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It took me a long time to just think about writing a page about Malaysia. Everything just did not seem to be foldable like a storybook. I was going over there for an authentic vacation, meaning plenty of sun block cream and the double pair of sunglasses and swimming Bermudas. I did not even know what was the currency's name (the Runggit), and many other details about the country. It made me feel a little bit like, cool off, relax and enjoy doing nothing.
Moreover, I did not expect anything about Malaysia. The typical Bali Islands were booked exclusively and the remaining destinations were fulfilling almost by the minute. The girl at the agency suggested "Langkawi". I said "What?" She answered amusingly that Langkawi (pronounce Lan-ka-u) was a small island on the East Side of the main peninsula of Malaysia. "Hum! Well, well, let's try" I muttered. This eight-day trip would cost 69,000 yens (about 650$US) including airfare, hotel, the breakfast and the famous escort to the airport. It is a lot cheaper than going to about anywhere in Japan anyway…
DAY #1: What's the weather for tomorrow?
Gilles and I are getting used to the smooth sequence train-bus-plane from our dormitory. This time it is easier to differentiate our first Malaysian flight attendants from their Japanese colleagues once in the plane. Finally, something different from the usual extreme-oriental faces. But Oh! Surprise! The guide who welcomes us at the airport is legally Malaysian but with clear Chinese origins. Chinese immigrated to Malaysia for as long as history can remember and this is why about 30% of the Malaysian population are from Chinese ascendant (another 20% are from India!). He tells us in perfect English that his family ancestors are from Hong Kong. He is able to speak eight languages including Japanese with probably also some Japanese and Malaysian dialects. He is very nice and answers most of our dumb questions. I looked on CNN International about the forecast for Malaysia all the week and it did not look really reliable. It is raining hard at the moment, so I ask what is the weather for tomorrow. He smiles and replies: "It depends on where you are on the island! Don't worry, it is kind of the rainy season. But the rains pour so locally that you still be on the island and run away from the rain by car (or on boat for that matter)." Bewildered, we follow to our hotel named "Barau Bay Resort". He explains the different tours for this week and leaves us in the lobby. There we are! Each room is a little neat and clean bungalow nearby the beach surrounded by luxuriant vegetation. Cool!
DAY #2: Feast on crabs
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Today, we are doing a supposedly ecological tour, which we will bring us in the mist of the Malaysian jungle and its inhabitants. But to be honest, we are not expecting any cannibals or deadly poisonous reptile. We are accompanied by cosmetically charming little Japanese girls, so just forget about the adventurous thrills…
The guide who is the same sympathetic guy from yesterday night drives us to a mangrove jungle by boat. The mangrove is a tree, which has its roots in shallow water, and the upper part stretched out. The fruit looks like a banana and he showed us how the seeds float on the river surface to other insemination areas. It is ecology! Wow!
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As for the indigenes, we dropped the boat nearby a charcoal-producing village. A group of children draw near and Gilles is wild taking photographs. They stand nonchalantly as if they were trained intentionally for that purpose. They are very quiet and nice giving seashells to everyone. The guide explains that the mangroves, which are densely massive, are cut and chiseled by hand to the proper size. Then, the timbers are placed in an igloo made of clay that is heated from the outside for two weeks in order to produce barbecue coals. This technique is entirely manual and leaves its dusty traces on the ground and probably in the lungs of the tribe as well…
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During all this time, we had placed crab nets and we are going back under heavy rain to see if we captured anything. Fortunately, most people got crabs and we are relieved since this will be our lunch. We head for a rain shelter prepared by locals who already have cooked many other types of crustaceans on a barbecue. After eating my share of crabs, I was wondering how much could be a fresh crab on the Tokyo market. The Japanese girls were feasting joyously.
The Eco-tour is finished and we go back to the beach in front of our bungalow. The rain has stopped thus; it is sunbathing time for the rest of the day.
DAY #3: Non-comestible toes
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What a caption for a scuba diving tour: Shrieking Japanese girls feeding lurking sharks' guts. Dead fishes on the menu fortunately… But the sharks, about one-meter long, were not starving as much as it looked. Probably, too many organized tours on this small island faraway from the coast. Hiiiiii! Sugoi! Oriental onomatopoeias. Again, seemingly disappointing event turned out great. Free with my tuba and my diving experience in Australia, I left the Japanese group still floating in their safety jacket like dead fishes…
That feeling of being inside of a marine kaleidoscope and everything is only at a good breath's distance. I plunge into deep water among the coral banks and the bubbling colorful tropical fishes. For hours of looking at every oceanic color, my sinuses full of salty water, it is hard to go back to existence.
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DAY #4: Nothing day?
Today is nothing day. We do nothing.
Well… I thought so.
From our beach, we have an amazing panorama. To the right, mahogany bungalows are lining up on crescendo to that last house built just above the ocean. On the left, a mysterious jungle island tempted me to the point where I took my camera and set charge to found out the enigmatic. Crossing easily the stretch between the beach, I discover beautiful palm trees and rock formations. Crabs are fleeing away in the sand at every footstep. It is paradise.
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I follow the rock formation to the other side of the island painstakingly though. I only have sandals and the reef is cut sharp. At some point, I regret having gone too far. And the island is much bigger than I first thought. I make my way back to the beach and begin to cross the stretch. But something difficult to perceive is happening. The tide is leveling up dangerously. Seawater splashes everywhere and I really wish I were back on the beach relaxing. When I crossed this morning, the water level was at my knee, but now I am agonizing soaked up to my throat and the camera at the top of my arm out of water. The stream of the ocean is strong and I desperately try to reach the beach on the tip of toes. The story goes that I will make it not without fear…
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Well, this time I am doing nothing.
A thunderstorm sparks in the late afternoon. We are profiting of the bad weather to do some "Nanpa" which is a Japanese expression for boys cruising girls during travel and… shyogi, Japanese chess.
DAY #5: Forgotten Birthday
One last time to savors the warmness of the seawater (this time I stay close to the beach) and we are ready to take the plane to Kuala Lumpur. Before, our guide offers us some really good local nougat probably because I liked the fact that we were different from the typical Japanese tourists… The national plane company is Prince Abdhula, so we are not sure what to expect, a plane with golden seats?! Well, it is just a simple small plane for domestic flights. Huuuu!
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In the middle of the downtown, our hotel is nice. We have a first glance to the famous Petronas towers. Hence, we buy two umbrellas in a convenient store and we decide the brave the sudden tropical rainstorm to take a closer look. Gilles finds the way easily through the confusing large boulevard network. The intimidating scooters are everywhere and they are quick in setting the pace of the traffic. I am trying some long pause pictures with some success. Cool! But the twin towers will stay only in the background for tonight.
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Back to the hotel, we eat a superb buffet. Today is my birthday but I almost forgot it myself. Now I am 27 years old in Malaysia. Wow! When I was kid, I calculated the age I would be when 2000 comes and tried to figure out what I would be by then. A millionaire was always the easy guess. And then, we grow up and realize that money does not come by so easily. But one thing I can say now is that with a value of ringgit 3.5 times cheaper than the Japanese yen, I can improvise myself a rich man for one week. The buffet tonight costs only 12 ringgits (about 3$). I saw publicity outside for our room from 130 ringgits (about 40$). This is amazingly economical by Japanese (and any developed country) standard whereas for the same price, we have only a ryokan room for one person. The food is so cheap that I ate a lot when I arrived at Langkawi. Good nature has brought my stomach back to normal after a dessert called "Makin Makinchan", a one-kilo fruity ice melt. Tonight, I eat little of the delicious food and drink quietly my 6 ringgit Perrier mineral water.
DAY #6: Exuberant and arrogant towers
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We are part of yet another Japanese tour to explore the downtown of Kuala Lumpur this morning. Everyone in a splendid bus, we go to the national mosque, a royal palace and its motionless guards (a little copied from Britain). And then comes the nastiest part of the trip, visits to a jewelry store, a sportswear store and a souvenir store. All more expensive than average, and all with the Japanese market in mind. We play the game not without shame. We wasted two hours in these stupid stores while we could be visiting much more interesting buildings. Grrrr!
Once free, we set the pace to regain the lost time. We speed up to the towers finally, the world tallest buildings. They are occupied by Petronas, the state-owned Oil Company. They are huge. According to an architecture book on tall buildings given by my sister, the twin towers plant the equivalent of NINE Empire State buildings in a city comparable in size to San Diego. The windows are designed as continuous horizontal ribbons protected by overhanging shades and the multifaceted stainless steel and glass towers appear lightweight and tropical. Some criticisms in Malaysia say that the current weak economy of the country is due to the cost of the construction of those two towers. One thing is that they are lucky they managed to finish them before the bubble blew up. Unfortunately, there are many other buildings in the city that did not have the same chance, their foundations still lying untouched. The municipality new train's tracks witness the same sad story. Now that the economy is bludgeoning again and it is hoped that they will accomplish what they were dreaming for.
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Kuala Lumpur with its cultural mix of Chinese and Malaysian is unique in the world. The day continues visiting some architecture clearly influenced by the predominant Muslim religion. For my part, I am still studying what is normal day life is in a Muslim civilization. I found quickly a water spray beside the toilet and many times made the remark to Gilles. I finally realized that it was for washing the feet, hands and head according to the Islamic faith.
We enjoyed a Malaysian show in another buffet restaurant. The queen and the king are simulated on the stage and different servants dance and celebrate their union with music. It is a lively show that will imprint itself in my memory. We are leaving tonight back to Japan. I really enjoyed this trip because we did not expect anything but ultimately, Malaysia the country, and its people were delighted in offering the thing we wanted, a pleasant vacation.
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