The CIA Website says that Poland is an ancient nation that was conceived near the middle of the 10th century. Its golden age occurred in the 16th century but in the 17C it was partitioned between Russia, Prussia, and Austria. Poland regained its independence in 1918 only to be overrun by Germany and the Soviet Union in World War II. It became a Soviet satellite state following the war, but its government was comparatively tolerant and progressive. Labor turmoil in 1980 led to the formation of the independent trade union "Solidarity" that over time became a political force and by 1990 had swept parliamentary elections and the presidency. A "shock therapy" program during the early 1990s enabled the country to transform its economy into one of the most robust in Central Europe, but Poland still faces the lingering challenges of high unemployment, underdeveloped and dilapidated infrastructure, and a poor rural underclass.

Poland joined NATO in 1999 and the European Union in 2004. With its transformation to a democratic, market-oriented country largely completed, Poland is an increasingly active member of Euro-Atlantic organizations. It has 38m people (90% of which are Roman Catholic) who have an average income of $18,000, living on mostly flat plain, 40% of which is arable land producing potatoes, fruits, vegetables, wheat; poultry, eggs, pork, dairy. Industry produces machine building, iron and steel, coal mining, chemicals, shipbuilding, food processing, glass, beverages, textiles.

We only had to reach L’viv in the Ukraine today, so I suggested to Trevor that we pop into Krakow en route to give him a quick glimpse. Trevor had never been to Poland whereas I’d been around most of the country. I had last visited Krakow in 1995 when you could be a millionaire in the local Zloty currency for about £30. The ‘Schindler’s List’ movie had also just come out then which was based at Krakow. By now, I thought the Polish had adopted the Euro, but they still had the Zloty. You need at least 2 days to do Krakow properly. Trevor got about two hours.

The ‘Lonely Person’s guide says “Krakow is Poland’s third largest city and the country’s most popular tourist destination by far. As the royal capital for half a millennium, it absorbed more of Poland’s history than any other city, and, miraculously, Krakow was the only large Polish city to emerge from WWII unscathed. Its’ stunning, well-preserved collection of medieval and Renaissance architecture is unrivalled…in 1978 UNESCO included the centre of Krakow on its first World Heritage List”. I had remembered it as one of the most impressive places I had visited in Europe.

Finding free parking on a Sunday lunchtime in the old Jewish ghetto, we walked into the centre to the Rynek Glowny which measuring 200m by 200m is the largest medieval town square in Poland and reputedly in Europe. Originally designed in 1257, the shape has remained though the buildings have changed. Dominating the square is the Cloth Hall, built in the 14th century for the cloth trade and replaced in Renaissance style after burning down in 1555. Now it is just a trading centre for souvenirs but impressive just the same.

Overlooking the square is St Mary’s Church, with two unequal towers – one 69m high and one 81m. Inside, which today was packed with tourists snapping cameras, even though a service was underway, were magnificent stained glass windows dating from the 14th Century. The altarpiece was intricately carved in wood, painted and guilded with gold. Looking up, the blue vaulted ceiling was spectacular. Throughout the old town, decorated pairs of horses would pull fancy carriages of tourists for tours.

We also climbed up to Wawel Castle, the political and cultural centre of Poland until the early 17th century. After burning down in 1499, the original building was replaced with a Renaissance Palace which seems to have had a mish mash of external features added. The whole of central Krakow was awash with tourists and locals enjoying a hot Sunday. We never saw this number of tourists anywhere else on our trip and Krakow appeared in our limited time to have retained its character. Recommended.

Link to my previous Krakow visit

Link to my Schindler’s List Article

We had to motor on to the Ukraine. Despite the relatively short distance, with Sunday traffic and constant police speed traps (fortunately indicated by the flashing lights of oncoming cars), it was very slow going. By the side of the road, locals would be selling fruit, garden gnomes (don’t ask) and honey.

When we arrived at the Polish border, after filling up the fuel tank (I always think it is wise to enter a new country with a full tank if possible just to give you some leeway until you can get hold of some local currency), there was a single line queue that took an absolute age to move. They would only process two cars at a time. We sat in the late afternoon, baking in the heat. One car came past and tried to jump the queue. He was turned back by a guard. Another jumped the queue and sneaked into a space ahead left by a driver who hadn’t moved his car. I was starting to think we’d never get through, when a woman driving a Range Rover with a German number plate drove past everybody and tried to jump ahead. The problem was that she couldn’t get through the barrier because it was blocked by a car getting processed. Pissed off, I walked up and using sign language indicated that there was a queue and that she should fuck off to the end of the queue. She pretended not to understand. As the next two cars were ushered forward, I stood in front of her vehicle so she couldn’t move. She pleaded with the Polish guard – she had 3 kids and should get priority. He turned her around and sent her to the end of the line. ‘Very bad’ he said to me.

We had been waiting over an hour to get processed. I couldn’t believe how inefficient the Polish immigration was. As an EU vehicle, they just had to tap in our details into a computer and wave us on. The Ukrainians would also only process a few cars at a time and we waited another hour to get processed. First we had to get a number, then had to fill in forms for the vehicle, then get our passports checked and recorded, then the vehicle forms processed, then the car searched. When they asked us for our ‘Green card’ (international insurance), I thought we were sunk, but the guard told us to stop at the first garage to get one. Which we did, having to climb over the road barrier to get to the office where a woman filled out the relevant form, asked for 10 Euros in Ukrainian currency, which we didn’t have but Trev was able to change some money, and issued us with a windscreen sticker and the official documentation.

Welcome to Ukraine (apparently, it is not the Ukraine).

Roadkill:
Poland – Rabbit, bird, UFO