Athens, Greece, the Greek Islands and Ephesus, Turkey have been on Kathy’s travel wish list for a long time. I had been to Athens, a few small Greek Islands and Istanbul, Turkey about 30 years ago, but when Kathy found a 12-night cruise that included those places, three stops in Ukraine, one stop in Bulgaria and a chance to see Ephesus, one of the greatest Greco-Roman cities, it didn’t take much convincing to get me to sign up for this trip. Kathy found great deals on airfare and a cruise on Celebrity Cruises. Then we just had to decide which shore excursions we wanted to take.

We drove to San Francisco and stayed overnight at a hotel near the airport that allows you to park your car for no extra charge for up to two weeks. This beat having to drive to San Francisco at 2:30 a.m. to catch our flight at 7:07 a.m. and pay for parking at the airport.

We arrived in Newark, New Jersey in time to make our connecting flight to Istanbul, Turkey. We were waiting for the boarding call when United announced that there was a mechanical problem that would ground our plane and we would have to wait for another plane arriving from London. Just a few weeks prior, Celebrity moved our boarding time up two hours so we were concerned that we wouldn’t arrive in time, but we ended up boarding the ship with 10 minutes to spare.

That night, we looked out our cabin window and there was a ferry pulling up to our ship which had been underway for a few hours. Apparently, about 50 people missed the boarding time due to late flights but were still able to make the cruise.

We found out that those who got to the cruise port in the morning had to wait several hours to board the ship as there was a norovirus outbreak on the previous cruise and the ship was being sterilized. They were taking extra precautions on our cruise, the main ones being taken in the buffet. They blocked off the food lines with clear wrap so no one could help themselves. That combined with the fact that Celebrity no longer provides trays in the buffet made getting your food to your table a little bit of a hassle, but worth it to me if it prevented spreading viruses. They also sprayed and wiped down the tables and chairs after each person sitting at them was finished with their meals. And finally, they had employees stationed at the entrances to the buffet with hand sanitizer so they made sure everyone got their hands sanitized.

The first day was at sea. The weather was beautiful and the Black Sea was calm. It reminded me of cruising the Caribbean but without the humidity. We mostly relaxed by the pool. At one point, we stood at the aft watching our wake when we saw a group of dolphins jumping out of the water following the ship just to the side of the wake. These dolphins had gray, black and white colors. Of course, this was one time we didn’t have our cameras to capture the action.

The next day, we arrived in Sevastopol, Ukraine located on the Crimean Peninsula. Before its independence in 1991, Ukraine was part of the Russian Empire and later the Soviet Union. The Soviets had their largest naval base here and today, Ukraine still allows the Russian navy to share the port with their own navy.

I’m a military history buff so I was really looking forward to seeing first hand some of the military sites in this area of Ukraine. We booked a shore excursion which took us to the Sapoune Ridge (Lord Raglan’s View) overlooking the Balaclava Valley. This valley is where the famous “Charge of the Light Brigade” took place in the Battle of Balaclava on October 25, 1854 during the Crimean war.

We first stopped at the overlook and then drove down into the valley to see two monuments and memorials to the battles that took place there. The Crimean War pitted the Russians against the British, French, Ottomans and Sardinians. This is the war where Florence Nightingale became famous as a nurse tending to the wounded and improving sanitary conditions.

From the Balaclava Valley, we drove to the town of Balaclava which is located right on a protected inlet. Balaclava was a “closed town” during the Cold War, and the military personnel who worked and lived there couldn’t even tell their families where they were. The mountains there have huge hollow caves where the Soviets created secret submarine bases during the Cold War. In fact, you can now tour one of those bases but we could only see the entrance from across the water on our tour.

We had some time after the tour before we had to be back on board our ship so Kathy and I walked around Sevastopol. They have a nice promenade along the Black Sea and we saw several war memorials and monuments. I can understand why Russia and the Soviet Union built up their military over the years as they have been attacked on all sides by Germany, France (under Napoleon I), Turkey and Japan to name a few. We watched the changing of the guard at a big “Great Patriotic War” (WW II) memorial. I thought the “soldiers” weren’t quite as sharp as most I’ve seen and then later learned they are actually high school students.

This was the only port where we had to take a tender from the ship. The ride in wasn’t too bad but the swells got larger during the day and the ride back to the ship was wild. Getting out of the tender was a real adventure! We later learned that one passenger cut his head and another hurt his arm while getting in or out of the tender.

Our next port the following day was Yalta. In the 19th century, Yalta became a fashionable resort for the Russian aristocracy and gentry. During the 20th century, Yalta was the principal holiday resort of the Soviet Union. On February 11-14, 1945, the Yalta Conference took place here. This conference was where Winston Churchill, Franklin Roosevelt and Josef Stalin met to decide the fate of post-WW II Europe. We booked a shore excursion that took us to two palaces which played a part in the conference.

The first palace we saw was the Vorontsov Palace located in nearby Alupka. It was built for Russia’s richest man of the 19th century, Prince Mikhail Semyonovich Vorontsov and completed in 1844. It was designed in a blend of late English Tudor revival style, elements of Scottish Baronial, Moorish Revival, Gothic Revival architecture and Islamic architecture. The palace is surrounded by a garden and a 99 acre park that affords splendid views of the Black Sea.

Four years after the October Revolution, in 1921, Vorontsov Palace was nationalized, after which it was converted into a museum. When Germany invaded Russia in 1941, most of the museum's exhibits were evacuated for safety from the palace. However, some 537 artistic and graphics exhibits, 360 pieces of the building's decor, sets of unique furniture, and a series of historic books were stolen by occupying German forces, amounting to a loss of five million rubles at the time.

During the war, Adolf Hitler presented the palace as a reward to Field Marshal Erich von Manstein, who made it his personal headquarters. Originally, the Germans planned to dynamite the palace before fleeing, but the rapid advance of the Separate Coastal Army and supporting Yalta partisan groups during the Crimean Offensive saved the palace from destruction.

Just before the Yalta Conference, workers restored the palace and replanted the garden so Winston Churchill and his British delegation could reside there during the conference. Churchill thought highly of the palace's English-inspired architectural style and loved the garden’s Medici lions. He asked Stalin if he could take the lions home but Stalin denied his request.

The other palace we saw on the tour was the Livadia Palace built in 1911 in Italian Renaissance style. This was the summer residence of the last Russian Tsar, Nicholas II and the actual site of the Yalta Conference. Because Roosevelt was crippled from polio and could not travel easily, he and the American delegation stayed in this palace during the conference. We saw a replica of the conference table (the original had been destroyed), the large room where the conference took place and the courtyard where the famous photo of the “Big Three” leaders was taken.

We also had a “photo op” stop on the tour to see the Swallow’s Nest Castle built by Baron von Steingel, a Baltic German noble in 1912. The Neo-gothic style castle sits on the Aurora Cliff 130 feet (40 m) above the Black Sea. It is probably the most famous and photographed site in the Crimea.

Our next port was Odessa where we would stay overnight and have almost two full days there. My grandmother was born in Odessa in 1899 when it was part of the Russian Empire and later immigrated to the United States in 1911. Because of that fact, Odessa has been on my travel list for some time. I was hoping maybe I could even find out more information about my grandmother and other relatives while there so I booked a Jewish History tour that included a stop at the Museum of History of Odessa Jews. Unfortunately, both the tour guide and museum director were unable to help me find information on my relatives.

The first thing we noticed while in port was the famous Potemkin Stairs constructed between 1837 and 1841 which lead from the port to the city. Erosion eventually destroyed the stairs so in 1933 the original sandstone was replaced by rose-grey granite, and the landings were covered with asphalt. Eight steps were lost under the sand when the port was being extended, reducing the number of steps to 192, with ten landings. There is an optical illusion built into the design of the stairs: a person looking down the stairs sees only the landings, and the steps are invisible, but a person looking up from the bottom sees only steps, and the landings are invisible.

The stairs were made famous in Sergei Eisenstein's 1925 silent film The Battleship Potemkin in a scene where the Tsar’s troops fire on civilians trying to flee down the stairs. I have the DVD of that film and it’s considered one of the greatest silent films ever produced.

While I was on the Jewish Heritage tour, Kathy walked around the city on her own. After my tour was through, we walked through the city again climbing the stairs so Kathy really got her cardio in for that day. Many of the buildings in Odessa remind me of the beautiful buildings of Paris, Prague or Budapest. The Opera and Ballet Theater is famous but we only saw the exterior. We walked to a nice park and went in a multi-story shopping mall.

Before we left home and were looking over shore excursion options, Kathy thought the Odessa catacombs tour looked interesting. I’m glad she suggested it as that tour turned out to be very interesting indeed.

The Odessa Catacombs are a 1,500 mile (2,414 km) network of tunnels that consist of three levels up to 197 feet (60 m) below the surface, stretching out under the city of Odessa and the surrounding region. The majority of the catacombs are the result of limestone mining begun in the 18th century. Gangsters hiding from the Tsar in the late 19th century, Bolsheviks a decade after them and Soviet partisans hiding from the Germans during WW II all utilized the catacombs. There are over 1,000 entrances and it is legal though not recommended to explore the catacombs. Some modern explorers have become lost and died down there. Our tour took us to a town called Nerubaiskoe where the official tourist section and adjoining Museum of Partisan Glory are located.

After WW II, Odessa was the first city awarded "Hero Status" by Stalin. Along the front there, the Soviets not only halted the Axis offensive, but caused it to retreat for a time. After 73 days, Odessa finally fell. Trapped between the Germans and the sea, Soviet soldiers and partisans descended into the catacombs to fight the Germans from there. Our guide told us many interesting stories of Soviet heroism and German tactics in trying to flush partisans out. There were many artifacts displayed in the catacombs such as machine guns, molotov cocktails and everyday living utensils. One interesting picture painted on the wall showed Hitler asking a German soldier where he was wounded and the soldier replied “in the Odessa Catacombs”.

The tour continued back in Odessa where we stopped in Shevchenko Park to see the changing of the guard (again, high school students) at the Unknown Sailor Memorial.

We had very good weather – mostly sunny and fairly warm for our three stops on the Crimean Peninsula and found out we were lucky. Even though they normally have an “Indian Summer” there in October, the cruise just before ours experienced some nasty weather during these stops including rain, wind and even a little snow.

From Odessa, we sailed to Burgas, Bulgaria, another Black Sea Resort. A few years prior, we visited another city on the Black Sea in Bulgaria called Varna. It was at the end of a Danube River cruise from Budapest to the Black Sea. I never thought we would be back in Bulgaria again but enjoyed the four sights our shore excursion included on this cruise.

The first stop was the St. George monastery in the town of Pomorie. In the monastery we saw the Eastern Orthodox Church, a small well spouting curative water and a distillery where the monks were making some kind of very strong moonshine.

The next stop was the Pomorie Salt Museum where we listened to the museum guide talk about how the salt is extracted from the Black Sea. He didn’t speak English so our tour guide translated and it always amazes me how someone can translate as fast and as well as she did.

Also near Pomorie, we stopped at the “Beehive Tomb” which is actually a Thracian Cult building built in the 2nd or 3rd century AD. It is believed that it had served as a mausoleum of a rich family, in which religious pagan rituals had been performed. The tomb consists of a 72 foot (22 m) long corridor and a round chamber with a diameter of 38 feet (11.6 m) and a height of 18 feet (5.5 m). It was constructed of stone and bricks. The coolest feature is the hollow column with a diameter of 10.8 feet (3.3 m) in its center. As the column rises toward the ceiling, it broadens in diameter and merges with the external wall. It’s sort of like a reverse dome and I’ve never seen anything like it in all the ancient sites I’ve visited.

Our final stop on the tour was the old town of Nessebar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Originally a Thracian settlement, over the centuries, the town was colonized by Greeks, Romans and Turks. The town was originally situated on an island but was later linked to the mainland with a man-made causeway. We did a walking tour of the very picturesque town whose buildings have a distinct architectural style. We stopped in several 13th and 14th century Eastern Orthodox churches whose walls are covered in very old religious paintings.

The next day was “at sea” sailing south through the Bosphorus Strait, past Istanbul through the Marmara Sea and finally into the Aegean Sea. Our next destination was the Greek Island of Mykonos but before we get there, I’ll describe our ship, the Constellation.

Kathy and I have cruised on several different cruise lines but this was our first cruise on Celebrity. We had both heard that Celebrity was a little bit nicer than many of the other cruise lines. We found the food and amenities on the Constellation were very good but not really any better than the other ships we’ve been on. It was launched in 2002 and I think it had one renovation since then. It’s about a medium to large-sized ship compared to most other cruise ships sailing today with a gross register tonnage of 91,000. It can hold up to 2,100 passengers.

On the first “at sea” day, I was talking to a woman in the spa and told her Kathy and I had cruised with Royal Caribbean, NCL, Carnival, Holland America and Princess but this was our first cruise with Celebrity. She said she would never cruise on those cruise lines implying they were inferior to Celebrity. And another woman sitting in the spa said our ship was one of the older ships in the Celebrity fleet and was not as nice as the others. She also complained that her waiter demanded that she be at her table on time for dinner. Oh well, I guess you can only please some of the people some of the time.

On our last several cruises, we’ve chosen to use the anytime dining option for dinner in the dining room (we always eat breakfast in the buffet and lunch in the buffet or by the pool). We like this option because we can get a table for two or sit with 2, 4, or 6 other people if we choose to do so. We also don’t like to be on a strict schedule while on vacation. Some people still like the set time dining option and like to sit with the same people the entire cruise (this used to be the only dining procedure on cruises).

We enjoy meeting other people during meals sometimes but would not want to get stuck always having to eat with someone you didn’t particularly care to listen to. When we did sit with others, most of the people were from Europe, mainly England or Ireland and we enjoyed their company. At one dinner however, someone mentioned our Cruise Director Alejandro who was from Argentina and the English woman sitting next to me suddenly got upset. Apparently, the Cruise Director said something she took extreme exception to because “England and Argentina were at war not that long ago”. I was curious what he could have said that made her so upset but I kept my mouth shut.

We thought the show troop was a bit better than most we have seen on other cruises. They put on three music and dance production shows. They also performed at some of the parties where their involvement would encourage the guests to get up and dance and then they would eventually disappear.

The other entertainers were all good. There were no comedians on this cruise which is unusual (we’ve heard all the jokes about the super suction commodes in the cabins) but one of the singers was actually pretty funny between songs.

We like to play the trivia games that are popular on all the cruises. On this cruise, we actually won two of them. The prizes are usually small but it’s fun trying to see if we can beat some of the other teams. We usually do best with the sports and music trivia.

Since this was a 12-night cruise, they had three formal nights which was one two many for me. We enjoy dressing up one or two nights at most and usually get a formal portrait from one of the many photographers on hand during the formal nights.

The food was very good but seemed no better or worse than food on the other cruises. I find it interesting that some people are loyal to only one cruise line. I like variety and have found that some cruise lines do some things better than others but generally, they are all similar. We also choose cruises for the destinations rather than for the ships. Maybe someday, we will cruise on one of the premier cruise lines like Oceania, Azamara, Seabourn or Crystal.

Our next destination was Mykonos, Greece located in the Aegean Sea between Greece and Turkey. Mykonos along with Rhodes and Santorini are probably the most popular of the hundreds of Greek Isles to visit. This was the only port where we did not schedule a shore excursion. The weather here was perfect – hot and not a cloud in the sky. We took a short shuttle bus ride into the town which is also named Mykonos. The whole town is like one big picture postcard. Almost all the buildings are white with red roofs and their doors and stairs are painted different colors.

Most of the streets are only wide enough to walk through. The streets are also laid out in a very helter skelter fashion and this was done to confuse any enemy that dared attack the town. We weren’t the enemy but we definitely were confused walking around. We had a map and managed to find the famous windmills up on a hill and a few churches but that was about it. So we just wandered around aimlessly and enjoyed the sights.

Before our stop in Mykonos, Kathy attended a briefing aboard the ship and they mentioned there was a small chance we may see pelicans which are one of the symbols of the island. I was looking at postcards at one shop when I looked up and saw a huge pelican walking straight toward me. I guess we were lucky to see one up close and personal.

From Mykonos, we sailed to Piraeus, Greece which is the port for Athens. We booked a shore excursion that included a stop at the Panathenaic Stadium which was used in the first modern Olympics in 1896, the New Acropolis Museum, a walk on the Acropolis, a walk though a shopping street (where a vendor liked my Nike shoes and told me California and America are great), a Greek lunch and a driving tour of the more modern part of the city.

Sometimes timing is everything. Our tour guide took us though the museum which was definitely worth the visit but just as we were leaving, the wind started gusting and it started raining hard. Since it wasn’t raining when we arrived at the museum, we left our rain gear and umbrellas on the bus. We made a mad dash to the bus and got pretty wet. All part of the adventure!

When I was last in Athens about 30 years ago, I remember seeing a museum but the New Acropolis Museum is only four years old. It is located only 310 yards (280 m) from the Parthenon and is a fantastic museum. It is actually built over the ruins of ancient Athens and you can see the rooms that have been exposed by archaeologists under glass right before the main entrance and even inside the museum. Inside, you can see over 4,000 artifacts including surviving Parthenon friezes and the original Caryatids (statues of maidens that support the roof of the Erechtheion). Our guide said the New Acropolis Museum was voted the best museum in the world or something like that and I believe it!

As we climbed up the entrance of the Acropolis, it was still raining but only lightly and we had our umbrellas. We did have to watch our steps as there were lots of uneven steps and the rain made some areas slippery. One of the men in our tour group actually fell sustaining some cuts and scrapes but he was a trooper and kept going. The rainy weather didn’t stop us from marveling at the Propylaea, Temple of Athena Nike, Erechtheion, Parthenon and all the other ruins located on top of the Acropolis.

The Parthenon, a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena was completed in 438 BC and was basically intact until 1687. The Ottomans who were at war with the Venetians at the time were storing ammunition inside the Parthenon. The Venetians got lucky (or unlucky for the Parthenon) and hit the roof with a cannonball. The cannonball penetrated the roof and fell on the ammunition causing explosions that heavily damaged the building.

The ravages of time and religious fervor caused great damage to the 92 metopes (carvings depicting Greek historical events) on the Parthenon. Then between 1801 and 1805, Lord Elgin, the British ambassador to the Ottoman Empire had most of the remaining sculptures of both pediments and most of the 160 meter-long running frieze removed and shipped them to the England where they ended up in the British Museum in London. The Greek government has been trying to get them back for years to no avail. I saw them in the British Museum and agree that they should be returned Greece and displayed in the New Acropolis Museum.

So the once awesome Parthenon is now just a shell of what it once was. There is ongoing restoration and shoring to keep what is left from collapsing even more. You can see a crane set up inside the Parthenon and other equipment lying around the site. But even with all those distractions, you can still see that the Parthenon was a spectacular and beautiful building.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time to take it all in but we were able to walk all around and get different views of all the ruins on the Acropolis. From the top of this high plateau overlooking the city, we could also see the Temple of Apollo and the Temple of Hephaestus which is the best preserved temple in Athens.

Our final stop before returning to Istanbul was Kusadasi, Turkey where we took a shore excursion to three major Greco-Roman sites: Miletus, Didyma and Ephesus.

In antiquity Miletus possessed a harbor at the southern entry of a large bay. Over the centuries the gulf silted up with alluvium carried by the Meander River. We explored the large theater there originally built by the Greeks in the 4th century BC to seat 5,000 people. It was later expanded by the Romans increasing the capacity to 20,000. As I wandered through the corridors behind the seats, I could imagine hot dog and tee shirt vendors but they probably didn’t have those back then.

Driving away from the city of Miletus, we came upon a small museum. Our guide was surprised to learn that it just recently opened and we took some time to view its exhibits. I especially liked a large collection of ancient coins on display as I have a few ancient Greek and Roman coins in my own collection.

After a nice lunch in Didyma, we drove a short distance to the Temple of Apollo. The first temple on this site was built at the end of the 8th century BC. The temple that exists today was destroyed by war and earthquakes and rebuilt several times but was never completed. Had it been completed, it would have been the largest temple in the world. The ruins are still very impressive.

The pièce de résistance of the tour was the city of Ephesus, one of the greatest Greco-Roman city ruins anywhere. It was built by the Greeks in the 10th century BC and came under the control of the Roman Republic in 129 BC. The city was famed for the Temple of Artemis (Diana) completed around 550 BC, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In 268 AD, it was destroyed or damaged in a raid by the Goths and now only a single re-erected column remains.

Many famous people are associated with Ephesus. After Alexander the Great defeated the Persian forces at the Battle of Granicus in 334 BC, he was greeted warmly when he entered Ephesus in triumph. In 33 BC, Antony & Cleopatra moved from Alexandria, Egypt to Ephesus to gather a fleet of ships and warriors to attack Rome and take over the Roman Empire. The Apostle John brought the Virgin Mary who had been entrusted to his care by Jesus to Ephesus sometime around 40 AD. It is believed Mary was secretly buried there by John. The Apostle Paul was active in Ephesus from 52 to 55 AD. He preached to the Ephesians and wrote the bulk of his correspondence there.

Since we got a late start on the all-day tour because we had to wait for another ship to dock and we spent the extra time at the Miletus Museum, we were concerned that we would be rushed through our walking tour of Ephesus. Our guide assured us that we would have at least 90 minutes there and we did. We were happy we got to spend the time in Ephesus and had to skip the carpet factory tour that always seems to be included in these tours. While I could spend all day in Ephesus to really take it all in, we did see and learn quite a lot about this fascinating city in the time we had.

We walked from one end of the city to the other while our guide talked about some of the main buildings, monuments, etc. including the Odeon, baths, Hadrian’s Temple, fountains, a public lavatory and the famous Library of Celsus, the façade of which has been carefully reconstructed from all original pieces. Our guide told us that a “Love House” - a brothel for married men was located across from the library and had a tunnel that connected the two buildings. It gave a whole new meaning to “Honey, I’m going to the library to read”.

We passed a group of buildings that were covered with tents and had a separate admission fee. These buildings were multi-story houses for the wealthy where you can still see frescoes on the walls, glass mosaics and mosaic tile floors. They had clean water and sewage pipes, lavatories, fountains and underfloor heating systems. If we would have had time, I’m sure these houses would have been worth seeing. We did see some nice mosaic tile floors on one of the stoas (covered public walkways).

Toward the end of our walk, we came to the Arkadiane – a grand boulevard leading into the city from the harbor (which was also closer to the city in antiquity) where Antony and Cleopatra made their entrance into Ephesus. The Arkadiane dead ends at the Grand Theater which after expansion by the Romans, could seat an estimated 24,000 people. It is believed to be the largest outdoor theater in the ancient world. It was used by the Greeks for plays and assemblies and later during the Roman Imperial era, gladiators fought there. Elton John even performed a concert there in 2001.

Since I had seen the Acropolis in Athens before, this tour of three great Greco-Roman sites was the highlight of the trip for me and I believe for Kathy too. It started to lightly rain just as we got to the entrance of Ephesus but only rained for about 15 minutes before blue sky and scattered white clouds helped create some nice backgrounds for our photos.

While Greek architecture is beautiful, I really marvel at the later Roman architecture and engineering found throughout all the area Rome once controlled. You can see similar buildings, theaters, stadiums, arches, aqueducts, etc. that are found in Italy all the way from Great Britain to Germany to Asia Minor to Northern Africa. This trip has rekindled my interest in seeing other Roman sites especially Pompeii and Herculaneum which were uniquely preserved due to the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD.

We ended the cruise back where we started in Istanbul, Turkey, the only major city located in Europe and Asia. We were docked overnight there and had the better part of a day to explore this great city once known as Constantinople, capital of the Holy Roman Empire. We happened to be there during a festival during which many of the major sites such as the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace were closed. The famous Blue Mosque would be open but we would have had to visit it in between one of the five prayer times during the day. I had been to all these sites before and they were not “must see” places on Kathy’s list so we decided to walk a few miles from our ship to just across the Galata Bridge and see the sites and people along the way.

I recommend this cruise or seeing the places we saw to all who have an interest in ancient and/or military history. While there is currently political unrest in Ukraine, we did not encounter any problems there. We were far away from the Turkey-Syria border where there is a huge Syrian refugee problem, and while the Turks and Greeks are not exactly on friendly terms with each other, the people we met in both of those countries were friendly and hospitable to us.

After a 10.5 hour flight from Istanbul to Toronto, Canada, a five hour flight from Toronto to San Francisco, and finally a two hour drive arriving home at 2:00 a.m. local time, Kathy and I both suffered from severe jet lag. Mine was the worst I ever remember, lasting for about three days. However, that was a small price to pay for a fantastic journey!

Kathy and I each took over 800 photos on this trip and I took almost an hour of video. To view 100 more photos of this trip, click on the forward (right) arrow below each photo.

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