AUTHENTIC EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA PIG PICKIN  

 When autumn’s sweet fragrance is in the air, although the days are still very warm, the nights carry a chill. The leaves begin to change their colors as we ready for a different season.  With the coming of cooler temperatures, we in the south begin to think of pork and that festive gathering called a PIG PICKIN. 

For those who have never been to an Eastern North Carolina pig pickin, you have missed a treat.  Those of us who have, can immediately identify the fragrance of smoke from hickory as it blends with roasting pork.  The fragrance has been known to draw noses for miles as they seek out the source.   

In the South and especially in North Carolina, BBQ is the food of politics, the food of love and the food of celebrations of family and friends. It is appropriate for almost any occasion. Those not in the "know" might think it a bit undignified but let's remember that when Miss Scarlet O'Hara went to the BBQ at Twelve Oaks she was dressed to the nines! Our doctors today warn us of pork consumption but just start a hickory fire and invite one. You can bet he will show up with his "on call" beeper attached and elbow his way up to the grill or cooker.

The traditional pig pickin is done with the entire dressed animal, “butterflied” on a huge cooker  that sports a cover and smokestack.  Many are hand made by splitting and hinging a  255 gallon drum which is mounted on a rack.  You can actually rent one if you aren't lucky enough to either own your own or know of a neighbor you can borrow from. The animal should dress out at 75 – 100 pounds. Be sure to instruct the butcher to split the backbone so it will lay flat on the cook surface.  This will feed 50 to 75 people generously when accompanied with traditional side dishes.

Side dishes vary from region to region or from family to family as to what it "traditional". You can choose from such items as  baked beans, pintos, cole slaw, steamed cabbage, collard greens, baked sweet potatoes, candied yams,  fresh string beans, stewed (not just boiled) potatoes and always have plenty of hush puppies or cornbread. 

However, for those of us that would love to enjoy the flavor without the company of the entire neighborhood, I share the following. What I offer here is a scaled down version from the pig pickin that calls for the whole hog to be split and sacrificed on the fire. 

There are two secrets to Eastern North Carolina BBQ.  The first is in the slow cooking process that never dries the meat and the second is in the sauce.  In Western North Carolina the sauce is is red from the addition of tomato sauce or ketchup but not so here. Now, wrangling the sauce recipe from a “pro” is kinda like wrestling an alligator with one hand tied behind your back.  With that in mind, you can appreciate my generosity.

 Buy as many Boston Butts, fresh hams or shoulders as you feel you need to take care of the number of people you’ve invited plus the “drop-ins”.  You should have at least one pound per person; then add a few pounds for manners and hopefully some of the best leftovers you’ve ever tasted.  

Soak a large bag of hickory chips or chucks and place them on the home grill on a bed of moderately hot coals.  Insert a meat thermometer in the thickest part of the meat (without touching the bone) and place it on the grill, fat side up.  Close the lid and cook the meat on slow heat (around 225 -250 degrees is good) and slather on the sauce at regular intervals when the meat is nearly done, NOT BEFORE.  This process should take from 6 to 8 hours, so begin accordingly.  Should the outside begin to brown too much or appear to burn, tent the meat with foil and turn more often.   NEVER serve pork cooked in this manner until the meat thermometer registers 170 degrees.  The juices should run clear with no pink visible. Bear in mind that the meat will have a pinkish cast to it near the edges  if it's been cooked over hickory wood. This is normal.

 If you want to serve this sliced, allow the meat to rest for 15-20 minutes before carving.  If you prefer pulled pork, as soon as it can be handled begin to pull it from the bone.  At this point, it’s difficult to resist the temptation of  “Picking the Pork”.  You may also chop the BBQ for sandwiches.  After slicing or chopping add a generous slather of the remaining sauce before serving. Be sure to have plenty of sauce on hand for the adventurous or the true connoisseur to add to their individual serving.  

This may be cooked and frozen for up to three months.

 EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA BAR-BE-QUE SAUCE

 Mix one gallon of apple cider vinegar, ¼ cup of salt, 2 tablespoons of ground cayenne pepper, 3 tablespoons of red pepper flakes and one cup of firmly packed brown sugar.  Combine all ingredients at least four hours before you plan to use it or the night before. 

 Option:  If you prefer a reddish looking sauce, decrease the cayenne pepper and add 1/4 cup of Texas Pete hot pepper sauce. No other brand is authentic. Some folks also substitute 1/2 cup molasses for the brown sugar.  It gives a sweeter flavor but it’s not recommended for Eastern North Carolina BBQ authenticity.  

 This makes enough sauce for a whole hog so be sure to save/protect the left-overs.  You’ll want to use it again! Most folks put the sauce back in the vinegar jug after mixing, punch holes in the lid large enough for the pepper flakes to pass thru and shake the sauce onto the meat to prevent contamination. Under no circumstances should you use the sauce on the cooked meat as a condiment if you have dipped a basting brush/mop into it that has touched the cooking pork.