<XMP><BODY></xmp> survival kit article- extended

The Survival Kit article.

        This was originally a chapter for my travelling book, but grew and got out of hand. Rather than let this go to waste it is reproduced here in full form. This page is pretty much reproduced "as is", so some of my ideas may have changed a little.

A good site on military orientated survival kit
The excellent Equipped to Survive site.
An older article by me on surivival kits
phwestATgmailDOTcom

        Part of being a good traveler lies in the preparation beforehand. Another part lies in coping when things go wrong-a combination of attitude, preparation and improvisation.
        This chapter is mainly about selecting items to deal with emergencies -emergency or survival kit if you like, though we'll use the term with reservation, since many people assign this quite a narrow definition.
        To many people the terms survival and Wilderness survival are interchangeable. My "survival kit" is anything that makes my life easier rather than just a collection of items to let me spend the night in the woods. Many of the items mentioned will seem to be for a wilderness application, and you may be tempted to move to the next chapter if you have no interest in the great outdoors. In fact many of these items have proved just as useful in town, and sometimes you don't have a choice in avoiding nature. A railway platform can seem as cold and uncomfortable as any welsh hillside. Emergency kit doesn't just refer to what you can pack into a tobacco tin -it includes everything you have, have around you or know.
        The majority of emergencies seem to occur due to the loss, absence or breaking down of something, including yourself, or a combination of these. You can't prepare for everything, but you can anticipate what is most likely and select equipment appropriately. For a traveler in more populated areas, common problems are likely to be medical, theft or being stranded without accommodation or transport. For a motorist, a possible problem is likely to be the vehicle breaking down, resulting in a long walk or prolonged wait.

        The main item that all of us should have is a properly educated brain. Dealing with problems is best done with a combination of knowledge, imagination and determination. One can add to this a cool head and confidence, and these are mainly a product of practice and experience. Without the proper attitude, the best selection of items in the world is of no use at all. You can have a lot of fun selecting survival kit and finding novel ways to carry it and use it, but you mustn't fall into the trap of it becoming a psychological crutch. The majority of items in these kits are conveniences rather than necessities. They are items for which a substitute or replacement for can be produced given sufficient knowledge and materials -which is why I try to concentrate on teaching the principles behind things. Yes, it is easier to survive with a decent knife or lots of money but not having a kit makes things harder -it is not a death sentence. Spend an evening looking at each item of your kit and ask yourself -"how would I cope without this".
        How you handle an emergency is far more relevant than what you have. I was once sent on a management course, one of the proper ones that deals in psychology rather than playing at building bridges. One of the things they told me was:-

"Don't just do something, Sit there!"

        By this they meant that the most efficient way to do things was not to rush into things, but to sit and think about it for a moment. Often an easier way will suggest itself.
        If, for example, you realize you are lost, sit down for a moment. Smoke a cigarette, chew a stick, eat a sweet, do Tai Chi -whatever will calm you down. Often just sitting like this will produce a solution or allow you to realize where you went astray. "Count your blessings" -review what items you have with you that may be of assistance. That includes the resources the environment has as well as what you are carrying.
        Some instructors summarize this by the acronym STOP.
        As far as equipment for emergencies goes, there are two considerations.
        The first is that your emergency items are of no use if they are not accessible. You can carry everything you need to keep yourself fed and comfortable in a rucksac (or a motor caravan for that matter) -Problem is that you won't always have it with you. You're unlikely to wear a pack every waking minute and sleep in it, and even in the unlikely instance that you should try this there are plenty of ways that you can get separated from it. You can lose it when fording a river, drop it down a ravine, discarded when running from a bull, etc. Most of us will take off the pack when we can and leave at the hostel or campsite, taking just the items we expect to need for the day. That means the equipment in the pack is unavailable to you and what you carry with you must meet any emergency needs.
        In a situation when loosing your pack is likely there is no point carrying in your pack the items you intend to compensate for loss of your pack. You are more likely to put down or be separated from a pack than from a belt pouch or your trousers. There are some clever lists of outdoor equipment that can be built into walking sticks or staffs -but these will be put down or can be dropped. Likewise items stored in coats, rucksacs and shoulder bags are more likely to be lost since these will be taken off more often than trousers, shirts and belt pouches. Equally, there is no point in the motorist leaving his emergency kit in his garage.

        It's not just what you carry, but where you carry it, how close you keep it and how you use it.

        In the British Army, Infantrymen have their kit in three levels        Now, the purpose of this article is not to give you military training, but this example nicely illustrates several points.         The Woodsman of 1910 carried his emergency items in his shirt and trousers and adopted the strategy of sleeping in these garments so they were always with him. The garments themselves, of course, being part of what he would need to survive.
        It's not just what you have, it's the strategy of carrying it that is important.
        For a civilian a belt kit maybe a water bottle and rainwear and a belt knife (although such a knife may in fact be personal kit). We can loosely define this as the sort of stuff you wouldn't consider wearing in town, but would be smart to wear further a field.
        The second consideration is that kit also needs to be appropriate and you need to consider the likely needs. "See what the locals/ natives use" is a common bit of advice, but look closely.
        You'll see documentaries when a native walks around the jungle with just a loin cloth and a parang. What the camera may not show is the pack the director asked him not to wear, nor will it show the fact that the guy is with a bunch of mates and is only a hundred yards from his village where he can return for shelter, food or any of the tools he needs.
        Selecting kit means knowing about the environment you will be in. When in my home town I carry just a few general purpose items, many of which see regular usage. I'm unlikely to need a fishing kit and often in summer the clothes I'm wearing won't be suitable for the temperatures after sundown. It doesn't matter -I'm "close to base" and can meet any problems using survival tools more appropriate to the environment -notably money and my travel card.
        What you carry depends on what is available in the environment you will be in and how easily it is to get. The selection of items must be relevant to the conditions you'll meet. A friend who walks in the wilds of Missouri carries an extensive fishing kit because fish are in abundance should he need them. In an arid environment you'd need less, though it may help with trapping birds and animals. In town you are unlikely to need a fishing kit at all.

The Very Minimum.
        A friend of mine says "no one goes into the woods with me without a knife, whistle and matches". In "Due South" Benton remarks:- "Back home we don't trust anyone who leaves home without a knife, compass and some beef jerky."
        The minimum to carry on your person is a knife and matches. In the wilds I'd add some hooks, sinkers and line and a space blanket or trashbag. A whistle and compass won't hurt either. In town the most useful after a knife and source of ignition is money, more money, spare money, loose change and reserve money. These very basic kits are expanded using the descriptions below as a guide.

        The requirements of a kit can be prioritized by the how long the hazard it is intended to counter will take to effect you.        From the above, it will be seen that tools are very important in meeting most of these needs, and the most useful of all these tools is the knife. Tools can provide shelter, food, defence and fuel.
        
        The above requirements can be summarized thus:-
        
        Having looked at the principles behind emergency kit, we'll look at some examples -for ease of comparison all the lists are in a standardized order of categories. This list is a tool of my own devising, and can be applied to anything from a pocket kit to a full expedition outfit, and is useful for revealing the strengths and weaknesses of your selection. The priority of the different categories will vary and in some cases a category may be neglected entirely.

Uncle Phil's Standard List.
  1. Shelter
  2. Sleeping
  3. Clothing
  4. Fire.
  5. Water
  6. Food
  7. Hunting and Fishing
  8. Cooking Equipment
  9. Medical
  10. Tools
  11. Navigation
  12. Signaling
  13. Light
  14. Toiletries/Wash kit
  15. Books and writing material
  16. Rope and Cordage.
  17. Repairs -sewing kit, tape, glue, spares
  18. Specialist items - Defensive weapons, climbing gear, cameras etc.
  19. Packs -i.e. how the items are carried and bags that can be used for carrying found food etc.
        Referring back to the list above will help appreciate the logic behind the selections and the strengths and weaknesses of the selections.
        Emergency kits are not just restricted to the countryside.
A Urban only kit may contain :-

1-3)    Protection from the rain, A space or all weather blanket for those cold bus stops and train stations (and also a useful ground cloth for picnics in the park), or a small packing raincoat.
4)A lighter* and/or matches*
5)A Waterbottle.
6)Chocolate or sweets and any other food.*
9)Medical items- basic would be plasters*, aspirin*, disinfectant cream and possibly intestinal sedative, anti-malarials and insect repellant. Condoms*.
10)Penknife*.
11)Button compass* (quite useful in towns)
12)Candles, nightlights or torch* for powercuts.
14)Toilet paper or tissue
15)Guidebook, phrase book*. Novel or pack of cards for entertainment. Pen* or pencil*.
16)String*.
17)Sewing kit with safety pins.
18)Local currency*, Loose change*, travelers cheques*, Credit card*,phonecard*, travelpass*, phone numbers for reporting stolen cards or cheques*.

        Items marked " * " may be carried on your person, some in a pack or handbag. You'll notice alot of these items are the sort of things you might carry because you use them everyday. That's a strength since it means you are more likely to have the things when you most need them.
        Survival kit is a term that I'm using with reservation, since to many it conjures to mind the tobacco tin packed with useful items issued to service men and available in shops. As we've discussed, everything you happen to be wearing or have with you when things go wrong are included in your "Survival kit". The military survival kit assumes you will have combat dress suitable for the theatre of operations and probably your webbing too.
Typical contents are:-

1) Shelter ..............................
2) Sleeping ..............................
3) Clothing ..............................
4) Fire . Matches, Candle, Flint, Magnifying Glass
5) Water Water sterilizing tablets, Condom
6) Food ..............................
7) Hunting and Fishing Fishhooks and Line, Snare Wire
8) Cooking Equipment Tobacco Tin
9) Medical Pain reliever, Intestinal sedative, Antibiotic, Antihistamine, Anti-malaria tablets, Butterfly Sutures, Plasters (Band-Aids)
10) Tools wire saw, scalpel blades
11) Navigation Button Compass
12) Signaling lid used as Heliograph.
13) Light -Beta Light (not found in the standard kit)
14) Toiletries/Wash kit ..............................
15) Books and writing material -pencil
16) Rope and Cordage. fishing line?
17) Repairs sewing kit, tape used to seal tin.
18) Specialist items Potassium permanganate
19) Packs -tobacco tin.

        The infantry survival tin is mainly intended to allow squadies to live off the land if cut off from their logistical support. The majority of contents are to meet medical needs and there is limited trapping and fishing capability. For a soldier who still has his standard equipment it is pretty useful -I'd not like to have it as my sole emergency kit, as some authors seem to be suggesting. A sheet of waterproof material and a chocolate bar will serve me better.
        This tin is generally too well packed -you may feel what may be the start of a blister, but opening the tin will involve wrestling with a yard of sticky tape in the wind and the good chance something will pop out and get lost in the grass -so you don't bother and may be limping tomorrow. The tin is a neat little package for the quartermaster's shelf but to carry it needs a largish pocket and may not be comfortable in the pockets of many civilian trousers. You can put it in a jacket pocket -but jackets are removed and can potentially be lost -You'll note our woodsman kept his items in a shirt and trousers he wore whenever not bathing or changing. Also, keeping all your kit in a tin like this is very much "all your eggs in one basket".

        My everyday wear includes a Swiss army knife, watch, a lighter, a pen, some condoms, a baby can opener and whistle mounted on my keychain and usually a hank of string and a few bits of paper lurking in a pocket. All of these items have potential emergency uses and all are useful to have anyway or are not a burden. To this list I could add my credit card, money and travelcard. I could probably carry a few plasters, aspirin, alcohol swabs and safetypins too and sheet of foil might be useful.
        If I'm traveling any distance, I'll usually have a daysac which permanently holds a All weather blanket and usually some sweets, a Waterbottle and clothing. If travelling a long distance or a long time I'll carry my survival belt pack detailed below. This rides in my daysac or rucksac when in town, but is worn on my person if away from civilization. Naturally, if I know I'm straying far from civilization I'll add a decent belt knife, suitable clothing and a belt canteen in addition to any pack I carry.
        As an example of how the list works, we'll look at two kits in detail.
        On to a compact kit that will meet countryside needs too. Both are from John Lachuk's "The Gun Digest Book of the 22 Rimfire"

Lachuk's Micropack.

1) Shelter .....................................
2) Sleeping .....................................
3) Clothing .....................................
4) Fire . Magnifying glass, Flint and Steel, Matches, length of string for tinder. Birthday candle.
5) Water .....................................
6) Food .....................................
7) Hunting and Fishing Fishing line with hooks. Can opener as lure.
8) Cooking Equipment 12"x12" Aluminum foil.
9) Medical Three small and one large band-aid.
10) Tools Baby can opener, Single edged razor blade, Half a hacksaw blade (sharpened).
11) Navigation Button compass.
12) Signaling foil as heliograph? cartridge cases as whistle.
13) Light Birthday candle.
14) Toiletries/Wash kit .....................................
15) Books and writing material .....................................
16) Rope and Cordage. 30ft of Orlon cord.
17) Repairs Sewing Kit, Safety pins.
18) Specialist items Five rounds of 22LR
19) Packs Cassette case.

        This is a compact kit that fitted into a box that appears to be a mailing box for audio cassettes (available from Radio Shack/Tandy). Such a kit was cheap to make up so several could be made and left in each of one's coats or jackets. The 22 ammo was also intended to provide tinder, lead for fishing or the cases could be used as whistles. If there was no access to ammunition lead shot and hexamine could substituted. The baby can opener can also be used as a fishing lure, wire breaker and screwdriver. Since the kit is weak in providing for water I'd also add a condom and purification tablets for water carrying and several strips of bright coloured insulating tape on the outside of the box. There is no room for shelter materials in this box, but the pockets of the jacket could also hold a space blanket and also a butane lighter, chocolate bar, wire saw and whistle.

        Let's look at another kit Lachuk describes. This is intended to provide for your needs should you be on a day walk or straying from your camp. Lachuk calls this the Total Protection Pack. He also mentions Eddie Bauer sells a similar "Parka Survival Kit". Which is a based on which I don't know.
         Lachuk claims this kit should keep you fed and comfortable for a week or more and will fit in a daysac with enough room for your Camera, sandwiches or what ever else you take on your day trips. The following is an account of the contents, with my own additions and comments.
        As always, I've standardized the order of items.
  1. Shelter is provided by a 8ft plastic tube tent, though a Gore-Tex one would be more comfortable (but more expensive). Alternatives would be a Bivi Bag or a Basha sheet (tarp). In certain areas one would need to take poles for the latter, or utilize one's walking stick.
  2. Bedding is provided by a Aluminum Space blanket, or possibly the more robust "All Weather" variant.
  3. Clothing suggested was a rain poncho (additional shelter), warm gloves and sunglasses (also good for snowglare. A Polaroid pair should aid you in spear fishing). Sunglasses are an item I often omit from my lists, since I wear photochromic glasses all the time.
             I'd add a small packing jumper, bagged to keep the moths off; clean socks to change into after a river crossing, to replace a lost glove, etc and a hat. In fact there'd be two hats, a wooly one or a headover for cold weather and a brimmed one to keep of the sun. A mosquito net may be wise for some regions. A spare pair of glasses, if you need them, is probably wise.
  4. The fire kit includes two boxes of matches, 12 firestarters and a disposable lighter. Lachuk's Micropack (Carried on the body) included a flint and steel, which is probably why none is mentioned.
  5. Water is, of course, essential and the bag has 100 Iodine tablets to sterilize any you might find. If you can't find any there's a desert still to extract it from the earth and vegetation. There's also a half gallon folding jug and one pint Waterbottle. I'd discard the jug and go for a bottle of at least a litre. 2 litre Soft drink bottles have served me well in the past.
  6. Food. Two complete freeze dried meals and four canned concentrated meals (which don't need water to be eaten). There's also some trail mix and cereal bars and a brew kit.
  7. For cooking the meal there is a compact Propane stove and a backpacker's metal mug for cooking in. Most pocket stoves will do - Esbit Hexamine, Alcohol Gel, Mini Trangia or one of your own manufacture.
            Luchuk includes a knife, fork and spoon kit but in truth you just need a spoon.
  8. For when the food gets low there's some snare wire and a fishing kit (50yrds of 27lb nylon, 8 hooks, 2 flies and some sinkers). Not much use while you're walking but you can set traps and night lines before you retire. For more active hunting there's 10 ft of surgical tubing, some of which will make a catapult. It's also good for siphoning and tourniquets and such.
  9. Medical needs were mainly met by Cutterlabs Camp Pack, measuring 4x8x2". The Gregson Pack might be a European alternative. Also included was a snake bite kit, insect repellent, skin lotion, four tablets of vitamin B complex and 24 Antacid tablets. I'd drop the last three and add a tube of Sunscreen, but as I've said elsewhere, medical kits tend to have a lot of personal variations - one man's essential is another's luxury or dead weight. If you need insulin or other medication a supply should be included.
  10. The only tool included in the original list was a wire saw. To this we can add a good knife and a baby can opener, which was probably missed out since there's one in the Micropack:- You're going to need it to get into that canned food. No doubt, like myself the gentleman always carries a pocket knife and always wears a belt knife in the field.
  11. Navigation needs are met by a pocket compass, though a few maps would also be prudent.
  12. Signaling is provided by a heliograph although a smokepot and flares are mentioned as an option. A whistle was included in the pocket pack (another kit he carried resembling a survival tin) though others might wish to add one to this kit.
  13. For illumination, signaling and hunting there's a torch. There's also a 6" length of candle that will help conserve the matches when fire lighting.
  14. Hygiene is covered by a bar of soap (an excellent antiseptic!), a comb and a pack of tissues (a source of tinder - even if used). I can live without the comb but have probably got one in my back pocket already. I wonder if anyone reading can come up with a survival use for a comb?
  15. There's a notepad and pencil and three little survival manuals from Back Country Books :-"Survival in the Wilderness", "Food in the Wilderness" and "Medical Aid in the Wilderness". The Collins Gem edition of Lofty Wiseman's SAS Survival guide is an alternative.
  16. Cordage is provided by 50ft of 750lb nylon cord, and also by the 50yrds of nylon in the fishing kit.
  17. For repairs there's 10ft of 3/4" Duct tape. We can also add a pocket sewing kit here, since one was included in his body kit.
  18. An excellent idea from the pocket pack is to carry some money for the phone when you finally reach civilization.
  19. Packaging - The original equipment all easily fitted in an Eddie Bauer Teardrop Rucksac, though most good daysacs should accommodate the items as well.
        The above, like the majority of civilian survival information and kit suggestions one comes across, is written for the American mainland, and intended for outdoorsmen such as hunters and fishermen who become lost in the woodlands. Survival situations in the UK tend to be somewhat different.
        On the plus side, there are few regions of the land that are more than a day's walk from civilization. On the negative side, the environments where survival situations are likely to occur tend to have few natural materials that can be used for shelter or fire.
        Probably the most common survival situation that occurs in the UK is when a hill walker finds themselves lost and having to unexpectedly spend the night in the open. A vehicle that breaks down on a remote road or in harsh weather is another likelihood. One only needs to survive for a few hours before rescue is likely or civilization is reached, but this is ample time to die of exposure. Protection from the cold and wet long enough to signal for help or walk out of trouble is the main priority.

        The following is a suggested survival kit for outdoorsmen in the UK. The need for a survival kit in the UK likely to be short term but acute.
        Additional items are mentioned in the text below and can be included, depending on season, area and finances. You'll notice that many of the items are not those found in a military survival tin. Having equipment is one thing. The real skill is in how you carry it and how you use it. You can cram all these items into a daysac, but you should bear in mind that there are various ways you and the sac will become separated. Then all you have is what you're wearing or have in your pockets.
        My personal suggestion is to acquire one or more pouches on a belt. You can have some items in your pockets, but this means if you take off that garment, these items are not available. We'll refer to these items on the belt and in the pockets as the body kit.
         A Basic body kit might therefore contain:-
UK Walker's Kit.        We've made our selection above to meet the conditions and hazards that are most likely -in this case cold, wet and wind, which we have countered by providing shelter and warming foods and drink.
        
        What of an emergency kit for an international traveler who may meet varied conditions? My personal kit has undergone several changes over the years. It started off as a pouch of medical stuff with generally useful items such as a sewing kit, lighter, torch, button compass, candle, string and dental floss. When travelling it supplemented the items I always carry with me such as my lighter, penknife, pen etc. I decided to expand this into a more useful kit that would ride in my daysack but could be worn around my waist in wilder areas when it was more likely to be needed. My own kit is a little more extensive since it is designed to meet most of my needs during travel abroad. It fits in a small pouch with its own belt, and most of the time it stays in the rucksac or daysac, but can easily be donned should I stray from the beaten track. I can wear this around my waist, over my shoulder or around my neck as situations demand. Many items are packed so that they are protected from water but I avoid sealed bags since this kit may have to undergo customs inspection. Using clear bags so that you can see what the contents are is a good move too.
         Shelter needs are provided for by a space blanket and a polyethylene basha sheet. The latter is reinforced with tape at the corners and centre and is clear, so can be used as a solar still or tent in conditions where the space blanket would be preferred as a shelter because of its shade.
        Fire is provided by a spare butane lighter, candle, flint and steel, matches, film canister of Vaseline soaked cotton wool for tinder and the lens of the compass.
         For Water needs there is a bottle of iodine tablets and a plastic bag, the base reinforced with tape. The latter is used as a water carrier.
         There is a fishing kit, as detailed elsewhere, with traces that double as snares. The tinder container above is wrapped in yellow tape that can be used to mark floats. All this fits in one small plastic bag.
        A small medical kit of plasters and alcohol wipes, painkillers and immobulin, scalpel blades, adhesive sutures, all in a plastic bag. This is in addition to the main kit in the rucksac.
         Tools include a small lock knife, a wire saw and a sharpening stone.
        A baseplate compass is with the whistle in its own pouch, which also holds a bandanna. the former wrapped in bubblewrap and the latter in a plastic bag. Having the compass with the kit reminds me to wear the kit at the times when I want the compass, which is when I am most likely to need the kit. The tube of matches has a button compass stored under its lid.
         For signaling there is a heliograph with a laminated card of Morse code and a whistle.
         There is also a pencil and paper, string, paracord, sewing kit, insulating tape and potassium permanganate.
         The rear compartment holds everything else except for the heliograph and card, which has its own pocket for quick access.
        This kit is supplemented by the stuff I carry all the time on my person, and by items in the rucksac or daysac. My daysac nearly always holds a torch, all-weather blanket, suncream, insect repellant and water bottle.
        On a deliberate wilderness trek I'd also carry a sheath knife, waterbottle and metal canteen cup on my belt.
        A lighter kit could be made, but this still contains alot of stuff that is just useful and convenient to carry here. In a long term situation many of the contents would be moved out of the pouch and into my pockets.
        The above kit can be slimmed down a little. Many of the items might be better carried in plastic bags rather than film containers. The iodine tablets and the permanganate can be packed in milkshake straws and the ends heat crimped shut (but don't let the flame of the heat source too near the permanganate -it will burn fiercely so have a sink full of water nearby). Sealed containers tend to get opened by customs men, however, so maybe this is not such a good idea for an international kit. Once you have opened a straw yourself plug it with a bit of wood or cloth.

A Personal Kit the Quick Way.
        Buy a survival tin and empty out the contents into one or more plastic bags. You might still use the tin to hold some of the kit. If you decide to use it for something else, include a piece of foil and a heliograph in the kit. To the basic contents of the kit add a knife, a bag or container for tinder and a lighter. A bandanna is a useful addition and also carry at least a couple of yards of cordage and a space blanket or rubbish bag. I've called this a kit, but many of the items like the knife may be part of your usual paraphernalia.

Kit for Kids.
        As someone who's been sleeping in tents since he was eighteen months, you'll probably guess that I'm in favour of children enjoying the great outdoors from an early age.
        Most children will want to be like the adults and have packs to carry. This is a good thing, since, quite frankly, every item they carry is one less that you have to. Small rucksacs can be found, but what to load them with? Small sleeping bags are available for children, but these still may be too bulky for children. Its more likely that you'll be on a day trip, so contents will probably be some clothing and toys. High on the list is a rainproof and a bright coloured wooly or stockinette hat. In fact make sure that children are dressed in high visibility colours and sew reflective patches onto packs. There may be room in the pack for a little emergency food and some water. Remember when you were a kid? If someone gave you a tube of sweets and told you to save them till you really needed them, just how long would they have lasted? Trail mix is a better bet. Kids may pick out the tasty bits, but they'll still have the rest with them when they are really hungry. Most kids won't drink water unless they have to, so this lasts better than juice or coke.
        Although children should be taught to keep close to adults, there is always a possibility that they can become separated and lost and in such a situation even very young kids can carry a few items to make them safer or easier to find. The problem with young children and packs is that they may get bored carrying them if they are too heavy, or they'll be taken off if the child wants to run around etc. Children are very good at leaving stuff lying around and expecting mum to magically collect it. For this reason children should carry some emergency items in addition to anything in the pack. Best choice is a small pouch or bumbag. Items such as matches and knives are not suitable for very young children.
        Suggested contents include.
        A bright coloured folded rubbish bag with holes for the head and hands already cut in. Good idea to get the child to help you make this to impress on them what the bag is for. In the event of rain or cold the bag is used for shelter.
        A small light source. This can be a great comfort to a child alone in the dark, and may make them easier to locate. Young children may not be able to operate chemical lightsticks so the battery operated Krill light may be a better bet.
        A very loud whistle. Around the child's neck by a breakaway chain or attached to the bumbag by a lanyard. The child should be taught to blow the whistle whenever they lose sight of the adults. They should also blow it whenever they hear something moving nearby. Tell them it will scare animals away or attract rescuers.
        Another item to attach by lanyard is a small torch.
        The pouch can also include any medical information, a copy of the name, address and telephone number and some telephone money.
        All the equipment in the world will not save a child (or adult) unless they have some understanding how to use it and what to do.
        In America they have a concept they call "Hug-a-tree." Young children are taught that if they become lost they should hug a tree for comfort. This, of course, makes sure that the child stays in one place and is easier to find. Important is to teach the child that no one will be angry because they are lost. Children have been known to hide because they are ashamed of being lost or scared they'll be punished. Others believe search parties or helicopters are nothing to do with them because their parents couldn't afford to pay for them.
        Writing this section makes me realize just how much "survival lore" I acquired simply by growing up with interested, responsible parents. As a very little girl my aunt fell in a big patch of nettles. She was rushed to Casualty and through her tears she wailed that she wanted Dock leaves. Do you know the nurse had no idea why she'd want them!
        There are lots of ways to teach even very young children useful skills as part of normal play. Filling two bowls with hot water, covering one with a woolly hat then coming back a little later helps the child understand that it can keep warm by wearing its hat. A lot of useful information can be absorbed by even very young children, providing that lessons are kept fun and interesting. Most kids don't need any encouragement to use a whistle!

Vehicle Kit.
        I've already referred to being placed in a emergency situation by a vehicle breaking down. The choice of equipment for such a situation is much the same as if you are on foot -after all, you may have to resort to shank's mare. The important difference is you'll also carry items in your vehicle to maintain or repair the vehicle and you'll have a lot more room for your own kit.
        I recently came across a suggested survival kit to carry in a car. It included such interesting items as a mousetrap, but neglected to mention a stove, compass, Waterbottle or any way to carry the kit should you need to walk out.
        The items you can carry in a car.
        First you must cater to your steed's needs, like any good cavalryman. Minimum is a spare tire, the means to fit it and a container to carry petrol in. Economy jump leads can also be used for firelighting and an economy tow rope will prove useful. Also carry basic spares such as spark plugs and a fan belt.
        For your own needs you can exploit the extra room and carrying capacity to carry additional items. A cheap sleeping bag is useful to have in the back if crashing out at a friend's house. The German army surplus model converts into a parka. A travel rug can be folded in a bag to act as a cushion till needed. Carrying a rain poncho and gloves won't hurt either.
        You can carry a few cans or MREs or some other food that doesn't require cooking to eat, though having a means to heat this or brew up is nice. The stove could be petrol fueled, but keep a pint or so in reserve for cooking. Carry a couple of pints of bottled water too.
        Signaling equipment should include a warning triangle, a flashlight and some cylume lightsticks to illuminate repair work. Also include a paper and pen and a plastic bag so you can leave a message of your intentions should you leave your vehicle.
        You have plenty of room for full sized tools such as a shovel and a belt knife. A long handed shovel is preferred because it can reach under the vehicle when digging a wheel free. An axe and a timber saw maybe of use, as may be pliers, a crowbar and boltcutters in certain situations. If you look around you may find a shop that sells an "Escape hammer" which is designed to break through toughened windscreen glass and also has a strap cutter to sever jammed seat belts. An automatic centre punch will also break windshields and there is one model of a rescue knife that has one built into its hilt. Carrying a knife under your seat or on your dash for escape purposes may be illegal in some areas so if you can't find the hammer described, there are separate strap cutters available.
        Below is a list of suggestions -obviously you make your selection to suit the situation you are likely to be in. These are in addition to any camping kit you have and would stay in the car until needed. Don't forget a bag or pack to carry enough kit to keep you comfortable should you become a pedestrian.
  1. Shelter. Rubbish bags, Basha sheet or rain poncho.
  2. Sleeping. Travel rug, space blankets, sleeping bag
  3. Clothing. Gloves, wellies,, jumper and other cold weather clothing, spare socks, waterproof (plastic bin liner?), change of clothing suitable for outdoor wear, headgear, bandanna.
  4. Fire .Fire kit
  5. Water. Gallon jugs with dash of bleach added. Puritabs.
  6. Food. Soup, brewkit, sweets, nuts and raisins, tinned food or MREs.
  7. Hunting and Fishing. Catapult, firearms and trapping and snaring items, depending on how far from civilization you are likely to be.
  8. Cooking Equipment. Spoon, alcohol gel stove, cooking vessel
  9. Medical. First aid kit
  10. Tools. Spade, can-opener, knife, seat belt cutter, escape hammer.
  11. Navigation. Compass, maps.
  12. Signaling. Warning triangle, surveyor's tape, smokepots, flares, marker panels, heliograph, whistle.
  13. Light. Torch, candles, cylume light sticks
  14. Toiletries/Wash kit. Toilet paper, soap and toothbrush. Sanitary towels -also used for firelighting and medical needs.
  15. Books and writing material. Paper and pencil, plastic bag. Survival manual, Guide to edible plants.
  16. Rope and Cordage. Towrope, paracord.
  17. Repairs. Spares
  18. Specialist items. Jumpleads, Dampstart, bag of grit, old sacks, petrol can, warmpacks, money and change, fire extinguisher.
  19. Packs. Suitable pack or duffel bag to carry any items you would want to walk out with.

Ditch kits.
        I'm no sailor, but will pass on a list of various equipment that has worked for others. Lifeboats carry some equipment, but often this is very basic.
        When sailor Steve Callahan's yacht was sunk he'd planned ahead by supplementing his liferaft equipment with spare paddles, flares, a signal mirror, 6pts of water, fishing gear, navigation equipment and solar stills. He also had bagged "ditch kit" which he managed to pick up as he abandoned ship. The contents included 21 more flares, food, a knife, pencils, 2 more pints of water and a speargun. With this he survived several months adrift.
        More extensive gear lists have included:-

Kits for Light Aircraft.
        The above lists should provide a sufficient guide to put together an emergency kit for a light aircraft. This can be a medium bag of gear in addition to a personal kit. There should be enough gear and supplies for the pilot and any passengers carried and kit should be suitable for all of the terrain flown across. If any large body of water is being flown across the plane should carry a raft and ditch kit. A pilot I know of once had to ditch in an eight mile river, the only body of water he was to pass over for the whole journey.
        Because in most countries pilots have to file flight plans the likelihood of a search is high so kit should have more signal equipment than would normally be carried by a backpacker.

Bugout Bags.
        There's one final type of outfit we'll consider, which is termed a Bugout pack or go-bag. "You've got to be in Cairo tomorrow morning!" cry the office. You rush home, grab a prepacked bag and straight to the airport. That bag is your go-bag and you know it has everything you need in it.
        Such a prepacked bag can have more serious applications -it may contain everything you need should you be forced to abandon your home in the middle of the night. This concept is more popular in America where people are more aware of the potential of natural disasters, but in the week I write this, numerous Londoners had to abandon their homes and sleep in a local school due to a train accident involving aircraft fuel. In certain US states citizens are advised to assemble enough supplies to last them 72 hrs while awaiting aid. Citizens who anticipate having to flee from hostile humanity as well as mother nature suggest supplies for up to two weeks. Considering which items are suitable for such a kit teaches a lot about equipment selection in general.
        The main point is that such a bag is of no use unless it always contains what you need -it's useless if you fish bits of kit out of it to use for camping. Of course, if you have time to gather together your camping kit too, that will be of use, but many items of camping kit last longer and perform better if kept unpacked.
        If you live alone, camping kit and bug out kit can be one and the same, but if you live with someone this isn't wise since they won't have the kit available if you are out travelling. You'll know quite a bit about the environment you'll have to live in -it's your neighborhood and surrounding area. Bear in mind you may have to use this kit at anytime of day or season, and pack items accordingly.
  1. Shelter -shelter requirements are much as in previous lists. Basha and rubbish bags. If you have a family a large tarp or two will be useful.
  2. Sleeping -Sleeping bags don't respond well to being constantly compressed so blankets may be a better option- they can also be used as clothing. A good sleeping mat won't go amiss in winter either.
  3. Clothing -you may have to grab this pack in the middle of the night, so a complete set of day clothes suitable for open country is a minimum. You'll also need waterproofs and footwear suitable for travel. If you can't afford extra boots or don't have an old pair then trainers with good tread will have to do. Probably best to place the footwear beside the bag for instant wear, and a quick fastening system won't hurt.
  4. Fire .-a fire kit, naturally.
  5. Water -a couple of sealed plastic bottles of water, such as mineral water, or you can fill containers with previously boiled water, maybe adding a little bleach. Once empty the containers can be used to transport found water. Purification tablets to sterilize these new sources of water.
  6. Food - sweets or chocolate for energy, and food that does not need cooking or extra water for consumption. MREs are ideal and also meet the requirement for a long shelf life. A brew kit for morale if nothing else.
  7. Hunting and Fishing -depends on your area. A catapult and fishing kit are probably a good idea.
  8. Cooking Equipment -a spoon and a metal container to brew up in -mess tin, aluminum cup, old milk pan or cake tin. A cheap simple stove such as an alcohol gel pot. For a family kit a metal grill can be useful.
  9. Medical -first aid kit and a supply of any personal medication you or your family are liable to need.
  10. Tools -a good fixed blade knife and any other tools that are useful in the environment (axe if in a forested area, etc). If you know a potential escape route could be blocked then a crowbar or bolt cutters may be useful.
  11. Navigation-compass and relevant maps.
  12. Signaling-as covered in previous lists.
  13. Light- a lantern may be a great morale booster.
  14. Toiletries/Wash kit -soap and toilet paper at least.
  15. Books and writing material -even if it is just to occupy you. Survival guides and books on edible plants are useful, while others will find a bible of comfort. Useful documents such as birth certificates.
  16. Rope and Cordage.
  17. Repairs -sewing kit to repair damaged items. Tape.
  18. Specialist items - this includes items such as firearms -which if available should be selected for food gathering as well as defensive potential. Also included is a set of spare car keys on a safety pin and a list of valuables. As soon as you reach the bag you pin the keys to whatever you are wearing and use the list to locate and collect any valuables or additional equipment if there is time. Be realistic, the TV and Music centre will have to take their chances without you. Also included are items unique to your region's requirements, such as skis or hill walking sticks. A radio receiver maybe useful for weather reports and information broadcasts.
            After an earthquake a hardhat and dustmask may be useful.
            Nappies for infants.
  19. Packs -packed in a suitable carrying bag, with the keys pinned to it and footwear nearby. In earthquake areas it has been suggested that a supply of equipment be cached some distance from your home, so you have a supply should your home be reduced to rubble. Such a cache should be well hidden and secure to prevent theft.
            Pack this gear into a container and place it in a larger container and bury this. This allows you to remove the inner container easily without alot of digging.

Signaling and Signal equipment.
        As I've said earlier, signaling for help is going to be alot more effective if someone is looking for you. Inform someone of where you are going and when you expect to get back.
        Radio equipment. There was a time when radio transmitters were only available to the richer or better equipped travelers. The growth in the use of mobile phones and CB rigs has changed this. Make sure that your battery is full charged and you are familiar with local emergency frequencies. Test all equipment before travelling. Some equipment can be recharged by a vehicle engine. You may have seen radios powered by hand dynamos in old war movies. Modern equipment lacks this useful feature, but it is possible that Bayliss Clockwork technology might fill this niche.
        Modern radio beacons are very compact and will transmit for several days, usually on 406 MHz. These may have to be registered with local rescue services.
        Audio signaling.
        The standard international distress signal for radio transmission is "Mayday" (from the French "M'aidez" -Help me). "Help" should be comprehensible to most listeners.
        If restricted to non-verbal communication(Morse key, signal lamp, heliograph etc), SOS (save our souls) is ...---... in Morse- three dots, three dashes, three more dots.
        The international mountain code distress signal is six sounds a minute, followed by a minute of silence. These sounds can be whistle blasts, gun shots, whatever, or the signal can be made visually. Or you can send SOS at one minute intervals. Acknowledgement is three blasts/ flashes.
        Whistles are small enough to be carried all the time, and save the voice. When directing a companion to act as a bearing, as described elsewhere, a whistle can be used to direct him -one blast for "move right", two for "move left", say. Hunting horns have fallen from fashion, but the sound carries further than a whistle, and you can send such useful signals as "head back to camp, dishing up in one hour". Airhorns and vehicle horns are good as long as there is power.
        Gunshots and other pyrotechnics can make an useful means of signaling by sound. A method not mentioned in many books is the signal drum. If stranded with a vehicle, certain parts of it may make a very good drum. Certain tree trunks or logs may also serve.

Visual Signals.
        Anything that looks out of place or unusual can be used as a visual signal. In a mainly green or white terrain anything red or orange will stand out. A condom flown as a balloon or a improvised kite may attract attention.
        Straight lines are very rare in nature, as are equilateral triangles. Signal fires are often arranged in triangles since three of anything is often recognized as a distress signal. This also makes it easier to keep them fed or light them in a hurry.

Signal Fires.
        At night these produce light, in day they produce smoke, so are the ideal way to signal if in a fixed camp. A good pyre is built on a platform supported by a tripod, which ensures a good flow of air and keeps it off the damp ground. You can save yourself some work if there are small trees or bushes with branches you can add dry fuel to. The fuel should be mix of dry stuff that will light quick and burn well, and green stuff that will produce lots of smoke. Basic rule is dry stuff at the bottom, damp stuff at the top. Rubber tires and oil can be added and produce dark smoke. Evergreen boughs will keep the rain off and produce good light coloured smoke. Ideally you should have three such pyres built in a triangle but a single pyre is still good.
        If in light coloured terrain such as desert or snow, produce dark smoke. If in darker areas, produce light smoke. The more contrast, the more chance it will be seen.
        If on the move have a supply of bright burning or smoke producing material by your campfire in case you sight a rescuer. Resting at midday and burning a smoky fire might be a good habit anyway.

Lights.
        Any light in an unusual place may be investigated, but it will be more noticeable if it is flashing, and even more likely to attract help if signaling SOS or the mountain distress signal.
        A normal campfire can be made more visible by positioning it before something reflective.
        Most torches run on batteries and it is prudent to conserve these by just signaling for a few minutes each half hour till you get a response. Some torches have a flasher button, but without one it is simple to just cover the light with something. Emergency strobe lights are purely for signaling and are visible at great distances and can flash continuously for several hours. Batteries will last even longer if conserved as described above.
        There are torches that are powered by a handlever so need no batteries, though the ones I've seen do not seem as robust as the compact shockproof, waterproof battery torches in vogue at the moment. There is a Baylis clockwork flashlight, but this is quite large, and there are also solar powered torches that charge up during the day. The flashgun of a camera could be used to signal.
        You can also signal with a burning brand. Swing the brand in a figure eight to your right for a "dot", to the left, slightly slower for a "dash". In daytime this can be done with a flag, bandannas or just the hands.
        On the subject of Morse code, even if you use it everyday, carry a copy. Amazing what you can forget when stressed. Mine is laminated and kept with my heliograph. I've also a copy in my wallet.
        Some flashlights may be bright enough to be seen in daytime. More likely is the use of a heliograph (signal mirror), particularly if it is sunny. Anything shiny can be used, it needn't be mirror reflective. Glass such as watch faces or binocular lens have been used. Only drawback is that you need sun and it won't work in if the sun is behind you.
        A "proper" heliograph has two reflective sides and a hole in the middle. You sight on the target through the hole and angle the thing till you see a spot of sun on your face in the reflection on the side facing you. You then angle the heliograph till the spot of light reaches the sight hole. Alternately, and for single sided reflectors, hold one hand before the mirror and direct light onto your hand. Use your hand to aim this in the desired direction then take the hand away. You can buy heliographs, but mine was made from a square of tin with a hole drilled in the middle. The Morse code card is tied to this.

Ground Signals.
        These have the advantage that once they are made they require no effort. Ground writing has proved very effective, but do not underestimate how big the letters should be - make them as big as possible. SOS is enough, though some survivors have selected HELP since they were unsure they could do the curves. The straight lines probably stand out better, and a great big H maybe best. An arrow showing where you are camped is a good addition. Maximize contrast with the ground. Snow writing can be improved by cunning use of shadow, dyes, paint, wreckage or oil can be added to letters. If you have lots of fuel you can burn your message into a hillside, lighting a dusk for maximum signal effect. Beware of the fire spreading though.
        A parachute of a contrasting colour to the ground can be spread out to be highly visible. You can also use this as a cover for a signal pyre or as a shelter, but correctly positioned it can do several jobs.
        Anything shiny can be laid out as a signal, such as bits of vehicle wreckage. These are also good to build signal fires on. If you carry a roll of aluminum foil this can be used for ground writing.
        In one of my favorite movies a character gets a truck to stop by stretching several streamers of toilet paper across the highway. Toilet paper could also be used for ground writing or to create streamers etc that will attract attention. Carry a contrasting colour such as pink. (Bet you never though that this book would even tell you what colour toilet paper to carry)
        Some lifeboats have dye cartridges that create a big coloured patch of water around the lifeboat. On land this could be used to mark the ground or write out a message. Potassium permanganate has been suggested for the same job on snow. An alternative to sea dye is a long pink plastic strip that streams out behind the liferaft. This is the SEE/RESCUE (11"x 40ft) or the POCKET/RESCUE (6" x 40 ft). Unlike dye this won't wash away. Instead of looking for a little dot in a sea of blue the search pilot sees an exclamation mark, which is alot easier since it stimulates more of the visual cortex. Because of the way the brain works the 6" version is visible at close to the same distances as the 11". These strips only need to be six inches wide so could be improvised from any suitably coloured floating material torn into long thin strips. These strips can also be used for ground marking if on land.
        Flares. These work best when there is a good chance that a potential rescuer is looking in your direction.
        Flares can be very dangerous -make sure that you are totally familiar with the operating instructions. Shooting it into the bottom of your dingy or lap is counter productive.
        Hand held flares. These are a sort of "instant burning brand" and can be used to signal in the same way. These can also be attached to staffs to raise them higher and make them more visible or planted in the ground. In some countries road flares are widely available. There is also a "Day/ Night" flare that has a handheld flare in one end and smoke bomb in the other.
        Meteor flares. These are the more familiar type that shoot a fireball up into the air. The majority of these are intended for marine use, so are still burning when they hit the ground, so there is a danger of causing grass or forest fires. For land use flares are probably better employed as a quick ignition for signal pyres rather than being shot in the air.
        There are two types of launcher common with backpackers. One type (Pains Wessex "Miniflare 3" or Orion "Pocket Rocket") is a pack of "miniflares" and with a pen shaped discharger. The other (Skyblaser "XLT Wilderness") resembles a marker pen with an extending barrel and a pullcord firing mechanism. The latter is a self contained single shot device that can probably be squeezed into any handy space in a pocket or pouch. The former type is more commonly seen. The XLT Wilderness is designed for safe use overland, while the standard XLT and miniflares may still be burning as they reach the ground.
        Flare pistols are reloadable and reusable. If carrying alot of flares, as you'd want in a lifeboat, a flare pistol and reloads will take less room and weight than an equal number of self launching flares. In other words you can carry alot more shots. Some modern designs are made of plastic and are very light. There are also 12 bore flares that can be used in 12 bore flare pistols or conventional shotguns (though being without a working shotgun may be the reason you're in trouble). In a Ditch kit I'd probably want a spare pistol and/or a few self launching flares, just in case the pistol malfunctions as the rescue plane appears. Miniflares with a pair of discharger pens is an alliterative, and these are said to work better than 12 bore flares.
        Parachute flares have a parachute to keep them in the air longer. They are usually designed for illumination rather than just signaling so are very bright.
        Smoke bombs. Smoke is a useful signal in daytime since the survivor himself doesn't need to be visible, though smoke can be dispersed by the forest canopy. Smoke bombs allow you to generate a smoke signal without needing to build a fire, and also provides the pilot of a SAR helicopter with information about wind direction. Smoke can be used to stain patches of snow.

Moving Out or Staying Put?
        Whether to stay put or move out depends on several factors. The first is how likely it is that someone will come looking for you. If you successfully sent out an SOS or someone knows where you are and that you are overdue this is highly likely. Stay near the location of a plane crash, since this is very visible to searchers. Once you have established that the wreckage is safe (fires burnt out, etc) it may provide lots of useful materials. You should stay near such a wreck for at least three days. Use the time to construct signals and prepare for a possible walkout. If you landed in the sea or your boat sank, keep near that location for 72 hrs. Use a sea anchor to reduce drift.
        Even if no SOS was sent and there is unlikely to be a search, stay where you are if on a major communication route, such as a shipping lane or flight path, since there is a good chance of being spotted anyhow. If your car has broken down you should stay in it, or at least near it if it is possible other vehicles will pass by.
        You might not stay at the site of your accident or breakdown if:-
        The area is dangerous or too exposed.
        You can move to a area where rescue is more likely, such as a communication route.
        You are certain that help is close by (garage or village nearby, land in sight).
        You know for certain that no one is likely to look for you or pass by.
        If three days is up or you decide to move out it is better to travel while you still have your strength, but make sufficient plans and preparation. Also at the crash site or vehicle leave an indication of which direction you are heading and any other information that might be useful to a rescuer that arrives after you are gone. Leave a direction marker at any subsequent campsites.

By the Author of the Scrapboard :

Blog of the Books.

Attack, Avoid, Survive: Essential Principles of Self Defence

Available in Handy A5 and US Trade Formats.

Survival Weapons: Optimizing Your Arsenal
Crash Combat Second Edition with additional content.
Epub edition Second Edition with additional content.

Crash Combat Third Edition
Epub edition Third Edition.
Anatopismo: An Underrealm Novella
Hell-Ay: Angel Town
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