The Picts continued to live on the northern tiers of the island, but a new more powerful force was about to invade their homeland. On the island we now know as Ireland lived a people called the Scotti or Scots. In about the year 500, Fergus the Great came to the shores of Caledonia, and settled in Argyll, the western reaches of the land of the Picts. The kingdom established there was called Dalraida. The Scotti brought with them Gaelic and Christianity, a new language and religion.

Argyll is a land of lochs and hills and islands. It is beautiful country. We spent Sunday visiting a town on the eastern fringes of Argyll, the town of Inveraray. There we found the ancestral home of the Campbell Clan - Inveraray Castle, the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Argyll. This lovely 18th-19th century castle is more in line with our visual picture of a castle, with turrets that had cone shaped roofs. Inside, we found a wealth of paintings, silver, porcelain and of course the armoury. In Armoury Hall, one of the first rooms we entered, we saw swords, spears and rifles displayed on the walls. It occurred to me that this particular room was one that I would rather not be in during an earthquake. There were cases which displayed some of the memorabilia from the Campbell clan, particularly some objects attributed to Rob Roy, one of the characters we will learn about later in the history of Scotland. Other rooms we visited included the State Dining Room and the Tapestry Drawing Room. In the State Dining room, we saw some lovely silver-gilt table decorations in the shape of sailing vessels. The turrets held rooms that were hidden from view with doorways that were concealed as walls. One such room held a china collection. There is a room named after Queen Victoria, whose daughter, H.R.H. Princess Louise married the Marquess of Lorne (who became the 9th Duke of Argyll). Everyone is welcome to visit the castle, but anyone with the Campbell ancestry is given a special touch.

The village of Inveraray is located on Loch Fyne. We spent a few hours visiting some of the historic buildings in this town, such as the Tower and Bells of All Saints’ Episcopal Church, as well as Inveraray Jail. Though the intent was to connect the tower to the church it presently sits a few feet from the west end. The building began in 1886 as a war memorial, but due to lack of funds the building was never complete. In 1931 it was sufficiently completed to install the bells. The tower is 126 feet high, and we climbed to the roof to see the magnificent views of Loch Fyne and Inveraray.

The bells at Inveraray can be either chimed or pealed. It takes only one person to chime the set of ten bells. Hammers controlled by chords strike the bells creating a lovely, soft sound of music but the range is limited. The bells in full peal, however, are heard for miles around, and take ten people to create the music. Each person controls a rope, which swings each bell. Together, they time their motions to create the beautiful sounds, which ring from the tower. Bell ringing is a talent that must be developed and the bell ringers around Britain practice many hours.

Our next adventure in Inveraray was to the jail. These 19th century buildings were the county prison of Argyll from 1820-1889. In the early years, conditions were horrible. There was no heating or washroom. It was overcrowded and there was nothing for the inmates to do. In the mid-19th century, prison reform brought about many changes, making the prison system often a better way of life for the prisoners. They were fed, clothed and given work to complete. A new prison was built with heating and a washroom. The prisoners were required to wash and they even bathed weekly. Punishment was harsh. The death penalty was often given for serious crimes before the 18th century, less in later years and was abolished in 1970. The executions ceased being public events in 1868. Many crimes were given the punishment of transportation, which was deportation to America (before the Revolutionary War) and then Australia.

In 1843, a set of airing yards were built in the grounds of the prison, these open air cages were meant to provide the opportunity for each inmate to exercise and get a breath of fresh air. They were required to spend an hour a day in the yard. The guard on duty during our visit locked us in the yard, just for a few minutes. Another family spent more time in there, as the guard leaned giggling on the side of the yard. “Your hour isn’t up yet!” he kept saying.

The prison had a doctor, chaplain and a library. The prisoners were kept healthy and were taught to read, write and the gospel message. After the reforms of the mid-1800’s, the prisons were places to reform the guilty not just punish them for their crimes. We were able to lie on the hammocks used, and we spoke to several costumed characters about life in the prisons. The courthouse is set up with recordings of actors portraying some trials. It was interesting to hear how the lawyers of the day pleaded their case.

By the time we finished wandering the halls and cells of the prison, we were hungry. We found a lovely little café on the shore of Loch Fyne and ordered a delicious meal. Of note is the venison pie Bruce ordered, a meat and gravy casserole with a pastry top. The gravy had a very strong flavour I could not distinguish. I told Bruce that it was probably Scotch Whiskey. I questioned the chef who told me that she begins by mixing the meat with herbs and other ingredients then letting it sit overnight. Then Guinness is added, the mixture put in the bowl, and the pastry placed on top then baked.

On our way home from Inveraray, we drove through the Argyll Forest Park. At the top of a summit in the midst of the park was an area called “Rest and be thankful.” We decided we had to visit this place. In the lot was a sign describing why this place came to be named “Rest and be thankful.” The modern road through the park is difficult; in three miles you climb nearly a thousand feet. The Old Highway is a single-track dirt road, built a century or so ago by a unit of military engineers. Before that road was built, travel through Glen Croe was nearly impossible. At the completion of the road, the builders set a stone of remembrance so that all that arrived at the summit would rest and be thankful to the men who risked their lives to build it. They laid the foundation for better travel through this hazardous place.

From this summit, you can see the old highway winding its way through the valley. This tiny dirt road looks hazardous in the best of conditions, I imagine it is nearly impossible to pass during the times of rain and snow. I wonder how many survived the travel in the days before that highway.

At the western reaches of Argyll is a tiny island called Iona. We were unable to visit this lovely place, however it is worth a word or two for the important historical role it played. The Duke of Argyll gave this island, which was part of his vast holdings, to the Church of Scotland in the late 19th century. On this island is an interdenominational Christian retreat, the site of a 13th century Benedictine Abbey whose predecessor was founded by St. Columba. Colum or Columcille was born in 527 in County Donegal, Ireland. He was known as the ‘Dove of the Church’, a Christian missionary to the Pictish tribes. His parents were both of royal decent, his father being a kinsman to the rulers of Dalraida. He shared the gospel in his homeland until he was caught up in a bitter dispute over the copyright of an important document. He set off for Dalraida with twelve disciples for a self-imposed exile, settling on the lonely island of Iona where he established the abbey. From there he preached the gospel throughout the land, gaining himself the title “Apostle of Caledonia.” He was motivated by his love for God, but in the process managed a few political victories. It was partly due to the work of Columba that the Dalraida and Picts came to join into what we know today as the Scots. He established several monasteries, all controlled by the parent house on Iona. The brothers lived a very austere lifestyle, eating sparse meals only when hungry and sleeping only when tired.

Columba served God in Scotland for 34 years. It is said in his last week of life he went back to Iona for one last visit. There, he blessed all he met with the love of Christ, and died at the altar of St. Onan, in whose cemetery he is now buried with many kings of Scotland, Ireland and England. Even in death, Columba had his hands raised in praise and blessing. He is honoured throughout Scotland as a very special part of the history, not only of the Church, but also the land for the work he did in uniting the diverse people.

The Celtic church did not closely follow that of Rome, allowing much of the culture to be woven into the church of the day. It was in the eleventh century when the Anglicization of Scotland began to affect the Christians. St. Margaret, wife of Malcolm III MacDuncan, who became king of the Scots in 1057, was a devout Catholic, and her influence brought Roman tradition. These changes did not please the local people and there was some rebellion in the ensuing years, which was defeated with the help of the English. Even today, however, you will find many Scottish Christians prefer a simpler Christianity, worshipping in the cathedrals God built - His mountains, glens and lochs. The Scottish cathedrals and churches are mostly simple in design. Today at Edinburgh castle there still stands a tiny stone chapel built by Margaret in the 11th century and it is now dedicated to her honour.