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John Wayne Dense

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The following shirt is an excellent example of the John Wayne Dense pattern. The size, US-XL is uncommon and can commands high prices on the open market. This particular shirt had the sides taken in by a professional tailor, which was more than likely done overseas during the war.  Also note that the left breast pocket pattern (right side as we're looking at it) is vertical instead of horizontal.

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The back provides nice detail of the over-all pattern.

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The stamp close up. It almost looks like the US- was stamped first, and then the XL was stamped later as shown by the misalignment.

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This shirt has had a fairly common alteration done in which the sleeves were shortened. The tailor that made the alteration took the time to remove the small cigarette pocket on the left sleeve, then move it up toward the shoulder.  It's apparent because the thread color is identical to the thread in the sleeve hem. Again, the alteration was probably done overseas. This is the only example that I've owned were this was the case. Typically, if the sleeves were shortened and the small pocket was in the way, it was removed.

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This shirt has some of the best colors in my opinion. The back provides a great example.

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Inside the collar you'll note the US-L stamp. The original owner also stenciled his name. I have no idea what the 116 signifies. Possibly a laundry number? Any ideas?

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This was my first example of a John Wayne Dense. I found this in a second hand store in Santa Monica in 1982 and paid $14.95 for it. Again, the sleeves have been shortened but the small pocket was left on. It's hard to tell by the photos, but these sleeves are actually a bit longer the other short sleeve shirt above. The small pocket was not in the way and therefor left intact. 

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The material from the sleeves was reused to widen the shirt. If you look closely, you'll see the pattern change on the right in the photo. I wore this shirt for many years and washed it as needed. The fade has a nice white background... 

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A nice close up of the patch.... Hand sewn on the pocket with white cotton thread. I suspect the patch was added later as it's very clean and not abused. I don't know when reproductions started hitting the market but I doubt they were around in the early 1980's. So, I assume the patch is authentic. Is there an expert out there that can tell for sure?

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Again, here is the stamp in the neck area marked US-M. You'll have to excuse my camera cord hanging in the lower part of the photo!

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This shirt is as mint as the come. I bought it through an on-line auction in 1998 and paid a heafty price at the time. However, it is truly a MINT garment. It was in storage for many years and retains the stale smell of an old footlocker or duffle bag.

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The back side shows the vivid color of the unwashed fabric. The buttons and seams still have the extra thread hanging  ("Irish Penents" as we call them in the Marine Corps) where the sewing machine cut them off. The thread on the buttons looks like Nylon.

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Inside is the gauze tag with the Okinawa maker. It's hard to see from this photo but it is dated 1966. Because of the condition and rarity of it, it's one of the corner stones of my collection, and one of my favorites.

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A close up of the double stamped size in the neck.

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This pair of pants was modified in the classic 1960's fashion... The legs have been tapered to give the "stove-pipe" look. They are marked US-L.

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