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A small bird with jet-black feathers and a crimson breast glides onto a nearby tree limb and perches close by as if to join the circle of conversation. "Look," Kilmer says with a laugh. "It's almost like Ireland. I mean, how could you conjure up leprechauns until you're in Ireland? Once you're there, it makes sense. You feel as though you've just seen something down low, like an elf. There's that same thing here -- it's kind of impish."

Val Kilmer, Polo Magazine, 1999