ANCHOR WORM
What is it?
Anchor worm is not a true worm, and is a rather strange parasite. It is actually a crustacean! Sadly though, this makes them a bit harder to get rid of. Its clinical name is Lernaea, and this tiny pest can cause must damage and distress to a fish. With a lifecycle similar to other parasites, the free swimming young attach to fish where they then burrow deep within the tissues of the skin or gills. They then travel deeper within the tissues, reaching the muscle where they then develop for a number of months. During this time it may be very difficult to tell if a fish is infected or not.
If the burrow too deep they can reach internal organs and cause much damage, even death. This is not all that common though.After a few months they release eggs, come out an die. The holes the Lernaea burrowed in may then become infected and can leave scarring.
Fortunately these pests are not common in aquarium fish, and are usually found only in ponds and fish kept outdoors. Occasionally a aquarium fish will become infected when they are fed live foods that may carry the parasite. It is contagious.
This is a very serious disease, as large infestations often cause weight loss and eventual death.
Symptoms:
The first sign is often the worms themselves, trailing about 2-5mm long. The worms vary in colour from brown to red to green, usually light in colour. They are quite thin, similar to a string of cotton. The female parasites will have two light coloured egg sacks. These eggs sacks are usually long and tube-like.The base of the worms (at the skin of the fish) will be red and sometimes infected. Nasty sores may develop. The worms will be protruding from the wound sites, and are not always obvious.
Behaviorally, the fish will scrape itself against aquarium objects (such as rocks) in an effort to remove the parasites.
The fish may also seems distressed, lethargic and off colour.
Cure:
There are so many cures suggested for Anchor Worm. Over the counter treatments have been developed, with some success. Alternatively, you may treat the aquarium with 2mg/litre potassium permanganate, this approach has had much success. After treatment has ceased, I recommend feeding the fish antibiotic food, available from many aquarium shops. If this is not available, use a mild anti-biotic additive to the water, available again from aquarium shops. The anti-biotic will ensure no secondary infection occurs, as this is often the cause of death.It has been suggested to remove the worms yourself. Using anti-parasitic medication, dab the worms first with a cotton swab to kill them. Then, gently remove with tweezers. After the worms have been removed, use an antibiotic designed for fish and dab the wounds sites with it. This will prevent a secondary infection. Although it has had varied success, this approach is not the best idea as the worms are often burrowed so deeply that physical removal may harm the fish.
Adding small amounts of aquarium salt also helps.
Remember, water quality is always extremely important- so always check that first as it is often the cause of disease in aquarium fish. When treating sick fish, try to put the least amount of stress on them as possible, as stress will hinder the heeling process. Another thing is to remember is that generally, a healthy fish is a happy fish.Copyright "The Sick Fish Webpage" © 2002 - 2003 Terms and Conditions