Note: I haven't had a chance to inspect the links on this page in some time, so a few may not work. Forgive me. I'll get to it as soon as I can.
In 1924, my grandfather attended the World's Ninth Sunday School Convention at Glasgow, Scotland. What follows is my transcription of the notes he made in a small tablet describing the first part of that trip. These are his words entirely, except for a word or two added for clarity, identified by enclosure in brackets. I have also added photographs and hyperlinks to web pages which give photographs and/or descriptions of places he visited, so if you would like to parallel his actual tour in 1924 with a virtual tour of the sites as they look today, click on the links. Be forewarned, though; you may find yourself spending more time here than you'd planned if you find this diary as fascinating as I.
Doubtless Dr. Johnson, through lectures and personal contact, shared many memories of this journey in the four years he had remaining, but it was to a limited audience, and those experiences died with him. Or did they? Through the miracle of the Internet, we now have a unique way of making at least a part of his experience of 75 years ago come alive for us today. I think he would like that.
The "Annie" mentioned at the beginning of the diary refers to Dr. Johnson's daughter Annie Pearson Johnson, whose husband Joseph Bently Cherry practiced dentistry in an office at 11th. and U NW in Washington, DC until his retirement. I have no information on the other people mentioned in that section.
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(Note:
In reviewing this material, I've noticed that some of the links no longer work. I apologize, and I
promise to fix them as soon as I can find the time. [06May09])
The diary:
Aiken, S. C. June 4, 1924
Left Aiken at about 1 o’clock p.m. Wednesday June 4, 1924 for Washington. Arrived early Thursday morning June 5 and spent the day with Annie and her family, visiting Mrs. Lightfoot’s family and Mr. & Mrs. Hewlett, Mr. H. P. Slaughter. Went with latter in afternoon (Thursday) to the High School drill at Park. Saw Sallie. Dr. Wilder called to see me in afternoon. Sent card home concerning my arrival and stay in Washington. Took train Thursday night for New York. Arrived there early Friday morning (June 6, 1924). Went to Thos. Cook’s office and also to Mother Zion Church and at Brotherhood House in afternoon met Mr. Eichelberger & Miss Janifer and Dr. Brown. Secured stopping place (Mrs. Cheatham’s 245 West 136th Street) where I spent Friday night. Did a little shopping Sat. forenoon and arrived at steamer (Cameronia) about 10 o’clock Saturday morning. Steamer sailed about 1200 noon on Saturday June 7, 1924. Had a stateroom with Mr. Eichelberger.
Sunday June 8, 1924
On board S. S. Cameronia.
Attended religious services in large dining room (on steamer). Dr. Vance preached. Met during the day very many of the fellow passengers on the ship. Most of them being delegates to the great Sunday School Convention to be held at Glasgow. Song services held during the day and evening onboard. Spent a most pleasant day and retired in good spirits. Sea smooth and ship steady.
Monday June 9th 1924
(On the Cameronia)
Arose early feeling fine. Had good breakfast. Attended religious services in Lounge room at 10:30. Inspected ship and enjoyed several friendly conferences with fellow passengers. 9: p.m., attended lecture by Dr. Robert McGowan of Pittsburgh, Pa. Subject "The Caring Scot." Retired late. Good night’s rest.
Tuesday June 10, 1924
(Onboard Cameronia)
Rose early. Dark, rainy day. Devotionals in Lounge room at 10:30 a. m. Attended a mock political convention on shipboard at night.
Wednesday June 11, 1924
(Onboard Cameronia)
Arose early. Fine day. Ocean smooth. Everybody in good spirits. Devotional exercises at 10:30 followed by an address by Dr. Weigle (of Yale College), subject Prayer.
Thursday June 12, 1924
(Cameronia)
Arose early. Fine day. Devotionals (10:30). Several impromptu concerts &c by passengers. Several of the members of our party participated. 9 p. m. a memorial meeting held in memory of the late Dr. Lawrence. A number of good addresses.
Friday, June 13, 1924
Arose early. Fine day. Calm ocean and good breakfast. Morning devotionals conducted by a lady from Ohio. Several addresses during day. Song concert. Scotland songs and some folk lore songs "Sweet Ivory soap" you’re the dope, &c.
Saturday June 14, 1924
One week out of New York (on shipboard). U.S. Flag Day. Big celebration with flags and banners and songs and addresses.
Sunday June 15, 1924
On shipboard.
A number of our fellow passengers disembarked at Greenock (by tender for Ireland). Saw land (the coast of Ireland) early Sunday morning. Reached Glascow sometime during Sunday night.
Monday June 16, 1924
Disembarked this morning. Luggage examined by officers and we went to the house of Lady McLeod #4 Park Circus Place, Glasgow, where our party was entertained during our stay in that city. A fine home in all respects.
Tuesday June 17, 1924
Arose after spending a most delightful night’s rest--my first
experience in "Bonny Scotland."
Lady McLeod treated our party to a splendid trip by train and steamer to the renowned Loch Lomond.
Had lunch at Hotel Tarbet on the lake. The Scottish scenery is perfectly grand. Mountain, lake and
rural scenery and Scottish hospitality cannot be surpassed.
Wednesday June 18, 1924
Arose early. Visited the Glasgow Cathedral—a magnificent old church.
Building commenced in
1181. A huge structure. Visited the site of the old church (now torn down) pastored by Dr.
McLeod’s father. Attended opening exercises of the World’s Sunday School Convention. Fine
addresses and music.
Thursday June 19, 1924
Attended meetings of the convention. Various departmental meetings and conferences held during
day and evening.
Friday June 20, 1924
Attended convention. Letter from Pres. Coolidge and a number of addresses were presented.
Saturday June 21, 1024
Attended convention. Many addresses and reports rendered.
Sunday June 22, 1924
Attended services during day and evening. Good sermons and
inspiring music.
Monday June 23, 1924
Attended sessions of convention. Visited some Scotland Masonic
brethren and was given a most cordial treatment and fraternal
recognition. In afternoon our party paid a visit to Ayr, the land of
Robt. Burns—entertained by Sir and Lady McLeod at their summer home
there. Saw many memorials
and relics of Burns, his birthplace, the Bonny
Doon, &c. Born Jan. 24, 1759. Highland
Mary &c.
Tuesday June 24, 1924
Attended sessions of convention at St. Andrew’s Hall.
Wed. June 25, 1924
Attended convention.
Thursday, June 26, 1924
Ditto.
Friday June 27, 1924
[Edinburgh Castle is pictured below]
Left Sir McLeod’s to catch our train for trip through the
Trossachs.
Rob Roy’s country and the
land of Scott. Splendid drive (by horse drawn vehicles).
Aberfoil
by boat;
Loch Katrine and most
wonderful mountain scenery. Returned to Glasgow and caught train for
Edinburgh. Arrived in
evening and were entertained during our stay by Mrs. Ferguson. Saw at
Edinburgh Castle the
automatic time gun. Went into the
St. Margaret Chapel,
said to be the smallest chapel of the kind
in the world. Members of our party made addresses in this beautiful
little chapel.
Saturday June 28, 1924
Visited (Cook’s Guide) house of John Knox & his church.
Holyrood
Palace, Edinburgh Castle,
Roslyn
Church, the Apprentice Column
1440—the only church building left intact after the great
Reformation, the great Giles Cathedral, the museum at; saw Princess
Street, said to be the prettiest street in the world, the Queen’s
Drive &c.
Sunday June 29, 1924
Attended services at Giles Cathedral in the forenoon and at the
First Baptist Church in the afternoon. No night services. Took a long
drive in the evening with the party.
Monday, June 30, 1924
Left Edinburgh on Monday for Melrose, our next stop. Arrived late
in evening. At Edinburgh we saw what is claimed to be the oldest lodge
room in the world.
Tuesday July 1st, 1924
[Melrose Abbey is pictured at right] Visited Abbortsford, the home of Sir Walter Scott. Saw his
library and many interesting relics of
that great writer, the River Tweed and a most beautiful landscape.
Saw at Dryburgh
the room (very old) in which the Royal Arch Masons meet once each year.
Visited Melrose Abby
& saw many very old remains of that ancient building now in ruins
arriving [at] the spot where the heart of Robert Bruce is said to be buried. The old
Abby has been destroyed 3 times. Had a long walk along the Tweed and
among the hills.
"The Three Eildons" 3 hills.
Wed. July 2, 1924
Arrived in Shakespeare country. Stopped at the Wool Pack Hotel.
Thursday July 3, 1924
Kenelworth Castle—built in the 11th century. Visited the Old Mill
where grain has been ground since the 12th century and is being ground
today. Visited Guy’s Cliff, Warrick Castle. Saw many
beautiful paintings and furnishings of priceless value. Saw a great
vase of the Grecian period. Went to Stratford-on-Avon, the home of
Shakespeare. Visited his birthplace, the home of
Anne Hathaway, the Holy Trinity Chruch, the grave of Shakespeare, and saw
many interesting relics of the Bard of Avon and his times.
Friday July 4, 1924
Took Train for London. Arrived about noon. Visited the British
Empire Exhibition at Wemberly and spent afternoon viewing the wonderful
displays shown. Stopped in London at home of Miss Douglass, 66 Oxford
Garden, N. Kensington W. 10. London.
[Westminster Abbey Coronation Chair with
"Stone of Destiny" is pictured at right] Saturday July 5, 1924
Visited the
Tower of London, London Bridge, Guild Hall, and Saint
Paul’s Cathedral,
Westminster Abby. Saw tomb of Livingstone, the Unknown
Soldier’s Grave, the chair in which the Kings of
England are crowned under which is a
stone called the lucky stone, said
to have been brought from Egypt to Scotland and then to London. Was
thrilled at the great Westminster Abby, the burial place of Kings and
scholars and greatness. Heard Big Ben strike the hour. Attended
religious services this afternoon at St. Paul’s Cathedral. Heard the
great choir sing and the minister read: "I will liken him to a man who
built his house upon a rock &c." In the Guild Hall, Mr. E and myself were
invited to sit in the Lord Mayor’s Chair.
Sunday July 6, 1924
Visited the church of John Wesley, saw his grave, stood in his
pulpit and heard a splendid sermon by a minister, text: "Possess your
soul in peace." Wesley born at Epworth 1703, (Wesley) died
March 1791, age 88. In the evening I attended services and took
Holy Communion at the great Spurgeon Tabernacle, the congregation of
Charles Spurgeon. It is not the identical building, but the
same church. It is a huge structure. About 2000 communed and
a number joined the church.
Monday July 7, 1924
[Image of Eton College is at right]
Visited Stoke
Poges church,
the house in which William Penn was
born, the Old Country Churchyard (Gray’s Elegy). Went to Eton College
(500 years old and about 11,000 students). Visited
Windsor Castle, the
home of the King, Hampton Court, 1200 rooms, the birthplace of
Pope &c.
Tuesday July 8, 1924
Did some shopping and rode about the city, viewing its enormous size
and left late in the evening for the Hook of Holland near Rotterdam
where we arrived early next morning.
Wednesday July 9, 1924
Left on early train for the Hague. Here we drove about the city,
saw the residence of the Queen,
the Peace Building or Palace as it is called, the Palace in the Wood, &c. Took train for
Amsterdam and we arrived and went to our hotel there about noon.
Visited Diamond factory and
drove about the city in afternoon.
Thursday July 10, 1924
Visited art gallery, Rembrandt’s masterpiece is here. And a
splendid display of great paintings.
They showed us what they called the largest unsupported banquet hall
in the world.
Friday July 11, 1924
[Photograph below is of Volendam, Holland] Visited across the Zuiderzee
the typical (Holland) towns of Volendam,
Edam, Monnickendam and
Markem. The dykes, the windmills, the lowlying pasturelands, the fine cattle and the manner of
making cheese, the dress, customs and houses of the people all filled us with wonder as well as the
canals where men on the tow path pulled the boats along. The costumes of the people appeared
really funny to us. They have not changed a bit in 300 years. Left next morning for Antwerp. Saturday, July 12, 1924
Visited the great picture gallery
of Antwerp, and the cathedral which is said to contain the finest
chimes in the world and drove about the city. Left in afternoon for
Brussels and went to the [name
unreadable—torn page] Hotel.
Sunday, July 13, 1924
Could not find English speaking Church, so our
party depended for its Sunday worship upon one of its own members who read a sermon and
went over the Sunday School lesson. Visited the Palace of Justice and some monuments and took
a drive about the city. Some difficulty in making ourselves understood in seeking to find our way
about the city. Few seem to speak English. The Belgians are great wine and beer
drinkers—women, men and even children are sitting in front of hotels, cafes and stores on the
streets drinking and laughing and talking. They seem to be a peaceable, kindly and hospitable set
of people.
Monday July 14, 1924
Had an early breakfast and took train for Paris and arrived about noon. Went directly to the
Hotel
Avenida, just off from Ave. Les Champs-Elysées. I was struck with wonder at the beauty of the
great city of Paris. It is charming.
Tuesday July 15, 1924
Visited the Church of La Madeleine,
that of St. Germain (which latter was struck by a shell
from Big
Bertha 70 miles away in the World’s War). The Hotel Des Invalides,
the tomb of Napoleon, the
Foche Car (Armistice), Notre Dame, the Louvre, the
Bastille (its site),
Arc de
Triomphe. Under the latter is buried an Unknown Soldier, which
grave is always kept covered with fresh flowers. A flame of fire also
burns on it always. Went up in the Eifel Tower, that loftiest [of] structures ever
built by man that rears itself into the sky nearly a thousand feet above the surface of the earth. Also
climbed to the top of the Arc [de] Triomphe. Visited the great Pantheon, that so-called Temple of
Reason.
Wednesday July 16, 1924
Breakfast early and start for a sight seeing tour outside of the city. Saw an American cemetery
where are buried the American soldiers who died in the Paris hospitals during the Great War.
Visited Chateau Malmaison, the home of Josephine, the church in the village she attended &c.
Malmaison is a large place, beautiful grounds and many interesting scenes and relics of the great
Little Corporal. The coaches and carriages are particularly fine. The visit to Versailles was
peculiarly interesting.
And here the diary ends. My family has often wondered over the past
75 years why my grandfather chose to make this trip, for even as socially
minded as he was, going off to Europe to attend a Sunday School convention would seem an
unlikely thing for him to do. In looking closely at the places he
visited, however, I may have solved this mystery. Many of the sites
he chose to tour were significant, historically, in the development of
Masonry and contained relics important to Masonic tradition. He had
spent a lifetime lecturing on Masonic history and
tradition, and to see the sites and relics of the beginnings of
Scottish Rite Masonry first hand must have been an unimaginable thrill
for him, particulary at his stage in life.
But in addition to the importance the sites visited held for Masonry,
there might have been another, perhaps even more driving purpose for this trip.
For an educated man, steeped in the poetry and prose of the 19th century,
this was an indescribably satisfying adventure. To walk the same lanes
as Shapespeare and Anne Hathaway, to stand in the Old Country Churchyard
celebrated by Thomas Gray in his "Elegy," to allow one's eyes to roam over the personal library and effects
of Sir Walter Scott and take an extended walk along the banks of
the River Tweed--for a man of culture, this was truly the stuff of dreams,
and the crowning achievement of a lifetime.
If any family member knows where the other notebook(s) relating
to this trip may be found, I will be happy to put them up as well.
For more information about Dr. Johnson, see the Family History Page.
Home
Last Reviewed, and all links fixed: 06Jul03
At Glasgow
At Glasgow
At Glasgow
At Glasgow
At Glasgow
Glasgow
Glasgow
Glasgow
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Edinburgh
Melrose, at Queen & Abbortsford Hotel.
Warrick
Warrick
London
London
London
London
Amsterdam
Amsterdam
Arrived Antwerp. Queen’s Hotel.
Brussels
Brussels
Paris
Paris
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