December 2017

Friday December 1st – Barbados

We had splashed out on a Gatwick hotel the night before the flight. It was a bit run down but only a 15 minute drive to the APH car park which meant a nice relaxed start. I had also booked an Exclusive Lounge where we could relax before the flight. I wasn’t sure what the process was but knew that when we checked in, the next time we saw our luggage would be on the ship. I wondered what baggage labels we would use. When we joined the queue at Gatwick North, we noticed that everyone else had official luggage tags with the relevant info. We had never received any. A P&O staff member was forced to go to Gatwick South terminal and get us some luggage tags. So our check in was delayed for 30 minutes while we stood around. Eventually he returned and we checked in and headed off to the lounge. We had our own security check so didn’t have to line up with the herds. The lounge was quiet and relaxing with snacks, alcohol and newspapers. We chilled out until our flight left at 11.20am (ish). The Thomson aeroplane was packed. You paid for drinks and the in house entertainment was hardly extensive but just enough movies for the flight.

Arriving in Barbados around 4pm (local time), the heat hit us on the runway. We had to board minibuses which took us to Bridgetown and the port. En route we filled in medical forms to say that we didn’t have a cold. Outside, it all looked very familiar from when we had stayed in Barbados back in 2011. In a warehouse in the port, we queued until we were ushered to a rep who took credit card details and our photos and issued us both with cards that would be used to get on and off the ship and to order anything. It was very efficient and we could view our bill on our room TV during the trip. On day 1 they added an £85 debit to each of our bills for tips to the crew. The amount wasn’t as bad as I had feared – about £5.50 a day to be shared by the 1200 strong crew. We also filed through airport type security removing anything metallic and our bags were searched. We had been told by other people that they would confiscate any alcohol and that the suitcases were scanned as well. This turned out to be false.

Finally we boarded the enormous ship. Apparently the difference between a boat and a ship is that a ship has lifeboats. We walked up a ramp, had our ID cards scanned and then got in a lift to the 8th floor (E). When booking a room, we had had three choices – inside with no window, outside with a window with limited visibility or a room with a balcony. The balcony room was £1000 more expensive than just a window so we took a chance and opted for a ‘limited visibility’ room. As it turned out, the top of a lifeboat was just at the bottom of the window and we had a great view outside. The room (E505) contained a Queen sized bed, a kettle, fridge with minibar, long rack to hang clothes and a small bathroom with shower, sink and toilet. There was also storage space for the suitcases. The TV had Sky News, Sky Sports, BBC highlights, ITV highlights, a view from the mast camera and about 150 movies you could play for free (which just gave me the chance to re-watch some old favourites – Fight Club, Dodgeball, Office Space). When we entered we found a large bouquet of flowers and a bottle of champagne on ice as part of our wedding package. There was also a note from our ‘Wedding Co-Ordinator’ Nadia asking to see us tomorrow morning.

We did not have neighbours on either side (we heard later that the cruise was 700 passengers down on the maximum) but what we did have was an Indian cabin steward called Patrick. He seemed to have a second sense of when we were not there. When we returned from breakfast, the bed would be made, room tided, bathroom cleaned and towels changed. On the days at sea, we would use swimming towels. These had been changed when we came back from lunch. When we came back from dinner, the towels would have been changed again and a ship magazine left on the bed (with tomorrow’s info) and a couple of chocolates. Sometimes, I thought he must be hiding in our room. It was always spotless. There was also a free laundrette down the corridor with washing machines and spin dryers.

Our luggage had not arrived by the time we headed for our first evening meal so we turned up in the clothes we had flown in. There were three restaurants all serving the same evening meals. We were told to use the ‘Oriental’ Restaurant on the fifth floor for the first dinner setting of 1830. The second was at 2030. So we walked down to the 5th floor and walked the length of it only to come to a dead end. We had to walk up to the 6th floor and then back down to the 5th floor (because of the ship’s architecture). After that we used the 6th floor and walked down. There were lifts at either end of the ship – about 16 lifts in all. With 17 decks, we used the lifts a lot especially up to the buffet section called Venezia on the 15th floor. It was a ‘lift roulette’ every time you hailed one. You didn’t know which of the 8 would arrive – in front or behind you. Then there would be a mad dash to get in or wait for the next one. Our room was near one set of lifts.

At the Oriental restaurant, we were assigned a table to use (Table 41) but on the first night we could sit anywhere. It was a menu service whereby you told a waiter what you wanted a s a starter and main course from a menu that changed every night. Sometimes, there were themed meals as well. If you wanted a drink you just handed over your card and then signed a receipt (Your cabin number was not on the card – because you also used it to access your room). In the bars or outside, you just waved a waiter over and ordered your drinks. They would also take the card to ring up the bill and get you to sign a receipt. I enjoyed the meals but the quantities were smaller than the help yourself buffets upstairs.

Tonight, according to the menu collection they gave us at the end of the cruise, I had Crispy Pulled Pork and Sirloin Steak. Wendy had Atlantic Prawn Cocktail and Salmon. There were numerous desserts. After the meal we explored the ship and got lost a few times. Because it was December, the ship was decorated with Christmas trees etc. Our luggage arrived and we unpacked, grateful that all the wedding stuff had arrived. We were both tired from the long day and enjoyed the champagne in the room.

Saturday December 2nd - Barbados

2011 Barbados Trip

The P&O guide said “Beautiful beaches, warm blue sea and sun-drenched days, Barbados offers all the features of a tropical island. Its people are especially warm and welcoming and there is still an inescapable colonial ‘feel’ that adds to the island’s unique atmosphere and special style”

Barbados is the most easterly island in the West Indies, out of the chain of Leeward and Windward Islands. The island stands in splendid isolation with the powerful Atlantic Ocean on its east coast and the clear, calm waters of the Caribbean Sea on the south and west coast. Measuring 21 miles long and 14 miles at its widest point, the island is about the same size as the Isle of Wight. Mount Hillaby is the highest point at 1115ft. The temperature hardly varies from 24-27’C and humidity is pleasantly low. From its founding in 1627 to its independence in 1966, the island was a British colony and, unlike the rest of its Caribbean neighbours, was never taken by force. It has an endearing blend of British and West Indian culture.

Having explored Barbados thoroughly, we did not feel the need to do it again, but the ship would remain in port for another night so the other passengers could fly in. They would spend an extra night in Barbados at the end of the cruise. The day in port did give me a chance to do some more scuba diving with Dive West Side with whom I dived before.

Before being picked up, we got to experience our first breakfast on board in the Venezia buffet section on the 15th floor. Before you could enter any restaurant you had to use hand gel. The breakfast spread was impressive – anything from full English, continental fruit, cheese and cold cuts, fish, breads and tailor made omelettes. I’m afraid I got into the habit of having a full breakfast every morning – bacon, sausages, fried eggs or scrambled, fried bread, beans or tomatoes, and sometimes black or white pudding along with a couple of croissants. And then I’d go back for more!

I was picked up at the port by Errol at 0830 and driven to their base to pick up some scuba gear and meet a German-Canadian man and an American couple who would be diving as well. We then headed to the boat moored off a downtown beach and waded out to it. I could see our cruise ship in the distance. We did two dives. The first was “Old Port” in the sea near the Hilton Hotel. There was a strong current and we did a drift dive down to 30 metres for 45 minutes. 1 turtle was spotted amongst the nice soft coral. Dive 2 was ‘Astor’ just off the old fort. This was much better. 55 minutes long down to 20 metres. I saw a baby turtle and a stingray but the real find was spotting an octopus in a hole with just his head sticking out. The fan coral on the dive was excellent. It is always good to get back into diving. I hadn’t dived since Cape Verde in January. I was back for a late lunch before walking into town to buy some new sneakers at Woolworths! Woolworths had gone bust in the UK years ago but it still existed here.

At 1630 we met up with Nadia the Wedding Coordinator (she also ran the Reception) who took us to ‘The Glasshouse’ for a glass of wine and explained what was going to happen tomorrow. She then took us up to the Ivory Suite where it would take place next to the Spa where Wendy booked herself in for ‘girlie stuff’ tomorrow morning. Afterwards, we went to the photography office to arrange the DVD recording and photographer for the day. There would be 3 marriages tomorrow. Ours would be second at 1530. Patrick, our cabin steward also came and took away our wedding clothes for a pressing b to iron out the suitcase wrinkles before the ceremony.

Before dinner, there was a practice lifeboat drill for the entire ship. We had to pick up our life jackets from our cabin, put them on and then head for our muster station. There we had our barcodes zapped from our cards to prove that we had attended it. Anyone that missed the drill was given a separate more lengthy drill two days later. Someone explained the procedure over the tannoy. Every cruise ship does this and I made sure I didn’t utter the word ‘Titanic’.

After the drill we headed for the Oriental Restraurant and that night we sat on Table 41 and met Anne and John who would become good friends over the fortnight. There were also a couple of middle aged women and another couple around retirement age. These four were strongly opinionated and moaned a lot. By the next night all four no longer showed up at our table I must have said something! Wendy and I both had the Atlantic Prawn cocktail starter which was always excellent. I had Grilled Blue Shark with chickpea fritters and Cray Fish Salsa. Wendy had the Pan-fried chicken breast.

The Captain’s Log read “As the sun went down, newly embarked guests could enjoy the spectacle of Queen Mary 2 sail away, waving goodbye to the liner as she made her way out of port. Shortly after, it was time for the Azura to depart and by 19:02 all of Azura’s guests and crew were on board. The local pilot then boarded to assist the Bridge Team with the departure. The Officer of the Watch called down to the Engine Control Room to request engines, thrusters and steering to be transferred to Bridge Control. With engines ready, the mooring teams were dispatched to start letting go the mooring lines. The last mooring line was let go at 20:23 and Captain Hoyt used all six of Azura’s thrusters to move the vessel bodily off the berth before setting the engines astern to back the vessel out of the harbour. Once inside the swinging basin, he then swung the bow to Starboard and set the engines ahead to drive the ship out of the breakwater and into open sea, setting Northerly course towards Antigua. Weather: Cloudy with sunny spells, Temperature: 31’C. Wind: Easterly Force 4.”

Sunday December 3rd – At Sea

Captain’s Log “Around midnight, Azura navigated through the St Lucia Channel as she passed between St Lucia and Martinique. She then altered course to the North as she continued on her passage towards Antigua, passing to the west of Dominica. Sunday marked Azura’s first sea day and guests could settle into the Caribbean mood with sunshine and temperatures well into the high twenties on the open deck. Weather: Partially cloudy, sunny. Temperature 28’C. Wind: Light airs.”

This morning, we had arranged for a champagne breakfast to be brought to our room at 8am. Looking out of the cabin window, we could see that we were at sea with no land in sight. A lady knocked at our door and brought in a trolley laden with goodies. There were meats and cheeses, fruit, yoghurt, bread and croissants, orange juice, tea and coffee and plenty of it, along with half a bottle of champagne which we saved until later that morning.

Mid morning, I took Wendy up to the Spa to get her hair done and other various bits that girlies need attention to. I was free to explore the boat for a couple of hours, have a beer, sunbathe, read and generally relax. Everything was sorted and there was no rushing around in a last minute panic. The wedding clothes were returned and I made sure I had everything ready including the rings.

When Wendy returned, we went up to the Venezia buffet section for a light lunch (still stuffed from the breakfast) and back in the cabin we had the champagne and got our clothes on. Wendy’s hairdresser had done a wonderful job with her hair. She would wear a twenties style cream dress with cream shoes. I had ordered an ivory coloured ‘pimp’ suit’ from Los Angeles (baggy trousers, long jacket, red waistcoat and braces, ivory shirt) and added wine coloured shoes. The suit had been adjusted by a Turkish tailor in Norwich who had done an excellent job.

Around 3pm, as the ceremony time approached I left Wendy and walked to The Glasshouse to meet Nadia who would escort me to the Ivory Suite. She was late and I wondered if I was in the wrong place. Passengers would walk past and wonder why I was dressed up in the middle of the day and not in a T-shirt and shorts. Tanya finally arrived and we caught the lift to the 19th floor and entered the ceremony room. It had been decorated very tastefully with two huge bouquets of red and white flowers.. Red rose petals had been dropped over the white surfaces. There were a couple of rows of chairs. The colours of the room matched our wedding clothes (Wendy was delighted).

I was introduced to the female Medical Officer that would act as the other witness along with Nadia. Captain Hoyt was also there dressed up in his white ceremonial uniform and I had a chat with him. The ship’s blurb said “Captain Evans Hoyt grew up in countries across the world (he told me he was American but grew up in Morocco), travelling with his parents who were in the Diplomatic Service. After graduating from high school in Rome, he received a congressional appointment to the US Merchant Marine Academy in New York. Upon obtaining a deck officer’s licence, he shipped out to the Bering Sea of Alaska on anchor handling tugs, progressing through the rank to Master on a variety of vessels ranging from cargo ships and tankers to military auxiliaries and research and finally on passenger vessels. These included expedition ships, square riggers and a classic two stack liner, before moving on to command some of the largest and most modern cruise vessels in the world. When not working at sea, Captain Hoyt lives abroad and voyages with his wife Rebecca on his own cutter-rigged sailing yacht.” Tough life.

There was a knock at the door and Anne and John, our Oriental table mates stuck their heads around the door not sure if the ceremony was over. They were dressed in their tropical beach wear but were ushered in to watch it. Meanwhile, Wendy had asked Patrick, our cabin steward to accompany her to the room. He had never been asked this before and was very honoured.

Wendy was fashionably late but finally arrived and was escorted into the Ivory Suite by Patrick as Bob Marley’s ‘Three Little Birds’ played. She looked gorgeous and I knew why I loved her so much and why I was getting married. We smiled and joined hands in front of the Captain who started with a short lesson about marriage. When it came to the first part of the service, I must have switched off because the Captain was asking me to state my name and he got no answer. Everyone laughed when I finally zoned in.

The ceremony was short and sweet, not worrying about anyone disagreeing with the marriage, saying our vows, exchanging rings. The photographer darted around the room during the service. And then it was all over and we kissed and we were husband and wife. Champagne was offered to everyone except the Captain who drank orange juice. We signed the paperwork (which would be registered in Bermuda) with our witnesses and Captain Hoyt and had photos taken of everyone. It had been a lovely ceremony and we were so glad we had decided to do it this way.

We were then whisked off by the photographer for the next hour for photos around the ship. The girl doing the DVD also took footage. Sometime in-between the photos, we were lead to the Bridge and allowed in where we met Captain Hoyt again who explained how the ship was steered and how it was guided into port and moored with separate controls at either end. The bridge was narrow but long enough to try ten-pin bowling. Not many passengers ever get the chance to visit the bridge but this was a perk of getting married on board. It made Wendy’s day (after getting married to me of course). As we were getting photos taken, other passengers would congratulate us.

Finally, the photos were over and we were left alone. We took some photos of our own, giddy with the champagne and the whole experience. Returning to the cabin, we took off our wedding clothes and then realised that we hadn’t taken a photo on Wendy’s phone to send to family and friends so we hurriedly dressed again, headed for the Atrium and grabbed a passenger to snap a photo for us.

Tonight (ironically) was the first ‘Black Tie’ dress code of “Dinner jacket, tuxedo or dark suit and tie for gentlemen, ball gown, trouser suit or cocktail dress for ladies”. Wendy kept her wedding dress on. I switched to my formal black suit. At 6pm was “The Captain’s Gala Reception” at the Atrium where he made a welcome speech. A free glass of red wine was offered to everyone (I managed to blag two). Since Wendy still had her wedding dress on, she attracted a lot of attention and well wishes. We had our photos taken with the Captain who thankfully still remembered us, having conducted three weddings that day.

Originally, we had thought of booking a special meal at the Epicurean Restaurant tonight, but with everything going on today, it seemed a shame to do everything on the same day, so we booked our ‘special meal’ for the last night. So tonight we were in the Oriental with Anne and John for starters of Cream of Cauliflower Soup and Fried Goat’s Cheese Crottin and a main course of Marco’s (who?) Classic Beef Wellington with a Wild Mushroom and Madeira Duxelle accompanied by Dauphinoise Potatoes, Buttered Broccoli and Vegetable Panache. I think a White and Dark Chocolate Mousse Cake followed.

What I do remember was passing on any evening entertainment and having a quiet night in front of the TV. We were both shattered! During the evening, there was a knock at the door. It was Patrick with another bottle of champagne, some snacks and a bowl of fruit. “This is a present from the crew” he said. We saved that for the last night.

Monday December 4th – Antigua

Captain’s Log: “In the early hours of Monday morning, Azura passed to the west of Guadeloupe on her journey North. Clement weather made for enjoyable conditions during the voyage with slight seas and light winds combining with negligible swell allowing for a smooth arrival at St Johns. Azura made her approaches to the island from the South. ‘Stand By Below’ was rung on the engines at 0545 and the pilot boarded shortly after. Captain Hoyt took control of the vessel and guided her skilfully into the narrow buoyed channel that leads into the port of St Johns. Once safely moored and port clearance granted, guests were then free to go shore and explore Antigua. As is typical in Antigua, Azura was met with the welcoming sound of a Caribbean steel drum band, lending the berth a carnival atmosphere which continued throughout the day. Weather: Partially cloudy, sunny. Temperature: 29’C. Wind: South easterly Force 3.”

The P&O guide said “Antigua famously boasts of a beach for every day of the year, with water sparkling in every shade of blue. The beaches are not all that this versatile island has to offer. Take a jeep trip off road, discover the island’s lush forests, swing through the treetops, visit the historical dockyard.”

The ’beach with an island in the middle’ is a great way to describe this charming Caribbean island. Antigua with its little sisters, Barbuda and Redonda, forms the largest and most developed of the four British Leeward Islands. Roughly circular in shape, the island is 12 miles in diameter and has some of the finest beaches in the Caribbean – more than 350 of them – with gleaming pink-white sand backed by gently waving palms. Temperatures average 25-30’C. Christopher Columbus ‘discovered’ Antigua on his second voyage in 1493 and named it after the church of Santa Maria la Antigua in Seville. It was colonised by the British in 1632 who set up sugar plantations worked by slaves. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Antigua was the principal British naval base in the Eastern Caribbean and it was here that Nelson re-fitted his ships during his chase of the French navy which ended at Trafalgar. Antigua achieved full independence in 1981 and is a member of the Commonwealth.

2015 Antigua Trip

We had spent a week in Antigua recently in 2015 and really enjoyed it and like Barbados did not feel the need to explore it again. So we spent the whole day on the ship relaxing, It was lovely to have the swimming pools to ourselves with nothing to do but sunbathe, read, drink beer or cocktails and pig out in the Venezia for breakfast and lunch. That evening I had a starter of ‘Rope Grown Mussels with Garlic, White Wine and Parsley’ while Wendy tried the ‘Beetroot Salad with Crisp Truffle Ricotta.” I think I was back on the Sirloin Steak or the Grilled Salmon Fillet and Wendy tried the Roast Lamb Cushion filled with Apricot and Moroccan Spices accompanied by noisette (?) potatoes and roasted root vegetables. For dessert we tried Salt and Vinegar ice cream for the first time which sounded weird but tasted lovely. Our two regular waiters Richie and DK were always amenable to slipping us the extra dessert. After dinner we sat in on the excellent Glenn Miller tribute in the Malabar.

Just before dinner, Patrick had knocked on the door again. He carried two things. Firstly a cardboard package that contained a temporary wedding certificate (until the proper one was sent from Bermuda). For the location of the wedding, it had the ship’s position which was 15 10.0 N (Latitude) and 061. 40 2W (longitude). He also handed over a box. “This is a present from the Captain” he said. When we opened it, it contained two beautifully cut crystal glasses. We felt very spoilt.

Tuesday December 5th – Antigua

Today after breakfast we finally ventured off the ship and into St John’s. We had been here before when a cruise ship had arrived and saw all the local taxi drivers hustling as tour guides. They were friendly and not aggressive and when we told them we had been here before, they moved on. We only came ashore to buy a fridge magnet, have a Bank’s Beer at a bar and then get back on board again. This sounds terrible but we had driven around the island before and seen all the sights. It is a lovely island but not worth repeating.

We made the most of the relaxation time and empty ship. The Oriental choice were starters of Chicken Caesar Terrine with anchovy dressing and Asparagus with Spiced Egg Mayonnaise with a main of Prime Roast Beef Sirloin with Yorkshire Pudding. Kumquat and Almond Cake and A Rocky Road Sundae followed. We would also squeeze in a cheese board on occasional evenings. That evening we tried some entertainment in the Manhatten Bar. Tom Binns was a good spoof psychic but a very poor ventriloquist where he admitted he couldn’t say the word ‘B’. The joke wore thin after his fourth dummy.

Captain’s Log: “Azura sat quietly overnight alongside in calm harbour waters. After another glorious day alongside and all guests back on board, Azura was made ready for her departure. Once all mooring lines had been let go, Azura was manoeuvred astern out of her berth and into the swinging basin. The vessel was swung to Starboard using her thrusters and once fully turned, the engines were set ahead and Azura was driven out of the channel on reciprocal tracks to those of arrival. ‘Full Away on Passage’ was called at 18:17 as Azura proceeded out into the waters of the Caribbean en-route to St Kitts. Weather: Light cloud, mostly sunny. Temperature 29’C. Wind: Easterly Force 4.