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                                                        When searching for a clay source in the desert near my
                                                residence, I look for visual clues that indicate a certain textural
                                                quality. I look for tightly compacted clumps of earth that have
                                                been checked and cracked wide in the desert heat or, when near
                                                a water source, I look for a cohesive span of slick, compacted
                                                earth. After locating a possible source, I subject it to a tactile
                                                test--moistening a few handfuls, feeling it, smelling it, rolling it into a
                                                ball with my hands. There is a distinctive slick feeling, an adhesive
                                                quality and a resonance when the material is patted and slapped
                                                that identifies good clay. The final test to confirm the nature of the
                                                material is rolling it between the hands to form a snakelike “coil.”
                                                Ordinarily, earth breaks and tears in the coiling process while clay
                                                has the distinct quality of retaining its shape. My method of forming
                                                a good, useable clay body from the raw material begins by mixing
                                                the clay with water making it into a slush that is subsequently
                                                poured through a screen to strain out any rocks or other debris.
                                                The clay must be allowed to settle out for several days after which
                                                the excess water at the top is poured off. At this point the “mud,”
                                                as I affectionately call it, is felt by hand to determine grit content
                                                and adjusted to suit what I consider a strong, workable recipe.
                                                        The water content of the clay body determines the ease with
                                                which it can be worked. The prepared clay must be in a range
                                                somewhere between “collapsing” and “cracking.” Using a plaster
                                                wedging board facilitates the removal of any excess water from
                                                the mix. The board also provides a good surface on which to work
                                                out the air bubbles by kneading and slamming the clay against it in
                                                a process known as “wedging.." Now the creation of form begins.
                                                My hands and a few simple tools are all that are needed to work
                                                the clay into the final shapes.
                                                        The completed forms must be dried very slowly. Clay shrinks
                                                as it loses moisture and rapid dehydration causes cracking. This is
                                                by far the most time consuming element of the entire process. It
                                                requires much patience because it seems as if nothing is happening
                                                at all.
                                                        Clay posesses unique properties that enable a process called
                                                quartz inversion to occur. With the application of extreme heat,
                                                through a process called “firing,” the clay gains a hardness
                                                resembling that of stone. Once the forms are dry, each piece must
                                                be fired to trigger quartz inversion which will permanently harden
                                                the clay. The earthenware clay body I currently use fires to a
                                                substatial hardness in an electric kiln which slowly climbs to an
                                                ultimate temperature of 2000 degrees Farenheit and then slowly
                                                cools.
                                                        When colors other than those of the unadorned clay body
                                                are desired, the firing process is doubled. After the initial firing is
                                                completed, I wash on a mixture of desert minerals or ores which
                                                are blended with water or a small amount of clear ceramic glaze
                                                to facilitate adherance. After a relatively short drying period, the
                                                pieces are then fired a second time, completing the process and
                                                rendering the additional colors as permanent as the stone-like
                                                clay body itself.

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