. You'll need to be cashed up to play on one of Hong Kong's five golf courses - if you're not, try hiking in Country Parks. Lantau Island the MacLehose Trail in the New Territories are also good for a leg stretch. There are good beaches everywhere except Kowloon and the north side of Hong Kong Island - the best ones are on the Outlying Islands. Windsurfing and sailing are both extremely popular, and there are several yacht clubs and outlets where you can rent boards or small craft.

Events

Use of the Western calendar and the Chinese lunar calendar can make trying to determine the exact date of festivals a bit tricky. The Lantern Festival takes place in January or February. Lanterns are lit in homes, restaurants and temples. The secular Hong Kong Food Festival, billed as Asia's premier culinary event, is usually held in March. The Tin Hau Festival is a Taoist festival falling around late April. Junks are decorated and sail in long rows to Tin Hau temples to pray for clear skies and good fishing. The Dragon Boat Festival is held in June, with dragon boat races taking place in Hong Kong and Outlying Islands. The Festival of Asian Arts is a major international event and usually occurs in October or November.

The Chinese administration has introduced two new holidays: Handover Day will be celebrated on 1 July, while Victory over Japan day is on 4 July.

Getting There & Away

Hong Kong is the major gateway to China and much of East Asia. International air service is excellent and fares are relatively cheap. Visitors should reconfirm onward or return tickets well before departure or seats may be lost. Departure tax is US$6.50(HK$50). In June 1998 Hong Kong opened its new international airport - Chek Lap Kok - on Lantau Island. There's also an international train link between Hong Kong and Guangzhou (Canton) and a new six-lane highway. An express train to Beijing takes about 30 hours. Several transport companies in Hong Kong offer bus services to Guangzhou, Shenzhen and several other destinations in Guangdong Province. There are also boats that take you to destinations in Guangdong and Guangxi Provinces.

Getting Around

Hong Kong is small and crowded, which makes public transport the only practical way to get around. Public transport is cheap, fast, widely used and generally efficient. The bus system is extensive and bewildering but you will need it to explore the south side of Hong Kong Island and the New Territories. The north side of Hong Kong Island and most of Kowloon are well-served by Hong Kong's ultra-modern Mass Transit Railway (MTR). Three tunnels link Hong Kong with Kowloon.

The Kowloon-Guangzhou (Canton) Railway (KCR) runs from Kowloon to the Chinese border at Lo Wu. Light Rail Transit (fast, modern, air-con trams) run in the New Territories, connecting the city of Tuen Mun with Yuen Long. Double-decker trams trundle along the northern side of Hong Kong Island. Hong Kong's ferries are usually faster and cheaper than buses and trams. They are also fun, and the harbour views are stunning when the weather cooperates. Hoverferries are about twice as fast as conventional boats.

Metered taxis are red with silver tops (and green with white tops in the New Territories). They will not pick up or put down at bus stops. Car rental is available but don't contemplate it. Bicycling in Kowloon or Central would be suicidal, but in quiet areas of the islands or the New Territories a bike can be quite a nice way of getting around.

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