Slipping Past Slovenia. Crawling Through Croatia
Easter 1998
Croatia is not the place to go if you like to do your touring at a roaring pace. There are radar-gun-toting policemen outside every major town and often in the middle of nowhere. With the scenery that Croatia has to offer, however, it seems a crime to rush around.
To get there you will have to drive through idyllic Slovenia, whose beauty and tranquillity may be enough to stop you from even venturing into Croatia. Both countries are outstanding examples of the new Eastern Europe and, as yet, are generally free of tourists.
You can enter Slovenia's Julian Alps from Italy or Austria. Roughly the size of Wales, it claims to be 'the sunny side of the Alps', and it is very similar to Bavaria, with over half the country being covered by forests. Slovenians are very welcoming. This was illustrated when we turned up at the border at 11pm without a "Green Card"; they opened up the Duty Free shop just to issue one.
Bled, just inside Slovenia, is the major mountain resort and is set on an emerald lake with a castle towering over it. It can get crowded in the summer, but is a comfortable base to explore the Trigav National Park. This protected mountainous area was silent during our visit in the spring, except for a strange noise. When we explored any small lake, we discovered thousands of multi-coloured frogs noisily breeding.
The majestic Lake Bohinj, 15 miles from Bled, lacks frogs but has sheer rocky crags rising almost vertically from the surface. You can take a cable car to reach 3000ft for a beautiful view of the mountains which have snow capped peaks most of the year. Slap Savica, a 200ft high waterfall, is also worth the twenty minute hike through the forest.
Heading south towards Ljubljana, using the quiet local roads rather than the motorway, you will pass through grazing lands with small churches full of medieval wall murals. Ljubljana is the small capital of about 330,000 people, situated on a major river. It is easy to find a car park and walk through the compact centre full of historical buildings.
Further south lie two distinct tourist sights. The Skocjanske Jame caves are UNESCO-protected as a World Heritage site, and rightly so. The two hour guided tour takes you underground through caverns to an enormous 100 metre deep canyon with a raging river below the narrow walkway. Such is the natural splendour of this sight, that the attraction has been left relatively untouched by man. The lighting was minimal but these caverns made Wooky Hole in Cheshire look like a miniature model in comparison.
Just down the road, the Lipica Horse stud farm is the major breeding centre of the world famous white Lipizzaner horses which can be seen in Vienna or on world tours. You can take an informative tour of the centre and learn about the horses and their intricate training.
The relaxed driving atmosphere of Slovenia dramatically changes when you cross over into Croatia. You will inevitably be stopped by the police, either to check your documents or just to have a chat. They are friendly enough and even when I was obviously well over the speed limit and had pleaded forgiveness, they patted me on the back and exclaimed "English! Enjoy your holiday". Maybe they were sympathetic because Croatia did better in the World Cup than we did.
Since the war ended, Croatia has been rapidly rebuilding itself and it has a dynamic feel about it. We spotted a few war-torn villages, but generally the impression was of new small, cheap hotels sprouting up ready for the return of international tourists. The road surfaces are also in good order.
As a result of Yugoslavia breaking up in 1991, Croatia's new borders contain 80% of the previous tourist resorts and it has one of the strangest outlines of any country. It extends in an arc from the Danube River in the east to Istria in the west and south down the Dalmatian coast to Dubrovnik. It looks a little like a boomerang .
The Dalmatian coast has many seaside resorts, clear water, a good climate and a lovely maritime vista. The lengthy 600km twisting road to Dubrovnik clings to the coastline with dusty hills to the left and flat, barren looking islands to the right set in a deep blue sea. Split is the largest Croatian city on the coast. The old town is built on Roman remains and is a strange mixture of ancient walls and modern shopping complexes.
Dubrovnik is certainly the "jewel of the Adriatic". It is also protected by UNESCO and even the condemned bombardments of 1991 did not destroy the character of the place which is peerless. It was formerly an important medieval independent republic of merchants and sailors. Stari Grad, the perfectly preserved old town, is unique for its marbled paved squares, steep cobbled streets, tall houses, convents, palaces, fountains and museums, all cut from the same light coloured stone. The intact city walls keep the motorists at bay and you can park on the cliffs above and walk down into the centre.
From these cliffs you are rewarded with a superb view of the famous city walls and battlements surrounding a carpet of bright orange roof tiles. The majestic old town boasts the third oldest functioning pharmacy in Europe (operating since 1391) within the Franciscan monastery and the exquisite 1441 Rector's Palace. Another highlight is a walk along the Sixteenth Century city walls, with the sea crashing against the rocks below. The only problem with visiting Dubrovnik is that you have no choice but to retrace your route north and return along the coastal road. It will take you a long day of driving to do it and the return journey looks very familiar.
Croatia's best kept secret is the Plitvice Lakes National Park which lies midway between Zagreb and Zadar. The wooded hills enclose sixteen gorgeous turquoise lakes, linked by a series of waterfalls and cascades and which are a stunning sight. You can spend a perfect day walking around the entire area on well maintained paths and marvel at the colours, clear water and silence. Around this area, you will see many women by the side of the road selling local wines and smoked cheeses which are delicious.
Zagreb, the capital, lies two hours east and is fully westernised. Blue trams hurtle around the pedesrianised shopping areas and parking spaces are difficult to find. The Gradec district contains the old town with the remaining impressive medieval buildings and endless sidewalk cafes full of locals.
It may seem a long way to drive for a holiday, so alternatively you could fly to Zagreb and rent a car. As with all unfashionable Eastern European countries you will find the prices very low, the sights uncrowded, yet friendly people who speak English and are proud of their new nationhood. Go and have a look before we beat Croatia in the next World Cup.
Fact File:
A 'Green Card' insurance certificate is mandatory in both countries. All policemen check that you have one. Get it before you go. A British Driver's Licence should also be taken
You can arrange to rent a car in advance from major rental agencies. As an example Europcar (0345) 222525 offers a Punto from Zagreb Airport for £200 a week including insurance, unlimited mileage and collision tax.
Hotels and guesthouses are widely available. Slovenia is more expensive but even there £30 per night for a double room appeared average.
Fuel Prices: Slovenia - 4 Star (45p), Unleaded (38p), Diesel (38p) (per litre) Croatia - 4 Star (40p), Unleaded (37p), Diesel (33p)
You can get plenty of travel literature from both tourist boards. Write to The Slovenian Tourist Office, 2 Canfield Place, London NW6 3BT Tel: (0171) 372 3767. The Croatian National Tourist Office, 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Rd, London W6 9ER. Tel: (0181) 563 7979.
