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SOUTH-WESTERN TOUR.

CHAPTER 2.

On arriving in Henderson county, Kentucky, I found myself among my old friends, the "Reformers," known commonly by the name of "Campbellites;" and sometimes by those of "Reformed Baptists," and "Disciples." But, though agreeing in the main with the opinions of Mr. Alexander Campbell, of Bethany, Virginia, who in 1838 assumed the Eye-and-Mouthship—Daniel 7: 8—of the denomination, under the title of "Supervisor of this Reformation," they have by no means (as far as my experience went) imbibed his proscriptive and dogmatic spirit. I found them kind, liberal, ready to hear, and disposed to learn; that is, very much in that spirit of religious enterprise which characterised "reformers" in 1832, when the mottoes in which they delighted were, "Call no man ‘Master’ but Christ," and "Prove all things, and hold fast that which is good."

During my sojourn in the county, my time was occupied in addressing large promiscuous congregations, and in talking replies to innumerable questions from house to house, concerning the things of the kingdom of God. The discourses in the country reacted upon the county seat, also named Henderson, and containing a population of some 2000 people. From some of these I received a note inviting me to address their fellow-citizens in the Court-House. To this I consented, although I have a strong repugnance to casting the pearls of the kingdom before the class that usually assembles at the Court-Houses of the land. They are generally built with little regard to convenience; and located near the village tavern, where, on court-days especially, the rowdyism of the town and country holds its turbulent and vulgar orgies. Court-House meetings have generally an inconvenient amount of this rude and disorderly element of society, ill-mannered boys and uncivilised men—barbarous elements of "the sovereign people," who for the most part, from their known impropriety of conduct, effectually deter the ladies from doing themselves the honour of opening their ears to the words of truth by attending their proclamation there. On the two evenings, however, of my appointment at Henderson Court-house, the people behaved themselves in a very orderly manner. The first night was very stormy and wet; but the second was fine, and the audience on my part unexpectedly good and respectable. The things brought to their ears in that region for the first time were exceedingly novel, though as old as Moses and the prophets. They could not deny their existence as testimonies, for there they were in those writings in words plainly to be seen. What their conclusions will be I know not; but this I know, that if Christ have any sheep among them, they will respond to the voice of truth, and become obedient for the Kingdom. Besides bearing testimony for this, and vindicating its distinctiveness from all the traditions of the age, a goodly number of Anatolias and some Elpis Israels were disposed of to such as wished to examine at leisure into the evidence of what they had heard. During my sojourn in the county, I spoke to the public for about eighteen hours, which I cannot persuade myself will be time and labour thrown away. A spirit of inquiry into Moses and the Prophets was certainly kindled into activity. The things they heard created more searching of the Scriptures, and will continue so to do, I trust, than there has been in those parts since Kentucky was a State. This is the foundation of my hope of the enlightenment of the Hendersonians. "The Scriptures are able to make them wise," and to lead them into all the truth. They are God’s teaching; and he that comes to Jesus in a scriptural sense is "taught of God." People "err, not knowing the Scriptures." Ignorance of the true meaning of these is the cause of all the errors of "Christendom." Let those, then, who desire to be delivered from the foolishness of men, become intelligent in the word which unfolds the purpose and promises of the Most High. There appears to be a fine field in Kentucky for sowing the prophetic and apostolic word. At present the public mind there is overspread with darkness, the gospel being known by very few. From what I heard, I judge that the general run of Campbellite preachers are nowhere held in less repute than among "Reformers" themselves. To them may be attributed the expiring condition of "this reformation" in the Hendersonian region. To crowd numbers into the water constitutes the "doing good" to which their fervid efforts have been directed for many years. The consequence has been such as might have been expected; to wit, the distension of the body with much gas. The inflation soared among the heavenlies for a time, but soon lost its buoyancy. No balloon generates its own gas. Excitement, not instruction, was the specific quality of the proselytes; so that when the stimulus was withdrawn, and they had to fall back upon their own resources, it was discovered that the root of the matter was not in them; and so, evaporating into their original nothingness, the body collapsed, its crowd retreating into "the world," from whose corruptions, through lust, they have never escaped. The consequence is, that "this reformation" is more bulky in name than in fact in the region visited. Well, then, let the past be past and forgotten by those honest reformers that remain. Their experience must have taught them that Campbellism is a failure in theory and practice. Let them be reformers in deed, and go on to the perfection marked out in the Scriptures of the old and new writings. Believe the glad tidings of the kingdom in the name of Jesus as Jehovah’s representative on His throne hereafter to be restored in Jerusalem—Jeremiah 3: 17—with Abrahamic disposition of mind—Romans 4: 3, 13, 18-22; and, thus indoctrinated and renewed, be immersed into the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. This will be a real reform and return to first principles—an embracing of the "Ancient Gospel" in deed and truth. Thus emancipated from the foolishness of men, "watch!" for the Judge standeth at the door. Live in readiness, for the time is short. The sign in the Gentile heavenlies demonstrates that their times are almost fulfilled, and that redemption is at hand.

Having finished my work in Henderson, it was my intention to have returned to this city by the way I came; but remembering that I had some particular friends in Dubuque, Iowa, and supposing it to be much nearer to St. Louis than it proved, I concluded to return by that city and Chicago home. I left Henderson by steamer for St. Louis on June 26th, a distance of 412 miles, fare seven dollars. This charge is an example of the sort of imposition practised upon travellers. The fare from Louisville, Kentucky which is 200 miles above Henderson, to St. Louis, is eight dollars; for these 200 miles they charge you four dollars, being 112 miles less than half the distance. But when you reenter on another day, instead of charging you only four dollars, they demand seven, which made the cost of my voyage from Louisville to St. Louis eleven dollars. The steamer carried the mails and but little freight; our delays were therefore caused by delivering the mails, landing passengers, and taking in fuel. With these hindrances we arrived at St. Louis on Thursday morning, being about eight knots and a half an hour, 200 miles of the distance being against the current of the Mississippi.

The heat of the weather was excessive, especially when the steamer became stationary at the wharves; and my state-room being over the boiler, the temperature was to me insufferably high. But for the current of air produced by the motion of the boat, it would have been suffocating. Our course, however, up the Mississippi being north-west, one’s endurance was strengthened by the consideration that there were cooler regions ahead, and that every twenty-four hours brought us nearer to them. What comfort we derive from imagination! We imagine a good to be at hand, and the illusion of its speedy possession imparts to us contentment, firmness, and power. So it operated upon me. No one could tell me the distance of Dubuque from St. Louis, but I flattered myself that it was not very far, and that I should find a packet ready to start as soon as the Louisville boat arrived! But this was mere illusion; I found that Dubuque was 477 miles from St. Louis, and that "the packet" did not start till 4 P.M. on Friday. Had I possessed experience of Upper Mississippi steamers, and been aware of the railroad facilities, I should have saved time by going far around to Chicago, and thence to Dubuque; but I entered myself a passenger on board the Admiral before I discovered the chicanery of the port; and so became booked for a great trial of patience and constitution.

I entered at 8 A.M. on Thursday morning, paying nine dollars for board and passage from that time till leaving the boat. They knew they would not start at the time advertised; but they will say any thing to secure a passenger—that is, his money; for after that is paid, they care nothing for his comfort or convenience. After entering, I found that the boat had got a hole in her bows, and must be "docked" before they could load; and that she could not possibly leave port till 5 P.M. on Saturday. Here, then, instead of getting into a cooler region, I was doomed to stew in perspiration for fifty-seven hours on board of a steamboat jammed in by others at the landing, under a blazing sun reflected from the paved levee, clouds of dust, and at a place where the people were dying two hundred a day of cholera. This was a period of exhausting inactivity. The drain of moisture from the system was enfeebling. Mental lassitude, loss of appetite, and sleeplessness, to some extent, resulted from the heat. The natives were all complaining that it was the hottest weather they had ever endured; it is not to be wondered at, therefore, that I, from a more temperate latitude, should find it so severe.

During this trial of patience, I had scope enough for studying the system of delivering, and receiving freight, and loading steamers. I do not know that the information I acquired will be of any use, unless to exclude the thought of ever turning drayman, wharf-hand, or stevedore. How the creatures were enabled to endure the labour was marvellous to an exotic who felt competent to little more than maintaining the perpendicular in the shade. The truth is, they could not hold out; for though urged on by their overseers and fifty cents an hour, there were hours in the middle of the day they could not be induced to work. Our freight was heavy, consisting of hogsheads of sugar, stoves, iron safes, whiskey, corn, &c., for the Minnesota Territory and intermediate points. These required great labour to ship, having to be borne up an inclined plane by the leverage of muscle alone.

Our table fare during these fifty-seven hours was of the huskiest description. Frogs were the only episode to dry yellow corn bread, sad rolls, decoction of chicory, and tough meat. This was the first time I had tasted frogs, and could I have forgotten that they were frogs, I should have eaten them with great goût. But I could not entirely deliver my imagination from the croaking mud-reptile itself, the sight of which is not at all enticing to a weak stomach. But, imagination aside, frog is really delicious, being much more relishing than the tenderest chicken. I do not wonder that the French are so fond of them, seeing that they were themselves originally denizens of the frog-ponds of Westphalia. Men become not only familiar, but partial to their associates, and mimics of their peculiarities. The leaping agilities of the frogs, it is supposable, so strongly impressed the French people, as to turn them into a nation of leapers, whose leaps, when timed and set to music, constitute dancing. The dance-music of the frogs is in their throats; Monsieur Crapaud’s is in his fiddle. *(Le crapaud designe les marais dont sortir les Francs. —The frog designates the marshes whence the French originated. —Gebelin.) Frogs and Frenchmen have been Anglice alliterative companions for ages; so much so that frog is equivalent with Frenchman in the sobriquets applied to nations. Thus, if the Ohioans are Buckeyes, the Michigans Wolverines, and the British, unicorns and lions, the French are toads and frogs. In England the nickname typifies the French with the common people, under the supposition that they acquired it because of their frog-eating propensity. This, however, is a mistake. The people have traditionally retained the type but forgotten its origin. Frogs became representative of Frenchmen, (and perhaps of Prussians, the modern denizens of Westphalia,) for the reason given by M. Court de Gebelin in his "Primitive compared with the Modern World," and quoted above. * They are the tenant reptiles typical of the marshy country originally occupied by "the bands of Gomer," which include the French; therefore they came to represent themselves by the frogs; and although they afterwards dropped these and retained the lily, an aquatic plant, tradition perpetuated the symbol in its true import to the present time.

While moored to the levee, I visited a bookseller in behalf of Anatolia, not as its author, but as an amateur who supposed he might like some to sell if he were aware of its existence. I was attracted to a store on the principal street by a placard of one of Dr. Cumming’s works on prophecy, supposing that an interest might exist there in the subjects treated of in Anatolia. But appearances were deceptive. The dealer in books said that the people of St. Louis were not a reading people, and that though he believed in the Bible, which he admitted he did not know much about, he did not believe that it told any thing about the future. As for Russia being triumphant, he had no idea of such a thing; and that nobody in St. Louis expected such a result but the Catholics, who wished it. England and France were too powerful for Russia, for whom Turkey single-handed was enough. Now what was to be done with such a logical and oracular bookseller as this? Literally nothing in the interest of Anatolia! "Well," said I, "these are the opinions current in your city, whose inhabitants you say are not a reading people. What else could be expected of a people who do not read, and do not know much about what the Bible contains? But is it not a disgrace and a reproach to the clergy of St. Louis, that they have had the ear of the people from its foundation, and that they have created in them no taste for reading and the Word of God? Now the author of Anatolia has studied the Bible diligently upwards of twenty years. During that time he has written much concerning the future which is now the present, and what he showed from the Bible would come to pass, is now transpiring in this Eastern Question, which will become a Western Question before it arrives at its solution in the East. This is modern proof, to say nothing of ancient, that the Bible does reveal the future of nations, and that it can be known before it comes to pass. The clergy, like their flocks, know nothing about the matter; save, indeed, a few exceptional cases, in which they have to some extent abandoned their theology for Moses and the Prophets. The current dialect of the people is evidence of clerical apathy and unfaithfulness. Their conversation is sensual and profane, and the making of money to spend upon their lusts, the idol of all their hearts. It is the duty of those who perceive this demoralisation to endeavour to counteract it. This is the tendency of such works as Anatolia, which supply what the ‘spiritual advisers’ of the people cannot furnish them with for ‘love of their precious souls,’ money, nor life. Booksellers should not only be able to supply books inquired after, but to create a demand for books unknown. I called to let you know of the existence of this book, and where you might obtain it, and upon what terms." But I could make no impression upon him. He might order some if he heard of their selling at the North, but he was not disposed to take any trouble to introduce them until sought after from other influences than his own. Thus ended my amateur agency for the author in St. Louis, Missouri, an entrepot of Romanism for the Mississippi Valley. Who can wonder at Protestants turning Papists, or embracing any other semi-pagan absurdity of the Gentiles? A people who do not read, and who neglect the study of Moses and the Prophets, are the sport of every wind that blows, and liable to be ensnared by the cunning craftiness of men, whereby they lie in wait to deceive at any time. There were other booksellers in St. Louis; but apprehending that this was a pretty fair sample of "the trade," I did not care to trouble myself in such hot weather with their obtuseness any more. So I pocketed Anatolia, and made a clearance for the boat.

The honesty of St. Louis does not appear to shine more brightly than its scriptural intelligence. I heard that it was the greatest place for thieves on the Mississippi. If I had received a hint of this a few hours earlier, it might have saved me some loss; but I was not warned to watch the stable until the steed was stolen. I used to sit on the hurricane-deck till near midnight to cool off before I turned in to my berth. But it was out of the question to sleep there with closed doors, so, not apprehending any intrusion, I placed them wide open, and hung my cat and vest inside out upon a hook behind that opening into the cabin, with my watch so concealed in their folds that only a small part of a black silk guard might be seen over the hook. I laid down in the rest of my clothes, with the conviction that the least noise would wake me, owing to the discomfort of the place. But in this I was deceived. I slept several hours, and on waking arose to see the time, but found no watch. A thief had visited me in the night, attracted, I suppose, by the ticking of the watch, which he appropriated to his own use. It was gone, and, I soon found, with no chance of recovery. On reporting my loss to the clerk of the boat, he informed me for my consolation that I was not the only one that had been robbed in the night. That the gentleman on my right had lost thirty dollars that were stolen from his pantaloons, under which were also two gold watches, which escaped, he supposed, in consequence of the thief being disturbed in his operations. I suspect some of the blacks on board were the thieves, but inquiry would elicit nothing, as they were sure to deny it, and we had no proof.

At 5 P.M. on Saturday our "packet" slipped her cable and put out into the channel of the muddy stream. We flattered ourselves that we were now fairly under weigh, and the thermometer of our depressed spirits began to rise. But our tardy skipper soon hove-to again, to lash on a lighter he was going to tow up to Galena. Our "packet"—a swift passenger craft—had become a tow-boat heavily laden with freight. My hope of a speedy voyage to Dubuque was gone, and the certainty of a nearly five days’ journey before me. We crept along at about four knots an hour. The current for twenty miles, being below the mouth of the Missouri, was very strong; but above that about three miles an hour. This five days’ ascent of the Mississippi was very tedious and monotonous, especially to those impatient of detentions in which they had no interest. The river from the mouth of the Ohio to Dubuque, about 700 miles, is a wide waste of waters, with thousands of low, flat, uninhabited islands. Sometimes you approach the bluffs, which afford a little variety and interest to the traveller; but generally speaking, the navigation is among the flats and island swamps. There are some flourishing towns making their appearance on the banks, showing the industry and enterprise of the white man. The Illinois shore of the river is low and marshy, and exceedingly uninviting. The Missouri, though generally higher, is wild and unimprovable. The Iowa coast seems to present the best aspect, and showed improvements in more localities than either of the others.

On arriving at Keokuk our progress was arrested by the Lower or Des Moines Rapids. Here we had to discharge our freight into lighters, each of which had to be towed by eight horses a distance of twelve miles. Being sufficiently lightened, we cautiously ascended the stream, rubbing the rocks only once. Having cleared them, we came to moorings for the night, which was occupied in transferring the freight from the hired lighter into the hold of the steamer. This labour was completed by daylight, and we again got under weigh, with the consolation that there would be no more lightering to cause delay.

Soon after leaving this place we passed Nauvoo, the former capital of Joe Smith’s Mormon kingdom. The site is commanding, on the Illinois side of the river. The "temple" is quite conspicuous, architecturally commonplace, and notable only as a monument of impiety and folly. The place, I believe, is now in the hands of the French Icarians, who are experimenting in the vagaries of Socialism. The land as seen from the river is stripped of its timber, gulleyed, and exhausted, and may be said to have spued out its inhabitants, disgusted at their agriculture and improvidence.

In process of time we arrived at Rock Island and Devonport, two towns opposite to one another, at the foot of the Upper Rapids. This is one of the most beautiful regions of the Mississippi. A railroad from Chicago terminates here, while another to Council Bluffs will run from Devonport on the Iowa side. We took many Germano-Swiss emigrants and their "plunder" on board here for Dubuque and Minnesota. What sturdy women! what incarnate ugliness! How little elevated they appeared above the cattle! Yet in a short time they will be incorporated with "the sovereign people," and flattered by stump orators into the illusion that they are the most enlightened people under the sun, for the sake of their votes! From such a popular sovereignty may the world soon be delivered by the heaven-born majesty of the Kingdom of God!

We passed over the rapids without snagging our bows upon the rocks, as some had done before us. Soon after clearing them we hove-to for freight at an insignificant-looking place. Here we were detained several hours taking in corn, sheep, and horses, for St. Paul, not the apostle, but a city in Minnesota. Here a man passing behind a cow was kicked at, and starting back to avoid the blow, fell overboard. The current swept him along, but a boat put off from the shore, and intercepting him, brought him in with the loss of his hat. Another, bathing in slack water, got into the current and was floating off, but was fortunately seized while passing by the guard towards the wheel, and dragged in. These two incidents, which happened at night, caused great merriment to the crowd, which was excited to laughter by the buffoonery of a Negro deck-hand. With a feigned voice he called out to the terror-stricken men in the flood to "hold up their heads if they died hard!" This Merry Andrew would have done well for a King’s fool. He wore an old felt chapeau, once white, which he had fashioned into a sort of cocked-hat, and covered with ribbons and bits of paper, which he styled his "fourth of July." Under this fool’s cap he played the fool from St. Louis to Galena. His fellows all liked him, and seemed encouraged in their work by his folly. He took it into his head to fire fourth of July salutes on the fifth, when we were nearing Galena. He loaded "Charley," as they called the gun, driving in the rammer with an axe. The thrice-repeated explosions were tremendous concussions upon the tympanum of the Galena authorities, who had forbidden such demonstrations from boats approaching their domains. Motley’s love for thunder, fire and brimstone, caused him the loss of his situation, which was worth forty dollars a month, the common wages of deck-hands on the Mississippi, in the busy season of the year. The officers of the boat were called to account for endangering the necks of equestrians and charioteers by the startling noise. They made the best apology they could, and satisfied Galena justice by the discharge of the offender.

After lying-to at Galena some fourteen hours, the greater part of our time doing nothing, we commenced our nine miles’ descent of Fever River, at 4 A.M. But I remember the citizens of that place do not like their river to be called "Fever," however richly its low mud banks with their rank vegetation show that the name is appropriate. They prefer to have it called the Galena River. Well, we gladly emerged from this creek into the broad waters of the Mississippi again, and turned our head finally towards Dubuque, which is about twenty-four miles from Galena. We arrived opposite the city about 10 A.M., but before we could get at the levee we had to pass between some island flats, where in the attempt we stuck in the mud. After some time we ploughed our way through, and at last made fast at the landing, rejoiced at the opportunity of finally escaping from the demoralised and demoralising society of a Mississippi steamboat.

Dubuque is a flourishing and enterprising city of about 12,000 inhabitants, with all the et ceteras pertaining to a western settlement of people from divers countries under heaven. Building is going on with considerable activity. The houses and stores going up are of a superior class, and the work upon them neatly and substantially executed. Behind the town the bluffs are of a towering height; nevertheless, the industry and perseverance of the place are cutting them down, and making roads up them to the fine prairie region above. But to lead Dubuque speedily on to its "manifest destiny," its municipality must Bostonise the flats before it; that is, dam out the Mississippi and pitch the bluff-rocks into the bottom. All those flats and channels should be covered with streets and stores, and the wharves of Dubuque should bound the islands. Of course this would affect the interests of the holders of existing wharves, who would do their utmost to prevent the improvement. But their opposition ought not to be allowed to weigh against the health and general prosperity of the city. Dubuque must have a better landing, or visitors will give it a bad name, which in trade and commerce is equivalent to a death-warrant against a dog.

Dubuque is at present interesting as an arena upon which Popery has been insidiously seeking to gain the ascendancy. Till recently, Protestantism has been too much in awe of it to maintain the position which is its due in a republic originally founded upon the political equality and civil and religious freedom of all mankind. This in theory is the foundation corner-stone of the "TEMPLE OF LIBERTY," yclept "The Republic of the United States of North America." This republic as originally constituted is neither Popish nor Protestant, but the political embodiment of liberty for all white men. This being the fact, the Constitution is a great national protest against all liberty-hating institutions upon earth. It is therefore a political protestation against Popery and its Harlot-Progeny; for Popery and its priests hate liberty of thought, speech, and action, in all their forms. Protestants in Dubuque, instead of boldly facing the Serpent, thought to charm it into innocuousness by craven meekness in its presence, under the absurd supposition that "Popery had changed!" They ventured to say nothing against it above a whisper, lest their Popish maid-servants should report it to their father confessors, and a mark should be set against them whereby they should suffer in their temporalities! The press, such as it was, was at the beck of the Pope’s lackeys, and no dog wagged his tail against the will of Rome! Dubuque was fast sinking into the degradation of an Italian city, where liberty is dead and buried, and men rot in jail for reading the Bible, and being suspected of free thoughts.

But happily for that otherwise prosperous place, a press has been recently established there, whose proprietors and conductors do not fear to grip the serpent and extract its fangs. The Dubuque Observer has reminded the people of what Washington said about "foreign influence;" that is, the influence of foreign potentates, temporal and spiritual, who in the nature of things hate republics, and all free civil and religious institutions, and whose principle of self-preservation it is, to compass sea and land by their emissaries for their destruction. This proved the tocsin of alarm. The Popish priests were known to make more frequent visits than usual to the editors at command, and very soon their instruments raised a hue and cry against The Observer, charging it with gratifying its malignity against the Irish in the name of Washington. Of course every one not a natural fool could see through this at a glance, and all not knaves did practically acknowledge their perception of the craft in giving The Observer their support. Thus the war for the anti-Papal liberty and independence of Dubuque commenced, and I am happy to be able to testify that the priests and their sycophants of the press have been well thrashed and exposed, and that the crest-fallen Protestants are recovering heart, and, I trust, will yet teach priests and Popery to hang their varlet heads before civilisation, liberty, and truth.

Finding that I should be detained in Chicago on Sunday if I left Dubuque on Saturday, I concluded to remain in Iowa until Monday. Friday and Saturday I spent in surveying the country in and around the city, and on Saturday evening accompanied a friend some ten miles up the river, in the new steam ferry-boat, A.L. Gregoire. It was an excursion to glorify the proprietor of the boat for his great public spirit (not forgetting his own pecuniary advantage) in setting it to run from the railway terminus at Dunleith to Dubuque, which hopes to be the eastern terminus of a road into the far, far West, as it is now the great highway to the Rocky Mountains and the world beyond. This ferry-boat excursion, without music, unless the scraping of an old fiddle among the dancing high-life-below-stairs people could be called such, was a tedious affair to a traveller just escaped from eight days’ domicile on board a Mississippi freight-boat. A little amusement was got up on putting about ship, in the way of speech-making. Some enthusiastic gentlemen from the four winds made great balloon orations upon ants’ eyes. Of course there were no such people as the ants, and their eyes beamed with an intelligence that no ants in the East could look upon and live. Two of these ants stood up under cover of the darkness and told the intelligent ants that the East was nothing in comparison of them. This made certain red flannel waistcoats among the intelligent ants screech out as ant-throats never screamed out before. This was to prove how well deserved they considered the compliment, and what a discerning ant they took the speaker to be! Emboldened by the encomia and felicitations he had heard, a western ant of rotund and beef-eating appearance rose upon his hind legs, and spreading his wings, (for the intelligent ants have great wings,) soared off among the stars; and when he found leisure to return to the A. L. Gregoire, he startled us from our gravity by prophesying that tall-masted vessels from the ocean would ere long discharge their foreign cargoes at Dubuque!!! He did not enter into particulars, or he might have treated us to an explanation of the how vessels drawing fifteen or twenty feet would get over the rapids, to say nothing of sandbars and shoals innumerable; and what advantage would be obtained over steam by transportation of merchandise up stream in sailing-vessels! This was a member of the Dubuque bar, of harmonious tendencies, being peculiarly fond of nightingales. The speeches were indeed very funny, and the intelligent vivas of the red flannels very high in the gamut. The effect upon myself was very depressing. Was it possible to interest such a people in the great things of the Bible? Was not Popery better suited to them than Christianity? What an earthly and sensual creature is man untaught of God! While philosophising thus upon the scene around me, I heard the name I bear called out in divers parts of the crowd. Being a stranger, I did not imagine that I was intended. But as it began to be pressingly repeated, and no one answered to it, I feared it might be a call for me to follow up the profound observations of the last speaker. Horrified at such a catastrophe, and having no enthusiasm to expend upon the Dubuque ferry-boat, and the divine intelligence of the sovereign imperials of a semi-Papal community, I retreated from the crowd to a more retired position. I learned after that the call was meant for me, but happily in vain.

On Sunday morning I accompanied a friend to "the Stone Church." The congregation that meets here holds the opinions of A. Campbell, of Bethany, Virginia. They were expecting a preacher from Palmyra, Mo., but he had not arrived. Mr. Mobley, to whom I had been introduced a day or two before, seeing me there, arose and stated the fact, and very politely invited me to address them. I accepted the invitation, and spoke to a very attentive audience on the purpose of God in the formation of the world. This of course introduced the gospel preached to Abraham, to whom it was announced that in Messiah’s day the world should be his and his seed’s, and that all the nations of that world should be blessed in them both. Having finished, and taken my seat among the people, Mr.Mobley informed the congregation that "to that hour their preacher had not arrived, but that they were expecting him every minute. It was hoped he would be in Dubuque before night, but that if he did not come, they would do as well as they could." There was no meeting in the afternoon. One of the members called to see my friend, and stated that many of his brethren were dissatisfied with what they had seen and heard in the morning. They thought that the trouble I had taken to address them was at least worthy of thanks, and said they wished an appointment had been made for me in the afternoon. As for night, they could have heard the preacher expected during the week. They wanted to hear more of the things I had introduced to their notice, and were sure that if I would stay till next Sunday, and speak in the interval, Globe Hall could be filled every night. I was introduced to this member, who proposed the same thing to me. But I could not comply, from various reasons; first, this was July 6th, and I wished to be in Rochester by the 13th; and, secondly, I did not wish to seem to get up meetings in a spirit of opposition to those about to be held where I had first spoken. If a course of lectures were really desired by many of the Stone Church members and citizens of Dubuque, they could raise the funds, hire the Hall, and be prepared to pay my expenses to and fro at least, (remembering also that I cannot support a family out of bare travelling expenses,) and when they informed me of their readiness, and I found it possible to comply with their request, I would come. In the meantime I suggest that the people proceed diligently in the reading of the Scriptures, and avail themselves of the information they may obtain from Elpis Israel and Anatolia, so that when I come they will be the better able to understand what I discourse about. In the evening I went to see them "do as well as they could." The preacher had arrived, and they were delivered from the trial. We took our seat in the crowd, but before the commencement Mr. Mobley came and very politely invited me to take a place among the upper seats of the synagogue. But this I respectfully declined, not wishing to be identified with the preacher before I knew what sort of doctrine he was going to preach. The sermon was a stereotyped edition of a John Taffe’s discourse on Positive Institutions, published some years ago in the Campbellite papers. The reasoning was good, the delivery too much mixed up with levity and feminine illustrations, and the tendency of it to get people into the water with but little regard to the "One Faith." The discourse, however, would do good, if it can only rationalise the people on the subject of Positive Institutions.

On Monday morning I left in the stage for Warren, where I took the cars for Chicago at 8 P.M. We arrived at this city about 6 A.M., and soon after started for Detroit. From this we crossed the St. Clair River for Windsor, Canada West, where we entered the cars for Niagara Falls via London, Paris, and Hamilton. Crossing the Suspension Bridge, we transferred ourselves to the New York train by Elmira to Jersey City, where we arrived at 11 P.M. By 12.30 I reached Sixty-first Street, and as there was no conveyance thence at that hour, I walked to Mott Haven, where I arrived at 2 P.M., after an absence of six weeks, and a tour of some 3500 miles. In the morning I found a large mail awaiting me at the office, and containing orders for 300 Anatolias. These I despatched with all expedition, and on the 13th at 4 P.M. took my seat for Rochester, where I arrived at 7 A.M. on the following day, distant 400 miles from New York city.

EDITOR.

August 15, 1854.

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