The West Mark 1 grew from a desire to have a stove that could use both natural “found” fuels and commercial fuels. Having something that would not cost the earth was also a bit of a consideration.
The following text describes the basic West Mk1, though I’ve taken the liberty to add a few new ideas that I would incorporate if I ever have to build another.
The Method.
Acquire two catering-size tin cans, one of slightly greater diameter than the other. The larger can should be wide enough that your billy or cook pot can fit inside it with about a centimetre airspace around the sides. Ideally the smaller can should still have its lid.
Cut the lid off fully and drop it into the smaller tin so that it sits on the base. The interior of both parts should have been fully cleaned.
Take a Church key and create a ring of holes around the rim of the base. This creates a series of holes and the folded in tabs should hold the lid in place against the base. This creates a double layer that will prolong the life of the stove. If you couldn’t get the lid just cut the series of holes.
Turn the can over so that the base is up –this is the new “top” and is the “hotplate” that you will place your pans on. In the side of the can, near the “bottom” cut a door of about 1.5-2" square. Through this you will feed the wood and adjusting the door will regulate airflow. My door is held on with little wire loops. It’s not particularly tight, but opening or closing it does make a difference. Some people use small hinges, others just have an opening and don’t bother with the door. You could also have a guillotine-type door.
What you have created so far is a basic hobo stove, but now we are going to add the first variation. Mark a circle on the base of the larger can the same diameter as the top of the smaller. Cut this circle out using whatever means you have, for example drilling a ring of interlocking holes and then filing to shape.
Make or buy three or four “L”-shaped brackets and attach them to the inside wall of the larger tin, for example by pop-riveting. You could use nuts, bolts and washers, in which case you may be able to do without the brackets. The brackets or bolts should all be at the same level, and of a height that when you place the larger can (the windshield) over the top of the smaller (the stove) it should just cover the ring of Church key holes.
When I built my first model, I placed these support bolts on the outside of the stove –inside the windshield is better.
Using the Church key, penknife awl or a large diameter drill create a ring of holes just below the rim of the top of the windshield. If using a Church key cut off the tabs.
You now have a hobo stove with a windshield that will direct hot gases up the side of your pot, increasing heating efficiency. For frying you can put your frying pan on top of the hotplate (without the windshield) or on top of the windshield for a gentler heat.
Adding the Multifuel capability.
My original Mk 1 can use three fuel sources other than wood and natural materials: alcohol, alcohol gel and solid fuel tablets.
Easiest to understand is alcohol gel. This usually comes in a small paint tin, sometimes with a simple pot support. Instead of placing the hobo stove over a small fire of twigs and coals, you place it over the tin of burning alcohol gel.
To use fuel tablets you need to raise them up closer to the pot bottom and ensure an adequate supply of oxygen. To do this you create a “hearth” from a normal-sized tin can. Use a tinned steel can rather than an aluminum drinks can. Drill or punch numerous holes in the bottom of the tin, too small for the fuel tablet(s) to fall through. Drill holes in the side of the tin too. These can be larger. The idea is to allow air to flow in and up under the fuel tab. Alternately make a cylinder of mesh with a finer mesh on top.
To burn alcohols such as methylated spirit I use a Trangia burner. You can buy these as a spare from Trangia stockists. Various other types of homemade alcohol burners are described on the Wings pages and any of these can be used instead.
You can also use a shoe polish tin filled with sand and alcohol.
The Trangia happens to be the right diameter in sit in the inverted “hearth”, but I seldom use it this way since the flame is high enough to lap round the pot sides even when placed on the ground. The same happens with my Swedish Mess Kit stove which has a Trangia-type burner, so this is not a fault in my stove design. Other designs of alcohol burner may need to be closer to the pot, so a simple means to raise the burner such as this is the solution.
Variations.
Getting a can for the windshield of the correct dimensions can be a bit of a quest. A better strategy may be to construct it of aluminum sheet, such as the siding used by Bill Jones, or oven liner.
My own stove doesn’t actually have the “hotplate” made from a double-thickness of material. Instead the base was cut off except for two inch wide “bridges” of metal that the pot rests on. In retrospect I think the hotplate is better, and is probably safer should you be cooking near a tent awning. It also offers better protection to the flame should it be raining.
My hearth as described above sits on the ground, which can sometimes be inadvisable. I quite like the idea of modifying the insert used in the “Fallingwater” stove:
Mount brackets or bolts on the inside wall of the stove. Create a ring of mesh and mount one can into the centre as described. Drill small holes (or slots) in the base of the can. You can drill larger ones in the can sides, but since the hearth is suspended in the air this isn’t really necessary.
Bottom up this tin can be used as a hearth for fuel tablets. Turned the other way up it is a cup to hold your preferred alcohol burner.
Like many stoves, you need to lift the upper assembly off if you want to add a simmering device or to snuff out the flames. Adding a couple of handles to the outside of the stove is a good idea.
This next idea originates from a conversation with my friend Chris Smith. When using solid fuel tables or an alcohol burner there is no reason why it can’t have a chimney of its own. These can be simply made by “toping and tailing” a tin can and raising it up with three or four legs so air can still get to the flame.
Meccano springs to mind for the legs, though you could also wire on a few meat skewers. If you are using a raised burner you may be able to make a chimney from a tin with sections cut out (right image, above). Or you could make a taller chimney by joining two cans together, etc. Top of the chimney should probably be a couple of centimetres below the hotplate or pan bottom.
Not only will the chimney improve efficiency, its use should also reduce heating of the stove’s outside.
By the Author of the Scrapboard : | |
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