Hungary

Easter 1998

If you put your foot down, you can now reach the Hungarian border from Calais, France, in just 12 hours. When you arrive you will find a country that is distinctly eastern European, cheap, and tourist-free once away from the capital, Budapest. You will also discover miles of empty roads, a language that is impossible to learn or pronounce, and people keen to welcome the British driver.

We entered Hungary from Croatia as part of an eastern European tour earlier this year. The first thing we noticed was a scarcity of cars on any road and an absence of horses and carts to dodge - just locals on their bicycles. The few cars that we did pass on the flat, endless, well-surfaced roads were Trabants and Ladas. Whatever you drive, it will be the smartest car around; even our red Ford Fiesta Diesel 1800cc made an impression, although it was quite safe parked on a street every night.

Having visited all former Eastern Bloc countries, I can safely vouch for the Hungarian roads being the best maintained. Even those marked on the roadmap as minor roads are excellent, passing through quiet scenic agricultural land. However, if you choose to use the backroads, you will run the gauntlet of numerous railway crossings. There are no barriers, only flashing white lights to indicate when it is safe to cross. We always paused and looked both ways just to be safe.

Another aspect of driving in Hungary that strikes you is how flat it is. Two- thirds of Hungary is less than 200 metres above sea level. The majestic River Danube splits the country into two. On the eastern side of the river lie the Great Plains (¡¥Puszta¡¦) which are wonderful to drive across for the sheer sense of space and freedom. The Danube can be crossed in many places either by road or ferry. Driving from Pecs, a lovely regional centre in southwest Hungary, we crossed on the small car ferry at sleepy Mohacs. It cost £1 for the ten-minute ride.

Unlike other eastern European countries (especially Croatia), there are very few police radar traps. We saw policemen only infrequently and they waved as we passed by. The road was our own most of the time, and although we slowed down through the occasional town, mostly we travelled at our own speed. Towns are well signposted and drivers are courteous, almost cautious, in their driving habits.

To see some real horse power, however, you must visit the ¡¥Bugac Karikas Csarda¡¦ just outside Bugac in the centre of the Great Plains. The spectacular hour-long display of traditional Hungarian horsemanship includes various stunts on horses, culminating in the ¡¥Five In Hand¡¦. A rider gallops five horses around the corral by standing on the backs of the rear two horses steering the other three. Do not try this at home!

Many of the major Hungarian towns are full of wide low-lying streets with a magnificent collection of Baroque designed buildings from former centuries. Bright yellow and pastel pink are the predominant colours for cathedrals and other important old buildings. The regional centres of Pecs, Kecskemet and Eger all contain some outstanding historical centres that are a pleasure to stroll around.

Capital city Budapest is very westernized, as you might expect, but still retains some of its historic charm. Originally the two towns of Buda and Pest straddled the River Danube, and were united in 1873 by the first bridge. Buda¡¦s Castle District contains the best of what Budapest has to offer. There are lovely ancient streets to wander around, culminating in the famous Matthias church with its Gothic tower and colourfully tiled roof. Inside, you will discover spectacular murals. It is one of the best historic monuments that Hungary has to offer. Outside, the Fisherman¡¦s Bastion gives you wonderful views of the majestic Parliament Building and the commercial district of Pest across the river.

Just outside Budapest, in the northwest, you can visit the famous historic towns on the Danube bend. Szentendre and Visegrad are much publicised and consequently we found them to be over-commercialised. In comparison, Esztergom, the historically religious centre of Hungary, which was further around the bend, was far more pleasant with the Cathedral dominating the town.

Southwest of Esztergom lies Pannonhalma with the largest abbey in Hungary. Standing on a 300m hill, it is visible for miles across beautiful countryside. You can get an excellent guided tour through this huge Benedictine monastery which is still active and contains many historical treasures.

Further south, the 77-km-long Lake Balaton is the largest freshwater lake in Europe outside Scandinavia. It is the centre of the internal Hungarian tourist trade and the lakeside resorts are packed in the summer. In April, it was very quiet. The Tihany Peninsula is the most beautiful part containing the magnificent 1754 twin-towered Abbey church. The local shops are garlanded with large bunches of red paprika and strings of white garlic cloves.

Near the western end of the Lake is the small but famous town of Heviz. Here you can relax in Europe¡¦s largest thermal lake, ¡¥Gyogy-to¡¦, which is five hectares in size. The average annual water temperature is 33„aC and the water and mud from the spring are recommended for various medical conditions. During much of the year, the lake is awash with pink and white water lilies. It is a splendid place to unwind in the sun and maybe treat yourself to a massage.

In the northwest corner of Hungary is Sopron, a pleasant historic town right on the Austrian border, and probably your first Hungarian experience if coming from Calais. 30km east of Sopron, the village of Fertod contains the 126-room Esterhazy Palace built in 1766. It is a magnificent yellow baroque palace which was the Hungarian version of Versailles in Paris. It contains a wealth of interior extravagance unrivalled in the country.

Hungary is an easy and really enjoyable country to tour by car. There is no Cyrillic alphabet to translate, but the language itself is difficult as a result of many historical merges. However most young people and hotel staff speak English, although you may find menus in Hungarian or German only. Nevertheless, it is a cheap place to visit and stay. Drive there now before the crowds find out.