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Review by Rocky 

ATS FAQ

Fun Supply FAQ

I pull the trigger and nothing happens.

1. Make sure that the selector switch is in the semi or full auto mode (if you are equipped with one) 

2. Verify that you have a full tank of air. And if you are using an on/off valve, double check that it is open. 

3. If you are running the gun remote, make sure that the check valve is in the open state. Trust me, this may sound stupid, but once I forgot even this simple task. 

4. Lower the clip and then hit the reset switch located on the right side of the gun. 

5. Check the clip, there might be some bent pins. Carefully bend them back so that they stick out perpendicular to the chain they are welded to.
 

1. Unscrew the barrel and remove the silver breech sizer. Take out one of your paintballs and push it into the sizer. Is it too tight? If it is, then try the other breech sizers to get a good fit. The sizer shouldn’t be too tight (or it will break the balls) or too loose (you may end up with balls rolling down the end of the barrel). 

2. Make sure you are using fresh paint. RP Scherers are pretty good and they hold up pretty well if you store them correctly. Just remember to use some form of desiccant. 

3. Check the chain drive in the clip. Just remember that the little pins should not stick up at the top when you have turned the indexer switch in a detent position. The pins should fall on either side of the path of travel at the top of the clip. 

A good starting point for velocity adjustment is around 8 or 9 turns up from minimum adjustment.  This should result in a velocity range of approximately 270-285 feet per second.  Choose the appropriate ball retainer sleeve for the paint you are using.  You want a snug fit but not so tight that you dent the balls when pushing them through the retainer with your fingertip or so loose that they drop right through the retainer sleeve.  There ar five sizers to choose from .  If the velocity is still low, then disassemble the gun (as described in the video) and remove the hammer and bolt assemblies.  Look at the rubber end of the bolt to be sure that the bolt seal is still on the bolt.  Check the hammer tube for burrs or gummy paint residue that would keep the bolt from sliding freely on the hammer tube.  Clean, lubricate and reinstall hammer and bolt and test.
 
You could also try changing the spring in the hammer.  Go to your local pball store and get a Nelson spring kit.  Start off with the yellow spring and see if that helps with your velocity problems. If that doesn't do the trick, try a stiffer spring.  The logic is that if there is a stronger spring that hits the main valve, it will let more gas out and thus will propel the balls much faster.  Just a little stiffer spring can just do the trick.

This is normal, so do not become alarmed. It is an exhaust port that vents the air out the rear. My cocker also does the same thing. When you fire the gun, it shoots out a little bit of air out the 4-way valve, although it isn’t as pronounced as the TS-1. The reason why you really feel the exhaust air coming out of the TS1 is due to the small hole in which the gas comes out of.

1. This usually happens when you are cycling the gun very fast, especially when going full auto. 

2. Try not to connect a tank directly to the rear ASA, the angle of the connection isn’t that pronounced and sometimes, you end up flooding the regulator with liquid CO2. When this happens, the gun will start sputtering a bit and shoot out clouds of CO2 out the rear. When this happens, point the gun up and cycle a few rounds. After a few seconds, the regulator should warm up enough so that it stops sputtering. 

3. There are several remedies that you can try to alleviate the dreaded liquid problem. You can run the gun with a remote tank, use an expansion chamber, run the gun in a bottom line position, and/or use a regulator too. I have found some luck with my rig. I am currently running the gun bottomline style with an anti-syphon tank connected directly to the bottomline mounted Palmer’s Stabilizer Regulator. I have already shot a full 20 oz. tank and have not been able to freeze the regulator on the gun.
 

1. I wouldn’t say that it is necessarily bad that it starts to ice a little, but having a cold regulator does not help in efficient use of CO2 gas. If the gun is fed with a constant supply of gas, there should be no problem. 

2. Sometimes when it starts icing up badly, my cycling stops. I think that happens on my gun because I have this funny feeling that when it gets pretty cold, it makes the oil within the vital parts "congeal" or at least get a bit more viscous. 
 

The main reason why the pins are getting bent is because the balls in the clip are jamming up at the bottom of the chain drive. Due to the internal geometry of the clip, balls can and do get traction against the sides of the clip.  This is not good. When there is excessive friction between the balls and the sides of the clip, they can literally position themselves in such a way that the chain drive will not move, and the bolt will ram into the "misindexed" chain. What you can do to remedy this is to keep not only the inside surfaces of the clip well lubricated (not too much though) and the chain lubed as well. I have been using a firearm oil right now which is doing the trick.  WD40 or any of the other super lubes like "Duralube," "OneLube," or "Prolong" area also good alternatives. If the pins of your chain are getting bent, you can gently bend them back so that they are perpendicular to the chain that they are welded to.

1. The first suggestion is to lube up the gun. There are several places that you can lube the sucker. First, add at least 10 drops of the oil, that came with the gun, into the rear ASA and then gas up the system and shoot a stream of rounds. This will oil all the internal parts of the gun. You can also add some oil directly into the regulator. Turn the gun so that the handle is pointed toward the sky. At the back of the gun, near the ASA, there is a stainless screw. Now pay attention and observe the little scored mark on the screw. It should be facing toward the barrel end of the gun (this is the 12 o’clock position. Also take a look and how far down the screw is in (this becomes important when you have to rescrew the screw back on. Use an appropriate allen wrench and unscrew the screw. Just keep track at the amount of revolutions it takes to unscrew it (It takes me 4 complete turns to back the screw out). Take the screw out. There will also be a spring inside the crevice which you can take out as well. You will now see a stainless steel rod pointing up. With a needle nose pliers, grip the rod and pull it out. On the rod, which by the way kind of reminds me of a top, you will see a black o-ring. Lube the o-ring with the supplied oil and also drip a couple of drops into the cavity of the gun. Reassemble the parts, in reverse, and remember to position the stainless screw at the 12 o’clock position and at the right depth. If this does not work, go to #2 below. 

2. "I just worked on mine last night to make sure it was lubed enough for a big game I have today. It was working alright as is, I just wanted to make sure. In doing so, it reminded me of just how sensitive that top hollowed out round screw is....it *HAS* to be put back in exactly the same place as you took it out.  If you're panicking at this moment because you don't remember dont worry, its not too hard to find that "sweet spot". When you take out that screw, you have a spring, then the poppet valve (looks like a toy top) then a brass hollowed out round screw-nut-whatever you call it, then a small pin with a tiny white oring on it. If youve lubed up your poppet valve before and this is not working, the next step is to remove that brass screw (CAREFULLY), then take out the pin carefully, its easy to lose. Check out the white oring and make sure there is no debris on it.  Then give it a drop of the supplied gun oil, put it back in...I can't remember which way, since its been a while since I've done it SO MAKE SURE YOU KNOW BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OUT. Then put the brass screw back in...add about 3-4 drops of gun lube down there. Make sure there is no debris on your poppet valve, just wipe it off and put a drop of oil to lube up the black o-ring on it. DO *NOT* USE Q-TIPS ON ANY OF THESE PARTS...you'll get little white "fuzzies" in the inside and it will stall your gun. Next, place your poppet valve back in and then (this is what worked for me when I forgot where the last screw was supposed to stop) place the last hollowed-screw-nut-thing-a-ma-jig as flush and parallel to the regulator bottom surface of the gun as possible before you start threading it in by hand first. Also, what I do is use that little nick on that screw and line it up with the tiny little line that is grooved on the bottom of the gun surface before threading it in. Then, it should be generally around 3-5 turns (can't remember exactly) and the nick on the screw should be between the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock position. Mine works fine at about "2:30...between 2 & 3". When this is all the way screwed in...the screw surface should not be buried below the surface of the gun and should not be sticking out. If you turn the gun upside down and look at the back of the gun at the regulator area, you will see (before you thread the last screw in) that the back wall of the depression is slightly higher than the front "wall". The last screw should be just below the back wall and slightly higher than the front wall."   Contributed by Rocky Grismore

3. If all of that fails, disassemble the gun. Take out the bolt and the rear hammer. The hammer is a piece that has a guide tube that fits inside of the bolt. Now take a look at the hammer and shake the thing up and down. A little piece of metal will move in and out of it. This piece is called the striker. The striker is critical in the cycling of the gun. After you fire the gun, the striker (if well lubed) will hit the rocker switch to complete the cycling process. It is very critical that the striker is able to move with ease in the hammer assembly. Do not use DuraLube or One Lube or any of those "super lubricants" on the striker. Tagline as well as I (unfortunately) have found out that these particular oils become thicker when the gun sits for longer periods of time. When that happens, the striker is unable to freely move and cycle the gun. Tagline recommends using WD40. I didn’t have any around the house so I lubed it up with some Remington firearm’s oil (called Rem Oil) which has Teflon. So far the gun has no problems with that. You can also use the oil that came with the gun. 

As extra insurance of a well working gun, lube up the hammer assembly the night before you play.  That way, you will not get frustrated if the gun stalls a lot and causes you to hit the reset switch often.
 

1. Remember that you need to have an ample supply of rounds in the clip for the gun to shoot continuous rounds. A gentle rocking motion allows the balls in the front loader to fill up the clip. 

2.Sometimes the balls position themselves in awkward positions in the clip. This prevents them from falling into the chain drive the way they are supposed to.What I had done was to keep the internal sides of the clip assembly, as well as the entire chain, well lubricated with a light coat of oil. I am currently using the Rem Oil on this as well. Remember to remove the excess oil after application and to turn the indexing switch on the right side of the clip to make sure that the chain drive is moving smoothly. 

3. Unscrew the guide plate on the right hand side of the gun. There should be a stainless steel guide attached to the black guide plate. If you do not know what it should look like, then watch the video that came with your gun. On one occasion, my stainless steel guide had broken and I was shooting some rounds and then there were the blank shots. It drove me crazy, I didn’t know what was going wrong. After removal of the guide plate, I noticed that it was broken. Without the guide plate, the gun is unable to accurately grip the chain in the clip and advance another ball into the breech. 

4.  If you are using the new Viewloader clip mod make sure that you have your view loader turned on if it is motorized or shaken if it is the non-motorized version.
 

Hate to burst your bubble dude, but it certainly is. A clip which is not in "time" will result in the bolt ramming into the pins of the clip and bending them. If this happens, you may experience a "crash" in the clip. You can test the clip every now and then by verifying that the chain is properly in its indent positions. A properly timed chain should not have any of the pins sticking up at the top of the chain drive's path. Or you can also try Chris Jarvis' idea of marking the clip so that you can see if the clip is in time just by visual inspection. Observe that the picture to the left has red marks placed on the clip which locates the positions of where the chain is properly timed. The green circle represents a knob which replaces the standard pin turning device. The knob will prevent an on coming ball from turning the crank and knocking out the pin.

1.  The TS1 is based upon a Nelson System.  So what that means is that you can replace the stock hammer spring with a standard Nelson spring.  I have experienced some velocity fluctuations so I installed a new spring.  The color I used was the yellow Nelson spring.  Fluctuations in my case ceased to exist after its installation.  I can only speculate that the factory stock spring, when experiencing quick full auto usage over an extended period of time can loose its memory, thus creating velocity fluctuations from shot to shot.  Spring kits cost about $10 at your local paintball shop.

1.  Take apart the gun and look at the trigger.  Is it dirty?  If it is, this can cause the gun to malfunction.  I play in a sandy environment, and if it gets really dirty in the trigger, it can mess up my gun.  Use some compressed air to blow out the trigger assembly.  After you have cleaned it, give it a litle oil and then reassemble the gun.  If this doesn't help, then take the trigger off the gun.  To do this, locate the little stainless steel pin that goes through the gun's frame and the trigger.  You can use a little nail and tap the pin out. Look at the trigger and make sure that the vertical looking spring at the end is still connected to the trigger and is not "smushed." If it is "smushed" you can easily install a new one.  What I did with my gun was to use a piece of an auto cocker forward (horizontal) trigger spring and epoxy it to the trigger.  I made the spring a little longer than the stock spring to give the trigger a quicker return rate.

1. Bottomlines to fit the gun’s eurogrip frame. You can order one through Skan Line.

2. 45 Grips - With the 45 grip, you can bolt on what ever you like to it. I think it is much more versatile than the eurogrip. 

3. Barrels from B.O.A., J&J, and Palmer's Pursuit Shops- adds that nice touch to the gun in performance and looks. 

4. View loader adapter from ATS.  This sucker rocks!  With this little adaptor, you can attach your standard view loader onto the clip. For just $20 you can spray to your heart's content without having to shake the gun to feed rounds from the foregrip to the clip.  Use an agitated loader if you want the ultimate in performance.