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ESCAPE to the NORTH


Page 5

Call of the Loon

June 19th. This morning I woke up to the call of the loon. I got up and quickly dressed to go out and have a look at it. This will be the first time that I will have seen a loon on this trip. I had heard their forlorn cry before, but it was always from a fair distance, but this one was really, really close. When I got out of the tent, I was engulfed in a thick, dense fog. I could see nothing but a vail of whiteness. It seemed like a person had suddenly just lost their sight. I can hear the loon call out its forlorn cry, somewhere out there in that milky whiteness, somewhere, out there in that dense fog. It sounded so much like a mother, calling out to it's lost child. It sounded so beautiful, and yet, at the same time, I can also feel or sense of deep sadness within that call. I gave up trying to get a view of the loon in this thick soup. After a while, I went back into the tent and made some breakfast of eggs, bacon and potatoes, with toast and coffee. While I had my second cup of coffee, I smoked a cigarette. Then I packed the gear and took the tent down and loaded everything into the canoe. The fog had not lifted by then as I had expected it would. Padding in this white soup, I could just barely see the shoreline if I stayed real close to it. But I wanted to cut across a bay, so I went by my compass bearing instead. The river was smooth as a mirror as I paddled on. The sun finally had burnt off the fog and I noticed that I was just passing the small town of Thorne on my left side, (the Ontario side of the river). Thorne has a population of under 5,000 people, spread over a wide area. I was contemplating if I should land here or continue onward to Temiscaming that was a little further up the river, on the Quebec side. I decided to go onward to Temiscaming because it was not only a larger community, but it was there that I would need to find some sort of transportation to get around that dam. My ankle is still not well enough to make any kind of a portage. Soon I was paddling next to highway 16 for a spell and then changed course to follow the Quebec shore all the way up to the pulp and paper mill town of Temiscaming. Temiscaming in Algonquin language means "deep waters". The waters are indeed deep around here, with depths of more than 200 meters, or more than 102 Fathoms are registered in certain areas of the river. Temiscaming is built on a mountainside. Its style is mostly of Anglo-Saxon and is known as the "Garden City". Temiscaming is a company town of Tembec I think, which is the pulp and Paper company that is the main employer to the people of the Temiscaming local area. Tembec is considered to be one of the best and biggest producers of dissolving and special sulfite pulp in the world. Their products, I am told, are sold in more than 50 countries. I found a place where I was able to tie up the canoe beside a steep bank. I walked on over to the first person that I saw and asked that person if he knew where do I go to see about getting my canoe and gear over or around the dam? The person informed me that I would have to go to that island called, Ile du Long-Sault. The dam stretches out from both sides of this island. I thanked the gentleman and went back to the canoe and made my way towards Ile du Long-Sault. I tied up at the dock that was there and walked up to the tourist information center. In this place was a great deal of beautiful native crafts of all kinds. I asked the lady at the counter to whom may I see to transport my canoe and gear around the dam. I had explained that my ankle was too sore and weak to make a portage. She made some phone calls but had trouble finding the person she was trying to reach, so she phoned someone else and he came over with his pick-up truck. We loaded the canoe and gear and drove the short distance to the dock on the other side of the dam where the town of Temiscaming is located. I handed the man twenty dollars, but he only wanted 10. I told the man to take the twenty for being so kind to help me during his lunch break. I would not take no for an answer. After we talked a little while, he had informed me that I could set up my tent here while I went to get some supplies. After saying our farewells, I unloaded the canoe to an area that was away from the dock, out of the way, so to speak. This area is screened from the town by a hill of thick bush and trees. A person came by and I ask him if it would be all right to leave my tent here? He informed me that I could. Another person came by and I had asked this person if there were any restrictions to setting up my tent here? The person told me there were none, but the young people come down here at night time and cause much mischief, drinking and vandalism. After a little while, a police officer came by to ask me for some I.D. I had to explain to the police officer that I had lost all of my I.D.s in a canoe mishap I had a while back. I gave the officer all the information he required. Then I asked the officer if it would be all right to keep the tent here for a day or two while I got some supplies and spent some time to tour the historical sights of this town. The officer informed me that I would be better off to find another location, for young people come down here at night and cause much vandalism. I decided that I would only spend an hour or two to get some supplies and then I would continue on my way up the Ottawa River. I went to the local supermarket and bought what food I needed to get. Then I went to the hardware store to get the house and garden bug spray and that big frying pan I wanted. Loaded with everything I had, I went next door to a restaurant and ordered some fried wings, with fries and coffee. After I had my meal, coffee and cigarette, I asked the waitress if she could call me a cab. When it arrived, I loaded my things into the cab and headed back to the dock. Then I took down the tent and loaded everything into the canoe. Soon I was paddling up the river as the sail began to fill up with a good stiff breeze from the south. Despite the stiff breeze, it was a beautiful, warm, sunny day. Soon, Temiscaming disappeared into the distance. I entered a narrow deep channel that was formed by an inlet and went around it in the hope to find a landing place so that I could re-pack the things that I had bought in Temiscaming. But there was no good place to make a landfall, so I doubled back to the river and continued on my way. By evening, I started to look for a camping spot. As usual, the terrain is steep with huge boulders scattered all about. I finally found a tiny area that may be large enough to set up the tent if I spent some time clearing the area of bushes and small trees that was between some huge boulders. It is better than nothing, I thought, and I am afraid from what I have seen so far, of the general area, I will not find a better spot before it gets dark. After clearing the area, I realized it was not so level as I had first thought. It is sort of sloping ground, but it will have to do for now. As I had said, this is a hard area to find a good camping spot. Not like southern Ontario where you have gentle rolling hills and plenty of level ground. But here, Oh my, it is a challenge. What a beautiful day it was today, though. I am writing this in my journal with the last rays of light fading away quickly. I turned on the radio and the weather forecast calls for thunder showers tonight and all day tomorrow. I may have to stay in this cramp tomorrow. I just hope that no water gets into the tent when it rains hard. Will see, and hope for the best. At least it is not cold. That in itself is some good news. June 20th; Today turned out to be a fine day with a cloudless sky and the sun beaming its warmth down upon me. I had broke camp at about 7 A.M. to continue my journey up the Qttawa River with the help of a light breeze from the south to help me along. This sail sure comes in handy. It is like you have two people paddling the canoe instead of one when the sail catches the wind. I just passed Point Opemican and I am entering a very narrow channel with a strong current. The wind is also picking up now. I hope that it lasts until I get through this narrow gap. I stayed close to shore where the current is the least and start paddling hard. The wind picked up some more and I get through the fast current of the channel. Once past this gap, you are on Lake Temiscaming. The Ottawa River is now behind me. There are a lot of cottages around here on the most southern part of the lake, on the Ontario and Quebec shores. The scenery is now changing from the high, steep shoreline to a more gentle rolling hills landscape.

Getting into gentle rolling hills.

That should make it easier to find a good place to make camp, I think. But I had not expected to see so many cottages this far into the wilderness. This was a little bit of a letdown, for no trappers would be found here where there are cottages around. As I sailed-paddled along the Ontario shoreline, I came by Point Mc Martin that was on the Quebec side of the lake. Right across from it (Ontario side) was a small sandy beach area. It was now 3 P.M. and I debated if I should continue on or make camp here. Well I was in no big hurry, and I did not have any deadline, so I decided to make camp. After I had pitched the tent, I made my first afternoon meal in that new big frying pan. What a beautiful day it is. Boy, it is sure nice to be around nature and all this wilderness. I just love it. I am real glad that I had left Toronto, despite all that has happened near the start of this journey. This is the life for me. I do hope that I will come across a trapper soon. One that would want a helping hand and want some company. It is a lifestyle I really would like to try. I re-packed the gear and went for a short walk. By evening, it began to rain. Boy, and how did it rain! It came down like buckets, and the sound of thunder was that loud, I could feel its vibration through the air. The lightning lit up the whole sky and landscape. I sat in the tent and contemplated on all that I had encountered so far. How sweet life really is. All I plan to do now is just enjoy the rest. I turned on the radio and I was able to pick up a radio station in New Liskeard on the F.M. band.

June21st. This morning I woke up in the midst of fog that was as thick as pea soup. I was awake at 4 A.M. and made breakfast, packed the gear and took down the tent and was paddling up the river by 6 A.M. The lake, what I can see of it was like a sheet of glass. When the sun had burned the fog off, along came a strong wind from the north. It was hard slugging for the next five miles. I could not find a decent landing for the shoreline here had once again became very steep and was a solid wall of rock. This was not a good place to stop paddling. By the time I had reached Grand Campment Bay, I was totally worn out. At least here is shelter from the strong wind. I knew that it was no point trying to go on paddling against wind and current, that I decided to look around and find a place to make camp. This wind was not going to abate soon. The only level ground that I could see was on a high bluff that overlooked the whole bay entrance that was sheltered from the wind. After I had made camp, I got out my sketch book and drew my encampment. The wind lasted the entire day and night. The weather forecast calls for rain for the next two days. I will have to stay here until the weather clears up if the forecaster is right. I hope not.

Camp at Grand Campment Bay

June 22nd. This morning there is rain pelting on the tent. The weather is cool and the air is damp. I had to light the camp stove to get the dampness out of the tent. Buy 11 A.M. the rain had stopped and there was a light wind from the south. So I decided to pack up and get going while the wind will be at my back and push me along further north. For I remember when I had listen to the weather report, the forecast had said that the wind for tomorrow will come from the north. As I rounded Buffalo Rock and came to Nagi Bay, I met a man named Gord, and his daughter in their boat, fishing. I stopped to say hello and we had a good long chat. Gord Ford lives around the Callander, North Bay area, who was originally a Newfoundlander. He took a photo of me and told me he would send a copy. He gave me his address and told me to write him once I get settled. I had told Gord that I was looking for trappers to hook up with. Then I paddled on. By the time I was well past Indian Creek, the wind blew too hard that I could make no headway. In fact I was loosing ground. I had to turn around and head back to Indian Creek, for that had a sandy landing. I found a place that was sheltered from the wind and made some coffee to wait out this strong wind. After an hour later, I knew that this wind was one of those all day type wind. So I decided to stay put and make camp. Across the lake from me is La Grande Chute where some Americans had put up a business there that caters to running the Grande Chute rapids with kayaks. They have a big Lodge there and I can see through my binoculars the people who are in their kayaks running the rapids. By late afternoon, it rained again. It rained all through the evening and night.

June 23rd; This morning there is scattered clouds with the wind comming from the south. After breakfast, I decided to break camp and continue to head northward. I want to take a look at the Matabichuan River where it flows out onto Lake Temiskaming. It looks like to me from looking at my map, a very interesting place to explore. The day turned out to be bright, sunny and warm. By 3 P.M.. I had reached the area. I can see the Huge Hydro Dam that is located on the Montreal River which flows out into Lake Temiskaming. As I sailed-paddled into the bay of Matabichuan River, I noticed that there were a few cottages along its shoreline. So I made my way towards a small island that was located just south of the river where it offered an excellent camping area. I landed on the little island and noticed that someone had at one time, made a campfire here. The little island is clean and tidy with very little bush or trees. I decided to make camp here, so that I would not be too close to where the cottages are. After I had set up the tent, and unloaded the canoe, I built a fire on the fireplace that had been already there and offered up a thank you prayer to GOD, my Heavenly Father, for this beautiful day and that I had arrived here safely. After a quick late lunch, I did a little fishing. But after an hour of not getting a nibble, I headed back to camp. There are a lot of big, black flies, around here. These were brought in to combat the investation of the tent catipillar that are attacking the trees. These tent catipillars strip the leaves from the trees. These big, black flies are like house flies, but only bigger, but they do not bite. I had wanted to explore the Matabichuan River, but because there are cottages located there, I decided not to. Instead I spent the rest of the day around the little island. Soon, I will cook some supper after I finish with my journal entry. The weather forecast calls for strong winds and rain for tonight and tomorrow. But what a beautiful day it was today. At least I am here, near the Montreal River. I can see the big dam from my tent. I wounder what the Matabichuan River is like? According to my map, Its waters flows from Rabbit Lake that also flows on to Temegami, another place I would like to see. But I noticed that there is a dam blocking its passage a short distance up this river that one has to get around. But for now, I am just happy to be where I am. Did I mention that today was such a beautiful day?

June 24th; This morning it is raining so I decided to sleep-in a little. When I woke up again, I made some breakfast of pancakes with butter and Maple Syrup, along with coffee and a delightful cigarette. I like to have a smoke after a fine meal. Now that I am well fed and content, I had really nothing to do while it rained outside, but to contemplate on some conversations that I had with people that I can recall while travelling up the Ottawa River. I recalled one person, whom I shall call, Jerry, (Not his real name) about a discussion I had with him about the First Native people. Jerry was talking about the local "Indians" in which he did not have anything good to say about them. He see's all Indians as good for nothing. He gripes about how these Indians get all that money from the Government and are too lazy to work. That they will rip the clapboards and planks off their house instead of cutting logs for firewood. He say's that they are a bunch of drunks and the only good Indian is a dead Indian. After he took a spell to catch his breath, I reminded Jerry that they had their lands stolen from them. That they were always looked upon by most "whites" as the lowest class of people. That they had been deprived of basic human rights that we take for granted. Given all of these facts, did he not think that their spirit had been trampled upon and broken and they care very little of any self asteem or what people thought or expected of them because of what our predominated, or should I say, demonically "Christian" civilized people had done to them? I know that Jerry considers himself to be a Christian, a Romam Catholic, because I can see a medel of the Virgin Mary, the mother of their god, hanging from his neck. Besides, I told Jerry, there are good and bad people in every segment of human society, regardless who, what or where they happen to live or call themselves. I do not de-grudge the First Nation people anything, I told Jerry. Rather, I am happy for them that they are now, at last, getting the things that we have always taken for granted in our "white" society. I reminded Jerry that had it not been for the First Nation people, we would have become part of the U.S.A. right now and not a nation under British, or now, under our own Canadian Rule. In fact the original intent of the British Crown (The King and Queen of England) was to hold and safeguard the land in trust for the First Nation people to keep the money hungry, land grabbers from taking any of the First Nation peoples native Lands. But because of extreme pressures from the settlers, the "Lords", along with the various Christian churches and business enterprisers, hoodwinked and doublecrossed the Crown from its original intent and goal by taking these protected lands from the First Nation people and give it to the settlers by deceit, or simply stated, by hook or by crook. Our history in the making of Canada had not been as horrific as what had happened to the First Nation people in the U.S.A., thanks to the senseability of the British people mindset during that era, but the end resault was the same for the First Nation people here in Canada. I am glad, that our Canadian Government is trying to address this miss-carriage of truth, honour and justice. Anyway, I do not agree with Jerry's thinking. I just hope that the words that I had spoken to him, some of it might have rubed off and soaked into his mind. I found that Jerry's views about this whole issue is typical of the truly uninformed. There are many among the First Nation people who by their inner strength, and their will, and with great determination, had resolved to see justice be done, as are those people who are working alongside with the First Nation people to see that these injustice are resolved and set right. We can not now turn back and relive that era in history in order to try to rectify all the wrongs that had been done. But we can now look back into the pages of our history, from the point of view of both the Crown, our Government and its people and the First Nation people to reveal all that had been done in our past, and help us to resolve the injustice that had been done and set things right. This revealing of our Canadian history will also help the First Nation people in their persuite of justice, and at the same time allow all of us, as Canadians, as human beings who are not trying to hide from the truth, to become a better people and a better nation that we can all be proud of. Anyway, this is how I feel about this whole issue. I thank GOD, that there are a great many Canadians who think and feel as I do. I see on my map that I will be coming soon to a town called Ville-Marie. They have a Trading Post Fort there that I would really like to see. I love getting into history. They also have a grove of twisted cedar trees that they call the Enchanted Forest that will be very interesting to see. This has to be one of those, a must-see stop, for me on this trip.

Jornal will be continued on page 6.

Continue on Page 6

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