Geography :
The Kingdom of Nepal covers an area of 147,181 square
kilometers, and stretches 145-241 kilometers north to south and 850 kilometers
west to east. The country is located between India in the south and China in the
north. At latitudes 26 and 30 degrees north and longitudes 80 and 88 degrees
east, Nepal is topographically divided into three regions: the Himalaya to the
north, the hills consisting of the Mahabharat range and the Churia Hills, and
the Terai to the south. Elevations are varied in the kingdom. The highest point
is Mt. Everest (8848 m) in the north and the lowest point (70 meters above sea
level) is located at Kechana Kalan of Jhapa District. Altitude increases as you
travel south to north To the north temperatures are below - 40 degrees Celsius
and in the Terai, temperatures rise to 40 degrees Celsius in the summer. During
June, July and August, the kingdom is influenced by monsoon clouds.
The Himalaya :
The Himalayan range makes up the northern border of the
country and represents 16% of the total land area of Nepal. Peaks like Mt.
Everest (8.848 m), Kanchenjunga (8.598 m), and Dhaulagiri (8137 m) are found
here and sparse vegetation is found up to 4.500 m. Some of Nepal's most
beautiful animal and plant life are also found here. Although rare, the snow
leopard and danphe bird are much talked about sights among visitors. The people
in this region produce and sell cheese besides working as porters and guides.
Many also trade with Tibet and travel across the border to sell their goods.
The hills :
This region covers 65% of the total land area of the
country. Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal is located here. Elevations range from
500 to 3.000 m above sea level. During summer the temperature reaches an average
of 32 degrees Celsius. Winters are cold, temperature reaching - 1 degree Celsius
sometimes. Areas in the eastern hills receive more rainfall because of the
monsoon clouds which come from the south-east. The rivers in the west which do
not receive much rainfall are dependent upon the melted snow that flow down the
Himalaya. Wild animals to be found here are the spotted leopard, barking deer,
and Himalayan black bear. The hilly region is also popular for different kinds
of birds. Over four hundred species of birds are found here. The people in this
region have gained from the growth in the tourism industry. The people here work
as trekking guides and porters and also sell garments and carpets to add to
their income.
Terai :
The Terai covers 17% of the total land area of Nepal.
It provides excellent farming land and the average elevation of flatlands is 100
to 300 m above sea-level. Sub-tropical forest areas, marshes, and wildlife which
include the Royal Bengal tiger, one-horned rhino, and the garial crocodile are
found here. After the eradication of malaria in the 1960s, many people migrated
to the Terai in search of farming land. Today, about 48% of the country's
population occupies this region. Flat farmlands and the region's flexible
topography have given rise to many industries. The main industrial towns are
Biratnagar, Butwal, Bhairawa, Birgunj, and Janakpur. Calcutta, a metropolitan
city in India is the closest sea-port. It lies 1,000 kilometers away from
Birgunj.
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History :
For centuries the Kingdom of Nepal was divided into
many principalities. Kirats ruled in the east, the Newars in the Kathmandu
Valley, while Gurungs and Magars occupied the mid-west. The Kirats ruled from
300 BC and during their reign, emperor Ashoka arrived from India to build a
pillar at Lumbini in memory of Lord Buddha. The Kirats were followed by the
Lichhavis whose descendants today are believed to be the Newars of the Kathmandu
Valley. During this period, art thrived in Nepal and many of the beautiful
woodcarvings and sculptures that are found in the country belong to this era.
With the end of the Lichhavi dynasty, Malla kings came to power in 1200 AD and
they also con tributed tremendously to Nepal's art and culture. However, after
almost 600 years of rule, the kings were not united among themselves and during
the late 11th century, Prithvi Narayan Shah, King of Gorkha, conquered Kathman
du and united Nepal into one kingdom. Recognizing the threat of the British Raj
in India, he dismissed European missionaries from the country and for more than
a century, Nepal remained in isolation. During the mid-I 9th century Jung
Bahadur Rana became Nepal's first prime minister to wield absolute power. He set
up an oligarchy and the Shah Kings remained figure-heads. The Ranas were
overthrown in a democracy movement of the early 1950s. Today, Nepal enjoys a
multi party democratic system with a constitutional Monarch.
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The People :
People, Culture, and Languages :
In Nepal, ethnical cultural groups are diverse and many
of them have their own languages and customs. However, they can be
geographically categorized according to their habitats. The Sherpas who are of
Tibeto-Burman stock mainly occupy the higher hills of eastern and central Nepal.
The SoIu Khumbu region, where the world's tallest peak Mt. Everest stands, is
inhabited by Sherpas. Generally they are Buddhist but some follow the Bon, the
pre-Buddhist religion of Tibet, and other religions. The Sherpas are famed for
their valor and mountaineering skills and are professionally involved in many
mountain expeditions. Today. Sherpas have joined other occupations as well, like
business, administration and politics.
A wide variety of ethnic groups occupy the mid-hills.
The Kirats or Limbus and Rais inhabit the east. During the 7th century BC, they
established a dynasty in the Kathmandu Valley and ruled it for 1.000 years. They
are not originally Hindus or Buddhists but are ancestor worshipers. However,
today, many embrace Hinduism. In the former days, they were warriors and skilled
hunters. The Kirats speak Tibeto-Burman languages. Many serve in the British
Army today and have earned a reputation as the brave Gurkhas.
The population of the Kathmandu Valley consists mostly
of Newars. They speak Nepalbbasa and practice Hinduism and Buddhism. Many
families celebrate both Hindu and Buddhist festivals. Their culture also
reflects tantrism and animism. Newars are accomplished in commerce and most
enterprises in the heart of the Valley are run by them. Historically, they are
well known for establishing the three artistically beautiful cities of Patan,
Bhaktapur and Kathmandu.
The inhabitants of the hill flanks surrounding
Kathmandu Valley are mostly Tamangs, who make up one of the largest
Tibeto-Burman ethnic groups in the Kingdom. In the Tibetan language, Tamang
means "horse soldier" which gives us an idea about their past
occupation. Today, they farm and work as semi-skilled and unskilled laborers.
Tamangs practice Tibetan Lamaism or the Bon religion and speak their own
language.
The Magars live in the western and central hills of
Nepal. They had their own kingdoms until the 18th century and were closely
associated with the Hindu Indo-Aryans in the west. Much of their cultural
practices have been influenced by Chhetris, and today it is difficult to make
any difference in the housing, dressing and farming practices of the two. The
Magars have been sought after by the British and Indian armies and a great
number serve in the Gurkha regiments.
Another ethnic group closely resembling the Magars in
many aspects are the Gurungs. They also live in the western and central hills of
the country although further to the east. Of Tibeto-Burman stock, the Gurungs
have their own distinct language and practice shamanism. Many find employment in
the British and Indian armies.
The Khas are the Bahuns and Chhetris who formed their
own kingdoms in the far-west. They are Hindus, and Nepali, which is the
country's official language, was originally spoken by the Khas. Traditionally,
the Bahuns were priests and are better educated than most ethnic groups. In fact,
many occupy important government and educational posts in the kingdom today. The
Chhetris have traditionally been known as warriors. Those living in the higher
hills in the far western region lead hard lives because of lack of rain and
farming is practiced in the river valleys and on the hill flanks.
The Tharus are one of the original ethnic groups to
inhabit the Terai. The Majhi, Danuwar, Rajbansi, Darai, Satar, and Dhimal also
occupy the flat lands. The Tharus have their own unique religion and practice
animism. Their culture is especially suited for the hot plains and they are
actually immune to malaria. They have Mongoloid features and speak their own
language. There is much migration going on in the country now and the cultural
definition of the people by area is difficult. Urban population is increasing by
7% each year and most cultures have intermingled.
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Religions :
Religious practices are an important part of the lives
of the Nepalese people. Mythologies of various Hindu gods and goddesses abound
in this country and cultural values are based on the philosophies of holy books
like the Swasthani Gita, Ramayana etc.
Women and children visit neighborhood shrines at dawn
to offer worship to the gods. Holding plates of rice, flowers, and vermilion
powder, they perform puja by lighting incense, ringing the temple bell, and
applying tika, a red paste, on their foreheads. Passers by stop at temples and
show their reverence to the gods by spending a few minutes praying. Occasionally,
groups of men sit near temples playing music and singing hyms until late night.
In Nepal, Hinduism and Buddhism are the two main
religions. The two have co-existed down the ages and many Hindu temples share
the same complex as Buddhist shrines. Hindu and Buddhist worshipers may regard
the same god with different names while performing religious rites.
Though Nepal is the only Hindu Kingdom in the world,
many other religions like Islam, Christianity, and Bon are practiced here. Some
of the earliest inhabitants like the Kirats practice their own kind of religion
based on ancestor worship and the Tharus practice animism. Over the years,
Hinduism and Buddhism have been influenced by these practices which have been
modified to form a synthesis of newer beliefs.
As a result, visitors to this country may often find
the religious practices in Nepal difficult to follow and understand. But this
does not prevent one from enjoying the idifferent traditional ceremonies and
rituals of Nepalese culture. It is indeed a totally new experience of religious
fervor.
Hinduism :
Thousands of gods and goddesses make up the Hindu
pantheon. Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva are he three major Hindu gods who have heir
own characteristics and incarnations. Each god has his own steed which is often
seen kneeling faithfully outside that god's temple. Symbolic objects are carried
by the multiple ands of each deity which empowers them to perform great feats.
Buddhism :
Sakyamuni Buddha is the founder of Buddhism who lived
and taught in this part of the world during the sixth century BC. The great
stupas of Swayambhunath and Bouddhanath are among the oldest and most beautiful
worship sites in the Kathmandu Valley.
The spinning of prayer wheels, prostrating pilgrims,
collective chants and burning butter lamps are some Buddhist practices often
encouithtered by tourists. A slip of paper bearing a mantra is kept inside the
wheels so that prayers are sent to the gods when the wheel is spun. Scenes from
the Buddha's life and Buddhist realms are depicted on thangka scroll paintings
which are used during meditation and prayer ceremonies. Many Buddhist followers
are seen performing these practices in Swayambhunath, Boudanath, and at other
Buddhist sites around the Valley.
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Economy :
Nepal is a developing country with an agricultural
economy. In recent years, the country's efforts to expand into manufacturing
industries and other technological sectors have achieved much progress. Farming
is the main ecomic activity followed by manufacturing, trade and tourism, The
chief sources of foreign currency earnings are merchandise export, services,
tourism and Gurkha remittances. The annual Gross Domestic Product (GDP) is about
US$ 4.3 billion.
Agriculture :
Eight out of 10 Nepalese are engaged in farming and it
accounts for more than 40% of the GDP. Rolling fields and neat terraces can be
seen all over the Terai flatlands and the hills of Nepal. Even in the highly
urbanized Kathmandu Valley, large tracts of land outside the city areas are
devoted to farming Rice is the staple diet in Nepal and around three millions
are produced annually. Other major crops are maize, wheat, millet and barley.
Besides food grains, cash crops like sugar cane, oil seeds, tobacco, jute and
tea are also cultivated in large quantities.
Manufacturing :
Manufacturing is still at the developmental stage and
it represents less than 10% of the GDP. Major industries are woolen carpets,
garments, textiles, leather products, paper and cement. Other products made in
Nepal are steel utensils, cigarettes, beverages and sugar. There are many modem
large-scale factories but the majority are cottage or small-scale operations.
Most of Nepal's industry is based in the Kathmandu Valley and a string of small
towns in the southern Terai plains.
Trade :
Commerce has been a major occupation in Nepal since
early times. Being situated at the crossroads of the ancient trans-Himalayan
trade route, trading is second nature to the Nepalese people. Foreign trade is
characterized mainly by import of manufactured products and export of
agricultural raw materials. Nepal imports manufactured goods and petroleum
products worth about US$ 1 billion annually. The value of exports is about US$
315 million. Woolen carpets are Nepal's largest export, earning the country over
US$ 135 million per year. Garment exports account for more than US$ 74 million
and handicraft goods bring in about US$ 1 million. Other important exports are
pulses, hides and skins, jute and medicinal herbs.
Tourism. In 1996, a total of 390,000 tourists visited
Nepal, making tourism one of the largest industries in the Kingdom. This sector
has been expanding rapidly since its inception in the 1950s, thanks to Nepal's
natural beauty, rich cultural heritage and the diversity of sight-seeing and
adventure opportunities available. At one time, tourism used to be the biggest
foreign currency earner for the country. Nepal earned over US$ 116 million from
tourism in 1995.
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Government :
Nepal has a bicameral legislature. The lower house, the
House of Representatives, consists of 205 members. Members to the lower house
are elected every five years. The upper house, the National Assembly, is made up
of 60 members who have a six-year tenure in office. One-third of the members
retire every two years. Fifteen members are elected by the local government, 35
members by proportional representation, and 10 members are nominated by the King.
Administrative Divisions :
Nepal is divided into five development regions, 14
zones, and 75 districts. Each zone consists of four to eight districts. Sixteen
districts lie in the Himalayan region, 39 in the hills and 20 in the Terai. The
lowest local level administrative unit is the Village Development Committee (VDC).
There are 3,996 VDC's in the country.
Climate and when to go :
It's hard to generalize about the climate of a country
ranging in elevation from near sea level to Mount Everest. About the only thing
that can be said is that all but a few parts of Nepal are governed by the same
monsoonal pattern, with temperatures varying according to elevation (see chart).
Five seasons prevail in Nepal, but these are not mere meteorological divisions:
when-ever you choose to go, you'll have to weigh weather against other factors,
both positive (mountain visibility, festivals, wildlife) and negative (crowds,
disease).
Probably half of all tourists visit Nepal in the autumn
(October to November), and for good reasons. The weather is clear and dry, and
temperatures aren't too cold in the high country nor too hot in the Tarai. with
the air washed clean by the monsoon rains, the mountains are at their most
visible, making this the most popular time for trekking. Two major festivals
also fall during this season. The downside, however, is that the tourist
quarters are heaving and hustly, it's hard to find a decent room, you'll
waltages for food and for trekking permits, and people are short on ready smiles
and chat.
In winter (December and January), the snow line
descends to 2.000 - 3000m and though it never snows in Kathmandu, the
"mists of India" make the capital feel cold and clammy (especially in
unheated budget lodgings). Most travelers head down into India, leaving the
trekking routes and guest houses fairly quiet too quiet, sometimes, as many
restaurants pare down their menus for the season.
Spring (February to mid-April) brings warmer
temperatures, longer days, weddings and more festivals. The rhododendrons are in
bloom in the hills towards the end of this period, and in the Tarai the thatch
has been cut, making this the best time for viewing wildlife. All of which
creates another tourist crush, albeit not quite as bad as in the autumn. The one
factor that keeps people away is a disappointing haze that obscures the
mountains from lower elevations, though it's usually possible to trek above it.
The pre-monsoon (mid-April to early June) is stifling
at lower elevations, and dusty wind squalls are common. People get a little edgy
with the heat; this is the time for popular unrest, but also for the Kathmandu
Valley's great rain-making festival. Trek high, where the temperatures are more
tolerable.
Nepal is welcome the monsoon (June to September), which
breaks the enervating monotony of the previous months, and makes the fields come
alive with rushing water and green shoots. The rains rinse and renew the land.
This can be a fascinating time to visit, when Nepal is at its most Nepali, but
there are many drawbacks: mountain views are rare, leeches come out in force
along the mid-elevation trekking routes, roads wash out, flights get canceled,
and disease runs rampant as the rising water table brings the entire contents of
Kathmandu's sewers to the surface.
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Tourist Visa :
Entry :
A Visa is necessary to enter Nepal and can be obtained
for the following duration from any Royal Nepalese Embassy or Consulate or at
the entry points in Nepal.
Trekking permit isuing offices :
1. Department of Immigration
2. Pokhara Immigration Office (Only for Annapurna,
Lower Dolpa and Miscellaneous areas).
3. Nepalgunj Immigration Office (within 30 days period
for the area of mid Western Region except restricted areas).
4. Kakarvitta Immigration Office (within 30 days period
for the area of Eastern Region except restricted areas).
5. Mahendranagar Immigration Office (within 30 days
period for the area of Far Western and Mid-Western Region except restricted
areas).
Miscellaneous Fees :
1. Travel document (in case of loss/damage/theft or
expiry of the passport) -US$ 10.00
2. Issuance of entry visa from the Department - 25%
along with regular entry visa fee.
3. Certification of Arrival or Departure stamp or Visa
Transfer - US$ 1.00 (One).
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Transport :
Airport taxi :
Tribhuwan International Airport Transport Workrs'
Cooperative operates a fixed-rate taxi service from the airport to the city. The
transport is available almost around the clock. Contact the TIA-TWC counter near
the arrival lounge exit. The Kathamandu Airport Facilitation Service operates
limousine service from the airport to the city.The Limousine Service counter is
located inside the arrival lounge.There are also meter taxis and other transport
Services.
Around the city :
Meter taxis and meter tempos can be hailed off the
street. Though they are a bit difficult to find after sundown. The charge for
meter taxis is Rs.5 at initial flag down and then Rs.1.80 for every 200 meters.
The taxi cabs of greenlines transportation are painted green and they operate
from 7 am to 8 pm. (tel:231632).Kathmandu yellow cab (tel:42 09 87) operates
from 6 am till 10 pm. . Nepal Blue Cab (tel: 23 16 32) operates from 6 am till
8:30 pm. In addition, there are many freelance taxis. A night taxi service is
available from the taxi stand at Dharma Path from 8 pm till 12 midnight. These
taxis can also be summoned by telephone for pick-up (tel: 22 34 74). Cars and
drivers for sightseeing can be hired through hotels or travels agencies.
Rickshaws :
Rickshaws (two-seater tricycles) can be a fun way to
see the city. The fare should be negotiated beforehand.
Buses :
There are buses, mini-buses and three-wheeler tempos
that ply on fixed routes at regular intervals. Last bus around 8 pm. City Buses
as well as those going to Kirtipur, Banepa, Dhulikhel, and Thankot leave from
Tripureswor near the stadium. Long-distance buses to different parts of Nepal
leave from the Gongabu Bus park located on the Ring Road on the north side of
town.
A comprehensive network of road & communication are
under construction in the Kingdom. Pokhara Valley is linked with Kathmandu by a
picturesque highway, Prithvi Rajmarga. Pokhara, 200 Kilometers west from
Kathmandu, is also linked with the Indian border town of Sunauli by another
highway named Siddhartha Rajmarga. One can drive from Kathmandu right to the far
eastern border of Nepal connecting through Mahendra Rajmarga. One can drive from
Kathmandu right to the far eastern border of Nepal connecting through Mahendra
Rajmarga also known as East-West Highway. The interior parts of the country is
also linked with a number of motorable roads. Buses for the different parts of
the country are available at the Central Bus Terminal which is located at Gangbu.
Cars, jeeps, mini-buses and other vehicles are also available on hire in
Kathmandu.
Planes :
Given Nepal's mountainous terrain, aircraft play a
vital role in the country's transport network, especially in the west where
planes are often used to carry in food during the winter. Of the forty towns and
villages with airstrips, almost half are two or more days' walk from a road..
Most flights begin or end in Kathmandu, but two other airports in the Tarai -
Nepalgung in the west, Biratnagar in the east - serve as secondary hubs. Popular
destinations, such as Lukla in the Everest region, get up to six flights a day,
while obscure airstrips may receive only one flight a week. Some operate only
seasonally. In 1992, three new airlines - Nepal Airways, Everest Air and Necon
Air - joined RNAC in providing services within Nepal.
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Rentals :
Cars :
Private vehicles give the maximum freedom to visit
remote places at your own pace with a minimum of time and hassle. The main
drawback is cost, aggravated by the high price of petrol. There are two rental
car offices on Durbar Marg: Hertz, represented by Gorkha Travels and Avis,
represented by AmEx representative Yeti Travels. Major hotels and travel
agencies can also arrange car rentals.
Hiring a taxi for the day is much cheaper and seldom
difficult to arrange. You'll need to discuss your itinerary and determine the
price in advance. You can arrange for the driver to drop you off and pick you up
several hours later at the end of a day hike. Hotel staff may be able to help
you arrange a taxi, or just start asking taxis on the street. Private cars with
drivers looking for work are usually waiting in the narrow streets but they tend
to be more expensive than taxis.
A taxi can also be hired to take you to long-distance
destinations like Pokhara, Jiri, Tansen, Lumbini, or Chitwan, though this may
require a bit of a search for a willing driver. Sharing the cost with several
others makes this kind of travel reasonable; trekkers might consider taking a
taxi to the trailhead rather than spending an exhausting day (or night) on the
bus. Renting a taxi is definitely cheaper than a rental car; bargain hard and
ask Nepalis to help you calculate the price.
Motorbikes :
Motorcycles are available for rent at several shops who
are located on Dharma Path south of New Road, near the Frensh House, and there
are a few in Thamel. Motorbikes range from 100cc to 250 cc, the largest
available. You'll need the extra power if you're planning trips uphill with a
passenger. You're responsible for returning the bike in the same condition you
received it, so check it out carefully before taking it. Some shops will ask for
your passport as a security deposit. A Nepal or International Driver's License
is required for motorcycle rental. If you have a valid foreign license you can
get a Nepali license within a few days from the police station at Hanuman Dhoka.
Motorcycles can be fun, but you need to be extra cautious in the hectic traffic
of the city, and equally careful of ducks, chickens, dogs, and children in
villages. Don't be overly optimistic in planning how much territory you can
cover. Nepal's roads are rough, and long journeys are more tiring than you might
expect. It's best to go slowly and stop for lots of tea breaks.
Bicycles :
Renting a cycle is the ideal way to get around if
you're slightly adventurous and reasonably in shape. It's also a good way to
train for a trek. Cycling's advantages are unequaled by any other means of
transport: it takes you out in open air through the countryside, at a pace
faster than walking but still slow enough to enjoy. A clunky old rented cycle
may not be sleek, but it frees you from worrying about theft or damage when you
lock it up to go exploiring on foot.
For a basic bike look for cycles lined up on the
pavement in Thamel, around Freak Street, and in Bhotahiti. Rental fees are
around Rs15 per day if the market is tight but during the off-season you can
easily bargain it down. If you're renting for a full week you should get a
substantial discount no deposit is necessary, just give your hotel name and room
number.
These bikes are Indian or Chinese models, sturdy
clunkers of the type you haven't ridden since you were a kid. Get a Chinese-made
bike (Flying Pigeon and Phoenix brands) if you can; they're better made and more
comfortable than Indian models, and worth the higher rate. In tourist season
good bikes are hard to find, so you might want to rent one the preceding
eveninig if you're planning a trip. Check them over carefully before renting,
looking for bald or leaky tires, wobbly wheels, bad brakes, loose or
uncomfortable seats, loose chains. Good brakes and a bell are essential; a light
is nice if you'll be riding at night. Getting a reasonable machine will save the
trouble of having repairs done out on the road.
If you do get a breakdown look for a streetside repair
shop - sometimes no more than an orange crate, a strip of rubber, and a pump.
Mechanics working on motorcycles may also take the time to help you out and fix
your bike. Shops may have an air pump leaning against the doorway. You can pump
your own tires for a minimal charge of one sukaa (25 paisa) per tire.
Cycles come equipped with built-in locks on the back
wheel. Only for a mountain bike will you need more than this. At places like
Swayarnbunath, children swarm around new arrivals in a sort of blackmail,
fighting for the privilege of "watching" the bike. If you decline, you
may find your tires mysteriously deflated upon your retum.
Alcohol :
Home distillation is an ancient practice in Nepal,
still managing to hold its own against modern distilleries. The Nepali
brand-name hard liquors are best avoided. Often adulterated with chemicals they
can give a quick headache. Imported brands are expensive. The Nepali beer market
is booming, with at least four local brands and two local licensees on the
market.
The finest alcohol is homemade stuff. Raksi is potent,
exhilarating and smooth as velvet. To test for good raksi, toss a small amount
on a fire and see if it burns. Women of a household pride themselves on their
liquor, and will put the most effort and time into making raksi for a big
celebration like a wedding. Different grains produce different flavors: rice
raksi is rich and smooth, kodo (millet) is stronger and more fiery.
Less potent is home-brewed beer, land (Nepali) or chang
(Tibetan), a whitish, thin drink made from rice or millet with a refreshing
sweet-sour taste. A variation served in mountain regions is tongba, fermented
mash which is placed in a wooden container and mixed with hot water. You drink
from a bamboo straw, sipping the liquid and avoiding the bits of millet; the hot
water is refilled several times, and nursing a flask of tongba is a nice sport
for a cold evening.
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Customs and airports :
Green Channel :
Passengers arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport
(TIA) without any dutiable goods can proceed through the Green Channel for quick
clearance without a baggage check. If you are carrying dutiable articles, you
have to pass through the Red Channel for detailed customs clearance.
Import :
Apart from used personal belongings, visitors are
allowed to bring to Nepal free of duty cigarettes (200) or cigars (50),
distilled liquor (one 1.15 liter bottle), and film (15 rolls). You can also
bring in the following articles free of duty on condition that you take them out
with you when you leave: binoculars, movie or video camera, still camera, laptop
computer, and portable music system.
Export :
It is illegal to export objects over 100 years old (sacred
images, paintings, manuscripts) that are valued for culture and religious
reasons. Visitors are advised not to purchase such items as they are Nepal's
cultural heritage and belong here. The Department of Archaeology (tel: 21 37 01,
21 37 02) at Ramshah Path near Singha Durbar has to certify all metal statues,
sacred paintings and similar objects before they are allowed to be sent or
carried out of the country. Handicraft dealers and travel agents are able to
assist you in this process. For more information on customs matters, contact the
Chief Customs Administrator, TIA Customs Office; tel: 47 01 10, 47 22 66.
Airport Tax :
Passengers departing from the Tribhuvan International
Airport are required to pay an airport tax of Rs. 600 if going to SAARC
countries (Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka) and Rs.
700 to all other international destinations. Domestic airport tax is Rs. 50.
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Money :
The Nepali rupiyaa or rupee is issued in notes of Rs1,
Rs2, Rs5, Rs10, Rs20, Rs 50, Rs 100, Rs100 and Rs 1.000. Different colors make
them easy to distinguish, and amounts are written in English on the back side.
Small change or paisa, which come in 5, 10,25, and 50 paisa coins and larger
one-roepee coins, is more confusing. The 25-paisa coin is called a sukaa;the 50
paisa coin is a mohar. Only Nepali numbers are written on them and many are so
worn as to be indecipherable, so you need to learn them by size. If you get
confused, you can always thrust a handful of change forward and have the
shopkeeper pick out the change. Coins are worth very little, but they're handy
for paying for the use of a bicycle pump, and as donations for beggars.
Nepalis have an aversion to old, worn bills.
Shopkeepers are happy to give them as change but are loathe to accept them,
though the note is still valid. You can smilingly insist, try slipping it in a
large wad of bills, or turn it into the old-bill window on the ground floor of
the Supermarket on New Road, a special bank branch set up just for this purpose.
Newspapers :
Despite only 40-percent literacy, Nepal boasts an
astonishing 460 newspapers - an outgrowth of two noble Brahmanic traditions,
punditry and gossip. Of the handful printed in English, only the Rising Nepal is
widely circulated, and outside Kathmandu it's always a day or more out of date.
It's pretty much a government mouthpiece, but still manages in spite of itself
to shed light on current events in Nepal. The weekly Independent (published
Wednesdays, available only in the capital) covers issues with greater candour
and depth, but it's aimed at political insiders. Foreign publications such as
the International Herald Tribune, USA Today, Asian Wall Street Journal, Time and
Newsweek are sold in Kathmandu and Pokhara, but nowhere else. For British
newspapers, try the British Council in Kathmandu.
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Radio &
Television :
The government-run Radio Nepal is by far the most
influential of the nation's media, catering to the illiterate majority of
Nepalis and reaching villages well beyond the reach of any newspaper. With a
daily format of traditional and pop music, news bulletins, English language
lessons, dramas and development messages, it has been a powerful force for
cultural and linguistic unity, though demands by various ethnic groups for
programming in their native tongues has recently become a hot political topic.
The station carries English-language news bulletins daily at 8 am and 8 pm, and
relays the BBC World Service in Kathmandu from 11pm to 12.15am. If you're
traveling with a short-wave radio, you can pick up the World Service at 15.31,
11.75 and 9.74MHz.
Nepal-Tv, with transmitters in Kathmandu, Pokhara and
Biratnagar, broadcasts Nepali and Indian shows mainly in the early morning and
evening, with the news in English at 9.40pm -check the daily schedule in the
Rising Nepal
STAR satellite TV, out of Hong Kong, beams MTV, BBC
World Service TV and various American reruns.
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Medical Treatment :
Hospitals :
Kathmandu has the country's best medical facilities,
but for anything serious you'll want to fly to Bangkok or back home. Nepali
hospitals are crowded and very basic. For most illnesses consult a Nepali doctor
or visit a private clinic. CIWEC Clinic (tel. 410-983) in Baluwatar near the
Russian Embassy is staffed by Western physicians and nurses and provides
competent care, but a visit is expensive by Nepali standards, $25 plus lab fees.
Nepal International Clinic (tel. 412-842) across from the Royal Palace is run by
a Nepali doctor who studied in Canada. Both clinics have a doctor on-call after
hours for emergencies. Kalimati Clinic near the Soaltee Oberoi Hotel (tel.
270-923) is open 1300-1430 Mon. and Fri., Wed. 10.00-11.30 and 13.30-14.30. It
offers immunizations, including gamma globulin and post-exposure rabies vaccine,
but doesn't generally diagnose illnesses.
For emergency treatment, hospitalization, and surgery
the best facility is Patan Hospital in Lagankhel (tel. 522-2781522-295). Also
known as Shanta Bhawan, it was founded and is still partially supported by the
United Mission to Nepal. There's also an inexpensive dental clinic here. Next
choice is the Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital in Maharajganj (tel.
412-3031412-404). Avoid the government-run Bir Hospital near the Tundhikhel
(tel. 221-9881221 -119); it has expensive high-tech equipment like a Catscan but
a chronic shortage of drugs and basic supplies.
In Pokhara, ill travelers should visit the Western
Regional Hospital (tel. 20066), which does stool tests and provides treatment
Larger Terai towns and district centers may have a government hospital, but out
trekking, medical care is basically up to you-a good reason to carry medical
essentials and be familiar with them.
Pharmacies :
Plenty of pharmacies are scattered about town, the
biggest on New Road and near hospitals. If your problem is uncomplicated you may
want to get an inexpensive stool test at one of Kathmandu's local labs and
doctor yourself. No prescriptions are necessary and you can get a wide range of
inexpensive medication, most of it made in India.
Ayurvedic medicines based on the ancient Indian system
of herbal remedies are frequently used. An Ayurvedic practitioner popular with
Westerners is Dr. Mana Bajracharya, whose office is behind the Mahaboudha stupa
in a warren of buildings behind Bir Hospital. Tibetan medicine with its
thousands of herbal-based remedies is also popular; the largest concentration of
Tibetan doctors is in Boudhanath.
Helicopter rescue :
For serious medical emergencies when a patient can't
walk or be carried out, a helicopter rescue can be arranged through the Royal
Nepalese Army or by a private company. The service is expensive and must be paid
for by the rescue. Your embassy or trekking agency may vouch for you but they
won't pick up the tab a good reason to arrange for comprehensive trip insurance
beforehand.
The helicopter company's must receive assurance of
payment before it dispatches a flight. This will be provided by your trekking
agency if you're with a group; embassies usually provide this for their citizens,
but they may need to contact the family in advance. Registering at your embassy
be fore a trek greatly expedites this process. Once the helicopter takes off,
you're liable for the costs even if it doesn't find you.
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Books and
Bookstores :
Kathmandu is an international center for books on
Himalayan regions, especially Nepal and Tibet There are probably 200 titles on
Nepal and just as many on Tibet and Vajrayana Buddhism. other regional
specialties include mountaineering the Himalaya, Tantrism, Hinduism, India and
Asian travel accounts by Westerners, plus dozens of lavish photographic books on
the Himalaya, surely one of the most photographed regions on earth.
Few travelers realize that Kathmandu's bookstores offer
bargains on new as well as used books. Some are sold at Asian edition prices,
35-50% less than in the West Locally published books are remarkably cheap, and
Indian editions are reasonable. You can find specialty books long out of print
or unavailable in the West. Best of all are the many discounted books sold on
remainder, often of popular titles which are being pushed off the market by new
arrivals. You can get especially good bargains on expensive photographic books.
Kathmandu's oldest booksellers, Ratna Pushtak Bhandar
in Bhotahiti, operates Ratna Book Distributors in Bagh Bazaar near the French
Cultural Center. They publish Kallash and the Biblloteca Himalayica series of
inexpensive reprints of rare classics on the Himalaya. Another place to check is
Himalayan Booksellers in Bagh Bazaar (also with a Thamel outlet). Mandala
Bookpoint on Kanti Path has an excellent selection of regional books. Pilgrim's
Bookhouse in Thamel has a vast selection with an emphasis on New Age topics and
Eastern religions. A smaller branch up the street stocks rare books on all sorts
of Asian subjects. Educational Booksellers on the Tundikhel has a good range of
Penguins, modern fiction, and children's books, plus shelves of textbooks and
business books, including Asian editions of computer software manuals retailing
for half the Western price.
Kathmandu's used book shops are famous for their
eclectic selection provided by Western travelers. In essence they're like a
perennially rotating library; you can sell books back for 50% of the original
price and buy more. Shelves are stocked with a genuine cross-section of
travelers reading. Generally quantity predominates over quality; thick
historical novels are popular buys for long treks.
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Souvenirs :
Being a country rich in culture and traditional art
forms, Nepal has a very wide range of souvenirs to choose from. Most are
skillfully made handicrafts with colorful designs; however, practical items such
as Nepalese clothes or folk music cassettes and records are also popular among
tourists. Some of Nepal's best known and most popular souvenir items are listed
here along with a brief description of where to go and what to look for when
buying these items.
Thangkas :
As mentioned in the section of culture, thangkas are
religious paintings usually depicting Hindu and Buddhist deities. There are many
different types and qualities of thangka available in the Kathmandu Valley but
probably the best value for money can be found in Bhaktapur where many
professional ateliers devote their en tire time to producing hand painted
masterpieces. Besides Bhaktapur, good thangkas can also be found in the Jhochhe,
Thamel and Hanuman Dhoka areas of Kathmandu.
Batik and Oil Paintings :
While on the subject of painting, miniature oil
paintings and batik art have become very popular over the last few years. Batik
paintings usually depict everyday village scenes such as a girl carrying a baby
on her back, porters carrying their loads etc. Most souvenir shops have a number
of different sizes and designs, mostly unframed; it is also possible to order
one's own design if sufficient advance notice is given.
Oil paintings have a charm of their own and are
especially successful in depicting landscapes and mountain sceneries. An
interesting variation is found in oil paintings painted on the reverse side of
the 'nanglos' - circular hand-woven trays used by Nepalese women to sort rice.
Yet another form of painting is found in greeting cards
and consists of oil or water colors painted on leaves of pipal tree. The most
common design shows Buddha in meditation; bird and flower designs are also
available. Leaf greeting cards are attractively presented and usually contain a
brief description of the making process.
Carpets :
After thangkas and paintings, carpets are probably
Nepal's second most popular souvenir item. As making a good carpet requires a
lot of work and materials, this can be better understood by taking a cursory
glance at the making process.
It is woven entirely by hand on huge handlooms.
Chemical dyes are also used instead of vegetable dyes. In places such as
Jawalakhel and Boudhanath it is possible to see the entire making process.
The smallest size of carpet available is sixteen inches
square, a size usually used for chair coverings. The price depends on whether a
chemical or vegetable dye is used in the making process. A chemical dye is
cheaper but has brighter colors, making the carpet seem slightly less authentic
even though the quality remains the same in every other way.
The most popular size of carpet is three feet by six
feet, although longer sizes are also available. Carpet designs vary from
fire-breathing dragons to Buddhist deities and geometric patterns. Apart from
the above mentioned areas, one can also buy carpets in the lndrachowk and Durbar
Marg areas of Kathmandu and at Mangal Bazaar in Patan.
Handicrafts:
Besides carpets, a variety of other traditional and
religious items such as wooden, ivory or bronze prayer wheels, magic amulets,
prayer boxes and ritual bells, as well as practical items like the coats, belts
and buckles are also made usually by hand. Souvenir shops are found in the
shopping arcades of most of Kathmandu's larger hotels as well as in Boudhanath,
Swayambhu and Jawalakhel.
Dolls and Puppets:
Dolls and puppets are some other souvenir items that
accurately reflect Nepalese culture and lifestyles. Beautifully colored and
available in many different sizes, Nepalese dolls show traditional costumes of
different ethnic groups, often carrying, in miniature, the tools of their trade,
for example, a plough or sickle. String puppets usually represent the masked
dancers, as one sees in the festivals like Indra Jatra or Gal Jatra. Although
available in most souvenir shops, the best place to buy a doll or puppet is in
Makhan Tote, the paved road leading from Hanuman Dhoka to Indrachowk.
Rice Paper Prints:
Like carpets and thangkas, rice paper prints are
another traditional art form that have survived the passing of centuries and
again gained popularity, this time as souvenirs rather than religious
manuscripts. Rice paper is made by hand from rice husks and is well suited for
printing purpose due to its high absorbative properties. The actual prints,
usually of deities or religious monuments, are made by wooden blocks rubbed with
a thin layer of black ink. Nowadays colored prints are also made, though these
are naturally more expensive. Rice paper prints can be purchased along with the
wooden blocks if required, in the Basantpur area of Kathmandu, as well as at
many souvenir shops in the Valley's three main cities.
Nepalese Clothes:
Nepalese clothes, both traditional and modern, are
common and easily available souvenirs. Beginning at the head, Nepalese caps or 'topis'
are available in the lndrachowk and Asan areas of Kathmandu, as well as in the
market areas of most of Nepal's towns and cities. One can either buy a black
topi (popularly known as 'Bhadgaonle topi' as it was first made in Bhadgaon) or
a colorful printed cap, known here as 'dhaka topi'.
Nepalese woolen jackets are also very popular,
especially during the colder months, and can be purchased in most tourist shops
at a reasonable price. There is a variety of different colors and designs and
although size fittings are not given, most shopkeepers are hapy to let potential
buyers try on a number of different jackets until they find a suitable one. As
all jackets are made by hand, it is also possible to design one's own jacket at
a tailoring shop.
Whereas jackets are suitable for both ladies and
gentlemen, pashmina shawls are mainly a ladies' souvenir item. The name pashmina
refers to the extremely soft and warm underhair of a variety of mountain goat
found in the upper regions of Nepal.
Pashmina shawls come in different colors and designs,
the natural color being a dark ash-gray. Scarves and mufflers of the same
material are also available. For the warmer months, cotton garments such as the
traditional daura (shirt) and suruwal (trousers) worn by the men, are available
in most bazaar areas.
Shoes and slippers complete an outfit of the Nepalese
clothes; velvet, flannel and cloth designs are commonly found, many of them also
colorfully embroidered. Often, the soles are made of thick cord rather than the
synthetic materials one usually sees. For ladies, cotton saris and other clothes
are both cheap and attractive. Many souvenir shops, particularly in the shopping
arcades of larger hotels, sell different varieties of silk shirts and T-shirts
with the printed designs such as traditional dragons, temples and mountains.
Bags and Purses:
Although not the traditional Nepalese items, handbags
and purses are practical and attractive souvenirs. They are usually made of
velvet, wool, cotton or leather and often include intricate embroidery work in
their designs. Another variation on this subject is passport pouches made to
hang around the neck inside one's shirt or jacket.
Idols and Images:
Miniature replicas of Nepal's many Buddhist and Hindu
deities have became one of Nepal's most famous souvenir items. Bronze or brass
images are made by a wax modeling process known as the 'cire perdue' method.
This process involves first making a clay mould, into which the molten metal is
poured. The idol is then sanded and smoothed to remove rough edges. A large
variety of metals, as well as wood carved idols are commonly available in most
souvenir shops. Stone images are naturally more difficult to make and are thus
rarer and more expensive. Although most of the stone and metal images available
in the shopping centers, it is forbidden to take out of the country any artifact
more than one hundred years old without specific written permission from the
Archaeology Department. Artistically designed miniatures of Pashupati temple,
Swayambhu stupa and Krishna temple are also available in both wood and metal.
Miniature Nepalese houses are somewhat rarer but are of equal artistic value,
being made of local materials such as wood, hay and clay.
Khukuris :
Khukuris are long curved knives, made famous by Gurkha
soldiers. Khukuris are also frequently used by the villagers as an all-purpose
weapon. One can buy the khukuris in most Kathmandu souvenir shops or
alternatively at open side stalls in Basantpur, near Hanuman Dhoka. Khukur! has
different types and varieties. The older one contains inside its sheath, two
miniature knives, one serving as a pen knife and the other as a flint for
lightening fires. Some khukuris have elaborately carved handles and sheaths
while others have plain designs. One can also buy miniature khukurjs and khukuri
brooches.
Jewelry, Ornaments and Precious Stones :
Both Nepalese and Tibetan in style and design, many
different types of pendants, bracelets, rings, earrings and bangles can be
bought in nearly all souvenir shops. These are often adorned with such precious
stones as tourmaline, garnet, aquamarine and smoky quartz, all indigenous to
Nepal. Among other indigenous stones to Nepal are coral and turquoise, used both
in religious ceremonies and in ornaments. The best place to buy good quality
jewelry and rings inlaid with precious stones is New Road in the central
Kathmandu.
Folk Music Cassettes and Records :
As mentioned briefly in the chapter on entertainment,
Ratna Recording Corporation has, since the very beginning of its establishment
about twenty years ago, compiled and recorded a large number and variety of
instrumental and vocal folk music cassettes and records. Although all the
recordings are in mono at present, quality and production are good. Ratna
Recording Corporation has its retail shop in Gangapath, between Basantpur and
New Road in the central Kathmandu.
Stamps and Coins :
Popular as souvenirs all over the world, Nepalese
stamps and coins can be purchased in most souvenir shops, probably the best
areas of Kathmandu being New Road and Basantpur. Though Nepalese stamps date
back to 1907, many interesting and colorful sets have since been issued, for
example, mountain, temple, flower and coronation sets to mention just a few.
Besides stamp sets, it is also possible to buy miscellaneous sets containing
fifty or one hundred stamps per packet, either used or mint. In addition to
Nepalese stamps, Mongolian, Tibetan, Chinese and Bhutanese stamp sets are also
common; some of them are quite unique as they are made of silver foil or silk
instead of paper.Various coins of historical interest are also available in the
souvenir shops. High quality tea products of Nepal are becoming popular among
the tourists as a typical souvenir.
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