The following is a compilation of tips that have been posted on The Southern Outdoorsman Discussion Board, by several TSO members over the past few years. I hope they are helpful to you, and if you have tips to add, we encourage you to visit The Southern Outdoorsman Forum and post them.
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Scouting:
Scouting is the key, early or late season. Spend time driving around and locating flocks (before and during the season).
When duck hunting, it is important to scout your locations. What looks good to you may not look good to the birds. The best caller in the world cannot convince birds to dump into a place they don't want to be. If you have birds pass your blocks (decoys) repeatedly, move to where they are setting down, it will be well worth the move.
Once ducks eat most of the forage in a field they will move to another one during the next feeding period.
When hunting on public land, always have at least 3 different places scouted for hunting. If you show up at your primary hole and its already taken, you’ll have an alternate hole to head to instead of wandering aimlessly and guessing on finding a hole in the dark.
Too often we tend to think of public areas such as WMA’s as our first option. While WMA’s can be a good option, don’t overlook the other options. Small ponds, creeks and swamps that hunter’s tend to overlook often contain good numbers of ducks. Think “out of the box” and try to find a place nobody else has discovered. You may find your best honeyhole, but don’t tell everyone else about it, or it won’t be a secret honeyhole for long!
Don't over look small creeks during icey conditions. It may be the only water open for miles.
Try floating a river or stream in a canoe or duck boat. Early in the season, hunting pressure will quickly scatter local ducks off the fields and open water. Drape a camo cloth or burlap over the bow, stay low, and use a short skulling paddle. As you come around a bend, hug the inside shoreline, and you'll float right up on ducks resting in the slower current.
When scouting, look for an abundance of feathers in the area. If ducks frequent the area there should be noticeable amounts of feathers floating on the surface and brush, and along the edge.
If you see a lot of empty shotgun shells floating, you just found someone’s hole where they did a lot of shooting, probably within the last day or two. On public land, first one there gets it! Pick up or sink your empty shells to avoid leaving clues to others.
If you see a swirl of ducks that darken the sky going into a hole, try to hunt that hole on that evening or the next morning. Ducks often return to the same hole over and over until the food runs out or until they migrate out of the region.
Calls and Calling:
Before the start of the season, practice calling while recording on a cassette tape recorder. Your calling will sound different when it's played back and you’ll be able to hear where your calling needs work. You’ll be able to detect and make corrections to the different tones, speed and even hear the difference between your different calls. If you hunt with a regular partner, try recording while you both call together.
Always carry more than one Mallard call, with each call having a different pitch. Ducks like different pitches and you never know what pitch they’ll best respond to until you experiment with them.
To avoid having your duck call reed sticking, apply a thin coating of wax or Rain-X to the reed. Moisture will roll off rather than condensing on the reed. Rain-X can be found at most any discount or automotive store.
On sub-freezing mornings, keep your duck call “inside” your jacket to keep it warm and avoid having the reed freeze up. If the reed freezes, turn it around and blow hard long breaths through it to warm it up and make it thaw out.
If your reed is dirty, pull the call apart and slide a folded dollar bill back and forth between the reed and the call to clean it.
After getting the duck’s attention, blow your call softly and downward toward the water. The sound will reflect off the water and give a more realistic sound without letting the ducks easily pinpoint “you”.
Late season, use a whistle, goose call, or just quack on the call. Ducks tend to get leary of the hail call and are not quite as used to hearing the other calls.
Three callers can make for some very effective calling. It will sound like a whole flock of ducks. One leads with quacks, while the other two make feed calls.
Guns:
When duck hunting, try using a gun sling on your shotgun. It’s always good to keep both hands available as much as you can. It also gives you an opportunity to rest or warm your hands and arms on occasion.
Waterfowling is especially tough on guns. You’re hunting in a wet and muddy environment. After hunting be sure to at least wipe your gun thoroughly and give it a good spray coat of oil. Better yet, break the gun down periodically to thoroughly clean and lubricate the inner mechanisms. Most “jams” are attributed to a dirty gun. Never place a damp firearm inside a gun sleeve. A gun that was put away damp will rust overnight.
In cold weather, keep some loads close to body heat. Steel-shot loads have slow-burning powders that will ignite better when kept warm.
Make certain a gun fits when you're wearing your heaviest hunting clothes. Too often a gun that fits on a summer evening while you're shopping in a sports shirt turns out to be too long when you're bundled in late-season garb. One trick is having two different recoil pads fitted to the same gun: a full-sized pad for early season and light clothing, and a lesser pad for late season.
Cut a piece of wooden broom handle for a spare gun plug. You never know when a friend may need one. A three inch plug will work fine with most guns.
Waders:
Check your waders prior to opening morning. Many people arrive at their duck hole and slip their waders on for the first time only to discover they have leaks, or they’ve dry rotted, or in some cases they’ve outgrown the boot size.
An easy way to repair leaks in neoprene waders is to use some stuff called "GOOP". It easily adheres to neoprene, dries in 24 hours, is waterproof, flexible and permanent. If you need to you can spread it on and then place a piece of canvas over the leak and then seal the edges with more "GOOP". You can buy it at almost any hardware store or sporting goods shop.
While pulling on or wearing waders, socks tend to work down and pant legs tend to work up. It’s best to use velcro ankle garters, but in a pinch, try wrapping duct tape around your ankle to avoid sock and pant leg creeping.
Try using a string of small Christmas lights to dry your waders. This works great. The lights will Generate enough heat to dry the insides, but not too hot to crack the waders.
Decoy Placement:
When setting your decoys out in your hole, put a few at the outskirts of the hole and some in the timber. When ducks lite, they almost always swim towards the timber.
Don’t place decoys or locate your landing zone too close to the water’s edge. Ducks naturally avoid the edge due to the possibility of stalking predators. About twenty-feet minimum is a reasonable distance.
Try to match the numbers of ducks you see with the numbers of decoys you have. Try and set up a few divers on the outer edge and mix in some widgeon (robber ducks) with them. Set your shells up on a sand bar to imitate loafing geese along with some floaters and you will be surprised.
When ducks become skidish and call shy, usually later in the season, try using less decoys. Adding movement in the decoys can also be very helpful.
When setting out a decoy spread, leave a shooting hole open within a good shooting range from the blind. Anticipate where the ducks will come in. Ducks will usually come flying into the wind. When hunting in timber, a good opening in the timber is best, but ducks will land in surprisingly small openings. Sitting ducks cluster together in “tight” formations when they’re being cautious of their surroundings. Avoid clustering your decoy spread too tight to avoid making them look frightened or cautious. Use your best looking decoys in and immediately around your shooting hole. Always back away from your decoy spread and look from the direction the ducks will land to be certain everything looks realistic.
Leave an open "landing lane" on the downwind side of the landing zone. If the landing zone is too small or incorrectly situated, many birds will over-shoot the landing zone and land outside the spread and out of range.
A side wind, either from the left or the right, is ideal. That way most flocks can be kept in sight most of the time as they prepare to come in.
Stay aware of changing wind directions. A jackkite that is loosely mounted on its pole will rotate freely acting as a windsock.
A string or trailer of decoys extending out from your main spread can be a good attention-getter.
Don't rig all your floaters to face the same direction. Real ducks doing this are alarmed, and is not the impression you want to give decoying birds.
Use confidence decoys to add realism to your spread. Sleepers, feeders, different decoy sizes (standards and magnums), decoys with adjustable head positions, different species of ducks, jackkites, motorized wing decoys and even a Great Blue Heron off to the side will give a look of realism to a spread. The diversity is not absolutely necessary, but can be the deciding factor on days when ducks are leary about landing. You may want to place some “walkers” on dry land along the edge. Goose decoys can also be a good addition.
Canada goose decoys set up in the area can be of great help. Put them about 35-50 yards up wind. They add to the visibility and size of your spread. Ducks will often feed in behind geese because of the big birds churning up the bottom. Swan decoys work well also.
Use silos when hunting in snow storms. They don't allow accumulation of near the snow that shells and full bodies do, and you are less likely to be caught among the dekes while dusting off snow.
Flaws in your decoy spread will show up more on a bluebird day.
Never leave the same decoy spread in place day in and day out. Change them frequently to keep from educating the ducks to your presence.
Decoy Movement:
Use a jerk cord on a few decoys in the middle of your spread to give them movement. Attach a bungee cord to a stake or heavy weight, tie a cord to the bungee, then attach a few decoys to the jerk cord. As you jerk the string, the bungee cord on the far end will give it a “springing” motion.
While hunting flooded timber on still days stand next to a tree and occasionally kick your foot to make ripples and get the attention of high flying ducks. This will give your decoys movement and give the appearance of feeding ducks in the area. Don’t kick the water when the ducks are committed or too close or they’ll see you. Likewise, when standing in water, avoid moving and making ripples when ducks are committed.
Place your motion duck (i.e. jerk-line, or motorized) somewhat near you. While you're calling, the movement of the motion duck can distract the duck's attention away from you. Also, don't be lazy, if the ducks aren't responding to your dekes, try rearranging them.
Ducks are extra cautious about movement. When ducks are working or committed, keep as still as possible. If you are caught wading without cover, and ducks are circling, stop and hunker down getting as low as possible, and as still as possible. Ducks will often come on in.
During late season, remove the spinner from the spread early. Ducks wise up to spinners after being fooled a few times.
Decoy Maintenance:
Tie a piece of foam inside your decoy bag. This will keep it afloat in case it slips out of your grasp while empty. When empty, they sink!
In the wild, all ducks have a muted glistening to them. To replicate this on decoys, use a model car paint-kit and a can of sprayable polyurethane. Use the model paint on key areas of the deke, like the green head, white bands, blue pinfeathers, yellow leg or whatever. After the paint dries, spray the whole decoy with polyurethane. The resulting shine will be unbeliveably lifelike. Also the coating will help your decoys survive those long seasons of use by cutting down scuffs, scratches and other damage.
Armorall upholstery spray will also help restore faded paint. Armorall makes the paint appear to re-emerge almost like the decoys are new again, and gives a luster much like a real duck. Using Armorall can buy another year or two before having to re-paint decoys. Ducks are often particular about the looks of decoys. Always keep your decoys clean and in good shape.
You can also restore dull looking decoys by cleaning them with tire foam.
Many people use milk jugs, painted black, to add the appearance of more decoys to their spread.
Fly fishing line can be a good alternative to decoy cord for tying weights onto decoys.
When storing your motorized decoy for the year, take it out about about mid-year and let it run until the battery is completely drained. Then give it a full charge. This will make the battery have a much longer life.
If you need a bigger water spread and you don't have the floaters, but have some shells, then rig your shells to float with brown pipe insulation. Here is how:
Cut the pipe insulation to fit the around the edge (base) of the decoy.
Cut one side of the pipe insulation and be careful not to cut all the way through it.
Next, drill approx 6-8 holes around the base (approx 1-2 inches from the bottom) of the decoy and make sure you have one in the front center to attach the anchor string.
Fit the decoy base down inside the pipe insulation.
Attach the insulation with zip (wire) ties run them and make sure they are running through the pipe insulation.
Drill a hole in the center of the tail and attach a small amount of lead with a screw to stabilize the decoy and keep it from flipping in the wind.
Last, attach the anchor line to the center front tie.
Repairing Holes in Decoys:
One problem with decoys are holes caused by mis-placed shotgun pellets. This often happens due to low flying birds or cripples swimming away through the decoy spread. If the pellets penetrate below the water line, the decoy will sink or partially submerge. If you hunt waterfowl long enough, you will end up with a few decoys that rattle and have water inside them. Sometimes water finds it's way into the decoy and freezes when the decoy is on it's side. Then when the decoy is placed in the marsh, it will list badly to one side or the other.
Finding holes in decoys is a relatively easy task. Simply place the decoy in a tub of water and squeeze it gently. Air will come out the holes, and a stream of bubbles is usually a good indicator of the leak. Remove the decoy from the tub, dry it off, and mark the spot of the leak with a marker.
There are a few options as to how to mend holes:
The first is to heat the end of a small screwdriver and when it is hot, place it on the hole and gently press for a few seconds. This will melt the plastic around the hole and will often seal it. Another is to use a hot glue gun. Either method is usually good with smaller holes.
For bigger holes, another method is to squeeze the decoy slightly to expend some air, and then place a small drop of waterproof glue or seam sealer (caulk) over the hole. Once the material is on the hole, release the tension on the decoy and the movement of air into the body of the decoy will draw some of the material in as well. When it dries, the hole will be sealed. Simply sand off any excess and paint the repair using the proper color.
Finally, another method that is good is the "expandable foam" method. This one is a little more costly, but it is more permanent and will give you a decoy that is probably better than the original you bought. To do it, you need to purchase an aerosol can of spray foam insulation; the type that is used for inserting insulation into the walls of a house with a small tube. They are usually available at home improvement and hardware stores.
Drill two small holes in the decoy, one in the head and one in the bottom. Insert the tube into the bottom of the decoy and fill it until you see foam expand out of the hole in the head. Let the foam harden and then cut or sand away the excess foam and touch up with paint.
In addition to repairing pellet holes, this method is also good for decoys that are made of a stiffer, brittle plastic that easily cracks under stress. It will help stabilize the crack and make the decoy buoyant. In addition, all decoys treated with this method are now "shot proof", as the foam insulating material takes the place of the air inside the decoy.
Selecting a Blind Location:
It is amazing the time and money people spend to blend in, then build blinds that face east so their faces shine when the sun rises. If possible orient your blind such that your face is not exposed to the sun while hunting. You should hunt with the sun to your back. This way you can see better and the ducks can't see you as easily when they fly over your head.
When building a blind, keep it as low to the ground as possible. As the sun rises, the blind will cast a shadow and look un-natural to over-flying ducks. The lower to the ground the less shadow it will project.
Hunting:
Ducks are migratory birds. They migrate from Canada and the northern United States. One factor that moves ducks is weather. Ducks will migrate staying in front of freezing weather. As it snows and freezes, their food gets covered, and water holes freeze and they become inaccessible. Keep an eye on changing weather to the north and try to predict when the weather will freeze and send a new wave of ducks your way.
There seems to be a myth that duck hunting is best on cloudy overcast days. Ducks actually fly better on a sunshine day. A sunny day will force you to hide better but will give you more ducks to work.
When you are hunting over a spread of decoys, there may be a lot of coots around. Don't shoot them unless you like eating them. Let them swim into your spread. This is a confidence builder for other game ducks.
When working a large group of mallards, there will often be a scout duck trying to land before the larger group commits. If you can keep from tipping your hand to this bird your chances of bringing in the group are greatly improved. Be patient.
When hunting shallow water, try to “muddy” the water by walking through the decoys periodically. If live ducks were sitting in the hole they would cause the water to appear muddy by their feeding activity.
Bring a folding camp seat that has bars along the bottom of the legs. Early in the morning if you are bank hunting you can set the seat up out in the water near a bush or reeds, and it lets you get a few feet closer to your dekes and to the birds coming in. This only works early when light is low.
When wading, use a decoy bag full of decoys to help maintain your balance. If you suddenly trip over a submerged log, the decoy bag will often give enough support to keep you from falling in. It’s also a good idea to store a complete change of clothes in your vehicle in the event you do get soaked.
Use a wading stick when wading unfamiliar areas. Several duck hunters have stepped into deep holes and died as a result. With a wading stick you can feel your way before taking the next step.
A headlamp is often better than a flashlight when duck hunting. It helps free up a hand for one of the many other tasks you’ll be doing. They’re especially helpful when setting out decoys.
Always wear a facemask, headnet or camo face paint. A facemask or headnet is preferable because sometimes face paint glares in direct sunlight. The use of headnets and gloves during early season not only helps with camouflage, they help to prevent mosquito bites.
Invest in a good pair of neoprene gloves that reach high up your forearm. They are especially good for keeping hands dry and warm while laying out and gathering decoys.
Use a camouflage pattern that blends with the surrounding foliage. A camouflage that works well in one environment may stand out like a sore thumb in another. Ducks have very good eyesight.
Some people like to carry miscellaneous supplies and gear in a backpack. Sometimes it is difficult to find a limb to hang the backpack onto. Carry a wader belt that can be clampped around a tree, then use a caribiner hook to attach the backpack to the belt. This also allows you to keep the backpack nearby and at a convenient height.
Don’t leave your killed ducks laying in view and especially don’t leave them belly up. Exposed dead ducks will flare away decoying ducks real quick.
When breaking ice, try to push the larger broken pieces of ice underneath the surrounding ice. If you have a bucket available, dip water and toss it onto the surrounding ice. It gives the appearance of a much bigger opening.
Don’t skybust. Skybusters shoot at ducks that are passing by, at or above the treetops. Besides likely crippling or missing the ducks altogether, they may circle and land if given the chance. Also, don’’t shoot the first duck that comes in if he is in a group. Let the first ducks commit, and shoot the trailing ducks. When you shoot the first duck, the others will flare away and present a poor shot if any shot at all.
If you see that you're going to be late getting to the hole or blind, be considerate of other hunters and avoid walking through or near their hole, especially when they have ducks working.
Give advance thought to where shot ducks will fall and how you will retrieve them. Some people hunt next to deep water that is too deep to wade. If a duck goes down in deeper water you’ll need a boat, a belly boat or a good retriever. Same consideration goes for cripples. Finish cripples off quickly before they swim to inaccessible water or cover.
When finishing off a cripple, use a lighter load such as 4's or 6's, and at a reasonable distance, otherwise you’’ll be looking at a mangled fraction of what was once a duck.
Use the first couple of flights as a template for the rest of the day. If the birds are flaring, you may need to be more concealed or there may be something wrong with the spread. Don't be afraid to experiment.
Carry an empty plastic trash bag. If you drop something such as a flashlight in the water, simply place your arm in the trash bag and reach into the water to retrieve what you dropped, without getting soaked. A trash bag can also serve as a rain poncho or a decoy bag when one rips.
Carry one leg from a pair of panty hose. You never know when you are going to shoot that rare duck that you'll take to the taxidermist. By placing the duck head first in the panty hose you keep all the feathers in place. It works really well.
Always have a flag with you. This can be more important on most days than calls.
Geese and ducks tend to play follow the leader when it comes to flying, so if birds are flying over you to an adjacent field or hole, don't be afraid to move your set up.
Extreme cold weather, 15 degrees or less, tend to make the ducks and geese fly later, say 1-3 pm. Don't give up too soon. By staying later has lead to some good shoots when other hunters have left by 9 am. "Can't kill them sitting on the couch. "
When hunters in another nearby blind shoot, their pellets will often rain down on your blind. You’ll hear the pellets as they hit the ground or water. To avoid an eye injury, look downward until the sound of falling pellets stops.
Shooting:
Pattern your shotgun before hunting season arrives. Try different chokes and different brands and sizes of shells to find the best pattern. Also use steel shot. Lead shot and steel shot will pattern differently.
Shoot skeet during the off-season to become proficient at hitting a moving target. Lead your shot and follow through. Most missed shots hit behind a flying duck.
When hunting with partners, decide in advance who will call “take ‘‘em”.
When hunting from a boat, always discuss before you hunt whether anyone stands up to shoot or if they all remain seated. It needs to be either everyone stand up or everyone remain seated, but not mixed. Make sure you and your hunting buddies agree on your zones of fire. This will avoid an accidental shooting of a person and make for a safer and coordinated hunt.
In cold weather, keep some loads close to your body heat. Steel-shot loads have slow-burning powders that will ignite better when kept warm.
When shooting at decoying ducks, be careful not to shoot over them. When ducks are landing they lose altitude quickly and it is easy to misjudge and shoot over them.
Always keep in mind where the decoys are located and avoid shooting them. It is easy to get caught up in the excitement of shooting decoying ducks and fire into the decoys. Especially be aware of the motorized duck decoy because they are usually mounted above the water and they are more expensive to replace.
Retriever Dogs:
Always be aware of where the dog is at. Don’t shoot in the direction of the dog. Be sure to stay in the blind and check with your guide or partner if you plan on retrieving a bird yourself.
Neoprene dog vests are great for warmth, concealment and a little help with buoyancy, but be alert to your dog’s whereabouts when he is retrieving a duck. Neoprene vests can snag on limbs and brush and cause a dog to drown.
If you haul your dog in the bed of a pickup truck, and have trouble with the dog sliding, try using outdoor carpet or astro turf, stapled to a sheet of plywood, in the bed.
Boating:
Nobody plans on ending up in the water, but it happens. Waves can overtop boats, boats can hit submerged logs, and lots of other things can happen. Always wear your Personal Floatation Device while boating.
Dont overload your boat!! When you add the weight of people, guns, decoys and other equipment and supplies, the weight adds up fast. Be cautious of overloading.
Ask your local grocery store for an old hand basket. They are easy to paint or camo and useful for carrying ducks in boats. It will keep the birds from freezing to the floor of the boat.
General:
Prepare and use a checklist. Everyone will have a different checklist unique to themselves. Take time during the off-season to prepare a checklist and use it. A lot of hunts have been ruined by arriving at the hunting hole only to find someone forgot something critical.
Always let somebody know where you plan to hunt and a general time you will be back (parent-spouse-friend) in the event an accident occurs.
Carry extra clothes and a towel. Bag them twice--they will float
Carry a cell phone and a first aid kit.
A good source for information is to watch duck hunting videos and read waterfowl magazines. Try to mingle with other experienced duck hunters and draw from their knowledge. A great start is discussing duck hunting here at The Southern Outdoorsman Discussion Forum.
