Installation: This is pretty simple, but can get on your nerves. There's really only 5 bolts to remove if your lucky, otherwise 6 to make it easier. The tough thing is that the engine and catalytic converter need to be cooled off since you'll be laying right under them with your goodies right at the location of the cat. -and since the cat has ceramic in it, it'll take many hours for it to cool off if you've been driving that day. I waited until I had a day off from work and did it before going anywhere. I got out the ramps, rolled the car back, and only started it to get up the ramps. Space is limited since you reach around the exhaust to access all bolts, and they're all 10 and 12mm size-you'll need 2 socket wrenches to get the job done, with a 10+12mm socket for each.

-remove the shift knob by pushing down on the chrome trim ring at its base, then by just unscrewing it form the lever

-first, remove the bolt at the pivot, then swing the shift rod off toward the pass. side and let it rest on the ground (if using ramps). Next are the 2 bolts that hold the end of the shift stabilizer bar, and to make the job really easy go ahead and remove the bolt at the other end of that bar, all thw way up at the tranny. That way you just pull the whole assembly from under the car and you can switch the levers somwhere else.

-the 2 bolts that hold the lever in place are dumb. they have a bolt, but no real head on the other side to grip on to... after you get these off you should replace them with regular bolts-I should've, but couldn't get to the hardware store with the car on ramps, and not knowing the size of the bolts beforehand-oh well.

-the rest is just reversal of the process...

Impressions: It took a couple of days to get used to the slightly lower knob height in the car, and it was notchy shifting for the first few weeks. Now, about 2 months afterward, it feels as smooth as the factory shifter, and I am so used to the throw that I couldn't imagine what the stock set-up feels like! Downshifting to 2nd when slowing can be stiff at times, but that's just due to the loss of some mechanical advantage from the shorter lever height-no biggie. Otherwise an excellent value-sometime down the road I may install the Energy Suspension rod bushings for the stabilizer bar to further tighten things up...

This first picture shows the difference between the factory and DC levers. I positioned them so the pivot ball was at the same spot-the height of the lever from inside the car is shorter, and at the same time the distance from the pivot to the shift rod has increased-these decrease the mechanical advantage, but greatly shorten the throw.

The second shot shows the lever inside the car after installation-after all is put back in place it is tough to spot the different shifter since it is lower, but not too dramatic. I stuck with the stock knob for now, but if I find a better one that feels good to me then I'll get it.