• Start by opening up the bias tape so it is flat. There will be three folds, the center one and two side ones.
• Using a basting stitch, either by hand or by machine, sew a row of basting in the grooves made by the two outer foldlines. Remember to leave the threads* long and don't backstitch.
• Fold the tape back into place and start to pin it onto the curved area you want to bind. Remember that Double-fold Bias Tape has one edge wider than the other, that should be the back side, or the side away from you.
• It may be helpful to "shape" your curve into place before pinning by pulling on one**only of the basting threads and "drawing up the excess" and then pressing it into a curve with your iron.You will need to do this to the front and back of the bias tape.
• Pin with the points of the pins pointing in and the heads pointing out.Be sure to get all layers when you pin.
• Stitch on, using a small zig-zag stitch or straight stitch, close to the top folded edge of the tape.
• * Alternate thread suggestion: Use "fusible thread" in your bobbin, then, when pressing into curves, the tape will stay in place while you sew!
  (One Example:Gutermann Fusible Thread--available at most fabric stores, or from Clotilde Notions Catalog: item #237919, 165 yards for $5.00
  
• **If you pull both top and bobbin threads in basting, the stitches will lock up and no drawing up or gathering will happen!

When sewing fake fur, smooth pile away from edge before stitching. Use a tapestry needle to pick pile out of seam from right side, if necessary.

When working with cotton-flannel plaid, it is preferable to purchase woven-in plaids (on which both sides look alike and plaid lines automatically align with fabric grain), not printed plaids. Remember to add 15 per cent to allow for shrinkage and matching of plaids.

When cutting out knits, remember that most have a nap, so lay out pattern pieces in the same direction.

When you are machine appliqueing, avoid puckering of the seam line as follows: Fuse lightweight web to wrong side of applique, trim interfacing edges even with applique, then pin or fuse to background and stitch. Or place a piece of tissue paper underneath work, stitch, then rip paper away.

Never buy fabric you aren't crazy about!

When buying shirt or jacket buttons, purchase an extra one. Stitch it inside the placket at the hemline so you'll always have a replacement on hand.

Pin or baste napped or shiny fabrics such as real or faux suede or leather, velvet, satin or silk in seam allowance to avoid seam-line marks on the finished garment.

When assembling collars and cuffs, apply interfacing to wrong side of top piece to hide seam allowances and keep them smooth.

Serger Tip: When sewing with a serger, don't pull stretch fabric, but do ease it through the machine with one hand held in front of presser foot.

After sewing sharp corners and curves, trim seam allowance before turning right side out. Carefully trim diagonally across seam allowance at corners; cut notches in seam allowance around curves at evenly spaced intervals.

Keep a small loose-leaf binder on hand in your sewing room. Use one page for each sewing project. Staple in fabric swatches, thread and pattern information and notes on alterations made, what worked and what you would change next time

Garment-Care Tip: Many knitwear designers recommend that you use a clear gentle liquid dishwashing detergent to wash handknit woolen sweaters.

Dried Flower Tip: Pick plant material before noon, in dry weather just as flower buds are beginning to open. Avoid blemished fruits, leaves and flowers; any flaws become more obvious as material dries.

Crafting Tip: When you're a left-hander trying to follow step-by-step diagrams designed for right-handers, try the following trick. Prop a small mirror at left-hand side of each diagram to see your correct hand position in the reflection

• wax stripper
• TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) or a similar substitute
• sand paper
• porch & filler paint

Where's May??

• Needles and threads are two of the most important variables in your sewing because they come in direct contact with your fabric.
• It is not true that you must always use polyester thread with polyester fabric.
• The truth is, sewing machines were invented to be used with cotton thread (and they still do function best with it)
• Most polyester thread has a lot of stretch to it. Because machine tension is resistance against the thread, it stretches out poly thread like a rubberband as it moves through the machine. Then when the garment relaxes back to its original state, puckers can form.
• It isn't a matter of whether to use poly or cotton thread; what is relevant is whether the fabric is thin, stiff, resistant, or soft to the hand.
• In all cases you want the thickness of thread to approximate the thickness of the garment fibers as closely as possible.
• Cotton thread makes the smoothest, best seams and is the best for dressmaking.
• One can rehydrate dry cotton thread in the crisper section of your refridgerator!
• The thread industry has never standardized measurements. Two companies can call the same weight of thread different grades. (interesting!)
• The author prefers Mettler brand thread as the superior cotton brand.
• Fine weight threads should only be used with fine machine needles to fill the eye properly.
• Poly thread has 3 basic uses: activewear garments, fabrics exposed to the elements such as swimwear & furniture, and on real leather due to tannic acids.
• Use polyester for the prime reason of strength.
• The best poly threads are made of continuous filaments then twisted, such as Metrosene and Gutermann.
• Cotton-wrapped poly is the worst of both worlds. Some brands are better than others. Check it for slubs, then pull gently to check how rubbery. The more give, the more problems it will cause.
• If you must choose between exact color match and good quality, go for the good quality. Because a lousy seam will look bad regardless of color match, and a good seam will hide an imperfect color match! (great tip!)
• Manufacturers buy in such large quantity, that they have their threads dyed to match.
• Don't hold a whole spool against your fabric, instead, unwind a single strand to check color.
• Never use polyester on silk because it is 4 to 7 times stronger and will distort the seams. Use fine cotton thread instead.
• Silk thread was created for hand sewing and is not suggested for machine use.
• Don't use silk thread on silk fabric seams, it is way too strong for fine silks and for most wovens.
• Silk thread is best for buttonholes, pad stitching, and hems.
• Don't put topstitching thread in the bobbin because its thickness can ruin the tension mechanism.
• Use the same thread type in both the upper mechanism and the bobbin. (except for topstitching thread.)
• Thread manufacturers have been known to drop their quality once their name was established.
• Stores will always continue to sell junk thread because many consumers do not take the time to learn more about thread quality.
• Bad thread is often the sole source of many sewers' problems.

I have a machine that is not designed for silicone or oil to be used on the thread that passes through the tension disks. To safely apply lubricant to the thread, I use the little felt adhesive "dots" (the kind designed to stick to the bottom of items to keep them from scratching wood surfaces.) I stick a "dot" to the front my machine and put a few drops of lubricant on it so the thread is lubricated right before it goes through the needle. The lubricant never touches the tension area of the machine. This is especially good for metallics.--From Donna Long

One of the things I learned about serging with some of the Delicate Decorative Threads (thinner threads) is that they break easily. I'd adjust the tensions on the serger loopers, but still got breakage. My solution: add a transparent thread or very fine monofilament to the delicate threads. I was amazed to find out that many people don't know you can feed two threads at one time through a looper. You can! It really works to keep my frustration level down when serging decorative stitching on all my projects.--Eva Missey

I love to make small gifts and crafts with a variety of colors of thread, especially serger threads. I keep all my left-over clippings for two good reasons. One, they make an excellent "stuffing" for small craft items, creating a very soft feel. And two, come spring, I put the clippings out on my balcony when the birds are building their nests. They GO WILD diving for the brightly colored fragments. It's wonderful to watch them, and I get a kick out of being a bird nest interior designer.--Marilyn J. Day

Whether you're going to break the bank or stay conservative when you buy a sewing machine, here are some things to keep in mind.

• What Kind should I buy?

Here are the things I would consider if I were to purchase sewing machines today.

Your first step should be to decide what options you want on a sewing machine. Make a list of the kind of sewing you do. What kind of accessories you use. What accessories you would have used if you had them. Research all the different brands on the internet. Here are some places to start:


• Baby Lock: http://www.babylock.com/
• Bernina : http://www.berninausa.com
• Brother: brother.com/us-hsm/indexus.html
• Elna USA: http://www.elnausa.com/
• Husqvarna Viking: http://www.vikinghusqvarna.com/
• Janome Sewing Machines: http://www.janome.com/
• Pfaff: http://www.pfaff.com
• Singer: http://www.singersewing.com/
• White Sewing Machines: http://www.whitesewing.com/sew.html
• White Sergers: http://www.whitesewing.com/sergers.html
 

• Where should I buy it?

The internet is not going to give you hands on experience on any machine. However it is a great place to learn more information before you visit a dealer. You have to visit merchants and test run the machines. Once you have found a local dealer be sure to communicate with them as to your needs. Be prepared to test a machine.

• Ask for a different color bobbin and top thread color.  This will allow you to see the tension on the machine.
• Ask how the tension is adjusted.  Play with it and see if it is as easy as the sales person is presenting.
• Bring fabric samples with you.  If you are going to want quilting, appliqué, embroider or what ever features you plan on using, have small samples of the work ready to play with.
• If you will want to work with special threads. Bring a spool with you. Don't expect the dealer to have what you want to work with on hand.
• Ask about accessories and available attachments. Ask what they are used for.  Would it be to your benefit to have them, and why.
• Take home any literature the dealer offers and read it at your leisure. If you were uncomfortable making notes in front of the dealer, write things down as soon as you get in the car.

• Questions you should ask the dealer:

• Will service be done locally?
• Are parts available locally or within my country?
• If it will have to be shipped out, where to and how much down time would I be looking at?
• Have they had a lot of repair orders for the machine your interested in?
• Do they have a list of customers, who wouldn't mind being contacted, that have purchased the machine?
• Do they offer lessons or video tapes? These are a tremendous help in learning all there is to know about your machine.

• What options do I want on the machine?

• Make a list of the features you absolutely have to have. (for help go to: "What to look for in a new machine!" or "What to look for in a new serger!")
• Make another list of the features you would like to have.
• Make still another of the features you wish you could afford.
• Make these lists for every machine you look at.
• Note the price on your list and rate the machine when you test it.
• Don't be afraid to go back to the dealer and ask questions. Maybe they have another model that actually fits your needs better than the one you tried out.

Read the Sewing Machine Owners Survey Results, for opinions from people who actually own the machine you might be interested in.
News groups can put out an annoying amount of email but they can't be beat for talking to the people you need.  If you are worried about posting to a group, sign up and lurk for a while to get the feel of the group.  Introduce yourself and ask questions.  Something as simple as:
"Hi! I'm new to the group and thinking about purchasing  ABC model 123.  Has anyone had any experience with this machine?  If you had it to do over again, would you purchase it again?   Do you think  $000 is a fair price?"
Can get you more mail than you can handle. Be sure to let the group know that you have made a decision and thank every one for their help. It will slow the topic down. One such place to join is quiltopolis.com .
Bulletin Boards are another great spot to gather information. Again a simple post will put you in contact with people who will know the good and bad points of almost any machine. Be sure to book mark the location of the board you posted on and check back for replies. 

Keep in Mind!

Just because a brand had an excellent reputation in the past and is very well known, doesn't necessarily make it a great machine today.  Companies change hands without changing names via buy outs and take overs.  Judge the machine on what you want and what people who are using the machine have to say about it.

Would you like more buying tips? Read what Carol Thayer, Extension Clothing Specialist, has done for Selecting A Sewing Machine.



Enter Free Sewing Contest--answer two easy questions and enter The Mining Co. weekly sewing and crafting related drawing!


http://sewing.miningco.com




November Tips:




Storing Quilts and Fabrics




For anyone who has received or created a quilt, ensuring it remains undamaged in its' original condition can be a concern. The same is true for your fabric stash. Care and storage techniques will affect the long term condition of the quilts and fabric in general.

Items being packed away for storage must be clean. No matter how carefully you pack your quilt, dirt and residue will cause damage. The longer a mark or stain remains within a fabric, the harder it will be to remove. Often times, a stain in fabric is difficult to see. Just because a quilt or fabric looks clean does not necessarily mean it is.

A sugar-based stain will dry clear but turn brown over time. Oils and perspiration from our bodies as well as cosmetics and lotions can oxidize within the fabric over time, damaging the fibers.

Once your quilt is clean, there are three factors to consider when it comes to determining the best place to store your quilts. These are: light, temperature/humidity, and pollinates. Light or lack of light is very important. Light, especially ultraviolet light, damages the fibers within fabric. Colors can fade and whites turn yellow. Controlling the amount of light your stored quilt will be subjected to is essential. This does not mean that you must keep your quilt in the dark forever - simply be aware of the impact of light when storing or displaying your quilt.

Storing a quilt in a dark area will protect the fabric, and increase its' longevity. By keeping the quilt in dark storage when not in use, the small amounts of indirect light the quilt receives when you have it out will be relatively harmless.

Temperature and humidity together play an important role in the long term care of your quilt. Any fabric should always be stored in an area that has both an even temperature and humidity level. Basements, attics, and the garage are among the worst possible places for storing fabrics andquilts. These areas often experience extreme temperature variations.

Humidity is the element that actually causes damage to the fibers, and humidity is directly related to the temperature within an area. The air in any area holds water vapor, and the amount of water vapor in the air depends on the temperature. The warmer the temperature, the more water vapor the air is able to hold. If the temperature in the area you are storing a quilt or fabric becomes too high, water vapor in the air can increase and cause mold to grow and fabric dyes to break down. When the temperature drops too low, the air can only hold a small amount of water vapor, causing the individual fibers in the fabric to dry out and become brittle and even break.

Water vapor is not the only enemy that travels through the air. Pollinates within the air are another important consideration when storing your quilt and are another reason why it is important that your quilt is clean prior to storage. Dust and dirt can lodge within the fibers of the fabric. These small particals are abrasive and can cut and damage the individual fibers. In addition to the damage dust and dirt can do directly, these pollinates can also attract bugs and insects to the fabric. Mold spores also travel through the air and can get into layers within the fibers, waiting for ideal conditions to grow.

Once you have selected a suitable location to store your quilt, packing or wrapping it for storage is very important. You want your quilt to be able to breath. Placing a quilt within a sealed bag of any type can result in the quilt becoming damaged or destroyed. The air within the bag is unable to be released, leading to increased temperature and humidity within the bag. This can actually cause your quilt to become damp - a wonderful breeding ground for mold and mildew.

Quilts are best rolled on rolls or boxed for storage. Regular packing boxes are not recommended as the ideal material for storage. These boxes contain acids that can cause staining and a general deterioration of the fabric. All textiles should be stored in acid-free boxes or rolled with acid-free paper. Never use tissue paper. Acid-free boxes and paper can be expensive but will always be less costly than the loss of a precious quilt.

Other types of material that can be used for storage are muslin, clean and well rinsed (not bleached) cotton sheets or cloth, or Tyvek®. Tyvek® is a high-tech fabric produced by DuPont. This fabric is wonderful for storing textiles for numerous reasons. Tyvek® is breathable and provides protection from weather, light, moisture and pollinates. It is strong, lightweight and durable. It is able to block out 99.8% of the UVrays in light. Using Tyvek® to wrap or roll a quilt or fabric in will help protect the fibers in the quilt.

Rolling your quilt onto a tube is the ideal storage choice. If the tube is not acid-free, cover the cardboard roll first with acid-free paper, or cotton cloth. Taking the quilt, roll onto the tube with the right side facing out. Cover with a cotton sheet or cloth.

If it is not possible to store the quilt rolled onto a tube, boxing would be the next best choice.As much as is practical, avoid folding your quilt. Folds can place permanent creases within fabric that are impossible to remove. Folding can also stretch the individual stitches and fibers within the quilt. If you have to fold your quilt, pad the underside of the fold to make a relaxed fold, avoiding any sharp folds. Stored quilts that have been folded should be unfolded and inspected for damage at least once a year.

Never place the fabric in direct contact with wood.You can increase the life of your quilt (or any other fabric) by taking a bit of time to properly prepare it for storage and ensuring it is kept in the best possible storage environment. By making sure your quilt is clean, that your hands are oil and lotion free when handling, and choosing the best possible environment for storage, you will have gone a long way to ensuring that you have a treasure that can be passed from generation to generation.


December 1999 Tips:




Sewing with Velveteen




The holiday season is just around the corner and with it comes the opportunity to use specialty fabrics. Velveteen is a wonderful fabric for so many holiday sewing projects. From dresses to gifts bags to quilting, velveteen is relatively easy to sew and wears well.

Velveteen is usually 100% cotton. Like all 100% cotton fabrics, it willshrink. Before sewing, prewash the fabric using the same washing instructions as you intend to use for regular care later on. If you plan to warm wash and dry your project after it is complete, prewash the fabric the same way.

Velveteen contains a nap. Having a nap requires special care when laying out your pattern pieces on the fabric. All patterns pieces must lay in the same direction. If the pattern is not laid out properly, your finished project will look as though you have used 2 different fabrics.

For an item that will be durable and offer the richest color, place the pattern pieces with the nap running down the pattern - that is from top to bottom. How can you tell which way the nap runs on the fabric? Rub your hand across the fabric. If your hand is running in the direction of the nap, the pile of the velveteen will be smooth and lay down. If you are rubbing you hand against the nap, your hand will make the pile push against you. You will not feel the same smoothness as you did rubbing with the nap.

Once you have determined which direction the nap runs, place you pattern pieces on the fabric, all laying in the same direction. When working with velveteen it is best to cut the pattern out flat on a single layer of fabric. If you do need to fold some of the velveteen for cutting, be sure to fold the fabric with the wrong sides together for cutting.

Velveteen can become marked by pins very easily. To protect the fabric, it is best to use only fine pins and to place pins within seam allowances. Now you are ready to sew. When sewing with velveteen, use a fine sharp needle. Stitches should be 10 to 12 stitches per inch, using light pressure on your pressure foot. Use a polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread.

When sewing with velveteen, be sure to always sew in the direction of the nap - this allows the fabric to run smoothly through your machine. If you experience difficulties with the fabric not feeding properly through the machine foot, you might wish to switch to a roller or walking foot for better results. If the feed dogs are leaving marks inthe velveteen, tissue stitch seams. This involves using tissue or toilet paper between the feed dogs and the fabric. The paper helps to feed the fabric through the feed dogs without marking the fabric.

Once the seam iscomplete, the paper can be removed. Velveteen does contain a pile (this means there are looped or cut fibers on the fabric, like terry cloth). Pile fabric tend to shed at the cut edges and velveteen is no exception. Unfinished or raw edges are best finished with a serger stitch, zig-zagging, or encased with a seam binding.

Velveteen can be pressed using the heat and steam from an iron. Be sure to test with a small sample first. Place the fabric on your ironing board. Place a thick towel on the board for added thickness. Place the velveteen on the towel, with the right side down. Never press on the right side of the fabric as this will flatten the pile of the fabric. With the iron about ˝" away from the fabric, apply steam or heat from the iron.

Once you are finished pressing an area, hang to cool. Do not touch the pile until the fabric is both cool and dry. Once garments are complete, wash inside-out in a method of your choice. If the velveteen just needs to be "refluffed" and not washed, place it in the drier with several damp towels for 15 to 20 minutes. All garments and unused or uncut fabric should be hung for storage. Folding the fabric or the finished garment can crush the pile.

Velveteen is a wonderful fabric to work with. It can be used for everything from party dresses and outfits, to tree skirts, gift bags, quilts, and so much more.




Year 2000 Tips:

Looking for Specific Fabric?


Here are many sites devoted to finding fabric and fabric information on the web:
Information on Microfibers including HWM rayon microfibers:
http://www.ag.ohio-state.edu/~ohioline/hyg-fact/5000/5546.html
(remember, not all HWM rayon is microfiber)

Information on various types of rayon:
http://ohioline.ag.ohio-state.edu/hyg-fact/5000/5538.html

Listing of 1000 fabric stores:
http://www.fabshopnet.com/

Descriptions of the coming season's new fabrics:
(click on Voluptuous, Vitality and Asperity for more)
http://www.onlinetextilenews.com/moda00/index.htm

Source for Eyelet lace:
http://www.cheeplace.com

Listing of over 300 fabric sites and other sites related to sewing:
http://www.lyonslpgas.com/sewscape/

Japanese Antiques, ceremonial gowns:
http://www.yokodana.com/catalog/kimono.htm

Vintage Pattern Lending Library:
http://www.vpll.org

Hawaiian Quilts:
Included in this web site is information about the history of Hawaiian quilts and fabric.
http://www.hawaiian-quilts.com/

Beautiful fabrics and laces:
http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/

Sew Sassy Fabrics:
http://www.sewsassy.com/

Sewsational:
http://store.yahoo.com/sewsational/index.html

Phoenix Textiles:
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/index.html

Pantone has Spring Color information:
http://www.pantone.com/aquapage.asp
. Just click on "fashion trends"

Colored Canvas:
Try Rose Brand Fabrics Canvas
http://www.rosebrand.com/fabrics/canvas.htm

The Quilt Connection:
http://www.quiltconn.com/

The Craft Connection:
http://www.craftconn.com/default.htm



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The Sewing Room and Kim Marquez are in No Way associated, affiliated, or paid in any way by any Stores or Institutions mentioned in these Newsletters. They are mentioned as matters of interest to the sewing and crafting public only.