Ripple, Eklutna Canyon Alaska, grade 3, first time on-ice and later to be first ice lead. Also sons first ice climb. It has special meaning. An annual climb to keep the streak.
Annie Greensprings, Eklutna Canyon Ak, first true solo on ice. After planning to solo it and failing on 3 attempts, one day without thinking, was standing on top looking down.
Scratch Your Way Up, Eklutna Canyon Ak, grade M5, first solo on mix terrain. Took many hours to come down off the groove.
April Fools, Hunter Creek Ak, grade 3/4, solo first ascent (FA) on the day it's named after.
Pee'd in the Bivy, Hunter Creek Ak, grade 4, first ascent and the name says it all. First, FA with my bud Mango.
Lost n Space, Hunter Creek Ak, grade 3, first photo shoot for a local production company on this cicle, they look fun but are alot of work. Also learned what 3/4-camera gear is and how heavy a pack full of 3/4-gear is, climbing solo up ice.
Tempest, Chugach Mountains, grade 4 with a dicey mixed traverse, FA in the beginning of a severe alpine storm. Camped in the worst wind ever encountered, to include the Alaska Range and the Aleutian Chain.
Surprized, Mt Lemmon Az, grade 3, "Ice in AZ!", that's right, bagged a FA on this short and thin ice smear up under the ski slope in a gorge, broke a pick on the rock so the name has double meaning. Down the gorge, by this huge fallen tree, bagged a snowed up rock crag with patches of ice. AZ has mix climbing as well. There were several more ice smears to play on and all have been climbed.
Tangled Up in Blue, Uncompagre Gorge, Ouray Colorado, grade 5+, the legendary Mugs Stumps soloed laps on an adjacent cicle during lead of this cicle. Afterwards, spent some time with Mugs learning much and he became a true mentor. The winter before his demise on Denali.
Skylight, Camp Bird Mine, Ouray Colorado, grade 5 with some dicey mix action around a chockstone. One of the best ice climbs done in the states.
Bridalveil Falls, Telluride Colorado, grade 5+, not as hard as rumors told, there was many small ledges to grab a rest after tricky rt finding through funky candlesticks.
Prophet on a Stick, Provo Utah, grade 6(?), nothing but arms and a light foot. Actually broke off the lower part of the free-hanging cicle at waist level, hanging by one arm in mid-air. Total excitement!
Rock Climbs
Boy Scout Rock, Sewerd Highway Alaska, first rock climb with sons.
Slippery When Wet, Mt Lemmon Arizona, 5.6, the scariest rock climb done. Stepping around an arete to total hand and foot friction climbing, 200' above the deck with last piece of pro for below. High Pucker!
Wasteland, E Strongehold Arizona, 5.8, has to be the best rock climb in the US. Has everything the rock jock wants but an easy approach. Learned what a chicken-head is.
Airmonsters, Mt Lemmon Arizona, 5.12, the name says it all and there was plenty made. Over-hung by 10* the last 15'.
