By Lou Padgug
| By Lou Padgug |
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When I tell people how many countries I have been to, they often ask me what is my favorite country or trip. I always reply that it’s too hard to answer that as each country is special in its own way. That’s why I never get tired of traveling because each place I visit is new and different. After all my travels though, I have decided that my favorite place on earth is just 135 miles from my home: Yosemite National Park.
Since my parents were not into outdoor activities such as hiking or camping, I was not exposed to those activities until I joined the Boy Scouts at age 11. I remember going on many weekend camping trips in the Boy Scouts including one campout in the snow. I also went to a one week camp called Harvey West in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and remember it got pretty miserable. We had rain, sleet and snow and ended up sleeping in a large building as our tents did not stand up to the weather. I also remember having to flip and right my row boat fully clothed in the freezing water to earn my one and only merit badge in rowing. I guess I had a good time and it must have toughened me up but I remember being totally exhausted when I got home.
After seeing much of Europe while stationed in Germany, I started to appreciate nature more. I went on several Volksmarches through the countryside of Germany and really enjoyed these hikes (and the German beer afterward). After returning to California, I decided I had seen more of the world than my home state and it was time to check out some of the many scenic places located in California. Finally, in 1980, I visited Yosemite National Park for the first time.
“I have seen persons of emotional temperament stand with tearful eyes, spellbound and dumb with awe, as they got their first view of the Valley from Inspiration Point, overwhelmed in the sudden presence of the unspeakable, stupendous grandeur.”
– Galen Clark, guardian of the Yosemite Grant
So what’s so special about Yosemite? Let me start with Yosemite Valley. I have seen many spectacular landscapes all over the world but Yosemite Valley is unique. Its glacier-carved granite walls are truly awe-inspiring and it reminds me of a huge outdoor cathedral. Half Dome and El Capitan are two of the most famous landmarks in the Valley but there are so many more features to behold. The Merced River flows through the wildflower-covered meadows sometimes flooding in the spring. There are numerous waterfalls that cascade over the polished granite cliffs. Yosemite Falls at 2,420’ (739 m) is the highest waterfall in North America and the sixth highest waterfall in the world.
To the north, Hetch Hetchy Valley was once as magnificent as Yosemite Valley before it was dammed and made into a reservoir for water for the city of San Francisco. John Muir fought until his dying day to stop the building of the dam but unfortunately politics won out. There has been a movement for many years to tear down the dam and return Hetch Hetchy Valley to its original splendor (that would take about a hundred years). But for now the water needs of San Francisco has priority.
In the south area of the park, there is the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoia redwood trees. These largest living things on earth can live for thousands of years and their trunks can reach over 25’ (2.4 m) thick. These trees only grow in a few places on earth.
In the summer, you can drive completely through the park on Tioga Road which goes through Tuolumne Meadows. This area is much higher in elevation than Yosemite Valley. The Tioga Pass entrance at the east end is 9,945’ (3,031 m). Another road only open in the summer leads you up to Glacier Point 7,214’ (2,199 m), for the most spectacular view of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, El Capitan and many waterfalls.
“It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter.”
- John Muir
As of this writing, I have been to Yosemite eight times. I’ve gone to Yosemite just for the day, stayed overnight in a rustic cabin, and stayed at the classic Victorian Wawona Hotel built in 1876 and designated a National Historic Landmark. I’ve stayed at the Yosemite Lodge at the Falls where you can sit on the porch and gaze at the upper Yosemite Fall. I’ve seen the famous four-star Ahwahnee Hotel, also a National Historic Landmark opened in 1927. The interior design of the Ahwahnee mixes Art Deco and Native American art. The rock and wood exterior was designed to blend in with the granite walls towering over it. I haven’t stayed there (rooms are over $450 per night) but Kathy and I recently had dinner in its huge dining room which seats 350 people.
There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails in the park. I have hiked to Mirror Lake where you can see the reflection of Half Dome. Kathy and I have hiked halfway to the top of Yosemite Falls and part of the way around Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. The longest hike Kathy and I completed was from Glacier Point to Yosemite Valley passing by Illilouette Fall and then Nevada and Vernal Falls on the John Muir trail. That was an 8.2 mile (13.2 km) hike in 100°F (37.8°C) heat so it was nice to get soaked by the mist of the falls on the “Mist Trail”.
At the other extreme, Kathy and I recently tried snowshoeing for the first time at the Badger Pass Ski Area 7,300’ (2,225 m). It was 37°F (2.8°C) and the snow that we walked on was 8’ (2.4 m) deep in some areas. This was the first time we had been to Yosemite in the winter. It snowed the night before we arrived turning the park into a winter wonderland.
After recently climbing Mount St. Helens, I’m thinking of trying the Half Dome climb someday. It is 17 miles (27.4 km) round trip from the Valley floor. They have wood steps and cables installed on the back of the dome as it is so steep. The elevation gain is 4,800’ (1,463 m) and it takes approximately 10-12 hours if you want to do it all in one day. I’ll leave the sheer face to the rock climbers!
UPDATE: In June, 2012, I attempted to climb Half Dome. First Half Dome Climb I made it all the way to Sub Dome but turned back due to inclement weather which can be very dangerous at that altitude.
UPDATE: For my second attempt in September, 2015, I had great weather and I made it to the top. Second Half Dome Climb.
And of course, Yosemite offers endless photographic opportunities. The light and weather is constantly changing so no two photos are ever alike. The great nature photographer Ansel Adams said it best:
“Yosemite Valley, to me, is always a surprise, a glitter of green and golden wonder in a vast edifice of stone and space.”
I have applied to work as a temporary Park Ranger in several National Parks in the U.S. including Yosemite. These positions generally last from May through September. I don’t need a job at this point in my life but just think it would be great to lead hikes, give campfire talks or just give out information at an incredible “office” like Yosemite.
UPDATE: I was fortunate to be hired as a temporary Park Ranger at John Muir National Historic site in Martinez, California in August-October, 2010 and August-September 2011 - my favorite job ever! I live about 70 miles from Martinez and if I lived much closer, I'd volunteer there.
Finally, there is one more indication that Yosemite is my favorite place on earth. Since 1982, I have had Yosemite National Park license plates on my car. I pay extra fees each year for these plates and the extra funds go to maintaining and preserving Yosemite for future generations. I feel it’s a worthwhile cause!
Here's a 8 1/2 minute slide show I put together from several of my trips to Yosemite over the years.
Here's a one minute hi-def video I took of Yosemite Valley from the shore of the Merced River:
To view 24 of my Yosemite photos, click on the right button below each photo.