Precisely as the double-towered church of Arnheim struck six on Thursday morning, September 11, 1850, the Graf de Paris put on her steam, and we left the Dampfschiffahrt for the Upper Rhine. The river was low, so that we could not obtain as satisfactory a view of the country as if our deck had been on a level with the top of the banks. Enough, however, was visible to certify us that from Arnheim to Duisbourg, where we left the river for a time, (others say to Dusseldorp, 32 miles below Cologne,) the natural scenery is uninteresting and monotonous. Nothing strictly modern appears but the steamers. The towns on the lower Rhine are old and apparently ruinous, and belong to an order of things shaking to its foundation, and soon to pass away, to paralyse the energies, and to mar the happiness of mankind, no more.

The Rhine is a river of great political importance. It rises on the east side of Mount St. Gothard, in the canton of Grisons, and forms the boundary between Switzerland, the Roman Helvetia, and Tyrol, the ancient Rhoetia, Vindelicia and Noricum in part. Afterwards it flows through the Lake of Constance, and divides a portion of Bavaria, the two Alsatian departments of France, and the Rhenish province of Prussia, from Germany. It then flows through the Netherlands, called the Pays Bas, where it divides into several branches, called Waal, Yssel, Lech, and Old Rhine, by which it empties itself into the German Ocean. For the student of prophecy it is interesting and important to know, that the Rhine was the north-east boundary between the Pagan Roman empire and Germany. Hence, as the Ten Toe-kingdoms were to be divisions of the Fourth Dominion represented to Daniel, which is the Roman, they must be sought for as existing in the latter days upon its territory. I say, in the latter days, or "time of the end," because they belong to the Assyrian Image, which was representative of what shall be in the latter days—Daniel 2: 28; and because when Jehovah Shua (He who is powerful, i.e., JESUS) shall come, their kings will make war upon Him to their own destruction—Revelation 17: 14. A line running north-east from the right angle formed by the Rhine below the Lake of Constance, to Ratisbon, the Regina of the Romans, and Regensburg of the Bavarians; and from thence along the Danube to Carnuntum, called Altenburg, brings us to the south-west angle of the Roman province of Dacia, which comprehended Hungary, the Turkish principalities of Moldavia and Wallachia, and the Russian province of Bessarabia to the Tyras or Dniester. This Dacia, but imperfectly subdued by the Romans, was divided from Sarmatia, or European Russia, by a part of the Carpathian Mountains, and the Dniester, which falls into the Black Sea. Thus the Rhine, the Danube, Carpathians, and the Dniester, divided the Roman nations in Europe from the Germanian and Sarmatian tribes of the land of Magog, comprehending the "Rosh, Mosc, and Tobl," i.e., "all the Russias."

About 9A.M. we arrived at Emmerich, a town of the Rhenish province of Prussia, on the right bank of the river, and close by the Netherlandish frontier, with rather important manufactures, and eight thousand inhabitants. A league from this place is the mountain of Ellenberg, celebrated by the Wells of Drusus, and the fine view from the summit, which commands all the surrounding countries. When we were made fast to the wharf, the custom-house officials boarded us, having first stationed one of their number with a drawn sword to keep the gangway. Many seemed troubled in spirit at the overhauling of their affaires. Much baggage, much trouble, vexation, and delay, in European travel; but we escaped all this, having condensed our wardrobes into the smallest possible dimensions. We were detained at Emmerich about two hours. The officers having dismissed us, we continued to ascend the Rhine to Duisbourg. Rees, Zanten, and Wesel, are the principal towns of interest between Emmerich and Duisbourg. Rees, on the right bank, has three thousand seven hundred inhabitants, who are largely engaged in agricultural business. Anciently it was noted for its fortress, and now for a Gothic church. Xanten is on the left bank—has three thousand two hundred inhabitants. Its environs are rich and picturesque, and its manufactures of cloth, cassimere, &c., flourishing. It is remarkable for its Gothic collegiate church, and Roman antiquities. Wesel, on the right bank, is a strongly fortified city at the junction of the Lippe with the Rhine. It has sixteen thousand inhabitants, numerous manufactures, and considerable commerce. Having arrived at the mouth of the Ruhr, about 4 P.M., we landed, and pursued our way on foot two miles and a half to Duisbourg on the Ruhr. This city has a population of eight thousand, with a large trade in coal, and is said to construct the best steamboats that float upon the Rhine. The Bahnhof, or station, on the road from Hanover to Dusseldorf, from which we had to take the train is here. The cars came up at six, and we were soon on the way for Deutz, via the capital of the ancient duchy of Berg. We arrived here before dark. There was no time, however, to see the city. Soldiers abounded in every direction among the crowd, an evidence that the eyes of the government were watchful of the people. The Rhine is here fifty feet deep. The city contains twenty-eight thousand inhabitants, carries on a considerable trade, especially with Holland, has a great number of various and important manufactures, and is famed for its literary and artistic institutions. The chateau and garden of the Prince of Prussia are at Dusseldorf, being at present the capital of a governmental district of the same name.

It was quite dark when we arrived at Deutz, so that we could see nothing of the place. It is situated on the right bank of the Rhine, opposite to Cologne. It contains the Hotel de Bellevue, which is said to be the grandest establishment of the kind, with a fine garden, frequented of an evening by the distinguished beau monde of Cologne. Deutz is connected to Cologne, or Coln, as it is called in German, by a bridge of boats; this we crossed, and, with a sharpened appetite, made the best of our way to the Hotel der Dom, our quarters for the night.

Cologne is one of the most famous and ancient cities on the Rhine. It forms a grand semicircle of about two leagues and a half in circumference. The segment is turned towards the Rhine on a breadth of four thousand three hundred and eighty paces. The Baienthurm is the upper point, and the Thurmchen the lower. In the days of Constantine the Great, Cologne, then called Colonia Agrippina by the Romans, became the throne of one of his bishops named Maternus; and in 745 was raised to the dignity of an archbishopric. Heribert, its ecclesiastical prince, (997-1021,) was invested with electoral privileges, and, in the course of time, considerable dominions were acquired. Since 1263 the archiepiscopal electors resided usually in Bonn, on account of altercations with Cologne, which relied upon its privileges as an imperial city, and was not willing to be unconditionally subjected to the authority of the archbishop. In the period of 1577-83, Archbishop Guebhard, of Waldburg, turned Protestant, being, not convinced of its truth, but enamoured of the fair Countess, Agnes of Mansfeld, whom he married. The city is strongly fortified, and contains ninety-five thousand inhabitants, and two hundred and twenty-seven public edifices, of which twenty-five are churches, and eight chapels. It is the spring-head of the celebrated Eau de Cologne, and gives a name to many hogs-heads of earth’s water that never mingled with the Rhine. Among the monuments of Gothic architecture, the Dom, or cathedral, stands preeminent. This was hard by our hotel, from which, as it was nearly opposite, we could view it at leisure. It is styled a "sublime edifice;" but for myself, I never saw a human fabric yet, whose aspect excited in my brain the idea or feeling of sublimity. Its association with the Papal superstition, which is my abhorrence, creates such strong feelings of another kind, that all rising sense of the sublime would be speedily smothered in the smoke of my burning indignation at the cathedral-craft which has so long enchained and brutalised the minds of men.

The cathedral of Cologne was founded in 1248, and since the days of the Lutheran reform, left unfinished, though at present the work is going on, and its completion intended; but the saying is, that "the world will come to an end before the purpose is accomplished." In the middle ages Cologne was a powerful and far-renowned commercial and manufacturing city, could array thirty thousand warriors, and had a population of more than one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants; but now it is simply the largest city of Rhenish Prussia.

The weather being very pleasant, we were desirous of availing ourselves of it, for the purpose of "viewing the beauties of the Rhine," which begin to show themselves at Bonn. Next morning, therefore, we left the little baggage we had in the care of our host, and without waiting for breakfast, we ticketed ourselves by rail for Bonn. Between Cologne and Bonn the Rhine is exceedingly serpentine, and presents nothing of sufficient interest to induce the traveller to incur the tediousness of the navigation. By rail we passed rapidly through a pleasant and well-cultivated country. Bonn, celebrated for its University, the former palace of the Electors of Cologne, at which Prince Albert received his education, is situated on the gentle slope of a hill, near the river, in view of superb mountains on the right bank of the "majestic Rhine." Its population is estimated at eighteen thousand inhabitants. Its most interesting buildings are the University; the Cathedral; the new Church of St. Remi, formerly the church of the Minorites; the Hotel de Ville, commenced in 1737; the Hotel of the Direction of the Mines of Rhenish Prussia, formerly the property of the Elector, and the Theatre.

By 8 A.M. we were on board the Dampfschiff, or steamer, bound for Mayence, or Mainz, where "the beauties of the Rhine" are said to end. My attention was soon arrested by two curious-looking creatures, called "friars." The shape of their heads indicated that they were animal and sensual; and their garb, that they were devilish. Their heads were all shaved and shorn, but the bare crown-scalp was covered by a silk skull-cap, which made up all the head-gear they rejoiced in. Their hair was coarse, like the dry, uncombed stubble of newly-fledged jail-birds. Their garb was a long black gown which covered the whole person, from the neck to the feet, encircled at the waist by a genteel imitation of a rope, a white silk tasselled cord, loosely tied in front. I do not say that this garb indicated that they were devilish, because their master, the Devil, wears such an one. Having no acquaintance with him, I cannot testify on this point. His worshippers say that he is black; in so far, then, as colour is a criterion of affinity, we may regard the relationship as established; but I do not argue the devilishness of these friars upon that ground. Their garb is a regimental of the odious Papacy, a system of knavery, superstition, falsehood, and foolery, such as the world never knew before, and never will again, after it shall have been terrifically destroyed by the enemy of all wickedness, the Mighty One from heaven. No one can wear the badge of this power as the doers of its will, and be pure of heart, and have clean hands. Men who serve a power that has risen in the world by the energy of Satan, "with all deceivableness of unrighteousness in them that perish," can only be of devilish disposition. Their proximity was to me the nearness of serpents. Though protected from the machinations of their order by my nationality, and had therefore nothing to apprehend from them, still I felt a loathing which I could not forbear expressing to my companions in travel. But in matters ecclesiastical on the Continent, they seemed afraid of their own shadows. They declined conversing about friars even in English, so that I was left to my own reflections upon the magnitude of the evil which had cursed Europe for ages, and on the romantic chivalry of the men who, in the 16^th century, confronted the whole power of the Papacy to diminish it, when to protest against it was to incur the certainty almost of imprisonment and torment, or death. How necessary it is, even where faith exists, to add to it courage! A faith without courage can never overcome the world; and they who fail in this conflict, can have no part in the kingdom of God—Revelation 21: 8.

Having partaken of a very refreshing breakfast below, we spent our time on deck, enjoying the castellated mountain scenery of the Rhine. Opposite to Bonn is the Siebengebirge. This name, signifying the Seven Hills, is bestowed upon a number of lofty peaks which extend from Honnef to Dollendorf, along the course of the river. The highest is the Loewenberg or Lion Mountain. It rises 1796 feet above the Rhine. The steepest is the Drachenfels, or Dragon-rock, which towers from the border of the river as a colossal wall, with the ruins of an ancient burgh upon the summit. While the different charming points of view upon the seven mountains are being enjoyed, the tourist may also observe on the left bank the town of Godesberg, with the fine ruins of an old Roman fort. Above Godesberg, and half a league below Remagen, the pretty town of Unkel is situated in a picturesque country. From this a series of villages extends to the Siebengebirge. Opposite to Unkel is the famous little Unkelstein, formed by fragments of basalt, some of which being scattered in the river, render the navigation somewhat insecure. In the environs of Remagen are a great number of ancient Roman monuments; and some hundreds of paces behind the town is the mount of the Romish St. Apollinarius, whose head is said to be preserved in the ancient Gothic church. The view from the top of this mountain must be delightful.

Opposite to Linz is the embouchure of the Ahr, which crosses the highway from Coblenz to Bonn, a short distance below Sinzig, before it falls into the Rhine. The old Roman castle called Sentiacum occupied this position. The church of Sinzig is a pretty Gothic building, consisting entirely of tufa. There is a little chapel at this place, which contains a very remarkable natural mummy, which is preserved and venerated by the superstition of the town as the body of a saint named Vogt. Saints have, no doubt, been always very scarce in these parts; hence the supposed necessity of carefully conserving the head of one, and the toe of another, as "salt" to preserve them from being cast out and trodden under foot of men.

Fourteen miles below Coblenz we came abreast of Andernach, with its walls, and sullen and sombre towers. This very ancient town, known to very remote antiquity under the name of Antenacum, was a citadel on the Roman frontier. All its streets are narrow, angular, and gloomy; and all the houses, with few exceptions, small, sombre, low, and of a construction as ill as they are antique. Four miles above this fortress of the old Iron Monarchy, we came to Neuwied, the capital of the dependent principality or earldom of Wied. It extends itself in a smiling plain along the right bank of the Rhine. It contains about 6000 souls, and is distinguished by the great regularity of its position. The most beautiful building of this agreeable town is the chateau where the Prince resides. In the building of the pheasantry in the garden of the chateau there is a rich and interesting collection of natural objects collected by Prince Maximilian during his two years’ sojourn in Brazil. The two houses, known as the Bruder and Schwestern haus der Herrenhutter, (House of the Moravian Brothers and Sisters,) are said to deserve the attention of visitors.

Ten miles above Neuwied we arrived at the union of the "blue Moselle" with "Father Rhine." On the triangle formed by these rivers at their junction, Coblenz is situated, fifty-four miles below Mayence. In the days of the Romans it was called Confluens, from which its present name is derived. It is a fortified city, and formerly the residence of the Elector-archbishop of Treves; and under the French it was the capital of the Department of the Rhine and Moselle. The latter is crossed by a beautiful Gothic bridge, reared in the middle of the fourteenth century, and thoroughly built of freestone; while a bridge of boats eleven hundred feet long across the Rhine connects the city with Ehrenbreitstein on the opposite bank, in the valley and at the base of the mountain of that name. Coblenz is at present the capital of the Rhenish province of Prussia. It contains 23,000 inhabitants, and is noted for various and important manufactures, considerable trade, several literary institutions, the former electoral palace, several remarkable ancient churches, and for its fortifications, among which ranks first the very strong fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, standing on a towering rock of considerable altitude. This strong place during the war of the revolution experienced all sorts of misfortunes. After the first passage of the Rhine in September, 1795, by the French, General Marceau blockaded it for a month. It experienced the same fate twice during the campaign of 1796. After the fall of Napoleon it was assigned to Prussia at the partition of Europe by the Powers. In 1816, its repair was commenced, and continued at great expenditure of means. The construction of the new works is remarkably solid, and excites the admiration of all who behold them.

Passing through a draw in the bridge of boats, we left Coblenz, which continued in sight, however, till we entered the bend of the river beyond the mouth of the Lahn. On the left of this river are seen the ruins of the ancient castle of Lahneck, reared in the beginning of the fourteenth century on the top of a mountain by the Electors of Mentz; and on the right bank near its mouth, the town of Niederlahnstein. On the left of the Lahn, and quite near the Rhine on its right bank, is Oberlahnstein, in the duchy of Nassau. Opposite to this place, or rather a little below it, is Capellen, a village leaning against a rock; and behind and above it are seen the ruins of Stolzenfels, a remarkable Gothic mountain castle, with many sculptures and Roman antiquities. Stolzenfels has been converted into a royal chateau by the King of Prussia, to whom it was presented by the city of Coblenz in 1825. It was here he entertained the Queen of England on her visit to the Rhine.

Above Oberlahnstein is the little town of Braubach in Nassau, which is noted for its strong castle of Marxburg, reared at an early period of the middle ages. It is the only fortress of that time in preservation upon the Rhine. It is in good condition, and worthy of examination as a specimen of the strongholds of a barbarous and iron age. The little town of Braubach at the foot of the mountain is very ancient, being named in a title-deed extant, dated A.D. 933. Several miles above this in Nassau is Bornhofen, having a convent considered fine. High up above a vine-plot are the ruins of Liebenstein and Sternberg Castles, or "The Brothers." Beyond these in the same duchy is Welmich, with its Gothic tower and picturesque environs. It was once overawed by the castle of Thurmberg, named also the Maus, of which only the ruins remain upon a lofty and precipitous rock. A short distance above this we came to St. Goarshausen, opposite the Prussian town of St. Goar, and twenty-seven miles west-north-west of Wiesbaden. Close by on a steep hill stands the ancient castle of Katz, which was reared in 1393, by John III, Earl of Katzenellnbogen, whose line became extinct in 1479. Below St. Goar the Rhine forms a lake surrounded by walls of rocks which contains excellent salmon. St. Goar owes its origin and its name to a hermit who, having established his cell in this place, applied himself to the instruction of the poor fishermen. St. Goar, which had already experienced great misfortunes in the Thirty Years’ War, was more lately severely treated by the French. The Lutheran church, finished about 1465, contains many tombs of the Princes of Hesse, and fine paintings upon glass. The Popish church, where the image in stone of the hermit who founded it is seen, possesses some well-executed sculptures, which serve to sustain the superstition of its ignorant devotees.

After passing St. Goar, your attention is arrested by Lurleifelsen, a remarkable rock on the right bank. On the opposite side of the river, as tourists ascend the Rhine, they are saluted by the crack of a rifle fired for the sake of the echoes produced in this region of rocks. The shout of the passers-by is said to be repeated fifteen times by echo. The reverberations of the rifle were many, but how many I did not think to count. Tradition says, that this rock was inhabited formerly by one who by his cries allured navigators into the whirlpool. Lurleifelsen is the terminus of a very savage and imposing piece of Rhine scenery which begins below Oberwesel. Here the valley becomes narrow; the banks are uncultivated; on both sides, two walls of rocks rise up without soil or verdure from the water, and spread their dark shadows over the stream. The convulsions of nature must have been tremendous to rend a passage for the Rhine at this part of its course. A little below the Prussian town of Oberwesel are the imposing ruins of the castle of Schonburg; and opposite to it the pretty little town of Caub in Nassau, of 1350 inhabitants, whose principal resources are the cultivation of the vine, and the navigation. The ruins upon the high mountain below Caub are those of the ancient fortress of Gutenfels. Opposite to Caub, upon an island of rocks in the Rhine nearer the left bank, is a massive structure of a somewhat singular form, called the Pfalz or Palatinate. This little castle was reared at an early period of the middle ages, and from the position near the channel, would seem to have been placed there to compel tribute of all that passed by. At a little distance it appears like a bastion having a principal tower in the midst, and at the angles several small ones. Above Bacharach on the left bank is the ruin of Stahlech. This castle was besieged in the Thirty Years’ War, and taken eight times from 1620 to 1640, and at last destroyed. The Elector Charles Louis rebuilt it in 1666, but soon after in the war of Orleans it was ravaged again. On approaching the mouth of the Nahe river is a little island in the midst of the Rhine opposite to Ehrenfels, with a ruined tower upon it, well-known by the name of Mausethurm, or the Tower of Mice. A ridiculous legend relates that Hatto II., Archbishop of Mayence, was devoured there alive by mice. Before we arrived at this Mice Tower we passed the castle of Rheinstein on the left bank as you descend the river; which is the course in relation to which the banks are named "right and left." Rheinstein is a modern chateau with Gothic towers, recently built by Frederick Prince of Prussia. Above Mausethurm the Nahe river presents itself, crossed by a bridge which establishes a connection between the Rhenish province of Prussia and the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darmstadt. In the corner formed by the two rivers is situated the little town of Bingen, with 5000 inhabitants, opposite to Rudesheim, formerly fortified, and now celebrated for its excellent wine. On the right the steep mount of Rudesheim rises to the clouds, and there, where the river turns the mountain, the old castle of Ehrenfels appears projecting from the rocks. On the other side of Bingen is the Bingerloch, where the Rhine breaks upon a wall of rocks now rent asunder. It is said, and no doubt truly, from what is seen below, that the lover of the grand and picturesque will experience great delight if, conducted by a guide, he ascends the mountain called Niederwald, near to Rudesheim. On the way that winds across a forest, you arrive at first at a little round temple from which is obtained "a ravishing view upon the Rhine." In front is Bingen. The view from the temple resembles that from the height of Klopp, near Bingen; but that of Rossel is unique. Like the nest of a bird of prey, the ruins of the castle of Ehrenfels are set upon the rocks. At Rudesheim there are always to be found vehicles and donkeys for a convenient ascent to the summit of Niederwald. The forester who resides near the chateau has for several years past established a good restaurant, where all sorts of refreshments may be obtained—a very important consideration for all who in the flesh would ascend so high towards heaven.

Next above Rudesheim is Gersenheim, and then Lange Winkel, from whence the ascent of Johannisberg is commenced. The Johannisberg is very celebrated for the good wine and beautiful chateau of Prince Metternich, one of the most unpopular men in the world, because in high repute with the dynastic conspirators against the liberty and enlightenment of mankind. The magnificent castle of Johannisberg became his property in 1816. From Winkel to Bieberich there are about half a dozen towns and villages, all prettily situated on the right bank. This district along the Rhine, of which Eltville was the capital, is known as the Rheingau. From Rudesheim to Castel a little beyond Bieberich there are about twenty islands, which produce a picturesque effect. Everywhere from Bonn to Castel the cultivation of the vine seems to be the favourite pursuit. Opposite to Bingen the sides of the mountain are terraced with rock to increase its surface and to prevent the washing away of the soil. On these mountain terraces the vine is planted from base to summit. Great labour must have been expended upon these works. They are solid, and no doubt a source of great profit to the growers of Rhenish wines. I could not but think, on viewing the natural sterility of the rocks, that German agriculturalists grow rich where Americans would starve.

Bieberich is the summer residence of the Duke of Nassau. Fronting upon the Rhine is a fine chateau in a beautiful garden, the property of the Duke. Bieberich is a market town, and contains 3,100 inhabitants. At this landing those of our fellow-voyagers bound for Wiesbaden, three and a half miles distant, (the capital of the duchy, highly renowned and very much frequented as a watering-place,) left us to take the rail which connects here by a short track with the Castel and Wiesbaden road. We proceeded about three miles farther up the river to Castel, a strongly-fortified town at the embouchure of the Mayne, and opposite to Mainz, with which it is connected by a bridge of boats 1666 feet long. Here we left the steamer before dark, after a very pleasant and interesting trip of ninety-seven miles from Bonn to Castel. At Castel we ticketed ourselves for "The Free City of Frankfurt," situated towards the centre of Germany, on the Mayne, about eighteen miles from its junction with the Rhine, surrounded by Hessian territories, and bordering on the duchy of Nassau. Arrived in this city, we followed the road from the station, not knowing exactly whither. We found ourselves at length in the Platz, in the vicinity of the Prussian guns, ready loaded for any emergency in these troublous times. Hard-by we found the Hotel de Paris and excellent quarters. I never ate a mutton-chop with mealy potatoes, overlaid with French bread, and the sweetest fresh butter and aromatic coffee, with such a relish before. This was our supper, prepared as French cooks only know how. In a reasonable time we retired to bed, where, in the heart of Germany, I wish the reader good-night "till we meet again."