How to grow Marijauna
MARIJUANA
Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The
fibrous section of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used
to make rope. The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant
is used by just about everyone to get HIGH. Normally, the vegetable parts
of the plant are smoked to produce this "high," but they can also be eaten.
The active ingredient in marijuana resin is THC (Tetahydrocannabinol).
Marijuana contains from 1%-4% THC (4% must be considered GOOD dope). Marijuana
grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in Mexico, Vietnam,
Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc. The marijuana sold in the United
States comes primarily from, yes, the United States. It is estimated that
at least 50% of the grass on the streets in America is homegrown. The next
largest bunch comes across the borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts
filtering in from Panama, occasionally South America, and occasionally,
Africa. Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped
from the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the
ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any
sort of marijuana in Jamaica.) Marijuana will deteriorate in about two
years if exposed to light, air or heat. It should always be stored in cool
places. Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the
laws of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics would
never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing season,
a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana up. Demand
still seems to be on the increase in the US, so prices seldom fall below
last year's level. Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's
supply runs low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rise
about 20%-75% during this time and then fall back to "normal." Unquestionably,
a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers to turn to harder
drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control program can ever be beneficial
or "successful."
GROW IT!
There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the
grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities"
on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly
vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to popular belief, grass grows well in many place
on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature
does not raise above 75°. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours
of sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT
DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au
naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass
seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encountered
with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law
enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed
and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also
have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There
are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you should
start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the
indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that you should
just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will come up with
this method, but there is no shock of transplant to kill some of the seedlings
halfway through. The soil should be prepared for the little devils by turning
it over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per
square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water
soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times
and left to sit about one week. The plants should be planted at least three
feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too close will result
in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season,
BUT not too much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much
water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these
plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye,
spinach, or pepperweed. It is probably a good idea to plant in many small,
broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although
the male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will
still be plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.
Marijuana can reach a height of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on
a star) and obtain a diameter of 4½ inches. If normal, it has a
sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male
plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3-5
weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males
when they are mature. Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it,
but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well.
A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms
to the soil, if they live and hang around, it is good soil, but if they
don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for
the plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds.
A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have
consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be gray
and shriveled up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test
is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably
good for planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water
overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy
end UP. Plant about ½" deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about
five days.
SPROUTING
The best all around sprouting method is probably to make
a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper
cups with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a
mixture of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer
and water mixed in about one week before planting. When ready to transplant,
you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant.
This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in the permanent
soil. If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green
safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation.
If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours before
sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling
the young plants. After the plants are set in the hole, you should water
them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also
purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent
fact that it is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control
the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed
"good" plant. Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor
cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even
require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL
HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN! If growing in a room, you should put tar paper
on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You
will need about one cubic foot of soil for each plant. The plants will
need about 150 mL. of water per plant/per week. They will also need fresh
air, so the room must be ventilated. (However, the fresh air should contain
NO TOBACCO smoke.) At least eight hours of light a day must be provided.
As you increase the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less
males. Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination,
beyond this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.
Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of light.
This gives you more females. The walls of your growing room should be painted
white or covered with aluminum foil to reflect the light. The lights themselves
can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts per plant or
one plant per two feet of fluorescent tube. The fluorescents are the best,
but do not use "cool white" types. The light sources should be an average
of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may
be mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very
best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others especially for
growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green
or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female plant with
pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower,
which really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch
of leaves in a cluster. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you
should pick the males before they shed their pollen as the female will
use some of her resin to make the seeds. After another three to five weeks,
after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from
loneliness?), this is the time to pick. In some nefarious Middle Eastern
countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana.
The little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed
to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey is then enjoyed by conventional
methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his
pollen then pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her. To
cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished
by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source
(such as an electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130°.
The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air
and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange
crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves
to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat
source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil
level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leaves. Take out any
seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
foil and put them in the middle shelf of the oven, which is set on "broil."
In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and
give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females,
or the THC content of plants: You can make the plants mature in 36 days
if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 14 hours,
but the plants will not be as big. You should gradually shorten the light
cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You can stop any watering as the
plants begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increase
the resin a bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop
flower stalks. You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it
joins the plant, and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks. This
can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers than
usual.If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage,
they will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the
flowering also, it may happen in as little as two weeks. You can employ
a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to get and expensive.
(Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and costs about $35 a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled
water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the
seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid
plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold"
and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed. The problem here
is that colchicine is a poison in larger quantities and may be poisonous
in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S
HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment down and
warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations
will also be polyploid) because of this poisonous quality. However, the
Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small quantities to
people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are
small, they would appear to be larger than any you could receive form smoking
a seed-treated plant. It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S,
if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off
the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the
seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,
wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficult to recognize as marijuana.
Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures
have been known to produce so much resin that it crystallizes a strong
hash all over the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant
or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to
passing judgment - soil around 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water,
light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow - smaller leaves still green.
Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly
with a purple cast. Phosphorous deficiency - add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least venial
areas. Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium
content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with
edge areas turning dark gray. Potassium deficiency - add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue. Boron deficiency
- add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems. Zinc
deficiency - add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing. Molybdenum
deficiency - use any plant food with a bit of molybdenum in it.
EXTRA SECTION: BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough,
the answer to this often-asked inquiry is, yes! Like most other things
in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how
much effort you are going to put into it. There are no instant, supermarket
products which you can spray on Kansas catnip and have wonderweed, but
there are a number of simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!)
which will enhance mediocre grass somewhat, and there are a couple of fairly
involved processes which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something
worth writing home about.
EASES
1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter
in a restricted fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid)
and add a bunch of dry ice, and the place the whole shebang in the freezer
for a few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the
product, however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday
freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a
baggy or another socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark,
dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The
grass will develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny
bit funny, but does increase the potency.
3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp
for a full day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort,
but if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian,
right-from-the-President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri
weed, and you're packing your bags to leave town before the people arrive
for their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt.
4. Take the undesirable portions of our stash (stems,
seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough
rubbing alcohol to cover everything. Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on
an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alcohol is too flammable.
After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING
THE ALCOHOL. Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh
alcohol. When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine
the two quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.
Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in
the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the thoroughly combines
it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.
SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN
Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin,
as in Eli Whitney. It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial
cotton gin. One takes about one ounce of an herb and breaks it up. This
is then placed in the Marygin and the protruding knob is rotated. This
action turns the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris
(seeds, stems). It does not pulverize the grass as screens have a habit
of doing and is easily washable.
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