Peshawar derives its name from a Sanskrit word "Pushpapura", meaning
the city of flowers. Peshawar's flowers were
mentioned even in Moghal Emperor Babur's memories.
Alexander's legions and the southern wing of his army were held up in here
in 327 B.C. for forty days at a fort excavated
recently, 28km north-east of Peshawar at Pushkalavati (lotus city) near Charsadda.
The great Babur marched through historic Khyber Pass to conquer South Asia
in 1526 and set up the Moghal Empire in the
Indo-Pakistan subcontinent.
The pass and the valley have resounded to the tramp of marching feet as successive
armies hurtled down the cross-roads of
history, pathway of commerce, migration and invasion, by Aryans, Scythians,
Persians, Greeks, Bactrians, Kushans, Huns,
Turks, Mongols and Moghals.
And Peshawar is now, as always, very much a frontier town. The formalities
of dress and manner give way here to a free and
easy style, as men encounter men with a firm handclasp and a straight but
friendly look. Hefty handsome men in baggy trousers
and long, loose shirts, wearing bullet studded bandoliers across their chest
or pistols at their sides as a normal part of their
dress.
There is just that little touch of excitment and drama in the air that makes
for a frontier land. An occasional salvo of gunfire--no,
not a tribal raid or a skirmish in the streets but a lively part of wedding
celebrations.
Remember, we are in the land of Pathans--a completely male-dominated society.
North and South of Peshawar spreads the
vast tribal area where lives the biggest tribal society in the world, and
well-known, though much misrepresented.
Pathans are faithful Muslims. Their typical martial and religious charaters
has been moulded by their heros like Khushal Khan
Khattak, the warrior-poet and Rehman Baba, a preacher and also a poet of Pushto
language.
Today, they themselves guard the Pakistan-Afghanistan border along the great
passes of Khyber, the Tochi, the Gomal and
others on Pakistan's territory, but before independence they successfully
defied mighty empires, like the British and the Moghals
and others before them, keeping the border simmering with commotion, and the
flame of freedom proudly burning.
Peshawar is the great Pathan city. And what a city. Hoary with age and the
passage of twenty-five centuries, redolent with the
smell of luscious fruit and roasted meat and tobacco smoke, placid and relaxed
but pulsating with the rhythmic sound of
craftsmen's hammers and horses' hooves, unhurried in its pedestrian pace and
horse-carriage traffic, darkened with tall houses,
narrow lanes and overhanging balconies, intimate, with its freely intermingling
crowd of townsmen, tribals, traders and
tourists--this is old Peshawar, the journey's end or at least a long halt,
for those travelling up north or comming down from the
Middle east or Central Asia, now as centuries before when caravans unloaded
in the many caravan-serais now lying deserted
outside the dismantled city walls or used as garages by the modern caravans
of far-ranging buses.
The Old City
Until the mid-fifties Peshawar was enclosed within a city wall and sixteen
gates. Of the old city gates the most famous was the
Kabuli Gate but only the name remains now. It leads out of the Khyber and
on to Kabul.
You come across two-and three-storeyed houses built mostly of unbaked bricks
set in wooden frames to guard againt
earthquakes. Many old houses have beautifully carved heavy wooden doors and
almost all have highly ornamental wooden
balconies. There is a tall and broad structure whose lofty portals look down
upon the street. This historic building houses the
police offices and the site was occupied centuries ago by a Buddhist stupa,
then by a Hindu temple and then by a Moghal serai.
It was, in Sikh days, the seat of General Avitable, an Italian soldier of
fortune in the service of Ranjit Singh.
Qissa Khawani Bazaar
Here perhaps visiting travellers or the relaxing townsmen were regaled with
stories by professional story-tellers, in the evening,
in the many tea-shops that still adorn the bazaar front with their large brass
samovars and numerous hanging tea pots and
tea-cups.
As in most eastern bazaars, the shops of delicacies predominate, and here
too you will find many colorful fruit-shops displaying
the glorious harvest of Peshawar orchards. You will be waylaid by the enticing
smell of Peshawar's unrivalled bread and justly
celebrated 'Kababs' and 'Tikkas', meat sizzling on hot coals, in the many
wayside cafes.
Leather goods shops are the next most numerous selling that wonderful footwear,
the Peshawari "chappals" or sandals, belts,
holsters and bandoliers and a special variety of light but sturdy suitcases
called "Yakhdaan".
Other Bazaars
As you move up, the Qissa Khawani Bazaar turns left and here begins the bazaar
of coppersmiths whose jewel-like engraved
and embossed jars, bowls, ewers and plates are piled up in shops like glistening
treasure trove. Other famous bazaars of
Peshawar are the Khyber Bazaar, Bird Bazaar, Fruit Bazaar, Basket Bazaar,
Andershahr Bazaar, Jewellery Bazaar and Meena
Bazaar for women and Mochilara (Shoe-maker's Bazaar).
In fact, the variety of craft in which Peshawar excels even today is amazing
and this is a part of the city's character often
eclipsed by its martial tradition. Remember that it was in this valley of
Peshawar that there flourished that remarkable school of
Gandhara sculpture (roughly from 1st century B.C. to the 5th century A.D.),
which is one of the glories of Pakistan's heritage.
Chowk Yadgar
Soon you reach the central square called Chowk Yadgar, the traditional site
of political rallies, with a modern monument in
abstract design in the center. The two routes from the old city meet here.
Parking of cars can safely be done only at this place in
the old city.
Mosque of Mahabat Khan
The only significant remaining Moghal mosque in Peshawar was built by Mahabat
Khan in 1670 A.D. when he was twice
Governor of Peshawar under Moghal Emperors Shah Jehan and Aurangzeb. The mosque
was nearly destroyed by fire in 1898
and was only saved by the unremitting efforts of the faithful. The extensive
renovation of the mosque was done by traditional
craftsmen. The mosque is a fine specimen of Moghal architecture or Emperor
Shah Jehan's period. The interior of the prayer
chamber has been lavishly decorated with floral work and calligraphy.
Balahisar Fort
The mighty Balahisar Fort lies on both eastern and western approaches to
Peshawar city. It meets the eye when coming from
Islamabad or from the Khyber. It is a massive frowing structure as its name
implies, and the newcomer passing under the
shadow of its huge battlements and ramparts cannot fail to be impressed. Originally
built by Babur, the first of the Moghals in
1526-30, it was rebuilt in its present form by the Sikh Governor of Peshawar,
Hari Singh Nalva, in the 1830's under the
guidance of French engineers. It houses government offices at present.
Peshawar Museum
Peshawar Museum is housed in an imposed building of the British days. It
was formerly the Victoria Memorial Hall built in
1905. The large hall, side galleries and the raised platform which were used
for ball dance have been utilized for arranging in
chronological order and labelled display of finest specimens of Gandhara sculptures,
projecting the life of Buddha, ethnography,
tribal life and the Muslim period.
New Peshawar
Across the railway line was built the new modern Peshawar, the Cantonment,
like the ones which the British built near every
major city for their administrative offices, military barracks, residences,
parks, churches and shops.
The Peshawar 'Saddar' (Cantonment) is a sapciously laid out neat and clean
township with avenues of tall trees, wide tarred
roads, large single-storeyed houses with large lawns and a pervading scent
of rare shrubs and flowers that is Peshawar's own.
The heart of the Saddar is the Khalid Bin Walid (Company) Bagh which is an
old Moghal Garden. Its huge ancient trees and
gorgeous big roses are a sight to remember. Two other splendid old gardens
are the Shahi Bagh in the north-east and the Wazir
Bagh in the south-east, all of which give the character of the garden city
to Peshawar.
In the Saddar is the splendid modern State Bank building, Governor's House,
hotels, old missionary Edwards College, a richly
stocked Museum, a fine shopping area and right in the middle is the Tourist
Information Centre at Dean's Hotel (Phone:
79781-Ext. 33).
The Peshawar of the hoary past is the old city, the Peshawar of the British
period (1849-1947) is the Cantonment but the
Peshawar of independent Pakistan is the vast extension of the city west and
east.
Westward, on the road to the Khyber, where in the days gone by, no one was
assafe from tribal raids, today stretches a long
line of educational and research institutions, such as the Academy of Rural
Development. the Teachers' Training College, the
North Regional Laboratories of the Council of scientific and Industrial Research,
and many others.
But the pride of Peshawar today is its University, a vast sprawling garden
town of red brick buildings and velvet lawns, which
comprises a dozen departments and colleges of Law, Medicine, Engineering and
Forestry. Special mention must be made of
the Islamia College, which was the poineer national institution that lighted
the torch of enlightment in this region, 70 years ago.
The road stretching out east towards Islamabad is lined for miles upon miles
with factories producing a variety of goods and
also orchards producing some of the world's finest plums, pears and peaches.
Rice, sugar-cane and tobacco are the rich
cash-crops of the well-watered Peshawar valley through which flows the Kabul
River and at the end of which the mighty Indus
forms the district boundary for 49km, the two joining near the historic Attock
Fort.
The Khyber Pass
The prime attraction in the region is the Khyber Pass situated in the Sulaiman
Hills which form the western barrier of Pakistan.
The hills dip down here, leaving a passage sometimes as broad as 1.5km and
sometimes as narrow as 16 meters. The pass
begins near Jamrud Fort 18km from Peshawar and extends beyond the border of
Pakistan at Torkham 58km away. At
Torkham PTDC has a motel-cum-Information Center which is closed at present
due to unsettled conditions in Afghanistan.
There are two ways for visiting the legendary Khyber Pass. You may travel
by road from Peshawar via Jamrud Fort, low stony
hills capped with pickets manned by Khyber Rifles, Ali Masjid and the fort,
insignia of the regiments that have served in the
Khyber, remains of Sphola stupa of Buddhist period (2nd-5th centuries A.D.),
Landikotal Bazaar and to the border post at
Torkham. The other exciting way seeing Khyber Pass is to undertake a 42km
and 3.5 hours journey to Landikotal at the
nominal tourist ticket by the equally legendary Khyber Railway. Tribal people
travel free as part of the contract agreed upon
when they allowed the British to build the railway into their territory. It
treads its way through 34 tunnels crossing 92 bridges
and culverts and climbing 1,200 meters. The British built it in 1920 at the
then enormous cost of Rs. two million. Two or three
coaches are pulled and pushed by two 1920 model steam engines. AT one point,
the track climbs 130 meters in less than a
mile by means of famous Changai Spur, a section of track shaped like a 'W'
with two reversing stations.
At Landikotal railway station, taxi cabs are available for 8km road journey
upto Torkham, the border check post. The train
waits at Landikotal for 2 hours for return journey. Taxis are available here
also for the return journey of 48km by road to
Peshawar, if one is not inclined to travel again by train.