Pot Cascades.
I do not consider myself a great expert in this field. My original information
came from books published in England. From this background, I have developed
my own method which has stood me in good stead over the years and which
annually results in a substantial display in my garden and eventually
in the show hall of the West Australian Chrysanthemum Society. Propagation
is best by cuttings. These should be taken at least a month before the
other exhibition types because of the length and mass of growth which
is required. Cuttings are struck in trays with a plastic divider so
that each cutting is close to an edge. Each cutting is dipped in a fungicide
before planting and a hormone rooting compound is also used. Ordinary
garden soil is used; the only requirement I have is that it has good
draining properties. When I plant the cuttings, I saturate the soil
so that it does not require more water for some time. I have found that
freshly rooted Cascade cuttings have a tendency to go to a terminal
bud when very small. I believe that this is caused by keeping the cutting
trays in the shade. In trying to obviate this, I have had great success
by placing trays in full sunlight protected from the winds by a glass
wall app. 600mm high on three sides, the fourth being a low retaining
wall. Plants here are perfectly sheltered and yet get maximum sunlight.
Here my plants get a very fine spraying directly onto the foliage to
prevent wilting. When the cuttings are well rooted, they are then planted
into 95mm (4inch) pots and when they reach a height of 300 - 350 mm,
the growing tip is pinched out and at this stage I plant them out into
their final pots, 250 mm (10 inch). These pots have a wire mesh frame
attached to the top edge and hanging down on one side. These pots are
then placed in their final growing position on a tubular steel frame
with a rail 230 mm high with the wire mesh hanging down over the rail.
In order to assist with the cascading process, when given its final
potting, the plant is potted at an angle to reduce the amount of bending
required and the resulting arced plant can be tied down, being very
careful not to overdo the bending process. A little bit and often is
the thing here. A snapped off plant is no use to anyone. After the first
stop or pinching out, select one growth from the top as the main leader
and do not stop this one again. If by mischance this is broken, then
it will be necessary to grow another main leader. All other growths
should be pinched out when they reach four or five leaves. The leader
will eventually need to be tied down to the wire frame but do take it
gently. Eventually it will be very simple when the plant is well grown,
but more difficult as a young plant. The side laterals may also be tied
down outwards to suit any pattern which is required. The pinching out
should continue throughout the summer until the beginning of March when
the buds should start forming. Tying down should continue through the
summer. Growth will be fairly rapid from bud formation and care must
be taken not to damage these as they develop. Buds will start to show
colour in early April and will be in full bloom later in that month
and into May. Most Cascades will produce basal shoots. These should
be allowed to grow upwards. the tips of these growths should be pinched
out when they have developed four leaves or more as tastes dictate.
Left alone they will grow to a height of 50 cms. At the later stages
of growth a section of wire mesh is attached vertically at the back
of the pot and the rear laterals should be tied to it. By doing this,
the overall effect is a much better looking plant. I have decided to
make very little comment on soil except to say that my advice would
be to continue to use the soil or compost which has been giving success
up to this point. Fertilising should be treated in the same way as with
other chrysanthemum plants, but with one significant difference, that
being that a fertiliser with a high nitrogen content should be used
throughout the growing period and right up to just before the appearance
of buds. The reasons for this are to keep the laterals pliable and to
assist the mass growth of all those laterals. Fertilising should be
undertaken every three days. During the growing period when the temperatures
are less than 28 degrees, plants should be watered once each day, but
if the temperatures rise higher it may be necessary to water more often.
If the soil is damp and the plant is wilting then it is helpful to spray
the foliage with water. The rate of growth seems to be partly controlled
by heat. At lower temperatures with cool nights, Cascades will grow
up to 35mm overnight, but when the temperature is over 28 degrees growth
is reduced to nil.
Hanging Baskets.
Baskets should have wire mesh attached to the top edge and hang downwards
in a tubular shape about 600mm. Three plants should be used. They should
be planted at the back of the basket at an angle with all plants leaning
forwards and the two outside ones leaning towards the centre. The main
leaders should be tied downwards. The main purpose is to train all three
plants to grow downwards and be trained around and down the tubular
wire frame. The side laterals may be left a little longer with basket
plants before being stopped in order to encourage more sideways growth.
Should growth extend beyond the bottom of the wire tube, then it may
be worked around to fill in any unwanted gaps. Again as with the more
normal pot Cascades, basal growth from the three plants should be nipped
and trained to form the upper parts of the plant and give it more balance.
When the buds are forming, it is important to be careful of rain and
high winds, for any damage to the plant will ruin its form and very
little can be done to remedy the situation. During the growing phase
my plants are grown in full daylight. I have constructed a special framework
for my basket Cascades, but when the buds are forming, my best ones
are taken down and placed under cover for protection. The majority have
to take their chance and are left outside at the mercy of the elements.
As a final point it must be remembered that cascades may be grown to
any shape, its only restriction is related to the ability of the grower
to fashion the shape of the laterals and the imagination of the grower.
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