CalculationsStrut for Gun-Ho pistol case or box
- Blowback vs Locked breech (Text file).
- Gov't model dynamics (Text file).
- Gov't model internal ballistics (Text file).
- Cartridge case springback (Text file).
- Friction of case walls against chamber walls (Text file).
- Compression Spring constant calculator (Excel file).
- Torsion Spring constant calculator (Excel file).
- Blowback cyclic rate & striker time (Excel file).
- Leaf spring calculator (Excel file).
- Govt Mod recoil spring calculator (Excel file).
- Short-distance pistol bullet drop approx. (Excel file).
About 15 years ago I bought a Gun-Ho box. I didn't like the idea of the separate, big, spring clamp others were using to keep their pistol boxes open, so I designed a strut that stays with the box. I've had zero problems with the strut over that period of time, so I thought I'd share it. The strut is thick on one side so that it rotates by gravity into place. To release it, just push in. The upper cantilever is thinned out to make it springy in case the box cover gets bumped. You can connect the strut to the upper cantilever using either a standard .250 shoulder screw or you can make a bushing for a pivot. Ditto the lower cantilever. I made aluminum bronze bushings, but obviously virtually any material will do. The first PDF below gives the rough dimensions of the strut parts. Some people ask where the strut disappears to. That's what the second PDF shows. As you can see from the frames in the center of the page, the end of the strut nearly runs into the upper rib on the sidewall of the pistol box. You might consider changing some dimensions if you think that could be a problem on your box. I recommend putting the strut on the side of the box which is away from you when you are at your shooting bench. That will keep you from accidentally bumping it in and causing the lid to fall down on you. You could also redesign the strut so you have to pull it out to release it.
Civil War revolvers
- Layout of gun box and strut with some dimensions (jpeg file).
- Frames of strut motion (jpeg file).
During the Civil War, the most common Union revolver was the 1860 Colt army, the next most common was the Remington New army, and the next most common was the Starr single action army. There were many other makes and models used in lesser quantities. Below are some data from Norm Flayderman's guide and from various other sources. Colt Model 1851 Navy revolver 36 cal manufactured 1850-1873 ~215,000 made Colt Model 1860 Army revolver 44 cal manufactured 1860-1873 ~200,000 made Remington New Model Army revolver 44 cal manufactured 1863-1875 (but 1858 patent line on barrel) ~122,000 made Starr Single Action 1863 Army revolver 44 cal 1863-1865 ~32,000 made The Starr Arms Co. Double Action 1858 Army revolver preceded the 1863, but was not reliable and so was not suitable for military use. The advantage of the Colts was that they were relatively immune to fouling of the works due to a better cylinder arbor. The Remington was more accurate and it was easier to change a cylinder if a spare charged cylinder was on hand. They were also much cheaper for the government to buy than the Colts. The Starr had strength and mechanical reliability problems, but had an easy system for changing cylinders. The Starr was not alone in strength problems as some early Colt revolvers also had a tendency to burst. An example would be the model 1860 which was a 44 caliber revolver designed on a small frame. The problem was mostly with the steels of time. It is hard to imagine now that there was a time when steel made in the US and other countries was not flawless as it is now. At that time, only English steel was made well enough for reliable guns.Useful Civil War revolver links Single-shot Percussion Pistols